110 Octane and Timing

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69Chrgr

Charger/Cuda
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O.K., if I run 110 octane, what timing do you guys suggest? Can I bump it up, and would it even matter w/running 110 vs. 92? Here is my combination:

360 Magnum block bored .030 over, decked, honed w/plates
Eagle 4.00 crank
Eagle I-beam rods
Protru forged pistons
chrome moly rings
block zero decked
Milodon Windage tray
Milodon 8 quart pan
ATI Balancer
ARP main and head bolts
Eddy Magnum RPM heads out of the box, no porting
Hughes custom hyd. roller cam .565 exh., .555 int., 242 and 246 @.050 Hughes matching valve springs
crane 1.6 roller rockers
MSD Ready To Run Ignition
Mopar M1 Single Plane
Quick Fuel 750 D.P. Q Series
Black Magic Electric Fan
998 w/2.74 low
Dynamic 3700 stall
4.11 w/Powertraxx
28 inch M/T ET Streets
Compression 10.5-11.0 to 1? Pistons came out of bore by about .005, compensated w/cometic head gasket, can't remember thickness.

Total timing @34 and intial 22 at this time, just curious as to what you guys suggest.

Again, Thanks so much for everyones help as always.
 
good sounding combo, have you ran it yet or know what the hp is, thinking of going with a hydralic hughes cam myself are you happy with it?
 
good sounding combo, have you ran it yet or know what the hp is, thinking of going with a hydralic hughes cam myself are you happy with it?

Haven't ran it yet on the track, however it ate the 235/60 BF Drag radials for lunch. Like driving on ice. So, I bought 275/60 M/T E.T.'s, haven't mounted yet, w/4.11 and Powertrax installed today. Can't wait to see what happens if and when it hooks. I would say right now the cam is awesome, unbelievable throttle response. I'm just trying to figure out if the 110 will benefit w/additional timing and see if anyone else runs it. May be a waste of money, I don't know. Hughes was great though when ordering my cam.
 
I think running that at the strip is a great and safe way to tune. Unless you have an LM1 your kinda hit and miss with air/fuel ratio. You could go to the track and start playing with the timing like...start out low(32) then keep going up by two degrees until you lose mph then back it down. With the higher octane it gives you room to play without the worry of detonation. Same goes with jets and air bleeds.

When you go back to street driving and 92 octane you can just pull some timing out of it but just remember where it was that made the most power. Once you get the right combo on cam pump, squirter size, jets and airbleeds at the track you can mess with the idle mixture screws and PV to clean up the idle some for the street.
 
Charger,i like to mix the 110 with 93 at the track i've never touch the timing and the car runs great,how's that center section?? Randys did;nt have any 4.30's in stock so Mancini built me a unit ,hoping to have it this upcoming week let me know what that bad boy runs...
 
Charger,i like to mix the 110 with 93 at the track i've never touch the timing and the car runs great,how's that center section?? Randys did;nt have any 4.30's in stock so Mancini built me a unit ,hoping to have it this upcoming week let me know what that bad boy runs...

Hey 340. Sounds like a great idea. I'll do just that. Got the centersection in yesterday, working on installing green bearings on axles now. I wish I'd have got 4.30 myself as I've gone from a 26 in to 28 in M/T. Let me know what you run after your 4.30's. Calling Mancini's tomorrow to order shims for rear end. Installing Line Loc later this week. There is a certain 87 Firechicken I'm huntin' for in a few weeks at a local 1/8 mile track.
 
110 wont matter much,cheaper going 50 50 on 93 octane and 110 mix cheaperIf you run a small block make sure total advance is fully in by 2000 at the track,35 degrees ,36 work with 110 im sure,if ya run vacuum advance set total timing at 35 degrees ,full advance in by 2000,lock down dist.recheck,rehook carb port line ,recheck timing, you should now have 52 to 53 degrees for a small block, this is total with spark advance added.If you dont have 53 insert the proper hexhead carefully into vacuum pot and for every half turn the spark advance will change 2 degrees ,either way whichever way your turning it. you dont need to rev the car again to find where total is actually coming in at as youve already set total 35 degrees by 2000rpm just fiddle a lil turning it a tad each way and reckecking timing, which at this point is just spark advance timing, get it to the 53 degrees and you have now increased your spark advance by 65% ,this should be good for a few 10ths as the car will rev up much quicker, ,dont worry about the spark advance as it actually retards the timing for starting the car and ive run 14 to 1 compression engines this way only my total comes in at idle .heh 50 50 mix way I go as too much octane can make you run slower.hope this helps you or anyone else, this also applies to the bigblocks only total is 38 degrees and no it wont be hard to turn over, Happy Easter
 
uhhh at the very top of my post you have to plug the vacuum line first.then set total timing, oops......
 
345, skip the hughes and go for the lunati 305 voodoo hyd. cam, .533 intake lift .552 exh, duration at .050 is 242 intake 252 exhaust. This cam revs like a 2 cycle as it has seriously aggressive lobes, this is the best hyd camshaft made to the best of my knowledge.the old .509 has met its demise......
 
Well, I don't have a vacuum advance on my Ready to Run MSD, as I've removed it as it got in the way. Right now, I have 22* initial, and 34* total. Just wondered if the 110 would help, and if I could go further in advance.
 
I had a 340 with eddy heads, crower solid 253-258 and 525-530 (i think). with 10.5 KB with BM 2500 727 and 3.91 and 245s in the back. I beat the hell out of it on the street and never got it to a track or dyno. I tried running a lot of different fuel mixes and tunning. 110 didn't seem to pull any harder or char the tire any longer. I did seem to idle smoother though.

Best thing about it though is the smell!!!
 
69 just set total at 35, forget initial altogether...why? cause in race and super hp street cars advance is full on at idle,yes even if your runung a 4500 converter same principles apply
 
Mopar1962,you got that right Lunati cams "rock"....

Nitrous340dart,yes the smell of 110 is awsume,but i think i might be sniffing too much of it ..lol...
 
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