100 shot of nitrous on 360 magnum engine

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With only 100 shot you could just add a second pickup to your existing tank and run the fuel for the nitrous side from there. I strongly recommend a fuel pump dedicated to the nitrous supply. Once you start moving up in power (250+) I’d recommend a small fuel cell with race gas in it to supply the nitrous side.
 
Howard1784 said:
I almost have your exact same set up. My guy assured and reassured me the 100 kit was absolutely nothing to worry about and there was no need for extra fuel pump, constant timing adjustments etc etc. The motor is not broken in so I havent used it.
That said, I'd say if you car is that consistent you have a hard to beat car
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Not saying “your guy” is wrong but building in a margin of saftey is never a bad idea. Most people don’t use a fuel pump large enough to supppy just their engine, let alone an additional fuel supply for nitrous.
 
I'm a little curious as to what is meant by "constant timing adjustments."

Any modification that enhances the atmosphere going into an engine is likely to require timing adjustments, doesn't make it constant...you might have to make a few adjustments to dial it in, but once it's good and I don't mean running on a ragged edge good, i mean solid, repeatable, and safe-it's good until/unless you change something else in the combo, or am I missing the boat?
 
txstang84 said:
I'm a little curious as to what is meant by "constant timing adjustments."

Any modification that enhances the atmosphere going into an engine is likely to require timing adjustments, doesn't make it constant...you might have to make a few adjustments to dial it in, but once it's good and I don't mean running on a ragged edge good, i mean solid, repeatable, and safe-it's good until/unless you change something else in the combo, or am I missing the boat?
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Yea that got me wondering also. You can just grab the distributor and twist 4-6 degrees out of it when you’re going to hit the button but the engine will run like a turd when you’re staging or running around the pits. I really like using the technology we have available to us. A nitrous controller is relatively cheap and makes a good system complete.
 
PG Duster said:
View attachment 1715898019

I have a fresh .030 over engine too. And it’s broken in, I’m looking at how to set up the nitrous fuel system with the existing carb fuel system. Any pictures on your set up, I want to make it clean with the nitrous and fuel solenoids.

View attachment 1715898001

View attachment 1715898002
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20180915_145740.jpg
 
TT5.9mag said:
Yea that got me wondering also. You can just grab the distributor and twist 4-6 degrees out of it when you’re going to hit the button but the engine will run like a turd when you’re staging or running around the pits. I really like using the technology we have available to us. A nitrous controller is relatively cheap and makes a good system complete.
Click to expand...


100%-modern electronics when properly configured enable the safety margin to be much wider.
 
TT5.9mag said:
Yea that got me wondering also. You can just grab the distributor and twist 4-6 degrees out of it when you’re going to hit the button but the engine will run like a turd when you’re staging or running around the pits. I really like using the technology we have available to us. A nitrous controller is relatively cheap and makes a good system complete.
Click to expand...

I will have to look into a nitrous controller, is that the same as what they call a grid? Thank you
 
PG Duster said:
I will have to look into a nitrous controller, is that the same as what they call a grid? Thank you
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Nitrous control and ignition timing can be handled a number of different ways. The link above shows a progressive controller that ramps in the nitrous based on time. A “grid” is commonly an MSD ignition controller and data logger used to program the ignition system with a laptop. Neither of which are necessary at the basic level but are nice for tuning. What I was referring to is some kind of programmable ignition system that pulls timing when the nitrous is activated.

Go In-Depth Inside MSD's High-Tech Power Grid Ignition System
This is an MSD power grid.
 
TT5.9mag said:
Nitrous control and ignition timing can be handled a number of different ways. The link above shows a progressive controller that ramps in the nitrous based on time. A “grid” is commonly an MSD ignition controller and data logger used to program the ignition system with a laptop. Neither of which are necessary at the basic level but are nice for tuning. What I was referring to is some kind of programmable ignition system that pulls timing when the nitrous is activated.

Go In-Depth Inside MSD's High-Tech Power Grid Ignition System
This is an MSD power grid.
Click to expand...


Ok, thank you
 
PG Duster said:
I


I noticed in your picture that you have a line lock, and nitrous, can you send me a picture of where you put the switches to control each one. I have a T -handle to use as trigger switch for nitrous or or Line lock.
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PG Duster said:
I


I noticed in your picture that you have a line lock, and nitrous, can you send me a picture of where you put the switches to control each one. I have a T -handle to use as trigger switch for nitrous or or Line lock.
Click to expand...

20220329_175359.jpg
 
TT5.9mag said:
Not saying “your guy” is wrong but building in a margin of saftey is never a bad idea. Most people don’t use a fuel pump large enough to supppy just their engine, let alone an additional fuel supply for nitrous.
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FWIW, my guy, now retired, ran a speed shop for over 20 years and ran an outlaw class with his blown Chevy. Knowing many police, including myself, have taken their hot rods there. He would never steer me wrong and he was the only person I EVER trusted to work on my car. No need for all the NOS controllers, always retarding the timing 2 degrees, no need for the purge valve either, blah blah. Others can do what they want
 
TT5.9mag said:
With only 100 shot you could just add a second pickup to your existing tank and run the fuel for the nitrous side from there. I strongly recommend a fuel pump dedicated to the nitrous supply. Once you start moving up in power (250+) I’d recommend a small fuel cell with race gas in it to supply the nitrous side.
Click to expand...
This ^^^^^ is how you don't blow chit up using nitrous.
 
Howard1784 said:
FWIW, my guy, now retired, ran a speed shop for over 20 years and ran an outlaw class with his blown Chevy. Knowing many police, including myself, have taken their hot rods there. He would never steer me wrong and he was the only person I EVER trusted to work on my car. No need for all the NOS controllers, always retarding the timing 2 degrees, no need for the purge valve either, blah blah. Others can do what they want
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Great. Like I said he’s not wrong. It can be done. It just isn’t how I do things.
 
JMO, get an AFR meter.

You're giving up a bunch with a vacuum carb as well. That's another soapbox.

Pig Rich on a nitrous engine is WORSE than lean. It will run and beat itself to death. Lean it will barf on itself. A little rich is OK. Pig rich which most of the old jetting suggestions from the manufacturers printed were horrible. Basic deal in general, if the fuel jet is larger than the n2o jet, it's a pig rich tune up.

Find the best MPH for you car on carb only. Note the AFR. Tune the juice to the same AFR. Pretty simple approach.

How you decide to plumb it is up to you. Know plenty of guys running 150 shots with a mechanical pump. Separate regulators for carb and juice. You can tune the juice a little by increasing/reducing fuel pressure if you don't have a larger selection of jets. Want leaner, turn pressure down ever so slightly. Don't make 1/2 pound changes, make them small.

Juice is addicting... signed a N2O junky from the 1980's when we were just learning. Ask me how I know about pig rich... Burning plug electrodes, just feed more fuel pressure... wrong...
plenty of stuff that when torn apart looked like garbage, but still ran! I still love the stuff!
 
crackedback said:
JMO, get an AFR meter.

You're giving up a bunch with a vacuum carb as well. That's another soapbox.

Pig Rich on a nitrous engine is WORSE than lean. It will run and beat itself to death. Lean it will barf on itself. A little rich is OK. Pig rich which most of the old jetting suggestions from the manufacturers printed were horrible. Basic deal in general, if the fuel jet is larger than the n2o jet, it's a pig rich tune up.

Find the best MPH for you car on carb only. Note the AFR. Tune the juice to the same AFR. Pretty simple approach.

How you decide to plumb it is up to you. Know plenty of guys running 150 shots with a mechanical pump. Separate regulators for carb and juice. You can tune the juice a little by increasing/reducing fuel pressure if you don't have a larger selection of jets. Want leaner, turn pressure down ever so slightly. Don't make 1/2 pound changes, make them small.

Juice is addicting... signed a N2O junky from the 1980's when we were just learning. Ask me how I know about pig rich... Burning plug electrodes, just feed more fuel pressure... wrong...
plenty of stuff that when torn apart looked like garbage, but still ran! I still love the stuff!
Click to expand...
AFR meter AND EGT
 
Exhaust gas temperature. You don’t need to monitor EGTs on a street car with 100 shot.
 
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