65TerrorCuda
Well-Known Member
This is going to a convection toaster oven that additionally blows hot air out the back. Not real impressed
Old toasters didn't have this jet of hot air coming out the back of them. I want my black n decker back dammit.That's pretty hot. I'd be concerned.
I'm on it. Thank you!Ya, Id be checking that outlet.
I'm on it. Thank you!
What could possibly go wrong? Just giving it time to flush the dirt outta the outlet...Could be worse.
My Son had water running out of his outlet, onto the kitchen counter and then the floor of his apartment.
Took the building owner two weeks to get around to fixing it.
Water cooled outlet no thanks! That's awfulCould be worse.
My Son had water running out of his outlet, onto the kitchen counter and then the floor of his apartment.
Took the building owner two weeks to get around to fixing it.
Check the back of the device to see what it's rated at; toaster ovens are notoriously power-hungry.
The wire itself is around 120 but the plug is 160, making me suspect the outlet like you and bodyperson said. This hoobajoob heats the hell out of the wall even spaced awayMight be as simple as a loose connection on the back of the outlet. Might not. LOL Kitty's air fryer gets the plug "a little" warm, but only enough to notice. .....and it's a BIG ****.
Do you mean the toaster oven cord, or the actual wire inside the wall that feeds the outlet?The wire itself is around 120
1980 I think. All copper that I've found so far. My childhood home had aluminum wiring which didn't sit well with dad.House built in the 70's or 80's? Maybe aluminum wiring? The connections are known to work their way loose due to the difference in material between the receptical terminal and the wire.
Maybe the receptical is just getting sloppy where the appliance plugs in (resistance).
This outlet has the gfi buttons on it. I tried the toaster on another outlet and it only got to 90 degrees at the plug. The toaster cord was 120 before, I only just got into the outlet itself. I can see some discoloration where the toaster was plugged in, the bottom. All that other crap I thought was burnt insulation at first but is actual crap from roaches. UghIs the outlet always hot, or only hot when you're using the toaster oven? Is the circuit GFI-protected? There's too much resistance somewhere, you need to find out where before something bad happens. An EXTREMELY high number of house fires start from faulty electrical systems.
If it were me, I'd make sure the circuit is GFI-protected and that the appliance isn't overrated for the outlet. Some easy tests you could do would be to use the toaster oven on a different outlet, and different appliances on the "trouble" outlet, see what happens.
Do you mean the toaster oven cord, or the actual wire inside the wall that feeds the outlet?
One thing that hasn't been brought-up yet is this: Make sure the outlet isn't "back stabbed". I'm not an electrician, but I've worked with, and know, enough of them to have heard numerous horror stories about "back stabbed" outlets that have overheated and/or started fires.
I'm on my 3rd house, and in every one of them, one of the first things I've done is replace all of the outlets, and check all of the switches.
The plug feel was loose when it was hot, but now it feels normal that it's not hotter than eff.^^^I was just going to mention this. I have NO understanding as to why these damn things are SOLD
If it is only the plug/ outlet area getting hot it could be as simple as a worn / corroded/ or poor QUALITY outlet or plug
What is your "feel" for how tight the plug fits the outlet?
Could be worse.
My Son had water running out of his outlet, onto the kitchen counter and then the floor of his apartment.
Took the building owner two weeks to get around to fixing it.
Didnt this happen in a Three Stooges episode ?
Not exactly 230 Volts and not Celsius.This is going to a convection toaster oven that additionally blows hot air out the back. Not real impressed
That is a straight-forward case of high loading and a slightly loose connection.One thing that hasn't been brought-up yet is this: Make sure the outlet isn't "back stabbed". I'm not an electrician, but I've worked with, and know, enough of them to have heard numerous horror stories about "back stabbed" outlets that have overheated and/or started fires.
View attachment 1716274001
I'm on my 3rd house, and in every one of them, one of the first things I've done is replace all of the outlets, and check all of the switches.
Not sure why, but only the kitchen and bathroom outlets are like this one with the breaker-type buttons on the front. Haven't pulled any others apart yet. Do the screws tighten on the wires or does it just stab in?I would replace the outlet from what you describe and it might not be a bad idea to replace the plug on the appliance. The only kinds of plugs (cord caps) I use anymore are the big plastic 2 piece kind that tighten the wire like set screws (not wrap around the screw) They cost more, but are tough and work well, last a very long time.
Oh that'd be much more exciting though. Like when my welder explodedNot exactly 230 Volts and not Celsius.![]()
It’s because they’re in potentially wet environments, being around sinks and such.Not sure why, but only the kitchen and bathroom outlets are like this one with the breaker-type buttons on the front
Residual Current Device (RCD) designed to protect life - probably rated to 30mA tripping current.It’s because they’re in potentially wet environments, being around sinks and such.