1963 Valiant Wagon "Candy girl"

-
When I drilled the hole for the linkage rod I used a stepped drill bit and stopped one step down from what I needed because I used a file the rest of the way so I can press in a door pin bushing after the bracket is painted.

I also drilled the holes to the manifold one step up so there is a slight adjustment of the bracket.

20200801_204953.jpg


20200801_204751.jpg
 
The air filter also came in today. This is the difference between the wix 42044 (CA 305) which is the most common in Mopar air cleaners and the wix 42070.

This is one method I used to get more hood clearance. My final clearance is just a bit more than 1/4 inch from the top of the air cleaner to the hood bracing.

20200801_135453.jpg


20200801_135731.jpg


20200801_135749.jpg


20200731_124009.jpg
 
Princess Valiant said:
When I drilled the hole for the linkage rod I used a stepped drill bit and stopped one step down from what I needed because I used a file the rest of the way so I can press in a door pin bushing after the bracket is painted.

I also drilled the holes to the manifold one step up so there is a slight adjustment of the bracket.

View attachment 1715571477

View attachment 1715571478
Click to expand...

Darn girl , ur gonna turn into a hotrodder yet !
 
So I have another thread about windshield washers. Early A windshield washers

I am really thinking this car never had a windshield washer because it was an option in 63 and came in a package which the car does not have any of the other items from the package.


I think I'm just going to leave it out.

I don't think I will need a windshield washer.

I don't think the holes for the jiffy jet were ever used

20200802_135054.jpg
 
I think my 63 Dart GT Convt had a squeeze foot bulb that worked the windshield washer. It was to the right and above my foot dimmer switch and leaked, shorting out the dimmer.

EDIT: My fluid bag had rotted out so a glass Hinze vinegar bottle was strapped to the inner finder with the suction tube stuck thru the cap.....
 
Last edited:
PV, Anytime I need a bracket I make a card paper template of it. Then lay it flat on my tin sheet. Mark it out with Sharpie. Mark the 90 degree bending line and lock that sucker in my bench vice and just hammer it over 90 degrees on the line. Grind edges to fit, drill holes as needed.

I do like welding and can weld steel pipe over head (4G) but try to do things without welding
 
I drilled a hole in the rod for a cotter pin which will hold a washer against the bracket bushing.

Then I put a vacuum outlet plug over the end to eliminate a hazard and give a finished look

20200802_215357.jpg
 
There is an 1/8 inch of play back and forth from the gas pedal link in the car to the front bracket. So the whole rod moving towards the front of the car to the back is 1/8 inch with a bushing on each end.

And when the rod is to the passenger side that's full closed throttle and the rod to the driver side is WOT.

20200802_213945.jpg


20200802_213944.jpg
 
The carb i have on it now is a mock up carb from a 440, so depending how the final carb to the car will be, I'm thinking I will drill a hole in the bracket for the return spring

It will be on the orange mark

20200802_213916.jpg
 
thanks for the kind words kind fellas.

I re did the support bracket today, turned into a time consuming job big time. My relatives ended up taking it to a friend's shop and flattening the end with a 50 ton press.

Took forever to hammer and twist it into the perfect shape. It really supports the manifold because I unbolted the manifold to the head and the bracket held it exactly where it goes.

Took forever but so worth it. A lot better than my first attempt too. Both versions were originally A/C tube brackets.

20200803_223118.jpg


20200803_180053.jpg
 
My next move is to get a radiator in the car so I can see if I can move my battery tray towards the front of the car. Even an inch will make all the difference.

Can also use a shorter battery. Can't see in the pic but the air cleaner doesn't touch the battery. Its close but even if I didn't move the battery tray it would all co exist but moving the battery might make it look better

20200803_133831.jpg


20200803_133840.jpg
 
A group 34 is the wrong group battery for your car. It should be a group 24. The 24 though is even taller, so that won't work. A group 58 battery is 7" tall. That's 1" shorter than your 34. A 58 with the correct post orientation will work.
 
RustyRatRod said:
A group 34 is the wrong group battery for your car. It should be a group 24. The 24 though is even taller, so that won't work. A group 58 battery is 7" tall. That's 1" shorter than your 34. A 58 with the correct post orientation will work.
Click to expand...
For as simple as the electrical system is in this car, I prolly, don't need 1000 cranking amps.

I usually get 1000 cranking amp batteries because they get around, I use this one to power the trailer winch and anything and everything else. Nothing is more frustrating than a weak *** battery.
 
Princess Valiant said:
For as simple as the electrical system is in this car, I prolly, don't need 1000 cranking amps.

I usually get 1000 cranking amp batteries because they get around, I use this one to power the trailer winch and anything and everything else. Nothing is more frustrating than a weak *** battery.
Click to expand...

I know you're right.
 
I also dug out of my stash, the alternator bracket that relocates the alternator to the driver side of the engine just like the original hyper pak cars.

I like the cleaner look on the passenger side of the engine without the alternator.

Now I just reminded myself that I need to make a bracket for the coil because the coil usually bolts to the alternator bracket which is not there now with this setup.

OK, now I'm thinking out loud .... lol :realcrazy:

20200803_180546.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top