1965 Valiant brake woes

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Well, the distribution block seems to be lost in the mail. While I'm waiting for it, can I get some clarification on swapping the prop valve for a distribution block?



I contacted Inline Tube and they told me to use part # BLK243. This factory-style distribution block is for 1965-66 Mopar A-, B-, and C-bodies converted to a dual-reservoir master cylinder with disc or drum brakes. Includes frame mounting bracket.
The prop valve has one IN for front and one OUT for front. There must be a tee or splitter underneath the car somewhere, but I can't see it without the car being on a lift. It has the same for the rear; one IN and one OUT, going to the rear of the car.
A friend with a '65 Barracuda swears I need a 5 hole distribution block.
Can anyone confirm whether this is what I need or not?

**EDIT: The BLK243 IS a 5 hole block. I now have the parts needed to get rid of the mismatched parts ... hopefully.**


prop valve.jpg

proportioning valve.jpg

distribution block.png
 
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scott_s said:
I stated in the first post why I started another thread.
To get more eyes on it. To get advice on not making the best of a bad situation, which is what the other post was about, but on which direction to go now.

- Remove the power brake stuff and proportioning valve and try to get the stock drums working? If so, what to do about a pushrod, distribution block, etc.
- Throw in the towel and ditch it all forward of the firewall and go for discs?
Click to expand...
If it were me, I would ditch all of the aftermarket stuff, get a manual drum/drum master for a 69 Dart, which is the same unit as manual disc, and go back to the stock setup. The pushrod would be easy to source right here, I have a couple laying around. This is exactly why I prefer the factory setup on things, with aftermarket stuff you just get too far from the barn to make sense of it all. When it’s factory, or near factory, you can use the service manual, source stock parts from here or most auto parts stores, and avoid the hokey pokey of some other less informed shade tree mechanic that couldn’t get it right either. Sorry to hear that you’re struggling, as Mopar brakes are so easy to work on, but as you’ve found out, those pets are not Mopar, or probably not even compatible with your stock drums.
 
That's what I'm doing. I just wanted to make sure that distribution block was what I needed.
 
I have an appointment next Tuesday to get all the stock brake stuff swapped over, but I noticed something this morning.
The master cylinder that's being removed has the brake switch on the side. The '68 style doesn't have a port for a brake switch. What's the workaround for this?

brake switch 1.jpg

brake switch.jpg


raybestos mc.jpg
 
scott_s said:
The master cylinder that's being removed has the brake switch on the side. The '68 style doesn't have a port for a brake switch. What's the workaround for this?
Click to expand...
that's a pressure style brake switch. the stock brake switch is electric and activated off the brake pedal arm. there should be a bracket on the swing pedal frame assembly that the switch snaps into.

if you're lucky, the stuff is all still there and all you need to do is connect wires. or maybe sort out a little wiring.

another option, which i totally hate is throwing a T in the line with an adapter and running a pressure switch there.
 
junkyardhero said:
that's a pressure style brake switch. the stock brake switch is electric and activated off the brake pedal arm. there should be a bracket on the swing pedal frame assembly that the switch snaps into.

if you're lucky, the stuff is all still there and all you need to do is connect wires. or maybe sort out a little wiring.

another option, which i totally hate is throwing a T in the line with an adapter and running a pressure switch there.
Click to expand...

Whew! Luckily, the switch on the pedal is still there! I can see where they pulled the wires through the firewall. Hopefully, this won't be a big deal.
 
I got the Valiant back today and it FINALLY has brakes that inspire confidence and not a pucker factor.
Got rid of the leaking power booster and proportioning valve (the shop thinks the prop valve was plumbed wrong, too).
Installed a distribution block and manual drum/drum master.
I've only driven it home from the shop so far, but MAN what a difference. A tall, firm pedal that I can modulate. No longer pulling to one side. Etc.
467267480_10227609936260072_2412965411724620961_n.jpg
467406576_10227609933540004_4821252138811686016_n.jpg
 
I'd take all that crap out and set it up stock as a 67 with a dual chamber manual master cylinder. My wagon and my 66 vert and every other valiant I ever had got set up like this and always worked well with either 9 or 10 inch brakes .There is a member here ,I think he is called mobile parts .He's local to me here in LI , NY . He sells the good ,imposible to find asbestos lined shoes. When I put those in my car was 1000% better. I can lock up all 4 wheels with 9 in drums now. With the modern shoes it barely stopped and forget locking up the wheels.
 
I'm glad you're happy with going back to the stock setup. I redid the breaks on my '63 with a single chamber MC and the results were more than satisfactory so far.

Did you (or your shop) get the brake lights working with the brake pedal - brake light switch?
 
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