Others have mentioned, make darn sure the fuel supply is sufficient. Better to have too much supply and dial it back, than not enough.
100 shot of nitrous on 360 magnum engine
- Thread starter PG Duster
- Start date
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Jeremiah (jd)
Well-Known Member
I would strongly suggest that you wire in a NOS mini progressive (about $200), if anything for the RPM window switch capability. Add a WOT switch between the controller and the activation button for the kit and you will be good to go.
I also think a bottle heater is a great idea. I sell a Milwaukee M18 battery mount that can be used with a pressure switch to automatically regulate the bottle temp without draining the battery. On at 925psi and off at 975, takes about 10-15 minutes to heat up a bottle with a xc6.0 M18 battery. It has made life much easier.
Down the road you can add an extra gauge port and a sensor to read bottle pressure from the handheld display of the mini progressive.
I was making hits on a 175hp shot Saturday night....great way to take the edge off after a long week.
Lastly, make sure you have a good straight through or chambered muffler. I accidentally killed the muffs on my GTS when I forgot to open the cutouts before a run.
View attachment 1715898528
I also think a bottle heater is a great idea. I sell a Milwaukee M18 battery mount that can be used with a pressure switch to automatically regulate the bottle temp without draining the battery. On at 925psi and off at 975, takes about 10-15 minutes to heat up a bottle with a xc6.0 M18 battery. It has made life much easier.
Down the road you can add an extra gauge port and a sensor to read bottle pressure from the handheld display of the mini progressive.
I was making hits on a 175hp shot Saturday night....great way to take the edge off after a long week.
Lastly, make sure you have a good straight through or chambered muffler. I accidentally killed the muffs on my GTS when I forgot to open the cutouts before a run.
View attachment 1715898528
PG Duster
Well-Known Member
Howard1784
Well-Known Member
I think the OP would change his mind after most everyone insists he installs: air fuel meter, EGT meter, progressive nos controller, separate fuel pump, seperate gas tank, timing controller, specially wired battery bottle warmer and everything else!!!!!!! Freaking A people. I bet if he calls holleys tech line they will advise that you do not need all that crap for a FREAKING ENTRY LEVEL Powershot system!
Jeremiah (jd)
Well-Known Member
I suggested what I did for safety and ease of use. If you don't think you need a window and WOT switch on a nitrous car you are an idiot or don't have much experience with nitrous.
And if you do....show your cards or stfu
1) Progressive supplies safety measures above.
2) AFR monitor is a good thing, refer to my last statement before the list.
3) A bottle warmer is necessary to keep the tune up in check. If you don't understand this refer to the last statement before the list.
4) A stable fuel supply is also necessary to keep the tune up in check. Refer to the last statement before the list LOL.
Some of you armchair quarterbacks are really funny with your internet experience.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
Jeremiah (jd)
Well-Known Member
5. Having a way to dial back the timing from the cockpit is very helpful. With a 175hp nitrous tune up say we use 25-27 total timing advance. If you had 16 initial and 36 total N/A you now have about 6 deg initial rolling into the burnout box. Not a good recipe for success because you are goung to load up the plugs until the kit is turned on. Much more potential to stall the car, etc. in the box or staging.
PG Duster
Well-Known Member
Thank you guys, with all the input, I have a good idea what’s needed.
Bakerlite
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A lot of people are making some good points here for safety and tuning etc..
Having said that, when I installed my first kit back in the 80's , all I bought was the adjustable kit, a Holley blue, some wire, a micro switch for the carb, an arming switch, points switch and relay and a twin point dizzy conversion plate so I could switch between one set of points to the other to retard the timing. Plus a spare pair of underpants.
PG Duster
Well-Known Member
lol, I bought a nitrous express system that’s adjustable from 100 to 250 shot. I’ve used nitrous before on a 355 Camaro with cast pistons, the only problem I had was stage in the car I accidentally touch the button and it backfired and blew a head gasket, so I replaced it. It ran good for a very long time with only that problem. I haven’t been with Mopar for a while and back then I ran everything on the engine, so I wanted to get information as to how to approach it on a Mopar small block. Because I can do what I did before, like you did bear minimum. I used to launch on the nitrous and it it lowered my et a full second of the car and added 12 miles an hour to it . I still haven’t put it on the car yet, still deciding what accessories I’m going add with it. On my Camaro I used to have all I did was retard the timing 4° when I use the nitrous. The car used to run 11.90s with a very mild cam and 3:42 gears. my 360 Duster has cast pistons and low compression also with 3:91 gears in it. Thank for your input, Sometime the bear minimum gets the job done, at least on 100 shot.
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PG Duster
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Your right, I changed the timing from 10° to 16° initial and the total from 29 to 36 and it really woke the car up, It launches harder pull the gears with more power, can’t wait to go back to the dragstrip, like you said there’s more in this combination than 12.80s. I’ll do that once I get past having Covid.
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Bakerlite
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Nice. The kit I had was adjustable from 100 to 250 as well. it was one of the first kits made in Australia.
The guy who made them used to work for a Nitrous company in the US. I think it was called Magnum or Magnum Force Nitrous.
Anyway, getting a nitrous kit, was like getting a cool T shirt, when people saw it they wanted their own.. lots of my friends ran gas on the street.
The guy who made them used to work for a Nitrous company in the US. I think it was called Magnum or Magnum Force Nitrous.
Anyway, getting a nitrous kit, was like getting a cool T shirt, when people saw it they wanted their own.. lots of my friends ran gas on the street.
Had lots of fun in the 80's with a pin vise and 61-80 bits drilling out spray bars in the low HP kits that weren't adjustable!
I remember BB Chevies with the edelbrock canted carb base victor 2R and Torker were a total ***** because some of the holes sprayed right down 4 runners and the other 4 weren't as well lined up, as in not at all. Distribution issues galore. Ended up putting a 2" spacer, then the plate on top. Like a tunnel ram height intake. LOL
This PIA...
1,3,6&8 run like a ****!!!
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txstang84
Well-Known Member
It's only (solicited) advice offered from people running nitrous on their vehicles...he's free to ignore or disregard based on his application...
You cant have enough insurance when using nitrous !!!
txstang84
Well-Known Member
To be perfectly fair, if I were installing ONLY a 100 shot on my own vehicle, I probably would forego some of the items brought up in this thread (EGT probes, separate complete dedicated fuel system, progressive controller). But, having experienced the difference between N/A vs boosted/sprayed, I'm pretty sure eventually, I'd wanna put in bigger pills and not running any safeties/upgrades with increased amounts of nitrous-just like with boost-is asking for a failure. So the other suggestions, like AFR monitoring equipment, timing management, proper tuning, dropping a heat range or two, increased fuel delivery...those are all requirements for a successful implementation of power adders based on what experience I do have.
Yes, I know...people (trailblazers) did it decades ago, and they laid the path for all of us to follow and execute, but glossing over or ignoring the damages they experienced in search of lower ETs as just part of the journey really disregards the fact that most of us don't have disposable mountains of cash if a set of rings checks out or all the exhaust seats get fried from A/F going out for a couple seconds...I'd much rather spend a few hundred on the front side for some extra gear to keep processes in check rather than a couple thousand and/or the downtime required to fix all the breaks after I put the spurs to it...YMMV
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
Wise and well spoken.
Whatsup1962
Well-Known Member
But as we all know once the 100 shot is on it wont be long until you want more....then...more....you will become a nitrous junkie...lol
Good stuff here Induction Solutions
Really like the boogie box setup...it does it all Boogie Box NPC-1006 Progressive Nitrous Controller - Induction Solutions
txstang84
Well-Known Member
...and that's why I phrased it the way I did...
Nitrous can turn into a slippery slope if your personality doesn't contain a little reasonable restraint. Anyone who's spent several weekends at the drag strip talking to people and cultivating some friendships will eventually find that one guy who keeps ramping up his combo until it pops...sometimes the failure is dramatic, sometimes it's just a sudden smokescreen where it's just blowing through the rings...
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
The only time anyone ever stops turning up the boost or putting bigger pills in it, is when a problem happens. I’ve tuned lots of turbo stuff and built a few nitrous combinations and the vast majority once they get a taste, just want more. Myself included.
Yup, I started at 150, then 175/200/225 than the top at 250. The old low compression 440 made 100 runs with the 250 shot. Used it as soon as I shifted to second gear. Kim
33IMP
Well-Known Member
I have not read the whole three pages of this thread, so I don't know if it's been mentioned, but....
Episode 13 of engine masters (available on you tube) showed a couple big nitrous shots on a stock bottom end cast piston 305 Chevy. A 250 shot got it to 600+hp. A 300 shot blew it up (which was what they wanted). However, late lamented Mopar nitrous guru Monte Smith said It shouldn't have blown up, and it WOULDN'T have, if they had just pulled enough timing out of it.
I found that insight very telling.
I'm sure this thread has a bunch of good advice. I'm gonna read it now, cause I have a edelbrock rpm system to try..... some day.
Episode 13 of engine masters (available on you tube) showed a couple big nitrous shots on a stock bottom end cast piston 305 Chevy. A 250 shot got it to 600+hp. A 300 shot blew it up (which was what they wanted). However, late lamented Mopar nitrous guru Monte Smith said It shouldn't have blown up, and it WOULDN'T have, if they had just pulled enough timing out of it.
I found that insight very telling.
I'm sure this thread has a bunch of good advice. I'm gonna read it now, cause I have a edelbrock rpm system to try..... some day.
33IMP
Well-Known Member
That's how I'm gonna use it. My old crate won't hook up an extra 150 or 200 hp at the starting line.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
Some of the new electronics are great, you might not hook with 200 shot at the hit but with a progressive controller you could hit it with 25% at the line and ramp it in based on traction. The sky is the limit nowadays.
Yes, it’s a lot easier nowadays. Kim
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