wow, that's one way to get more adjustment
1963 Valiant Wagon "Candy girl"
- Thread starter Princess Valiant
- Start date
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66 Valiant wagon
Well-Known Member
I'm following along! Keep going!
I had a little bit of help today and it was appreciated because i have had minimal car time in the last couple of weeks.
So I used the assistance and removed the hood. It's the 65 hood so bye bye as it goes to storage.
I started cleaning up the slant for paint. I wasnt originally going to paint this engine because it's the spare slant and not the final engine being built for this car. The slant I was building for this car is still in covid jail because the machine shop that has the block and head, is still not open. I doubt I will get them back anytime soon, if ever because everything seems to be closing again.
While preparing this engine for paint, the assembly letter marks are seen, cool piece of mopar history.
So I used the assistance and removed the hood. It's the 65 hood so bye bye as it goes to storage.
I started cleaning up the slant for paint. I wasnt originally going to paint this engine because it's the spare slant and not the final engine being built for this car. The slant I was building for this car is still in covid jail because the machine shop that has the block and head, is still not open. I doubt I will get them back anytime soon, if ever because everything seems to be closing again.
While preparing this engine for paint, the assembly letter marks are seen, cool piece of mopar history.
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LocuMob
Fluid Technician
Gonna replicate the markings?
No, because I'm changing the oil pan, valve cover and color to match the 1963 car. 72 engine dressed like a 63 engine.
The engine is a 1972 and the numbers matching engine to my 72 demon which was V8 swapped.
LocuMob
Fluid Technician
That's right, and you're throwing speed parts at it too.
I sure would never worry about replicating those marks. You couldn't see them anyway, because Chrysler painted over them.
It feels kinda dumb putting speed parts on this engine because its a stock engine. But i need to plumb the linkages and wire everything for the long manifold and headers so this engine will have the good stuff it wont be able to support, performance wise LOL
LocuMob
Fluid Technician
That's my philosophy, dress up the pig.
I think it's international harvester red is the color i need to be period correct for 1963.
I am just getting it close. I am not a pure numbers kind of gal because if i were i wouldn't be separating numbers matching cars LOL but i like to get it "close enough" and look legit at first glance
That's the right color. My 225 long rod project motor is painted that color.
ndeconte
Well-Known Member
Nice!
Always like seeing another wagon being worked on!
Always like seeing another wagon being worked on!
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Go Rainy go!
Wire brush on a drill and hand held wire brush, engine degreaser, bucket of dish soap and water and finally, 6 hours later it's ready for primer and paint.
I need to strip the oil Pan and valve cover to switch them out before the paint flies.
Detail cleaning an engine that is not apart for rebuild is really a long tedious job. You have to watch that no water gets in the wrong holes and just when you think it's done, you find a missed grease spot.
I need to strip the oil Pan and valve cover to switch them out before the paint flies.
Detail cleaning an engine that is not apart for rebuild is really a long tedious job. You have to watch that no water gets in the wrong holes and just when you think it's done, you find a missed grease spot.
Just had to try it on for size. I'm getting really really excited to have all these parts ive been saving come together.
So I got home early today, at least it always feels early when I work a regular 8 hour shift. So I spent some time cleaning up the early A oil pan, thanks @halfafish and I put the engine in the car for test fit number one.
The main objective now is to plumb the throttle linkage and wiring so I can drill all holes necessary now, before engine compartment paint can proceed.
I am happy that it clears a dual pot master cylinder.
After I get the throttle linkage and wiring done, the engine comes out again.
Thanks to @Kern Dog for help with an early A valve cover.
Now to research how I'm going to do the throttle linkage, thanks to @Hyper_pak I have some reading to do.
The main objective now is to plumb the throttle linkage and wiring so I can drill all holes necessary now, before engine compartment paint can proceed.
I am happy that it clears a dual pot master cylinder.
After I get the throttle linkage and wiring done, the engine comes out again.
Thanks to @Kern Dog for help with an early A valve cover.
Now to research how I'm going to do the throttle linkage, thanks to @Hyper_pak I have some reading to do.
The manifold is a game changer and I was worried it wouldn't clear necessary parts.
It takes up a lot of engine compartment real estate, that's for sure.
I don't have the correct air cleaner yet but it's going to be interesting to find something that clears the hood.
It takes up a lot of engine compartment real estate, that's for sure.
I don't have the correct air cleaner yet but it's going to be interesting to find something that clears the hood.
Glad it worked for you, and glad it fit. It's a karma thing from my Valiant to your Valiant.
I may have a chrome 10" air cleaner assembly.....
That long ram intake looks really cool.
That long ram intake looks really cool.
Hyper_pak
Old School Chrysler Fan
You might want to think about the k frame lowering blocks, ala Hemi Barracuda and Darts. The 225 has the higher deck, translated less hood clearance. So a dropped base, offset Long Ram cleaner, something like that will be needed. Can't go too big diameter as it gets close to battery + terminal.
Here are a couple linkage images. Bracket and a long rod. Notice the jog for the 225 VS 170.
Here are a couple linkage images. Bracket and a long rod. Notice the jog for the 225 VS 170.
Space? Remember why mother Mopar built the slant on the SLANT! lol
I have enough old hotrodder in me to not mind a home in the hood maybe!!??
I have enough old hotrodder in me to not mind a home in the hood maybe!!??
Unconventional
Well-Known Member
That's certainly creative. Is it my imagination or is there a difference in the intake runner size to perhaps equalize the flow?
I am not familiar with the k frame lowering blocks and when I Google search it only comes up with suspension lowering stuff.
What do they look like, can they be made? Are they available??
Thanks for the idea
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