1962 dodge lancer v8 swap. info needed

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andrew fabian

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hey guys. i was hoping someone could help me out and another member directed me here.

i have a 1962 dodge lancer slant six 170 with a as far as i know a a904 torqueflite trans. beyond that its a solid rust free car ide like to turn into a street/ strip rod. perhaps more street for now until my engine experiance is a bit higher in the future. but for now i want to start by converting it into a v8.
my question i suppose is where do i start. i have a engine in mind i was thinkging a 360 LA.

i am a handy fellow and think i can handle the swap and what not else comes my way. just dont know the ins and outs and need some sage like advice. ive gone through old forums on here and found a few for valiants. but wasnt to sure on just how similiar they are. also couldnt find year specific info.

so i guess i have alot of bases i need covered like: 360 good idea? will it bolt up to my current 904? do i need to swap the k frame? is there a whole other direction i should be going? i read alot saying use 727 trans. i imagine that means replacing my rear end as well. ide prefer quikest route to reliable daily driving rod for now i suppose. that wont take up my lifes savings haha.

sorry for the rant. been looking into this info for weeks and its toough to find. so any information's greatly appreciated.
 

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um... you're in for fun! first all of the small blocks are about the same, so you can do a 360 about as easy as any of them. the trans will not work. the 6 trans has a different bellhousing configuration. if you can find a 904 cable shift v-8 trans you're in business, but make sure it's up to the added torque you're adding putting it behind a 360. the other alternative I've been looking into is to run a 2004R gm overdrive trans with an adapter plate.
the biggest issue running a v-8 in these is distributor clearance in the heater box area. you can either cut the box and move the heater core, or look into going distributorless on your 360.
 
37fleetwood said:
um... you're in for fun! first all of the small blocks are about the same, so you can do a 360 about as easy as any of them. the trans will not work. the 6 trans has a different bellhousing configuration. if you can find a 904 cable shift v-8 trans you're in business, but make sure it's up to the added torque you're adding putting it behind a 360. the other alternative I've been looking into is to run a 2004R gm overdrive trans with an adapter plate.
the biggest issue running a v-8 in these is distributor clearance in the heater box area. you can either cut the box and move the heater core, or look into going distributorless on your 360.
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right. ive hear of that issue. i planned to remove all the heating elements anyway so a lil chop scoop and reweld is no issue.

so far i pull engine toss it or save for something else. pull trans and do same. i was just looking on craigslist locally and a guy had a 360 w a 727 tranny. no ive also read if i went that route ide have to cut up the floor. am i better off searching out a cable link 904 or the other you suggested?

sorry im like mr 500 questions here
 
Throw a hairdryer on the 6. Keep your heater...
DSC00036.JPG
 
I wish I had contact information for a guy in Salt Lake City who put a 408 in his 62 Valiant. It was an absoluteley sanitary swap. I talking to him though... He removed the heater and replaced it with a heater setup from one of the aftermarket A/C companies so it all went under the dash. He also found a piece from some car in the wrecking yard which provided perfect distributor clearance in the firewall that he cut and welded in. He had a 1964 cable shifted 904 from a '64 Barracuda well built with alto red, kolene steel and a transgo kit. He said aside frome the usual motor mount issue (he fabricated his own from the 64 Barracuda parts car) and a dropped center link, also from the 64 v-8 parts car, there were not a lot of issues. As with all early A-bodies, exhaust was his biggest issue but he lucked onto a set of early Spitfire headers and they fit like a glove. Just the usual notch in the transmission crossmember made easy work for 2-1/2 dual exhaust. He had done the front disk swap from a '73 up and put a 3:55 8.75 a body rear in it. He shortened the driveshaft from the Barracuda and retained the ball and trunnion front u-joint. (which he said had held up well on the street and through several 1/4 mile passes each year) He also modified the radiator core support to provide clearance for an Afco aluminum Ford racing radiator and a Taurus fan but stated that was not necessary if the /6 radiator is replace with the v-8 radiator.
Aside from heater/firewall clearance it appears to be a very similar swap to any early a-body. There's a ton of info on FABO re. v-8s where a six was in early A's.

Good luck with your project and please keep us updated with photos.
 
If you can find a '64 Barracuda, Valiant or Dart parts car with the 273 it would make your life pretty easy as you could swap out all of pulleys, tranny kickdown, throttle cable setup, radiator etc. Be sure you have the center sump oil pan for whatever small block you paln to install. (not the truck pan)
 
grimreaper said:
I wish I had contact information for a guy in Salt Lake City who put a 408 in his 62 Valiant. It was an absoluteley sanitary swap. I talking to him though... He removed the heater and replaced it with a heater setup from one of the aftermarket A/C companies so it all went under the dash. He also found a piece from some car in the wrecking yard which provided perfect distributor clearance in the firewall that he cut and welded in. He had a 1964 cable shifted 904 from a '64 Barracuda well built with alto red, kolene steel and a transgo kit. He said aside frome the usual motor mount issue (he fabricated his own from the 64 Barracuda parts car) and a dropped center link, also from the 64 v-8 parts car, there were not a lot of issues. As with all early A-bodies, exhaust was his biggest issue but he lucked onto a set of early Spitfire headers and they fit like a glove. Just the usual notch in the transmission crossmember made easy work for 2-1/2 dual exhaust. He had done the front disk swap from a '73 up and put a 3:55 8.75 a body rear in it. He shortened the driveshaft from the Barracuda and retained the ball and trunnion front u-joint. (which he said had held up well on the street and through several 1/4 mile passes each year) He also modified the radiator core support to provide clearance for an Afco aluminum Ford racing radiator and a Taurus fan but stated that was not necessary if the /6 radiator is replace with the v-8 radiator.
Aside from heater/firewall clearance it appears to be a very similar swap to any early a-body. There's a ton of info on FABO re. v-8s where a six was in early A's.

Good luck with your project and please keep us updated with photos.
Click to expand...

thak you reaper thats alot of info ill go check into all of that. i really appreciate it. im kinda learning through my research theres no set in stone single right way to do it just alot of wrong ways haha. im just in the planning stages now cars put away for winter here in michigan. its a just a summer driver so having heat and ac was never a concern. to be honest the **** didnt work anyways. it didnt have much of a interior either aside from dash and seats. but all metal was prestine. so i figured instead of resto style ide go with my own fun hot rod. made door panels making a custom gauge set. wanted a v8 so said hey i could probebly get a wratchet **** kit or something and get rid of this push button while im working on this dash. its always one idea that turns into a tornado ain it lol.

but again thank you. im shopping around and dont want to buy the wrong stuff. the girlfriends already always complaining i have to many cars and parts hah
 
grimreaper said:
I wish I had contact information for a guy in Salt Lake City who put a 408 in his 62 Valiant. It was an absoluteley sanitary swap. I talking to him though... He removed the heater and replaced it with a heater setup from one of the aftermarket A/C companies so it all went under the dash. He also found a piece from some car in the wrecking yard which provided perfect distributor clearance in the firewall that he cut and welded in. He had a 1964 cable shifted 904 from a '64 Barracuda well built with alto red, kolene steel and a transgo kit. He said aside frome the usual motor mount issue (he fabricated his own from the 64 Barracuda parts car) and a dropped center link, also from the 64 v-8 parts car, there were not a lot of issues. As with all early A-bodies, exhaust was his biggest issue but he lucked onto a set of early Spitfire headers and they fit like a glove. Just the usual notch in the transmission crossmember made easy work for 2-1/2 dual exhaust. He had done the front disk swap from a '73 up and put a 3:55 8.75 a body rear in it. He shortened the driveshaft from the Barracuda and retained the ball and trunnion front u-joint. (which he said had held up well on the street and through several 1/4 mile passes each year) He also modified the radiator core support to provide clearance for an Afco aluminum Ford racing radiator and a Taurus fan but stated that was not necessary if the /6 radiator is replace with the v-8 radiator.
Aside from heater/firewall clearance it appears to be a very similar swap to any early a-body. There's a ton of info on FABO re. v-8s where a six was in early A's.

Good luck with your project and please keep us updated with photos.
Click to expand...
im sorry something else just occured to me upon re reading your post. you mention as did someone before you a "cable shift 904" this would connect to im assuming most small block v8s like 318 360? i apologize im new to this so im not sure if there are like particular years i should keep a eye out for and so forth.
 
ok guys. and thank you again to everyone for there advice and help thus far.

i did a little hunting and found a fella over here selling a "1967-1978" 904 off of a 318. its on craigslist so i based this off he said it was 60's and according to wiki the 904 was only used behind 318s during that time period.

i sent the guy a message and asked if it was cable link. he wasn't sure. and im afraid i don't know the difference. if i where to have him send a photo should i be able to tell and what am i looking for?

is "cable link" just linkage on the outside of the trans instead of newer electronic trans? im afraid this is a area where im a bit clueless as to terms used.

regardless hes asking 100 bucks. and they seem to be rare around here. i felt that a reasonable deal if it is the correct item.

again any and all help or info appreciated. im learning a lot here thanks for the free education
 
if you go with the 360 you need to address the balance of the torque convertor and the size of the knob on the crank end of the convertor will need to be checked.
 
37fleetwood said:
if you go with the 360 you need to address the balance of the torque convertor and the size of the knob on the crank end of the convertor will need to be checked.
Click to expand...

right and from what i understand there are weight sets to weld on. for the balancing.

as for the knob end. thats a new one to me. theres so many variables here lol. kinda overwhelming. lets say i end up with a good tranny good engine but that particular doesnt match. is that a part that can be swapped. or am i better off just finding one that matches in the first place and save myself the hassle. or maybe just go with a 318?

i also found a 360 with a 727 attached. but that wouldnt find underneath im assuming.
 
"Cable link" refers to the cable linkage to the push-button gear selector for the automatic transmission in your Lancer. This was only used through 64. Later transmissions would either have a column shift linkage or a floor shift linkage. The only year A-bodies had a factory V8 with push-button tranny was 1964, I believe, so you would need that one-year-only transmission. Or, just ignore the push buttons and convert to a floor shift, which would simplify your search, at least.


andrew fabian said:
ok guys. and thank you again to everyone for there advice and help thus far.

i did a little hunting and found a fella over here selling a "1967-1978" 904 off of a 318. its on craigslist so i based this off he said it was 60's and according to wiki the 904 was only used behind 318s during that time period.

i sent the guy a message and asked if it was cable link. he wasn't sure. and im afraid i don't know the difference. if i where to have him send a photo should i be able to tell and what am i looking for?

is "cable link" just linkage on the outside of the trans instead of newer electronic trans? im afraid this is a area where im a bit clueless as to terms used.

regardless hes asking 100 bucks. and they seem to be rare around here. i felt that a reasonable deal if it is the correct item.

again any and all help or info appreciated. im learning a lot here thanks for the free education
Click to expand...
 
the torque convertor issues are fairly simple to figure out. earlier engines and torque convertors have a smaller pilot area, the machined hole in the crank and the corresponding knob on the convertor. the later engines and convertors have a larger pilot.
so to recap new engine and older trans means you need a bushing to make up the difference in pilot sizes.
next issue is the balancing issue. 360's are balanced externally, so the convertor has to be balanced. since they never put the 360 behind a 904 you will need to find a good trans shop and order the correct convertor. if I'm not mistaken you should be able to order a convertor with the correct balancing and pilot size, but make sure you address both issues with them so you get it right the first time.

on a different note, I'm trying to get a '61 Lancer together and just found that it has a cable operated pedal assembly, if you are going to go with the V-8 you will need a cable and I will need the linkage setup you most likely have. maybe a swap is in order? I'll have to confirm this is the right stuff on both ends so everyone's happy.
 
mvh said:
"Cable link" refers to the cable linkage to the push-button gear selector for the automatic transmission in your Lancer. This was only used through 64. Later transmissions would either have a column shift linkage or a floor shift linkage. The only year A-bodies had a factory V8 with push-button tranny was 1964, I believe, so you would need that one-year-only transmission. Or, just ignore the push buttons and convert to a floor shift, which would simplify your search, at least.
Click to expand...

ooookay! now were getting somewhere. i do not have any desire at all to keep the push button. i would very much preffer a floor shifter infact its what i wanted to do. sorry if i hadnt made that clear.

im learning so much here. its tough cause i just dont know what im talking about sometimes haha

so that being said. if i want a 360 LA . and want to have a floor shifting trans. that one off the 318 should be ok then? assuming it was a floor shift 904.
 
37fleetwood said:
the torque convertor issues are fairly simple to figure out. earlier engines and torque convertors have a smaller pilot area, the machined hole in the crank and the corresponding knob on the convertor. the later engines and convertors have a larger pilot.
so to recap new engine and older trans means you need a bushing to make up the difference in pilot sizes.
next issue is the balancing issue. 360's are balanced externally, so the convertor has to be balanced. since they never put the 360 behind a 904 you will need to find a good trans shop and order the correct convertor. if I'm not mistaken you should be able to order a convertor with the correct balancing and pilot size, but make sure you address both issues with them so you get it right the first time.

on a different note, I'm trying to get a '61 Lancer together and just found that it has a cable operated pedal assembly, if you are going to go with the V-8 you will need a cable and I will need the linkage setup you most likely have. maybe a swap is in order? I'll have to confirm this is the right stuff on both ends so everyone's happy.
Click to expand...

yea any and all extra parts are free for the taking of course. im fairly sure its a all rod linked system in it
 
on a side note if anyone knows of a better engine trans set up let me know.

im basically just looking to make myself a fun daily driving street rod.

so whatevers the most cost effective is best for sure.

am i going to have more luck connecting a 904 to a 318 LA? or same balancing issues again?

the only reason i was talking 904s in the first place is cause i kinda feel like i dont know my *** from a hole in the ground at this point haha.
ide assumed anything else ide have to cut up my floor.

im looking to figure this all out and get to buying up goodys and then getting it together come spring when the weather permits here in michigan

is there a v8 and trans out of something in particular i could pretty much just drop in? im aware ill have to make room for distributor. i do want a floor shift. im ok with cutting / replacing drive shaft. just looking for best place to start.

360 was what i wanted. cause its big haha. but ill take whatevers doable
 
the 727 is larger and will hit the lip where the floor board and firewall meet. the 904 is smaller and clears easier. the 200-4R is very small and has the advantage of being an overdrive trans. for it you need the adapter plate, a GM to Torqueflyte torque convertor, and you will need to have a custom drive line made. you will also have to fabricate the rear trans crossmember and mount.
the 318 plan makes the convertor balance issue go away but you will still have the early/late pilot hole issue to watch for depending what year engine/trans combo you end up with.
I had to deal with this when I used a '78 318 with the cable shift trans. not to confuse the issue too much, but you can also use the older trans with a newer front pump which will allow you to use the newer convertor so everything matches.
 
37fleetwood said:
the 727 is larger and will hit the lip where the floor board and firewall meet. the 904 is smaller and clears easier. the 200-4R is very small and has the advantage of being an overdrive trans. for it you need the adapter plate, a GM to Torqueflyte torque convertor, and you will need to have a custom drive line made. you will also have to fabricate the rear trans crossmember and mount.
the 318 plan makes the convertor balance issue go away but you will still have the early/late pilot hole issue to watch for depending what year engine/trans combo you end up with.
I had to deal with this when I used a '78 318 with the cable shift trans. not to confuse the issue too much, but you can also use the older trans with a newer front pump which will allow you to use the newer convertor so everything matches.
Click to expand...

ok i think i understand everything thus far.
727 too big. but could i just cut that section out and re weld material around it?

im starting to think it would just be best if i found a engine with a trans on it already. maybe im wrong you tell me.

i seem to see alot of 360s with 727s on craigslist.
found a 318 with a 402 trans.
found a 904 floor shift off a 60s 318

ideally ide still like the 350 of course. bigger bang for my buck. buck i only have so many bucks haha. and ide like to make them go as far as possible.

i found this info on wiki. as to 904 trans year/engine combinations:

  • 1960-1976 170, 198, 225 Slant Six
  • 1964-1969 273 LA-V8
  • 1967-1978 318 LA-V8
  • 1975-1978 360 2Bbl LA-V8
  • 1972-c.1978 AMC I-6 "Torque-Command 6"
  • 1994-1995 Jeep Wrangler with 4 cylinder engine.
according to this (and tell me if im wrong or its possibly just very unlikely to find) i could search out a 75-78 360 with a 904 still together


would this be a good idea?
or is my inexperience getting the best of me and the issues discussed above. although needing to be dealt with. are very doable. (im reffering to the 360 to 904 and balancing and whatever else or 360 to 200-4r and so on )


i just dont know wich is the best route to take.
 
Keep the slant! I started on my V8 swap in my 65 valiant in 2001. I just drove it for the first time yesterday! In retrospect, a turbo on the 170 woulda been a better way to go. And i could have been driving my car for the past 11 years! If you decide to go the V8 route, be prepared for many unforseen setbacks and obstacles. Finding a cable shift 904 isnt a realistic proposition these days, and without that one thing, you gotta either change the steering column to a later model linkage shift, or use a cheezy aftermarket floor shifter. Headers/manifolds are another big issue. They gotta be specific to early a body. And the stock 7 1/4 rear wont stand up to much more than a stock 318 with spirited driving, so plan on changing that too. Custom driveshaft? you bet! Brakes? That too. Torsion bars? Damn, the list just keeps getting longer! Keep the slant!
 
after some information from reaper. ive decided to go with the 360 and 904 and get a proper plate for it and whatnot. seemed allot more doable after his explanation.

im aware of the undertaking. i have a 51 chevy to cruise in till this is done.

ill being going with a floor shifter. probably ratchet style.

itll be work. but well worth it. got the car for 1200 bucks. i think it would be a sound investment if done well.

im gonna start picking things up.
thanks everyone. ill post progress and any further questions as they come up.
 
some 360's came with a 904, not an issue. Just get a 360 w/904 trans and torque convertor. Done. the 904 fits better, done. 727 is a pain, forget about it! youll need a new driveshaft or mod what you have to fit the slip yoke of the newer trans. youll be getting a post 67 trans anyway so the hub size will not be an issue. Youll need: drop center link, no heater box, mod a motor mount bracket with some washers so it fits (about 5/8 difference on a 360 from a 318) and some 64-66 motor mount brackets to bolt to your K as I think they are the same as the 64-66. Youll also need a generic cable operated floor shifter, B&M, Hurst, Cheetah, etc. and a cable operated accelerator pedal if your 6 had the funky shaft to carb setup. exhaust will be a challenge, either A body 318 logs or Spitfires or big buck Eds or Hedman fenderwells. 318 will be an easier bolt in and with an RV or 268 cam, will be plenty fast with that flyweight chassis. REar end will be another issue as the 7.25 you may have is not very strong but is hard to break in a light car. Is the 6 looking better yet? A hot cam and a header on a 6 will really turn heads at lights and at shows. "Guzzi" Mark Etheridge (Madmax/6) has THE fastest NA class slant toad and his car sounds/is crazy fast.
 
I have a long time friend that him and his dad put a 360 and 904 in a 62 lancer in the mid 80's and that car was a bad MF kind of when I feel in love with the body lines of the 62 model year
Here's my little Toad
IMG_20121014_170759.jpg

IMG_20121005_153308.jpg

IMG_20121005_153234.jpg


I was going to go the V8 route also but I think this turned out better just my opinion
 
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