1966 Valiant Signet Convertible Resto

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flyboy01 said:
Good job, welcome to the "RIGGIT" paint club. :-D
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Yep it's rigged alright. I finally got to paint today for the first time. Pulling that trigger was damn fun too. This Iwata gun makes newbs like me look halfway descent without knowing anything hardly. Here are the results of the day. I'm super happy with how well my filler work turned out. I think a few coats of high build will make things perfect. The problems spots are near the welded trim holes by the rockers.`

Bare metal was scuffed with 80 grit and the filler was sanded with 180. I cleaned ) the heck out of the doors with W/G remover and 50/50 isopropyl-water mix 1 hour before shooting and tacked just before painting with SPI Epoxy. I got good coverage on the first coat but went ahead and added another after 40-45 minute flash time. Air temp in the garage was 68. Metal temp was 70-72 since I had the doors in the sun this morning for cleaning. Humidity was 50%

Gun settings Iwata lph-400 silver cap 1.4 tip
100psi at the wall
25psi at the gun
fluid 2 1/2 turns out
fan wide open then 3/4 turns in
4-6" from panel


It looks pretty good with very slight orange peel up close. The thing that looks bad is all the little specs. I imagine these are dust particles because they showed up as soon as the paint hit the panel. I'll have to work on this issue and the very slight peel

Thanks,

Dave

Here are the pics
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Allright Dave!!! That orange peel can be sanded/buffed out. Since you aren't in an airtight spraybooth, dust will find its way in. The clear is where it will be fun....that is where fisheyes like to come out of the woodwork, but again they can get buffed out easily. Are you doing the norm of 3 coats paint, 3 coats clear?
 
Longgone said:
It`s good to see you back to the vert again Dave. Looking good, did you moisten the floor before spraying?
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No I did not wet the floor. Did a lot of reading on that issue and do not plan on wetting the floor. Too many potential issues. If I continue to have dust problems a may dampen/mist the floor some.

redfastback said:
Allright Dave!!! That orange peel can be sanded/buffed out. Since you aren't in an airtight spraybooth, dust will find its way in. The clear is where it will be fun....that is where fisheyes like to come out of the woodwork, but again they can get buffed out easily. Are you doing the norm of 3 coats paint, 3 coats clear?
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This was just the epoxy primer stage so orange peel is not that big a deal. Unreduced epoxy is usually harder to lay flat/slick anyways. The dust on the other hand is an issue I need to get better control of before I shoot base and clear.

The body work I did looks really good with the shiny black epoxy. The epoxy soaked into the filler but that is not a big deal either since it is getting high build primer.

I plan on 3 coats of basecoat or however many coats it takes to get full coverage with Midnight Metallic Blue.

I plan on 3 coats of clear, then I'll wet sand flat with 800, then I'll shoot 3 more coats of clear.

Total 6 coats of clear but at least 2 coats will be sanded off in the end. I'm going for the show car finish if I can accomplish it. I may take the car to a real booth when I get to the BC/CC stage, but renting a booth gets expensive.

Fenders on Saturday :cheers:
 
There might be two possible problems, one is that you used a paper towel and did not use a tack rag properly. There is no such thing as a low lint paper wipe/towel, dupont sontera seem to be the lowest, but you still have to tack properly. Open the tack rag up fully unfold it to where it is one single thin cloth, then ball it up, let it sit and warm up for 10 min, then wipe the panel down, always wipe in one direction, dont double back. Do this before you spray, no more than 10 min. (Unless you are spraying filler primer, then dont worry about it because that stuff sets up so fast, you will hardly have time to spray and clean your gun) Buy a box of tack rags, and dont be cheap with them, dont use one more than once (unless you are doing bodywork, then it dont matter)

Also, plastic sheeting lover to pick up dust because of a static charge, the air from your gun will blow it loose. I ended up having to wet down the plastic on the walls, and wet the floor. It just worked better that way. The humidity helps to slow down the drying of the clear, which helps it flow out better.
 
Here's what happened Fly

I turned the fans on after I did all the proper cleaning and tacking. With the fans on, the plastic bowed out and I think the dust that was on the ceiling plastic and on the walls kicked up onto the doors. I'm pretty sure this was it because everything else was good. The other thing, I should move my pieces away from the intake fan and closer to the exhaust side since my booth is more of a cross flow setup. Better air flow would be nice too.

At least this is what I determined so far. I'll know more after I shoot the fenders on Saturday.

I didn't know about letting the tack cloth warm up. I already have a box of them and have used them in the past for wood working projects.

Follow up will be soon.
 
My next step is to drywall the ceiling in my garage, then it will make a better paintbooth. Fo this car, I am mostly done, I have just the engine bay to paint, which I am doing in single stage (easier to touch up) and the trunk (I am doing this after I do the mini-tub). Plastic works good, but I learned my lesson early on, you have to wash it down before you paint, or the dust will go everywhere.

Here is a little motivation:
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I changed my booth around today and I think it performs much much better.

I sprayed 3 coats of regular gray primer on the doors today.

I got a bad batch of epoxy so I could not do the fenders today. I should have a new batch early next week. Free of charge :) I gotta tell you guys SPI paints are awesome.

Bad picture but looking good. Can't wait to get it blocked out to perfection.

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Alright. Been moving right along. I got the fenders and hood ironed out over the weekend. My arms are jello now. Sealed all the filler work with more SPI epoxy. This time everything came out damn near perfect. Little to no trash on the fenders and just a tiny amount on the hood since it was laying flat. Minimal really. I'm pretty happy at this point. I'll be shooting the Polyester Primer on Thursday, then it's back to more block sanding and primer. Looking forward to getting some color on this car.

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Dave your doing a fine job!I,m more into the wrenching thing now,swapping 6 to 8 now,on my 66 Dart.This should be fun!
 
The swap should be fun. Hope everything goes well for ya petty
 
DAVE ok so you were a body and fender man in another life time,,when your done you are going to have to write a manual of what you used,and step by step how too,,so when i get to the point where i am able to take the fish apart,,i can make it look almost as good as your valiant is going to look,,,cant wait to see more updates on this topic,,
 
Thanks for the compliments. I'm no expert. Just taking my time and doing things right. I bought good tools and products which is key IMO. Doesn't hurt to be meticulous as possible too. I spend countless hours reading and studying up on bodywork and paint. It has really paid dividends so far.

I may do a follow up first timers DIY how-to-paint if things turn out the way I like. I'm sure Russell will be a good critic at the Fall Fling. :)
 
daves66valiant said:
I may do a follow up first timers DIY how-to-paint if things turn out the way I like. I'm sure Russell will be a good critic at the Fall Fling. :)
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Yes I will, Hey my Duster was the first car I painted..15 yrs ago.The job your doing Dave is excellent. When I redo the Duster, I'm gonna strip her like you did the valiant. Then I can replace the hole in the roof with a fresh skin. She'll get repainted the same color though. Love the home made booth. Like I said before, need any help just call, Russell
 
Shot the G2 Featherfill on the hood and fenders yesterday to fill the 80-180 grit scratches. I block sanded one fender today and it is nearly perfect. There is one tiny spot the size of a pea that needs a little filler primer. Tht will be taken care of when I do the primering anyways. :cheers:

Today I got the decklid prepped and shot the SPI black epoxy. Looks great. Will shot 2 coats of G2 Featherfill poly primer on Sunday. And will block out the hood and fenders. The doors are ready for final primering and blocking to 600. I'm on a roll now :toothy10:

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Until next time :salute:
 
rlk340 said:
looking good Dave, don't forget to use the balsa wood when you wet sand the clear.
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Yep I remember that one. I actually have one of those paint stick's from Lowe's that I cut for half sheets. I has held its shape for over a year now. I guess I'm due for a new one. A visit to the hobby shop may be fun.

I need to prep a spare door or something so I can practice with some silver base and the clear.
 
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