1965 Dodge Dart Charger

-
After going through all my plastic and rubber plugs I'm missing one of the plugs that goes beside the mouning brackets for the front bucket seats.

I could use three of them but they gotta be in mint condition. I know John wants a set as well!
 

Attachments

  • 008.JPG
    134.5 KB · Views: 649
  • 007.JPG
    115.9 KB · Views: 628
After cleaning and polishing the plastic and rubber plugs I was able to get a set in mint condition. But two plugs are missing! On the inside of the rear quarter panel behind the wheel is a plastic plug about 6 inch inwards. I don't know how it looks so if someone has a picture of it it would be great help so I know what to search for!

Re the ignition switch I have been searching what model to use. I have one model from week 28 of 1964 and one model from week 22 of 1965.This means that sometimes during this time there was a change in the manufacturer or the model. Does anyone has one from late December of 1964 or early weeks of 1965 so I can figure out the model?

Thanks for any help. :coffee2:
 

Attachments

  • 003.JPG
    125.6 KB · Views: 633
  • 001.JPG
    114.9 KB · Views: 644
  • 002.JPG
    98.6 KB · Views: 591
Where is the date code on them? I grabbed one I had in a kitchen drawer (without the tumbler mechanism in it) and didn't see any numbers on the exterior. It look like the one on the left.
 
Where is the date code on them? I grabbed one I had in a kitchen drawer (without the tumbler mechanism in it) and didn't see any numbers on the exterior. It look like the one on the left.

Don!

I checked both ignition switches and the date code is at the top as the picture show. I was able to find a nice switch with date code 284 meaning week 28 of 1964. Getting closer!
 

Attachments

  • 005.JPG
    84.4 KB · Views: 592
  • 004.JPG
    115.1 KB · Views: 609
The one I was looking at had "RBM" in the same place as the date code in yours. Wonder what the RBM means?
 
The one I was looking at had "RBM" in the same place as the date code in yours. Wonder what the RBM means?

Strange that the date code was not in place! RBM was the manufacturer of the ignition switch, the horn relay, light switch, hi/lo switch on floor. According to slantsixdan they was bought buy another company.

Magnet Wire History (Essex)




Essex Group began in 1930, when businessman Addison Holton formed the Essex Wire Corporation in Detroit. Essex leased 125,000 square feet of a Ford Motor Company plant and 700 Essex employees began making Model A wiring harnesses, battery cables and other insulated wire products. Essex soon expanded by purchasing the RBM Manufacturing Company in Logansport, IN, which made electrical switches and other automotive components.

In 1932, Essex acquired an Indiana rubber insulation plant in Jonesboro that was famous for its Paranite® brand of building wire.

In 1936, Essex entered the magnet wire manufacturing business by acquiring a vacant industrial complex that had formerly been the Dudlo Manufacturing Company in Fort Wayne, IN. Dudlo was the originator of the modern magnet wire enameling process.

By the 1940s, Essex was producing enough magnet wire to build the millions of transformers used by America and its allies during World War II. Essex plants also produced thousands of miles of field telephone wire for the Army Signal Corps, as well as wiring harnesses for B-24 bombers. Later, Essex was awarded the highly prestigious "E" Award by the Secretary of War.

In 1954, the corporate headquarters was moved to Fort Wayne and by 1965 Essex Wire had grown sales to $355 million with 44 plants in North America. That year, Essex Wire Corporation offered its stock on the New York Stock Exchange for the first time.

In 1974, with nearly 100 plants and sales of three-quarters of a billion dollars, Essex merged with a subsidiary of United Aircraft, later to become United Technologies Corporation.

In 1988, an investor group, including Essex management, took Essex into private ownership where the company continued to flourish. In 1992, Bessemer Holdings purchased a majority ownership in Essex and kept it under private ownership for the next five years.

During the 1990s, Essex greatly strengthened its manufacturing operations in terms of productivity and quality. The company also began an aggressive campaign of acquisitions. Its distribution business expanded significantly in 1995 when Essex acquired Brownell, a large distributor of magnet wire and electrical motors. The Brownell acquisition was absorbed into the Company's existing distribution business, which is now called Essex Brownell.

In 1998, Essex acquired Active Industries, a converter/fabricator of electrical insulation products used mainly by OEMs and motor repair shops. And, in 1997, Essex management once again took the company public on the New York Stock Exchange.
 
The last of the two front splash shield towards the engine id done. I had a super nice copy but with some issues but my friend Ronny managed to make a perfect copy for me. The paint process on it was dripp marks so they will be added!
 

Attachments

  • 005.JPG
    130.6 KB · Views: 575
  • 006.JPG
    127.3 KB · Views: 587
  • 007.JPG
    120.6 KB · Views: 573
After one coat of thin paint it looks like the assembly line ones! I was really satiesfied with it.

After searching for years I have found one left side rear inner splash shield. I also bought the super nice copy of the seals that goes against the fender. Looks sharp!

Problem is that I need the right side two. Now after years of searching I was ableto get a set of two front inner splash shields! If someone needs a left front one and want to trade against one NOS right rear inner splash shiëld that is fine with me!
 

Attachments

  • 004.JPG
    126.2 KB · Views: 542
  • 003.JPG
    126.3 KB · Views: 531
  • 002.JPG
    114.8 KB · Views: 521
  • 001.JPG
    120.5 KB · Views: 551
I have a NOS rear shield but can't remember which side it's for. I'll chrck when I get home.
 
The ash tray was painted the same color as the instrument panel. However it only have spray dust inside!

I'm missing the Contact that goes on the wiring forthe turn signal switch inside the steering column. Anyone have one for sale? Must be mint condition.

While doing the package of glass I found out that the date codes and print was just on one side of the glass. So rear side glass is same on both sides and door glass the same as well.
 

Attachments

  • 040.JPG
    113.7 KB · Views: 493
  • 029.JPG
    129.4 KB · Views: 501
  • 028.JPG
    112.5 KB · Views: 509
  • 026.JPG
    129 KB · Views: 494
  • 027.JPG
    125.2 KB · Views: 492
I was able to find a set of Cragar center caps for the early Cragar Wheels. But my friend Don (65 dartman) helped me to buy it so when it arrives here me and a friend of mine Johan will check out if we can grind out some material for the center badges! Hopefully it will work.

Thanks Don!
 

Attachments

  • $(KGrHqJHJEMFBs(4c3S5BQci5,P7-w~~60_12.jpg
    52.9 KB · Views: 415
Got an email from the seller that they will ship tomorrow and should be delivered abour Thurs. Hope they will be what you need.
 
Those new Cragar center caps are not exactly like your originals. Your original center caps should not have the small, circled "R" for registered trade mark.
 
Those new Cragar center caps are not exactly like your originals. Your original center caps should not have the small, circled "R" for registered trade mark.

Your are right. But the center area should be recessed to allow the DartCharger badge with two pins to be mounted in that area.

But thank you for pointing it out.
 

Attachments

I have a NOS rear shield but can't remember which side it's for. I'll chrck when I get home.

The NOS rear shield is for the driver's side.

Thanks Don! Looking forward to the result. Did you find any of those seat buttoms?

I've put my hands on the ones that came off my Dart. I could have sworn I had a couple of extras. I'll do some more searching when I have a day off.
 
After I got back the front inner splash shield I found out that there is a lot of stress from the stamping process of the shield.

Paint and some rubber seals will do this one. One to go!
 

Attachments

  • 002.JPG
    76.6 KB · Views: 427
  • 001.JPG
    101.9 KB · Views: 434
The paint guys, Michael and Togga, called today and ask me to stop by. When I got there the red paint was sanded down on some areas and the fenders were added on. But the biggest thing was about that greenish primer. We all know that the body came on a conveyor to the bathincl the dipping process.

Most of the primer when checking on unrestored cars were seen on the underside of the spare wheel place. And that must have been dueto body going up and the body was tilted backwards.

After a closer examination on one of my unrestored fenders from a 1965 Dart assembeld at the Los Angeles plant we found out that the inside of the mountingarea toward the inner fender was painted green. I checked when I got back home and found out that the body itself must have been sprayed separately with that greenish primer. That means that the whole undercarrige was painted with that primer!

WHen Michael closer cleaned the area on the fender to check out the color of that greenish primer we found out that the fenders were painted while standing! We found evedence of several drippings on that area.

ON Monday they will get the body back in that red primer, on Tuesday the masking will be for the greenish primer and on Wednesday the primer will be shot! :happy1:

On Friday they want me to come down and mount the front fenders and do all the body sealer before the final paint!

The week after that the final paint will be shot and hopefully the assembly of the car can begin! But wee'll see what happens!
 

Attachments

  • unnamed.jpg
    15.4 KB · Views: 376
  • new one.jpg
    47.5 KB · Views: 390
After the glass beading and a shot of new paint the splash shield looks like new. I did mount the seals that I bought from Detroit Musclecar Technologies and it looks like assembly line stuff. The products that DMT does is super great. What a quality! I can highly recommend them.

My friend Jorgen sent me two ignition switches. Produced week 364 and 095 which means that the old style ignition switch was manufactured in early 1965. The change must have been in spring of 65.

While was heading home from work yesterday I stopped by the paintshop and picked up a spray can with Pearl White. I will use that paint for the seat hinge covers.

I tried on on of the cracked ones and the result was great. However I shot some paint on a blue/black one too and the result was not OK!!

I need to get some kind of white primer on it before I shot the pearl white coat.
 

Attachments

  • 008.JPG
    103.5 KB · Views: 396
  • 007.JPG
    122.6 KB · Views: 383
  • 006.JPG
    86.9 KB · Views: 393
  • 003.JPG
    81.2 KB · Views: 378
  • 001.JPG
    120.2 KB · Views: 382
I was able to find a set of Cragar center caps for the early Cragar Wheels. But my friend Don (65 dartman) helped me to buy it so when it arrives here me and a friend of mine Johan will check out if we can grind out some material for the center badges! Hopefully it will work.

Thanks Don!

Got an email from the seller that they will ship tomorrow and should be delivered abour Thurs. Hope they will be what you need.

The box arrived in the mail today. I'll PM you with further info.
 
Thanks Don for all your help!

Today I spent 10 hours on the seat hinge covers and this is the way they turned out. Two of them were blue and I primered them with gloss white. I'm not sure if they will have the same white pearl color!¨

Keith! This is the way the locking strip looks like!
 

Attachments

  • 030.JPG
    100 KB · Views: 342
  • 028.JPG
    94.1 KB · Views: 341
  • 029.JPG
    96.5 KB · Views: 365
  • 027.JPG
    98.4 KB · Views: 371
Here are the pics I just took Ulf, it appears to be around 10 feet or so, but I can measure it if you like. The chrome finish is shiny and looks new, also has a "ribbed" pattern for that factory look. There is some areas where the chrome layer is peeling up a little on the back side but very minor, also some lines that are mostly on the outer edges that may not be seen when installed, I assume this is from being rolled up in the bag for all these years. It may also disappear when the strip is pulled tight and installed. The rubber is very flexible and would install nice, not all stiff. Is this the correct stuff for your car? I hope so :glasses7:
 

Attachments

  • DSC00124.jpg
    55 KB · Views: 333
  • DSC00125.jpg
    66.2 KB · Views: 333
  • DSC00126.jpg
    40.3 KB · Views: 329
  • DSC00128.jpg
    48.1 KB · Views: 325
  • DSC00127.jpg
    42.5 KB · Views: 328
  • DSC00129.jpg
    19.6 KB · Views: 324
  • DSC00130.jpg
    29.1 KB · Views: 328
  • DSC00131.jpg
    41.3 KB · Views: 323
  • DSC00132.jpg
    31.9 KB · Views: 330
Looks like a nice piece Keith. Windshield lockstrip?

Thanks, it is a locking strip, should be for the 64-65 cars, 66 is different....not sure if this is for the front or rear window, might even do both. Does the 64-66 Dart have locking strip on the rear window or just the front? The Valiant's and Cuda's have them front and rear. I really hope Ulf can use this, it would be another piece of the puzzle to help him complete his car :glasses7:
 
My 66 has it on the front only. The rear has a chrome molding around the glass. I am sure 64&5's are the same. tmm
 

Attachments

  • 014.jpg
    72.6 KB · Views: 314
-
Back
Top