110 volt outlet 160 degrees. Is that safe?

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Might be as simple as a loose connection on the back of the outlet. Might not. LOL Kitty's air fryer gets the plug "a little" warm, but only enough to notice. .....and it's a BIG ****.
 
65TerrorCuda said:
I'm on it. Thank you!
Click to expand...

Could be worse.
My Son had water running out of his outlet, onto the kitchen counter and then the floor of his apartment.
Took the building owner two weeks to get around to fixing it.
 
TrailBeast said:
Could be worse.
My Son had water running out of his outlet, onto the kitchen counter and then the floor of his apartment.
Took the building owner two weeks to get around to fixing it.
Click to expand...
What could possibly go wrong? Just giving it time to flush the dirt outta the outlet...
 
Check the back of the device to see what it's rated at; toaster ovens are notoriously power-hungry.

Ok, well; think about it;
If it's a 15amp circuit, then the device can draw 1800 watts.
That's like a space heater/window air-conditioner, on high. All my space heaters etc, when running WFO, have warm cords; and the smaller the gauge, the warmer the cords.
Plus, the further the 14ga wiring goes out from the panel, the warmer the cords run.
But see, my Daddy didn't raise no dumbass,
I put multiple small heaters on separate circuits, out on the long lines, and reserve the big 1500s, for short 12 gauge lines.
And so, the same thinking applies to "toaster ovens" ........
When I wired my kitchen, I ran only 12 ga lines and every receptacle is split and running on opposite busses, with no more than two duplex receptacles per line. So then, if I wanted to, every receptacle could deliver 240 volts and maybe 40 amps. My house will never catch fire from faulty house wiring.

Ok so check the back of the device and see what it's rated for, lol.
Toaster ovens are notoriously power hungry.
 
TrailBeast said:
Could be worse.
My Son had water running out of his outlet, onto the kitchen counter and then the floor of his apartment.
Took the building owner two weeks to get around to fixing it.
Click to expand...
Water cooled outlet no thanks! That's awful

AJ/FormS said:
Check the back of the device to see what it's rated at; toaster ovens are notoriously power-hungry.
Click to expand...

It's 1800 watts. Great info AJ!

RustyRatRod said:
Might be as simple as a loose connection on the back of the outlet. Might not. LOL Kitty's air fryer gets the plug "a little" warm, but only enough to notice. .....and it's a BIG ****.
Click to expand...
The wire itself is around 120 but the plug is 160, making me suspect the outlet like you and bodyperson said. This hoobajoob heats the hell out of the wall even spaced away
 
House built in the 70's or 80's? Maybe aluminum wiring? The connections are known to work their way loose due to the difference in material between the receptical terminal and the wire.

Maybe the receptical is just getting sloppy where the appliance plugs in (resistance).
 
Is the outlet always hot, or only hot when you're using the toaster oven? Is the circuit GFI-protected? There's too much resistance somewhere, you need to find out where before something bad happens. An EXTREMELY high number of house fires start from faulty electrical systems.

If it were me, I'd make sure the circuit is GFI-protected and that the appliance isn't overrated for the outlet. Some easy tests you could do would be to use the toaster oven on a different outlet, and different appliances on the "trouble" outlet, see what happens.

65TerrorCuda said:
The wire itself is around 120
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Do you mean the toaster oven cord, or the actual wire inside the wall that feeds the outlet?
 
One thing that hasn't been brought-up yet is this: Make sure the outlet isn't "back stabbed". I'm not an electrician, but I've worked with, and know, enough of them to have heard numerous horror stories about "back stabbed" outlets that have overheated and/or started fires.

main-qimg-1a3bc0eab36d3641e14cd0730ff1c140-lq.jpg


I'm on my 3rd house, and in every one of them, one of the first things I've done is replace all of the outlets, and check all of the switches.
 
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^^^I was just going to mention this. I have NO understanding as to why these damn things are SOLD


If it is only the plug/ outlet area getting hot it could be as simple as a worn / corroded/ or poor QUALITY outlet or plug

What is your "feel" for how tight the plug fits the outlet?
 
A true and enraging story about "back stab" outlets

When I was doing the 911 telco/ radio work for the Motorola outfit in the '90s we had to add some stuff to a place called "Deer Lake Mountain" up by Deer Park, N of Spokane. We had bought what were SUPPOSED to be good quality, all metal case, NAME brand power strips to put into this radio cabinet. There were several components that had to go with this radio, including a backup float charger, a data device, and the radio itself, etc, and outlets at this very small radio building were SEVERELY limited. (I don't know what THEY were thinking, either)

Worse this site is up a HORRIBLE trail that is hard on pickups, with dodging trees and big limbs, rocks, it's a treat. Damage to the truck/ pain/ mirrors almost always happens.

WE HAD of course tested all this in the shop. So I get up to this site, set the radio up on the bench, and plugged it in, all working, fine. And then something quit. Ended up taking the POWER STRIP apart and it is manufactured with---BACK STAB outlets, and one of them does not work, and the way they are daisy chained, I had no way to fix it

We did manage to slide the radio part way off the bench and stretch the power cords to an outlet, but it was NOT pretty

I WAS PISSED. We would have had NO reason to return to that site until part of that equipment developed a problem, and instead, I had to go argue with the Square D supplier in Spokane, and I mean ARGUE as they did not like returns, and then drive all the way up that mess just to replace a power strip that was allegedly "high quality."
 
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CFD244 said:
House built in the 70's or 80's? Maybe aluminum wiring? The connections are known to work their way loose due to the difference in material between the receptical terminal and the wire.

Maybe the receptical is just getting sloppy where the appliance plugs in (resistance).
Click to expand...
1980 I think. All copper that I've found so far. My childhood home had aluminum wiring which didn't sit well with dad.

Righty Tighty said:
Is the outlet always hot, or only hot when you're using the toaster oven? Is the circuit GFI-protected? There's too much resistance somewhere, you need to find out where before something bad happens. An EXTREMELY high number of house fires start from faulty electrical systems.

If it were me, I'd make sure the circuit is GFI-protected and that the appliance isn't overrated for the outlet. Some easy tests you could do would be to use the toaster oven on a different outlet, and different appliances on the "trouble" outlet, see what happens.


Do you mean the toaster oven cord, or the actual wire inside the wall that feeds the outlet?
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This outlet has the gfi buttons on it. I tried the toaster on another outlet and it only got to 90 degrees at the plug. The toaster cord was 120 before, I only just got into the outlet itself. I can see some discoloration where the toaster was plugged in, the bottom. All that other crap I thought was burnt insulation at first but is actual crap from roaches. Ugh
110 outlet.jpg

ProjectBazza said:
One thing that hasn't been brought-up yet is this: Make sure the outlet isn't "back stabbed". I'm not an electrician, but I've worked with, and know, enough of them to have heard numerous horror stories about "back stabbed" outlets that have overheated and/or started fires.

I'm on my 3rd house, and in every one of them, one of the first things I've done is replace all of the outlets, and check all of the switches.
Click to expand...

Looks back stabbed to me. These don't look like they can be screwed onto the side like what I'm used to either.

67Dart273 said:
^^^I was just going to mention this. I have NO understanding as to why these damn things are SOLD


If it is only the plug/ outlet area getting hot it could be as simple as a worn / corroded/ or poor QUALITY outlet or plug

What is your "feel" for how tight the plug fits the outlet?
Click to expand...
The plug feel was loose when it was hot, but now it feels normal that it's not hotter than eff.

This toaster sucks air into the side and exhausts out the back, just measured it and it's 184 degrees. That was blowing directly onto the outlet. Oops. Hot wires bad.

Tried the same outlet but with an extension cord and toaster farther away, barely gets warm now. I'm thinking it was that blow torch air.
 
I would replace the outlet from what you describe and it might not be a bad idea to replace the plug on the appliance. The only kinds of plugs (cord caps) I use anymore are the big plastic 2 piece kind that tighten the wire like set screws (not wrap around the screw) They cost more, but are tough and work well, last a very long time.
 
ProjectBazza said:
One thing that hasn't been brought-up yet is this: Make sure the outlet isn't "back stabbed". I'm not an electrician, but I've worked with, and know, enough of them to have heard numerous horror stories about "back stabbed" outlets that have overheated and/or started fires.

View attachment 1716274001

I'm on my 3rd house, and in every one of them, one of the first things I've done is replace all of the outlets, and check all of the switches.
Click to expand...
That is a straight-forward case of high loading and a slightly loose connection.

See it all the time.
 
67Dart273 said:
I would replace the outlet from what you describe and it might not be a bad idea to replace the plug on the appliance. The only kinds of plugs (cord caps) I use anymore are the big plastic 2 piece kind that tighten the wire like set screws (not wrap around the screw) They cost more, but are tough and work well, last a very long time.
Click to expand...
Not sure why, but only the kitchen and bathroom outlets are like this one with the breaker-type buttons on the front. Haven't pulled any others apart yet. Do the screws tighten on the wires or does it just stab in?
kiwigtx said:
Not exactly 230 Volts and not Celsius. :rofl:
Click to expand...
Oh that'd be much more exciting though. Like when my welder exploded
 
Righty Tighty said:
It’s because they’re in potentially wet environments, being around sinks and such.
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Residual Current Device (RCD) designed to protect life - probably rated to 30mA tripping current.
Used in wet or outdoor environments - where you are likely to find a body of water like a sink, basin or bath/shower tub.

To prevent numbskulls from having a bath with a toaster and killing themselves. Whitney Houston could have used one. :rolleyes:
 
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