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1973 dart swinger new ignition switch install... want to install a remote starter button hidden some where. what color is the cranking power lead to the relay from the ignition switch coming out of the steering column?, is it the blue or the brown? my schematic i am using off the internet is...

I was havn trouble with chrysler 4 pin box. So i did the gm hei module conversion. 4 pin on heat sink. Grounded. Wired correctly to every post found. New blaster 2 coil. And still no spark to distributor. I verifed 4 pin. Positive accross and according to inyernet is good. Tried a second one...

1973 dart, had a fbo system on vehicle removed thinking it was my problem, now I know it wasn't, I just installed back to a stock over the counter resisted coil, and side resistor, states in wring diagrams online, 12v ignition and relay cranking 12v goes to one side, the others to the generic...

have a 1973 swinger 318 built up, see garage page... my fbo ignition system keeps frying ignition coils, and everything checks out. ive even went though mopars checks, and don form fbo's checks. no ballast resistor, direct 12volts... using his flamethrower coil, runs great for a while, then...

going to wire up new gm dr44 alternator, fits well, it is a 4 pin terminal alt. I know I will have to remove the factory mopar voltage regulator... does anyone have any idea wire wires form Delco goes to what on the mopar, I understand the bat +. and the ignition says the same. do I have to do...

I scored a 1999 Durango denso 136 amp alternator, can't find a v-belt pulley to work on it, I know it is 17mm inner, the dual groove I found wont work not shallow enough to fit the shaft for threads, it does fit my gm dr44 145 amp I have and may use it, but BIG, was looking to go with the...

i scored a used 136amp 1999 dodge Durango alternator... going to clean it up and install on y 1973 318 swinger... power master 75 or 95 amp isn't doing it. .... dual electric fans. etc.... I need to convert to a dual v-belt pulley... does anyone know what the replacement shaft size is for his...

hey all, my 1973 swinger is in need of upgrading my alternator. I have a 95 amp chrome power master, dual v pulley.... works, but not enough amps anymore, I have since redone the car an now uses dual electric fans, a/c, h4 headlamps, fob ignition, stereo, etc...... small block with factory a/c...

1973 dart swinger, I'm converting all to led bulbs, I know about the load resistors issue, found the turn signal flasher on rt side of dash, installed electronic /grounded unit in place of it. now where is the 4 way flasher located at? found the time delay relay.... but no 4 way flasher.... any...

where have you guys installed this where the pull handle comes out the rear? 1973 dart swinger.. master battery is on left side, slave battery on right. I all ready had one in a box in let rear. adding remote rod set up. was getting creative with a bell crank that has a rod in out between left...

question to anyone who has done this.... got the kit from FBO... his ignition box, no ballast resistor, petronix coil, spoke to don, stated to use the 18 degree slot, base at 16 and 30 total IDLE WITH FULL MANIFOLD VACUUM. NOW ADJUSTED VACUM POD TO @5 inch lbs of pull.... stated to have...

just got off the phone with don from fbo.... he knows his stuff!! going with his set up for the car, I ' m taking the orange box out, and c/d coil I have and curving the distributor like he suggested and a few other things... a real stand up guy over the phone!! will post when parts arrive and...

I have a blaster 3 coil with factory 4 pin ballast resistor with an orange m/p ignition module and factory mopar electric distributor 1973 ( curved) .... would like to have full voltage advantages with a c/d coil.... can this be safely wired in eliminating the resistor? or with out upgrading...

the 70 and later 2 in style voltage regulator.... the ignition field center, the green wire field negative outer, but the casing of the regulator is supposed to be grounded, now, is the field negative green wire terminal on regulator supposed to have continuity to the regulator case itself with...

have a 73 swinger small block with a/c and p/s, p/b.... my power master 90 amp will not cut it anymore, since car redo... have added dual electric fans, trunk mounted battery, nitrous, h4 head lamps, and msd, as welll as fog/driving lamps and a stereo... currently still running the dual belt...

does the orange box have a factory timing retard for engine cranking/staring only at all? or have any of you installed come components with the box to control this? my msd 6tn box was in the car will not work unless hooked up like was in the race car. or should I look into another but 6al unit...

running headman headers, and the tube from left rear tube rubbing wires that run near # 5, and #7..... wires... too close running over the headers, are any of you guys running a lower 45 or 90 degree angle at the plug underneath? mine run way too close and burned though, the fire sleeves...

i have converted to msd 6-tn and muti step retard unit on the car, but i left the factory icm box just upgraded to mopar orange, and a few mins, if msd craps, can drive home, now, i still have the 4 pin in the car, does it have to changed to a 2 pin unit? or can i just leave what i have, like...

looking to curve the distributor to around 2200-2600 rpms for the street, built 318 302 heads, 9.5:1 compression, a-904, 3:55 gears....mp340 camshaft....air gap intake, headers, rtc. now, i have it apart. has two spring the light one factory and the loop spring heavy one. when orange ecu box...

have any of you used the pro comp dizzy offered in your small block? reliabilty? wanting to go to an hei set up. and i have a msd 6al and msd 3 step retard im going to wire in. and does it respond to this? or just go with stock dizzy with an advanced curve sprins init? going in built 318 with...