18 spline A body 4 speed

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OK , then can you please tell me what gears to purchase to build my 23 spline to be stronger if that's an option. Also what clutch and PP to run in order to not break stuff. I really want to rip gear with the car , no lift shifts and hole shots without having to worry. It's a high 11 second 340 , weighing about 3200 lbs. I appreciate your help. The current clutch is a RAM paddle disc (star) and CF 2 PP.


That disc has been by and will forever be a parts breaker. That disc should only be used in circle track stuff.

Your pressure plate is ok. For what you are doing I’d get a rag disc in it and go.

If you have to you can buy a clutch tamer but you still need to scrap that disc.

If you want an actual, tunable clutch I’d call Rob Youngblood at Advanced Clutches and buy one from him. Expect to pay 2200 bucks or a touch more.


Worth every penny IMO.
 
That disc has been by and will forever be a parts breaker. That disc should only be used in circle track stuff.

Your pressure plate is ok. For what you are doing I’d get a rag disc in it and go.

If you have to you can buy a clutch tamer but you still need to scrap that disc.

If you want an actual, tunable clutch I’d call Rob Youngblood at Advanced Clutches and buy one from him. Expect to pay 2200 bucks or a touch more.


Worth every penny IMO.
Yeah that's not going to happen lol. Any over the counter clutches ? That's way out of my price range.
 
Yeah that's not going to happen lol. Any over the counter clutches ? That's way out of my price range.


Then I would use what you have and buy a clutch tamer.

Of course if you are going to buy a CT I would contact Grant and verify he thinks a rag disc is ok using his CT. He may suggest a different disc.

I’ve never used a CT but next year I’ll get a chance to tune with one next year. So for tuning advice and what disc to use I’d ask Grant.

If you don’t do an adjustable clutch I suggest you spend the little bit of money on the Clutch Tamer. It will pay for itself and then some the first time you don’t break a gearbox.

@weedburner should get Grant on here to help you out.
 
Then I would use what you have and buy a clutch tamer.

Of course if you are going to buy a CT I would contact Grant and verify he thinks a rag disc is ok using his CT. He may suggest a different disc.

I’ve never used a CT but next year I’ll get a chance to tune with one next year. So for tuning advice and what disc to use I’d ask Grant.

If you don’t do an adjustable clutch I suggest you spend the little bit of money on the Clutch Tamer. It will pay for itself and then some the first time you don’t break a gearbox.

@weedburner should get Grant on here to help you out.
So they don't sell a dual friction type of clutch disc other than that price range? I'm open to buy a new clutch and PP but not looking to spend that much.
 
So they don't sell a dual friction type of clutch disc other than that price range? I'm open to buy a new clutch and PP but not looking to spend that much.


Grant may tell you to buy a DF disc if you use his CT.

You may want to google clutch tamer and check out his website if you aren’t familiar with his stuff.

It will stop breakage. I’m just not sure which disc you should use for the CT.

If you don’t want to do the CT then I’d call McLeod and get whatever organic disc they suggest.

What breaks parts is these clutches that lock up as soon as the clutch is out.

You go from no clutch load to full clutch load in less than a second. All that load hits parts like a 50 pound splitting mall. And you multiply that by however many rpm you are shifting.

I used 50 pounds because most guys use a 30 pound wheel and another 20 or so pounds for the PP.

What needs to be done is you need to control the application of the clutch. Doing that means that rather than have the clutch fully locked up as you make the shift, you slowly (relatively slowly) allow the pedal to come back (talking about the CT now) and that allows the engine rpm and clutch speed to come together at a rate that won’t kill parts.

An adjustable clutch does almost the same thing except it’s slightly different.

Either way, the CT will stop parts breakage. But wait!! There is a BIG BONUS!

When you get the CT sorted out and tuned up (it’s not hard to do, you just have to sneak up on the tune up) your car WILL be quicker and faster.

I 100% guarantee that.
 
I had planned on going with this disc with the Centerforce DF pressure plate. (my understanding is you mine as well buy a couple because they won't last, but it'll save parts)

M260120 McLEOD 10.5" 23 SPLINE ORGANIC CLUTCH DISC
Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists
Clutch tamer was already mentioned :thumbsup:

Found this on Craigslist (not sure how well it's built or if shipping would kill the deal......)
MoPar 4-Speed Transmissions, Flywheels, Bellhousings & Clutch - auto parts - by owner - vehicle automotive sale -...
00P0P_2z5OBVXoLTh_0ak07K_600x450.jpg


Best of luck!
 
I had planned on going with this disc with the Centerforce DF pressure plate. (my understanding is you mine as well buy a couple because they won't last, but it'll save parts)

M260120 McLEOD 10.5" 23 SPLINE ORGANIC CLUTCH DISC
Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists
Clutch tamer was already mentioned :thumbsup:

Found this on Craigslist (not sure how well it's built or if shipping would kill the deal......)
MoPar 4-Speed Transmissions, Flywheels, Bellhousings & Clutch - auto parts - by owner - vehicle automotive sale -...
00P0P_2z5OBVXoLTh_0ak07K_600x450.jpg


Best of luck!
Hey thanks for the info. Ill check that disc out. Much appreciated!!
 
So I guess my next question is , Is there a company such as Liberty etc. who manufactures replacement parts (gears) for direct replacement A833 but are stronger than stock?
 
So I guess my next question is , Is there a company such as Liberty etc. who manufactures replacement parts (gears) for direct replacement A833 but are stronger than stock?


You can not build a gear strong enough that I can put a clutch together to kill it. Usually in one shift.

Breaking parts is not a parts issue. It’s garbage clutches being sold by either liars or idiots that is killing the parts.

You can buy the best gears you can find. You can cryogenically treat them, REM polish the hell out of them and a garbage clutch will kill it.

You are going the right direction with fixing your clutch.

The 833 will take way more than most guys ever put through one and not break.

A healthy /6 will trash a gearbox on a run with a junk clutch.
 
You can not build a gear strong enough that I can put a clutch together to kill it. Usually in one shift.

Breaking parts is not a parts issue. It’s garbage clutches being sold by either liars or idiots that is killing the parts.

You can buy the best gears you can find. You can cryogenically treat them, REM polish the hell out of them and a garbage clutch will kill it.

You are going the right direction with fixing your clutch.

The 833 will take way more than most guys ever put through one and not break.

A healthy /6 will trash a gearbox on a run with a junk clutch.
So that clutch ( Mcleod Organic) stated above with what PP? will it be fine with no tamer? good enough to street drive but have fun dumping the clutch or power shifting occasionally when I want to have some fun?
 
So that clutch ( Mcleod Organic) stated above with what PP? will it be fine with no tamer? good enough to street drive but have fun dumping the clutch or power shifting occasionally when I want to have some fun?


If the pressure plate isn’t over about 2400 pounds it won’t break parts. If it’s over that it will start picking off the weak parts.

I learned it this way.

Pressure plate load is what kills parts. When I was in high school I killed a clutch. Cost me 250 bucks because I lost the race. In 1980 that was a sizable chunk of cash.

Not knowing my *** from a hole in the ground I opened up the DV catalog and found that junk assed 3500 pound “green” “race” pressure plate. What crap that thing was.

Not only did it cause the firewall to flex, the clutch linkage was bending like a noodle and when I took it apart the cover was fracturing because it wasn’t strong enough and it was flexing too.

And it broke parts even with a rag disc. Just junk **** and Chrysler sold them. You’d hope they would know better.

So you either need an aggressive disc with very load plate load OR you you can use a disc with a lower coefficient of friction and then you have to up the pressure to get it to lock up.

Sooooooo…the higher the plate load (pressure plate spring pressure) the more it will break parts and drive like a toggle switch.

Thinking of plate load like a hammer, the higher the load, the harder the clutch will hit your parts. High plate pressure is a bigger hammer.

That’s why most guys trying to go fast and not kill parts are using what is commonly called a soft lock clutch.

It uses a very high coefficient of friction disc and almost no plate load. How little?

In my prior race car that weighed 2800 pounds with me in it and with a soft lock clutch I used 660 pounds of base pressure. That’s it.

I had to change the pedal ratio in that car because I needed some feel on the clutch pedal.

In my street car now I drive around with about 990 pounds of plate load and IIRC 20 grams of counter weight so it locks up and doesn’t slip when I don’t want it to.

At the track I’ll drop the plate load to about 800 pounds and use 5-10 grams of counter weight.

And that’s in a 3600 pound car.

So the less aggressive the disc the more plate pressure you need. More plate pressure is a bigger hammer beating on your parts.

With what you have you need a much less aggressive disc because your plate load is fairly high.
 
Dan did not have a Liberty gear set in stock?
I guess I got big time lucky, he had the 3.09 in stock and I got that from him.
 
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