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Looks like QA1 has stuff for back to ‘61. Maybe they could help? Don’t know how different those are. Video: Meet QA1’s Project Corkscrew, A 1969 Dodge D100 - Mopar Connection Magazine | A comprehensive daily resource for Mopar enthusiast news, features and the latest Mopar tech

Read this installation article and you’ll have a better idea: Gallery: Borgeson Gets This '69 Super Bee Back On The Straight And Narrow - Mopar Connection Magazine | A comprehensive daily resource for Mopar enthusiast news, features and the latest Mopar tech

RMS does provide some guidance on their website. See the links here: Reilly Motorsports’ Course On Wheel Clearance - Mopar Connection Magazine | A comprehensive daily resource for Mopar enthusiast news, features and the latest Mopar tech Wheel and Tire Information

There you have it. Some Saginaw pump information here: Gallery: Borgeson Gets This '69 Super Bee Back On The Straight And Narrow - Mopar Connection Magazine | A comprehensive daily resource for Mopar enthusiast news, features and the latest Mopar tech

I'm not sure how hard it is to retrofit the Prius EPS, but I know there are a few ready-made EPS kits out there. They aren't cheap by any means, but seem to offer an engineered solution. Installation reading material: Silver Sport Transmissions...

Search around here. There are a few threads on the subject with pictures and good arguments on why/why not. In the end, it's going to be very difficult to find a rack that will fit in your A-body and still give you minimum bumpsteer. There is quite a bit of geometry involved.

Here you go.

B-body setup is $4,000. http://www.reillymotorsports.com/store/home.php?cat=269 I wouldn't let any old fab shop "make this stuff to fit a set of coilovers" though. There is a lot of math that goes into the geometry of these front ends that RMS makes.

Check this Mopar Muscle tech article out. http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/projectbuild/mopp_0612_classic_barracuda/photo_20.html

A buddy of mine has an unrestored '70 Duster 340 3 speed car that got them from the factory, front and back. Don't know if all of the 340 cars had them though.

Yep, Mopar leaf springs are different than Brand X springs. The part of the springs in front of the axle is shorter than the section of springs behind the axle. Brand X leaf springs had the rear axle in the center of them.

Just measure. SBP is 4 inch, BBP is 4.5 inch.

Here you go.

Street Lynx by Reilly Motor Sports. http://www.bigblockdart.com/index.php/topic,17352.0.html

Is there a reason you are running a panhard bar instead of a Watts link? I'm having thoughts of a 3 link in my Scamp, but was figuring on going with a Watts link.

Looks just like the XV piece, but $80 cheaper. Not sure how much good it is going to do as far as chassis stiffening though.

Lots of math involved in getting a homemade suspension setup right. Have you done all the number work?

Here's a thread with plenty of opinions on power/manual steering: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=33115

$1200 sounds like a lot for something you could do yourself in a weekend. It's a pretty simple procedure. Here's a thread with some pics I found over on bigblockdart.com: http://www.bigblockdart.com/index.php?PHPSESSID=581b8b412658c66d61b5a71b0a4989eb&topic=40319.0

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=24961 and http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/forumdisplay.php?f=48 (go ahead and introduce yourself)

Here's another pic I found.

Here are some I found on bigblockdart.com.

That sounds like a pretty good deal. Could I get a rain check on it for now? All my cars/car parts are 200 miles away, and I won't be getting around to the project for another month at least. And I still have to get the aluminum pieces turned, so that will take me a little while. I'll...

Only reason I have access to a lathe is because we have one here at school. I would like to have a narrowing jig because there are so many C-body 8.75's around here it's ridiculous. It would be nice to have all of those C-body rears turn in to A-body rears. Last question for you is where did...

Thanks crackedback. Do you have the dimensions for the 8.75 pieces? I have access to a lathe, although I'm not sure where I would get the aluminum to start out with.

Anybody else have info on making a narrowing jig?

Here's a helpful diagram for near zero bumpsteer.

Here's a build thread over on bigblockdart.com. http://www.bigblockdart.com/index.php/topic,17352.0.html

Here's a pic of the frame connector and torque box installed (found on bigblockdart.com).

I'll second that. I have under $20 in mine and they're just as good as any aftermarket ones. I just bought about 10 feet of square tubing and welded them in myself.