1963 Valiant Wagon "Candy girl"

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Princess Valiant said:
...discovered the problem is the oil pan is hitting the k frame.
So I started another thread thinking there might be different k frames for 170 vs. 225. Which is a negative.

The problem is the engine is from my 72 demon and all its 1972 glory and has the wrong oil pan.

The correct early A pan has the sump an inch farther back to clear the k frame.
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won't 72' motormounts put the engine in the right place?
 
kursplat said:
won't 72' motormounts put the engine in the right place?
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I hadn't thought of that but I doubt it because it could throw off the trans mount location.

I might just have to get an early A pan to make sure it doesn't touch the k frame. I imagine over time it can chafe a hole through the pan with all the vibrations.
 
You will get it right Rainy. I am having to try and train myself to laugh at myself instead of losing my cool.
 
so it looks like the engine mounts, trans mount and oil pan all need to match. well, you have 2 out of 3. can always notch the K. people do it for oil pans all the time
 
For those discussing the driveshaft.

I have this, I bought it from here on fabo and the seller said it was custom made to fit a ball and trunnion 4 speed in a 73 dart and that's all the info I got.

I have no idea if it fits the valiant but I need to test fit it after I get the final rear end in the car which is a Ford 8.8 with limited slip and 3.73 gears.

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Did it come with a companion flange that matches the output flange on your transmission? If not, it won't work without one.
 
Seems like somewhere I had seen a pic of the various slant 6 pans maybe there were 4 or 5 or 6 for cars, trucks??
I have a 62 Dart (B body)that is column shift and going to floor hump. Going from slant to poly 318 if the trade ever gets done. I been thinking maybe I should go ahead and get that hole cut in the floor. I will use a 66-70 B body hump. Close enough for me!!
 
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I have this driveshaft, cheap if you need it.
Trunion was rebuilt in the early 80's, then I wrecked the car.


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As I examined the floors closer today, I think I am going to repair the floors with standard flat sheetmetal.

The reason is because the area of repair needed. When I went through @RustyRatRod build thread, I see that he cut a very large area out that his pre fabbed panel covered. If I cut that much out, I'd be cutting a lot of good original metal out.

My required repair area is only a fraction of the size of what a pretty fabbed patch panel would cover so I think the regular sheetmetal will do a sufficient repair, however I am going to lose a few strength ribs on the passenger side rear area.

A side advantage of the regular sheet metal repair is that its cheaper and I will get it done this week and i will be able to clean, treat, prime and finish paint the floor with the hump welded in, this week or next. Either way, soon.

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Princess Valiant said:
As I examined the floors closer today I think I am going to repair the floors with standard flat sheetmetal.

The reason is because the area of repair needed. When I went through @RustyRatRod build thread, I see that he cut a very large area out that the president fabbed panel covered. If I cut that much out, I'd be cutting a lot of good original metal out.

My required repair area is only a fraction of the size of what a pretty fabbed patch panel would cover so I think the regular sheetmetal will do a sufficient repair, however I am going to lose a few strength ribs on the passenger side rear area.

A side advantage of the regular sheet metal repair is that its cheaper and I will get it done this week and be able to treat, prime and finish paint the floor with the hump welded in, this week or next. Either way, soon.

View attachment 1715553875
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Do like I did and put some ribs back in the new patch. REAL easy. Stick the metal up on the vise, open the vise about as wide as you need the rib to be and take a deep socket just a little smaller and stick it on the metal right above the open vise jaws. Take your hammer and start gently pounding the socket and metal down into the open vise jaws. Just keep doing that until you have your rib as long and deep as you need it. If you look back at my thread, you can see where I did that on each side in the extra filler panels I had to make because the rust went further than the panel. It's real easy to do. That way, you won't lose any strength in the floor.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Do like I did and put some ribs back in the new patch. REAL easy. Stick the metal up on the vise, open the vise about as wide as you need the rib to be and take a deep socket just a little smaller and stick it on the metal right above the open vise jaws. Take your hammer and start gently pounding the socket and metal down into the open vise jaws. Just keep doing that until you have your rib as long and deep as you need it. If you look back at my thread, you can see where I did that on each side in the extra filler panels I had to make because the rust went further than the panel. It's real easy to do. That way, you won't lose any strength in the floor.
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Looks like I need to go through your whole thread AGAIN. lol

I was at work this afternoon when I was going through it.

I missed the part where you did that. Thanks so much, figures you would find a way to make an easy job of it.

I really think I will have these floors done soon. Some previous owner had shag carpet glued to this floor at some point and that is why it rusted. At least I think but maybe not because the floors in my 72 demon are rusty in the same exact spots as this car.

This car is very rusty for my desert standard but it's going to be so awesome to get this thing looking good as it once did.......... long time ago
 
Princess Valiant said:
Looks like I need to go through your whole thread AGAIN. lol

I was at work this afternoon when I was going through it.

I missed the part where you did that. Thanks so much, figures you would find a way to make an easy job of it.

I really think I will have these floors done soon. Some previous owner had shag carpet glued to this floor at some point and that is why it rusted. At least I think but maybe not because the floors in my 72 demon are rusty in the same exact spots as this car.

This car is very rusty for my desert standard but it's going to be so awesome to get this thing looking good as it once did.......... long time ago
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I didn't actually SHOW how I did it. Bit you can if you like. Won't take but a few to make a video.....the damn wait is the frikkin upload.
 
Princess Valiant said:
That would be a very useful video :thankyou:
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I just made it. I'll post it here soon as it uploads. I am making all these videos for the How To section but they aren't getting posted there for some reason. I guess they must not be good enough.
 
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