jedrattle
Well-Known Member
Looks great! Have you driven it yet? What model did the steering come from?
1965 MMP's Barracuda Hemi swap! The Ever Changing Build
- Thread starter MonkeyMadness
- Start date
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Looks great! Have you driven it yet? What model did the steering come from?
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
I am seriously leaning towards the EPS setups now. If i can find a really good thread that details this for a 67-69 A body column i may just do this. I heard toyota yaris is the smallest one that will fit.
Wow that was time...
Back and looking to make some progress.
Pulled the motor and trans lastnight.
Gotta swap the head gaskets to a more boost friendly gasket.
Was looking into sending the trans out for rebuild, that's was until i got a few quotes, $2200 to $1600. Guess what I'm doing next
Yep cracking it open, placing and order for a master rebuild kit performance "2" Grrr...
Also got my heater box rebuilt and ready to go. Acquired the needed heater controls. So thats set and done. (pictures not included)
Also while day dreaming about a much needed drive in this car I decided I'd keep a bit of old school touch along with my stock shifter and now that i have the epas unit I bought an old Fury GT wheel that i fell in love with... no its not year correct. Nope not a tuff wheel like everyone else. But hey who gives a **** I like it and its staying.
Back and looking to make some progress.
Pulled the motor and trans lastnight.
Gotta swap the head gaskets to a more boost friendly gasket.
Was looking into sending the trans out for rebuild, that's was until i got a few quotes, $2200 to $1600. Guess what I'm doing next
Yep cracking it open, placing and order for a master rebuild kit performance "2" Grrr...
Also while day dreaming about a much needed drive in this car I decided I'd keep a bit of old school touch along with my stock shifter and now that i have the epas unit I bought an old Fury GT wheel that i fell in love with... no its not year correct. Nope not a tuff wheel like everyone else. But hey who gives a **** I like it and its staying.
Keith Mopar
Mopar Nut
Great progress, I'm amazed you got it all out with the rad still in place!
right.. I've pulled it soo often I've gotten really good at pulling it in and out with out issue. This will all change once I get the front of the engine on belt n pulleys and stuff...
Hey MM. the hardest thing to put back together on that tranny is getting that shift rod in the right place in the O.D. Unit . When you assemble the O.D. Unit it self all the clutch plates have to line up so use the input shaft to line up all the guts , there easy nothing oddball , have fun looking foward to progress picks.
So just purchased a rebuild kit for this 46RE and I got "all the bells and whistles".
Now I have to build a simple press tool for the over drive and reverse spring and "c" clips.
the damn thing is under 640+ lbs of pressure ugh...
I found a lot of vids on youtube showing how to rebuild this. One in particular is a School or factory tech series of vids on the complete tear down an rebuild of this transmission. He talks real and points out everything so dummies like me can even follow. It's not too much different from the 727 / 904
So i feeling pretty confidant about it right now.
Now I have to build a simple press tool for the over drive and reverse spring and "c" clips.
the damn thing is under 640+ lbs of pressure ugh...
I found a lot of vids on youtube showing how to rebuild this. One in particular is a School or factory tech series of vids on the complete tear down an rebuild of this transmission. He talks real and points out everything so dummies like me can even follow. It's not too much different from the 727 / 904
So i feeling pretty confidant about it right now.
Take the overdrive unit and the rebuild parts for it to a tranny shop. They have the tools to do the job and they can do it quickly.
belmateo
Well-Known Member
Have you decided how you are going to switch on the overdrive and lock up the converter?
Yes. I'm not running the "RH" trans, I have the "RE" everything is elc. controlled. I'm running the OBD2 fueling injection w/ harness and trans control. All will be tuned by Ryan at Flyin Ryan Performance, He'll be setting fuel map and shift points as well as lock converter and overdrive.
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JDMopar
Well-Known Member
Everything's looking good. Did the Saturn EPS clear the wiper linkage more than it looks like it does? Pics can be deceiving...lol. Don't let that OD spring bust your brains out!
Haha right. Thats my biggest worry at the moment. In the midst of building a compression tool to use with the press. Bit of welding and I'm done.
Edit: @JDMopar to answer your question, Yes it clears the wipers unit and movement fine. Remember though I'm not using the stock parking brake and with that removed I was allotted a lot more room just to the left of the unit allowing me to rotate it more to the left allowing for the room around the wiper transmission and arms
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Worked like a charm...
Master rebuild kit should be here tomorrow.
Master rebuild kit should be here tomorrow.
Some people just have all the ingenuity... lol
JDMopar
Well-Known Member
Wow....that thing is slicker'n cat poop on linoleum....lol. Isn't there a big snap ring that holds the OD part together? I just know that the guy who used to rebuild Torqueflites for me was scared to death of those springs...lol. Good idea on the E brake mechanism. Are you going to use a foot pedal, or a hand thing on the hump? I'm going to use an E body foot pedal in my 70 Duster.
Yes the first one ( 1 ) lower snap ring is the clutch pack for the over drive and the second one ( 2 ) is the inner planetary spring snap ring.
As for the e-brake i was planning on using a line lock setup for the rear with a dash mounted dial/switch maybe?
JDMopar
Well-Known Member
Gotcha on the snap rings, I see now! We used to have an electric setup for holding the brakes on some of our service bucket trucks at work. It was called a Mico Brake. You held the brakes down, and flipped a switch on the dash, and it locked the back brakes down. Worked really well, but if you left it parked like that for a long time, it would drain the battery because the switch must have kept using voltage to hold the solenoid closed to keep the brakes applied. Way back in the day, we had an earlier version of the Mico Brake that you just pumped the brakes up tight and then closed a valve, and it held the brakes hydraulically. Keep up the good work!
Made some good progress this weekend. I was able to fully rebuild the over drive unit, swap the out put shaft for a one with a speedo drive and now prepped for the press. I also completely torn down the case and parts ready for rebuild. Once I have the OD unit finish I can start the main unit rebuild.
belmateo
Well-Known Member
Looking good, the rebuild is pretty straight forward as long as you do not open the valve body.
So got the overdrive planetary and spring pack finished. I can now drop the OD unit in the tail housing and finish that end. Which means I will be starting the rebuild/ assembly of the main case, But to do that I needed a trans stand to hold the case upright to drop in the gut of the tranny. This dude online shows how to build it out of 2x4 and it turned out pretty good. I'm 6'4" soo it could have been a bit taller to save my back but what ever.. lol
Crap.. I forgot to take more pictures last night only got the one. I'll take more tonight. I might have the internals finished tonight as well. Now I'm thinking since I'm in here and not interested in opening this back up, maybe I should install a shift kit with the rest of the upgrades I have already done to this trans.?
Well I got the OD finished and OD servo rebuilt, front and rear cases are matched. "inner-output" shaft, new reverse band, and drum installed. I've replaced all the servos and band actuators with built upgrades, new bands. Tonight I'll try and finish the guts ( 1/2/3/R) of the trans.
ugh only picture I took last night....
Well I got the OD finished and OD servo rebuilt, front and rear cases are matched. "inner-output" shaft, new reverse band, and drum installed. I've replaced all the servos and band actuators with built upgrades, new bands. Tonight I'll try and finish the guts ( 1/2/3/R) of the trans.
ugh only picture I took last night....
Could you post some links to the most helpful of the videos you've found please? I think I will be needing to do this, and I'm tired of having to sort through 4 or 5 bullshit videos to actually find one that is actually helpful for each of the projects I've tackled.So just purchased a rebuild kit for this 46RE and I got "all the bells and whistles".
Now I have to build a simple press tool for the over drive and reverse spring and "c" clips.
the damn thing is under 640+ lbs of pressure ugh...
I found a lot of vids on youtube showing how to rebuild this. One in particular is a School or factory tech series of vids on the complete tear down an rebuild of this transmission. He talks real and points out everything so dummies like me can even follow. It's not too much different from the 727 / 904
So i feeling pretty confidant about it right now.
View attachment 1715361211
Sure thing!
Here is the youtube page: Transmission Bench
and this is the start to the 46re Build:
I watched the whole video set/class before I started my build. Made it super easy and understood everything. I also had/have my laptop in the garage while building and just kinda follow along with my build. make it soo easy even a caveman can do it!
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Ok you are officially my Hero.
I've never tried a auto, but I may now
I've never tried a auto, but I may now
Okay so was busy this weekend but managed to get some good time in the garage working on the trans build.
finished up the main case without issue although I did find one issue with the trans. It had been rebuilt once before. The case, original over drive unit and the valve body are all "99" but the 2nd to 3rd clutch pack was "03" clutches (much thicker in size) which made it very hard to shift if it shifted at all the clutch pack needs a huge gap at the ring something like .098" where the pack i found in the pack was so tight on the C-clip I had a bit of an issue removing it.
The correct friction plate (olive green) vs. Incorrect friction plate (reddish in color / thicker)
Picture is of proper tolerance
This discovery lead me to probe a bit more in the trans. I was on the fence about a shift kit as well as ******* with the valve body at all. Well I ended up buying a shift kit and all new electrical parts (servos and inner harness)
Also ordered a speedo sending unit with a 37 tooth gear. I got this not cause the gauge clutch speedo, but the OB2 efi harness has two speed sensors one off the over drive drum and on off the out put shaft gear drive..
So I pulled the valve body apart and found a few thing wrong. I'm soo glad I did too. first off the emulation spring was broken (New one in shift kit) and I also found one of the "valve to spring" 1 of 9 or so in the valve body was in its place but installed backwards. Again soo glad I went through it..
Everything other than those few problems was fine. I rebuild and replaced all wear-able parts in the transmission. Installed the shift kit. should have a more performance oriented shift as well as a firmer over drive and firmer converter lockup.
finished up the main case without issue although I did find one issue with the trans. It had been rebuilt once before. The case, original over drive unit and the valve body are all "99" but the 2nd to 3rd clutch pack was "03" clutches (much thicker in size) which made it very hard to shift if it shifted at all the clutch pack needs a huge gap at the ring something like .098" where the pack i found in the pack was so tight on the C-clip I had a bit of an issue removing it.
The correct friction plate (olive green) vs. Incorrect friction plate (reddish in color / thicker)
Picture is of proper tolerance
This discovery lead me to probe a bit more in the trans. I was on the fence about a shift kit as well as ******* with the valve body at all. Well I ended up buying a shift kit and all new electrical parts (servos and inner harness)
Also ordered a speedo sending unit with a 37 tooth gear. I got this not cause the gauge clutch speedo, but the OB2 efi harness has two speed sensors one off the over drive drum and on off the out put shaft gear drive..
So I pulled the valve body apart and found a few thing wrong. I'm soo glad I did too. first off the emulation spring was broken (New one in shift kit) and I also found one of the "valve to spring" 1 of 9 or so in the valve body was in its place but installed backwards.
Again soo glad I went through it..Everything other than those few problems was fine. I rebuild and replaced all wear-able parts in the transmission. Installed the shift kit. should have a more performance oriented shift as well as a firmer over drive and firmer converter lockup.
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