Topless69
Well-Known Member
Dang, looks like if you hit a nasty pothole you’d snap the snout off. Have you thought about some kind of support mounted to the timing cover?
174/177 supercharged small block, where to start?
- Thread starter mopardude318
- Start date
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DARTGAME
SuPeRcHaRgEd
Double check pulley alignment as @MiradaMegaCab suggested. I figured with the 10 rib belt throwing would be really challenging. Maybe a belt with deeper grooves would help also.
I tried a belt 1” shorter. Does not work, too short, even moving the tensioner bracket all the way over, which I found creates another problem…
The trouble spot I found is that the top pulley being 2.5” diameter, I think makes the travel of the belt by the tensioner very close, too narrow. There’s not a lot of room to move the tensioner over to the other holes before the tensioner itself contacts the belt...LOL… what a frickin riot.
The trouble spot I found is that the top pulley being 2.5” diameter, I think makes the travel of the belt by the tensioner very close, too narrow. There’s not a lot of room to move the tensioner over to the other holes before the tensioner itself contacts the belt...LOL… what a frickin riot.
j par
Well-hung Member
Yes the struggle as I like to call it.. one step forward two steps back..
Like I told every customer I ever had if it was easy everybody would have one...
Keep struggling you'll get it..
Running an 1190 belt with 2.5 top and 6" bottom pulley I had to shorten the threaded rod a bit to clear the belt and i keep a nylock nut at the very end just incase. I Also assemble the tensioner the way the other fella describes. It worked out i can swap top pulleys to 3 1/2" and longer belt and keep the tensioner in the same mount holes.
Hope you get it sorted, throwing the belt can't be fun.
Hope you get it sorted, throwing the belt can't be fun.
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Mopardude318, I also forgot to mention was in order to get the idler pulley on I have to run a stack of washers on the threaded rod to stop the nut from bottoming out on the shank (must be a bolt then) that way I can get the idler fully collapsed/compressed, I then swing the idler up to the belt and put the other bolt in, take the nut and washers off and put the nylock nut on the very end just incase the belt fails I won't lose my idler .
Okay. I finally found a 1/2 inch shorter belt after searching high and low. With this belt, I was able to move the tensioner over one set of holes, and like was suggested, install one bolt, then lever the tensioner up and install the other bolt.
The tensioner nut where the cotter pin is, now no longer rests against the tensioner body. I think this allows more travel for the tensioner to take up belt slack.
I went for a test drive and it seems to work. I can downshift aggressively and the RPMs come up and the belt no longer throws.
Here’s a short video, the tensioner moves and takes up slack. It never used to do that.
The tensioner nut where the cotter pin is, now no longer rests against the tensioner body. I think this allows more travel for the tensioner to take up belt slack.
I went for a test drive and it seems to work. I can downshift aggressively and the RPMs come up and the belt no longer throws.
Here’s a short video, the tensioner moves and takes up slack. It never used to do that.
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