Mr. Sinister
Devastation Manager
Sounds more like a set of spacers BETWEEN the K frame and the frame rails. JMO
1963 Valiant Wagon "Candy girl"
- Thread starter Princess Valiant
- Start date
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Hyper_pak
Old School Chrysler Fan
I am sure we can find a source for the spacers, they were on ebay a while ago. The ebay ones were steel, but aluminum would work. Here is an image of what they would look like. I think they were 1/2 blocks for the Hemi's. These bolts are wrong, but you can see the idea. You drop the K, insert the spacers and bolt it back together. It's going to change a few other items, but problems are just looking for solutions, right?
Hyper_pak
Old School Chrysler Fan
Lots of info over in the Hemi A Body Forum. Here is their spacer, looks like 1/2 inch.
OK so today was interesting because k frame lowering blocks were suggested and I jumped the gun and made some 1 inch blocks which I think might be too much
But before I even think of modifying the k frame, I decided to make a pair of solid steel motor mounts.
This will do a few things.
+ I can make the mounts slightly thinner to lower the engine a bit, like a 1/4 to 1/2 which will help the air cleaner a lot.
+ I am out of rotation with the current mounts so with steel mounts I can control the amount of rotation the engine makes. I put a level on the car and it's dead level and then I put the level on the intake and it's a bubble off. If I can rotate the engine level then it will move the carb side of the engine down and away from the hood.
Then after that is done, I'm going to test fit the hood again and if it all flies then great. If not then I'm going to look into hood bracing mods. Then if that still doesn't work then I will look into k frame mods.
Then after the engine is in where it is going to reside permanently then I will make the linkage. Which I have a plan how I'm going to do that .
I'm going with the @RustyRatRod suggestion of not putting the cart before the horse..
Thanks for all the input everyone
But before I even think of modifying the k frame, I decided to make a pair of solid steel motor mounts.
This will do a few things.
+ I can make the mounts slightly thinner to lower the engine a bit, like a 1/4 to 1/2 which will help the air cleaner a lot.
+ I am out of rotation with the current mounts so with steel mounts I can control the amount of rotation the engine makes. I put a level on the car and it's dead level and then I put the level on the intake and it's a bubble off. If I can rotate the engine level then it will move the carb side of the engine down and away from the hood.
Then after that is done, I'm going to test fit the hood again and if it all flies then great. If not then I'm going to look into hood bracing mods. Then if that still doesn't work then I will look into k frame mods.
Then after the engine is in where it is going to reside permanently then I will make the linkage. Which I have a plan how I'm going to do that .
I'm going with the @RustyRatRod suggestion of not putting the cart before the horse..
Thanks for all the input everyone
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Have you thought of some sort of support strut for that manifold? It sure does hang out there a LONG way.
Yes, I made one out of an A/c tube bracket
Hell yeah, that's EXACTLY what I was going to recommend. Like Daddy used to say, "ain't no flies on you". lol
so because the manifold hangs out so far, I felt it is vital the engine doesn't move around much if not at all if possible.
So I made the decision to make steel motor mounts to limit the movement.
I am not worried about vibrations or noise because this car does not have to be quiet lol.
So In making the mounts, I used wood blocks of different sizes to determine how I can get the most hood clearance and still keep everything else happy. I dropped the driver side mount down a half inch and added a 1/4 inch on the passenger side. Everything is happy and I have hood clearance
So I made the decision to make steel motor mounts to limit the movement.
I am not worried about vibrations or noise because this car does not have to be quiet lol.
So In making the mounts, I used wood blocks of different sizes to determine how I can get the most hood clearance and still keep everything else happy. I dropped the driver side mount down a half inch and added a 1/4 inch on the passenger side. Everything is happy and I have hood clearance
I'm really happy with the final placement of the engine, it feels like everything is very accessible and feels really simple and clean.
I decided on an air cleaner and put a shorter air filter of the same diameter to get clearance.
I put an ear plug on the lid and shut the hood, it touched the ear plug but didn't smash it, and that was really holding the hood down.
I put an ear plug on the lid and shut the hood, it touched the ear plug but didn't smash it, and that was really holding the hood down.
Now that I know the engine is not going anywhere and the hood clears everything, I feel like it's time to address the linkage .
So far I like where this is going.
I bought a 3 foot section of rod and cut a notch on the end for the gas pedal side.
So far I like where this is going.
I bought a 3 foot section of rod and cut a notch on the end for the gas pedal side.
Very nice work, young lady!
One thing that hit me as I was closing shop for the day....... where was @Hyper_pak oil dipstick??
I went back and looked at pics of the lancersaurus and I don't see an oil dipstick anywhere.
Where did they put the oil dipstick on original hyper pak equipped cars ??
I went back and looked at pics of the lancersaurus and I don't see an oil dipstick anywhere.
Where did they put the oil dipstick on original hyper pak equipped cars ??
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I think that's about the only place it'll go.
cudavert
DARTAHOLIC
zkx14
Duster De-ruster
This looks like it jus hides under the first intake runner.
Road draft tube. LOL
What air cleaner lid are you using?
There are some very clever things going on here - I continue to be impressed with your creativity and fabrication skills. This is a way cool ride, can't wait to see it going down the road.
I had clearance (1/8 inch) on my air cleaner until I revved the motor. Then it hit the hood. Just enough to rattle. I have thought about a torque strap. Maybe later
Hyper_pak
Old School Chrysler Fan
As shown on the factory picture, a short dipstick beside the support rod is about all you can do. Mine had the factory exhaust manifolds, so it was tight in that area.
Look right beside the battery, you can see the Red paint stick and the tube below.
Look right beside the battery, you can see the Red paint stick and the tube below.
Dave_J
Well-Known Member
Now to all the extra holes in the fire wall and those elongated fender bolt holes, this is where a thick copper plate works. You put the copper plate behind the cleaned up hole then MIG weld the tin to fill the hole shut. The weld will not stick to the copper.
Then grind the welds flat and redrill the holes as needed.
I used 1 inch copper pipe that I hammered flat on one end and put a bend in enough to hold it flat. Do a hole and let the tool cool as copper conducts heat well and I have burnt my hand when doing too many holes at once.
Then grind the welds flat and redrill the holes as needed.
I used 1 inch copper pipe that I hammered flat on one end and put a bend in enough to hold it flat. Do a hole and let the tool cool as copper conducts heat well and I have burnt my hand when doing too many holes at once.
Well dang, car building is mega time consuming but I got the throttle linkage bracket made.
It will be a lot prettier with a coat of primer and paint but at least now I have something to paint.
It will be a lot prettier with a coat of primer and paint but at least now I have something to paint.
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The process of making the bracket was pretty fun but mega time consuming.
It started out as a scrap piece metal under the work bench.
I don't have a press or metal brake so I figured the easiest way to get a 90 degree angle with metal this thick was to make 2 pieces and weld it at the 90 degree corner.
So I started out by shaping heavy construction paper to what I thought would work.
Then I put the cardboard on the metal and used cheap paint to make the outline.
Then I rough cut it out with a Sawzall, luckily the sheet was big enough that I could stand on the opposite end of the metal sheet I was cutting.
Then, holding the pieces with a pair vice grips, i tuned in the shape with a grinder.
Then I tack welded it at 90 degrees and verified
It started out as a scrap piece metal under the work bench.
I don't have a press or metal brake so I figured the easiest way to get a 90 degree angle with metal this thick was to make 2 pieces and weld it at the 90 degree corner.
So I started out by shaping heavy construction paper to what I thought would work.
Then I put the cardboard on the metal and used cheap paint to make the outline.
Then I rough cut it out with a Sawzall, luckily the sheet was big enough that I could stand on the opposite end of the metal sheet I was cutting.
Then, holding the pieces with a pair vice grips, i tuned in the shape with a grinder.
Then I tack welded it at 90 degrees and verified
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Then I finished welding and ground everything and then used a 80 grit DA sander to smooth the edges and smooth it out.
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