Plashy! I try as much as I can nut I also just little every day. It will make progress on the car and still having time left.
1965 Dodge Dart 270 2 dr sedan
- Thread starter 65dartcharger
- Start date
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Plashy! I try as much as I can nut I also just little every day. It will make progress on the car and still having time left.
The factory 4 bbl camshaft came out easily but two lifters refused to pop out!:banghead:
The gear drive needs one hole exactly where the casted 3 is placed. Need to grind it off and drill that hole. Since the camshaft is here in a while I can make the short block ready.
I have to go through the heads. I have some nos valves of needed. But I need to get new valve springs. Any suggestions?
The gear drive needs one hole exactly where the casted 3 is placed. Need to grind it off and drill that hole. Since the camshaft is here in a while I can make the short block ready.
I have to go through the heads. I have some nos valves of needed. But I need to get new valve springs. Any suggestions?
What are the benefits of a gear driven camshaft?
And no, I definitely don't have any spring suggestions.
/newbie
And no, I definitely don't have any spring suggestions.
/newbie
First of all it will be more exact. Next, the cool factor. Noice gear drive reminds of a blown engine, at least the noise!
Tonight I was able to grind down the casted 3 so next step will be to drill the hole. According to the instruction there should just be a pin in the hole. I'm thinking of making threads instead.
Thanks Swedefish!
Tonight I continued to measure so I could drill in the exact right position. Tomorrow will be the drilling day. It's the lower right hole that will be drilled. Then hopefully making thread. Can't wait to get the camshaft and adjust it all!
Do you have a windage tray for that beast? If not, I have a couple extra and could send you one. Don't have any of the special main cap bolts though (readily available at Mancini's for example).
That would be sweet! I have reconsider my plans. Thinking of building a swing pick-up. Back in the days they used 413 swing arms but havent found any yet. :banghead:
I will drop you a PM about the wind age trays
Thanks Don!
With a little help from my friend Johan we drilled out the hole and made 5/16" threads. Now I can use a pinbolt!
Camshaft, we're are you? Lol
With a little help from my friend Johan we drilled out the hole and made 5/16" threads. Now I can use a pinbolt!
Camshaft, we're are you? Lol
Somewhere in the Swedish postal system! It has cleared customs the last time I checked.
That means I sould have it before next weekend! Yipii:coffee2:
It cleared customs Friday after 1 pm so I'm hoping to pick it up today, tomorrow at the latest. I'm as eager as you are, Ulf! :thumblef:
While continuing disassembling under the hood some newly models of bolts were found. I have only seen black phosphated bolts holding the battery tray. This car had silver cad bolts!! This car is untouched and never been apart. Assembled in Detroit.
Anyone seen that before?
Anyone seen that before?
After searching mid sixties car magazines I found out that early 65 A-body racers used 13 inch wheels and later 65 A-body racers used 14 inch wheels.
With my 273, automatic tranny w/2200 stall speed converter and 3,55 in the rear end, what size on the tires should I have?
:coffee2:
With my 273, automatic tranny w/2200 stall speed converter and 3,55 in the rear end, what size on the tires should I have?
:coffee2:
I always thought the battery tray was painted at the same time as the engine compartment. So wouldn't the bolts have been body color? They may be been black phosphate or silver cad depending on the assembly plate/supplier, or whatever was on hand underneath the paint, etc.
Or am I missing something here?
I don't know what size you'll need but figure you be using an old style bias ply tire. My guess for tire size is something like the 6.95x14 or 7.25 or 7.75 x14.
Don! You're right. What I have found out is that the barttery tray should be mounted bofore the paint process. However, sometimes when it was rush-hour on the line the assembly line personall just threw it inside the car to have it either painted later as a lose part of it was mounted black. I have seen both. If tray was mounted on the car it should be the same color as the car. Then the bolts should been painted too. But if it was painted before or mounted black the bolts should be black phosphated. But these ones was silver cad and I have never seen it before. Might have been a change in supplier, "took what they have" on the line or differences between the different plants.
I have checked all the sites but this is what I came up with in 13 and 14 inch. Might use just old bias ply tires to have it look old. But then I don't have any traction at all! :burnout:
Hey Ulf, did you get my text? Your package is on its way!
I guess if you want the Dart to "look" as it would have back in the day, then bias ply tires would be the way to go (but limited traction :wack
. Otherwise, then a modern drag radial will give you the traction. Or if you're not going to drive it on the street, how about slicks?
I don't think 14" small bolt wheels were available until 1966.
Weren't 14" SBP wheels (6.95 x 14 tires) available on the 65 Formula S? Now Darts, that's a different question!
I know that in May of 1965 dealer installed disc brakes was availible for A-bodies. I have a notice in a Chrysler factory newspaper. But I'm pretty sure that during year 1965 the 14" rims was introduced.
Hey Ulf....long time no see.
Regarding your exhaust system I'll just throw this out there.
I'm sure you know that the early A's (and 67) Commando cars came with a 2 into 1 exhaust system that exited through a rectangular-shaped resonator through the rear lower valance. What about if you did a similar thing and ran dual 2-1/4" or 2-1/2" pipes from the exhaust headers into a 3" "Y" feeding a single good flowing 3" muffler. One single exhaust from there to a rectangular exhaust outlet similar in looks to the stock hi-po system.
It still keeps that original Mopar vibe but performs better. The early A's were not really set up for dual exhaust anyway and this might make it easier. If you still want to run an electric cutout, you would only need one.
My son has a similar system on his Dakota 5.9 R/T. At 4000+ pounds it runs 13.7's with only bolt-ons, all motor through the muffler.
Regarding your exhaust system I'll just throw this out there.
I'm sure you know that the early A's (and 67) Commando cars came with a 2 into 1 exhaust system that exited through a rectangular-shaped resonator through the rear lower valance. What about if you did a similar thing and ran dual 2-1/4" or 2-1/2" pipes from the exhaust headers into a 3" "Y" feeding a single good flowing 3" muffler. One single exhaust from there to a rectangular exhaust outlet similar in looks to the stock hi-po system.
It still keeps that original Mopar vibe but performs better. The early A's were not really set up for dual exhaust anyway and this might make it easier. If you still want to run an electric cutout, you would only need one.
My son has a similar system on his Dakota 5.9 R/T. At 4000+ pounds it runs 13.7's with only bolt-ons, all motor through the muffler.
Howdy! That's a good idea. Like a giant factory resonator. But I'm more into building the car like a mid sixties race car. I want a rough idle and a loudy sound. That why I'm going with Spitfire headers. You shall see the ends of the headers pipe like you could back in the day.
But I already transfrered the idea to a friend of mine. He liked it!
Don and Anders! Thanks for the help. The camshaft showed up today. Now I can start assemble the camshaft and the gear drive.
:burnout:
[Q,UOTE=KosmicKuda;1971014624]Hey Ulf....long time no see.
Regarding your exhaust system I'll just throw this out there.
I'm sure you know that the early A's (and 67) Commando cars came with a 2 into 1 exhaust system that exited through a rectangular-shaped resonator through the rear lower valance. What about if you did a similar thing and ran dual 2-1/4" or 2-1/2" pipes from the exhaust headers into a 3" "Y" feeding a single good flowing 3" muffler. One single exhaust from there to a rectangular exhaust outlet similar in looks to the stock hi-po system.
It still keeps that original Mopar vibe but performs better. The early A's were not really set up for dual exhaust anyway and this might make it easier. If you still want to run an electric cutout, you would only need one.
My son has a similar system on his Dakota 5.9 R/T. At 4000+ pounds it runs 13.7's with only bolt-ons, all motor through the muffler.[/QUOTE]
But I already transfrered the idea to a friend of mine. He liked it!
Don and Anders! Thanks for the help. The camshaft showed up today. Now I can start assemble the camshaft and the gear drive.
:burnout:
[Q,UOTE=KosmicKuda;1971014624]Hey Ulf....long time no see.
Regarding your exhaust system I'll just throw this out there.
I'm sure you know that the early A's (and 67) Commando cars came with a 2 into 1 exhaust system that exited through a rectangular-shaped resonator through the rear lower valance. What about if you did a similar thing and ran dual 2-1/4" or 2-1/2" pipes from the exhaust headers into a 3" "Y" feeding a single good flowing 3" muffler. One single exhaust from there to a rectangular exhaust outlet similar in looks to the stock hi-po system.
It still keeps that original Mopar vibe but performs better. The early A's were not really set up for dual exhaust anyway and this might make it easier. If you still want to run an electric cutout, you would only need one.
My son has a similar system on his Dakota 5.9 R/T. At 4000+ pounds it runs 13.7's with only bolt-ons, all motor through the muffler.[/QUOTE]
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