1967 Dodge Dart 270

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Lookin good.

Now just need to get her running good again and she'll be on the road. A part of me just wants to buy a new 1406 and call it a day but another part of me says "You won't beat me! I WILL fix you!" My wallet agrees with the second part.
 
Been doing more research and I know that my float level is off now. I installed the needle/seat with the springs intended for off road use and this changes the float level from 3/8" which is what it is set at, to 5/16". That will be change #1 come my next day off. I am just now starting to realize how much float level affects.
 
Almost forgot. I had to alter the 2 barrel kickdown linkage so it wouldn't bind. Not factory but it works. Started off hammering it straight-ish, then heated it to relieve the work hardening. Once cool, set it in the vice, heated the spot I wanted to bend and slowly worked it till it was where I wanted it to be. This is the finished product.
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Almost forgot. I had to alter the 2 barrel kickdown linkage so it wouldn't bind. Not factory but it works. Started off hammering it straight-ish, then heated it to relieve the work hardening. Once cool, set it in the vice, heated the spot I wanted to bend and slowly worked it till it was where I wanted it to be. This is the finished product.
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When I got my ‘67 the prior owner converted, poorly, to 4 barrel. The throttle and kickdown linkage was all jacked up. I just went with Lokar cables, but it’s great if you can fabricate and modify what you have to work.
 
I was looking at the Lokar cables myself but wanted to use that money for patching the replacing the torsion bar crossmember and patching the frame rails. Everything else is from a 340/360 4 barrel setup.
 
First cruise was pretty bad. idle and cruise were ok but accelerator pump and high speed circuits on the carb were causing it to fall on it's face. I picked up a calibration kit and a rebuild ket, then set it up as close to a performer 1406 as I could with what was in the kits. Also found a tear in the accelerator pump cup. Seems it was the wrong size. The one i used in the original rebuild was larger than the one that came in the Edelbrock rebuild kit, which fit's perfectly. Once I changed out the rods and jets, she drove much better. Though there is something loose in the front end. I need to check the passenger side out since we had to take it apart to install the headers and I was not the one who put it back together. She also still stumbles a bit going to WOT from about 30mph. Might need a longer accelerator pump shot. Still super happy with it though. =)
 
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To got it registered today, then took it to gas up. Turns out the sending unit was leaking from where the fuel feed tube comes out. It wasn't leaking badly but still ended up going to pick up a new one (will be here tomorrow) along with an electric pump to drain the tank enough to change the sending unit, and a third fuel can to catch what came out. should be able to install the new unit tomorrow. Then I will probably drive it to work on Friday. =) I also want to pick up an AFR auge so I can dial in the carb a bit better. She runs cool, About 160 degrees. Oil pressure is good and she get's up and goes, especially when the secondaries open up. =)
 
Replaced the sending unit last Thursday and drove her to work on Friday, then again on Tuesday. I have some bugs that need to be worked out. First, the fuel gauge doesn't work. Then the valve train is making noise. I will probably check that out this weekend. I am hoping it is something simple like you should go back over the preload after 50 miles or something like that. My last carb tune took it from really lean to a bit rich so I picked up an AFR gauge to help with further tuning. The biggest problem I have, and I am still researching how to approach this one is the transmission is starting out in second gear. Reverse works just fine and manual 1 still starts in second. I was not aware that you have to check the trans fluid level in neutral and have been checking it in park. I am hoping it is just a low level thing. If not then it is likely my 1-2 shift valve is stuck in the 2 position. That will be a "fun" fix. I am still tickled she is back on the road though. =) This is her in the parking lot at work last week.
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Great to see you driving the Dart. Rolling projects are a lot more fun. What brand sending unit did you go with? I’ve heard bad things about the “repro” sending units, and am considering just having my original reconditioned. It’s a lot more expensive however….
 
The brand is Precision and I picked it up from O'Reilly's. I have also heard bad things about the newer sending units so I got one with a lifetime warranty. Was about $85.
 
The brand is Precision and I picked it up from O'Reilly's. I have also heard bad things about the newer sending units so I got one with a lifetime warranty. Was about $85.

Well, please let me know how it works out for you. That’s almost 1/4th the cost I was looking at to redo the old unit. Like you (I’m guessing) I’m a working man on a budget, I appreciate saving a few bucks where I can. It means more can get done somewhere else on the project.
 
I am definitely a working man on a budget. Otherwise, it would have a 6.4L hemi, a TorqueFlite ZF 8HP70 8-speed automatic transmission, a QA1 Stage 3 handling suspension, an 8 3/4 rear end, and a full disk brake conversion in it already. Lol.
 
I am definitely a working man on a budget. Otherwise, it would have a 6.4L hemi, a TorqueFlite ZF 8HP70 8-speed automatic transmission, a QA1 Stage 3 handling suspension, an 8 3/4 rear end, and a full disk brake conversion in it already. Lol.
"anybody" could do that. Your way stands out as preservation of a time piece.
 
I am eyeballing a 413 RB with matching 727 for sale near here. :poke: I will probably rebuild it for my YouTube channel but not decided if I want to put it in the dart or not. would need a new rear end to do so. We'll see how things go once the child support stops in July.
 
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Well, sometimes you just gotta put your head down and focus on your project. No shooting videos, no internet updates, or friends over to help out. Did that this weekend. I have been having issues getting the engine running well. Rough and erratic idle, really high idle (850) I could not bring down through timing or without losing good tip-in, inconsistent timing, rough and really shaky/knocking cold starts, sluggish throttle response, idle mixture screws at 3 1/2 turns just to get it to start and more. Was convinced it was the rebuilt $85 ebay carb. It may still be a contributing factor as there is a vacuum leak (again) at the base and possibly the throttle valve shaft. I did reuse the gasket when I pulled it to change the jets. I have a new one that will go on before I take the car out again.

After several days researching on the internet (mostly here) I decided to revisit my ignition system. Well, I should say visit it. I never did anything with the distributor when I rebuilt the engine since it seemed to work fine on the run stand. So instead of refurbishing the dizzy, I upgraded to the Proform electronic ignition. That cleaned up a lot of my issues. Cold starts are much smoother. I was able to get the idle mixture screws back in to 2.5 turns with 15" of stable vacuum. Initial timing is a solid 12* with a 650 idle in park and 550 in drive. The throttle is WAY more responsive and it even got rid of most of my stumble from cruise to WOT. New coil is coming soon as well.

Next up, I will be installing an AFR gauge so I can really dial in the carb. I looked at the plugs and I am definitely still running lean, which surprised me. I figured I would be a bit rich. I want to see the AFR at each stage of operation and adjust the jets accordingly. I also need to troubleshoot the fuel gauge. I did some simple testing and found there is no signal on the sending unit wire. Should read 5v from the wire to ground so I am figuring I have an open somewhere as the gauge is always on empty. A ground on the line would cause it to read full.

Also need to troubleshoot the transmission. It is constantly starting out in second and wasn't kicking down when I got on the throttle. I did check the kickdown and discovered it was not going to the rear stop with the throttle on the floor so I fixed that quick. I also dropped a pint of Seafoam Trans Tune in it to clear out any gunk I may have missed when I did the rebuild. I did the air pressure tests when I rebuilt it but have not looked at fluid pressures yet. Initially it was not going into manual low but after about 50 miles with the trans tune in it, it goes into manual low now. I still need to test drive after the kickdown adjustment. Another thing I noticed is that the shift is super smooth. I miss the 2-3 shift if I am not paying attention. It shifts at pretty low RPM if I am not into the petal as well.

Much to do in the future. Want to rebuild the front end. It is pretty creaky when going around corners. Right strut bushing is shot too so it pulls right when braking(aleady checked the adjuster on the left side.) Also want to go in and rebuild the rear end and get new leaf springs. That SHOULD wrap up the "make sure it is mechanically sound" portion (without welding) and I can start of making her pretty.

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Well, please let me know how it works out for you. That’s almost 1/4th the cost I was looking at to redo the old unit. Like you (I’m guessing) I’m a working man on a budget, I appreciate saving a few bucks where I can. It means more can get done somewhere else on the project.

Just a follow up, The sending unit is working fairly well. I did run into an issue early on though. The plug on the end of my sending unit wire was bad so the gauge wasn't working. I cut the plug off and now I am getting the pulsed 6v signal at the unit. I then crimped a terminal loop to the wire and secured it to the stud with a second nut. As I was tightening the nut, the flimsy seal popped out of place and the next time I filled up, the tank was pissing gas. I ended up draining the tank, pulling the sending unit and tightening everything back down making sure the seal was in place. Leak fixed.

The fuel gauge still works whenever it feels like it though and is not quite accurate. Not sure if that is the gauge or the fact that the sending unit's resistance range is 10-80 ohms vice the 10-73 ohms that the gauge is expecting. I picked up an aftermarket gauge to test but haven't put it in yet. Before I add ANOTHER aftermarket gauge (have tach, oil pressure, water temp, and AFR gauge already), I will pull the dash and remove and clean the OE gauge and contacts on the PCB to see if that helps. We went on a trip the other day and the gauge said 1/4 tank so I stopped for fuel and instead of taking 12 gallons it took 6 so yeah.
 
We went on a trip the other day and the gauge said 1/4 tank so I stopped for fuel and instead of taking 12 gallons it took 6 so yeah
That is exactly what is wrong with aftermarket senders.

The tank is not rectangular, the guage is not liner either, the combination of the two makes the gauge read full for ever then 1/2 for a couple of gallons then 1/4 till it is empty. And at 1/4 it's really 1/2.

The 10 to 80 is not the issue it is the liner sweep of the sender.

I think I posted my chart earlier. About 23 ohms is 1/2 gauge the sender will show that at about 4 to 6 gallons down from full.


WORD OF CAUTION ANOUT THE GAUGES...
I have bought a number of clusters lately to get a couple good gauges to reace a toasted gauge in my cluster. I probably broke 2 maybe 3 gauges just trying to remove the speed nuts from the back

My recommendation is get 2 nuts and use them as jam nuts to hold the shaft of the gauge as you are loosening the speed nuts.
 
Been doing a lot of tuning work on the carb. Finally ditched the carter for a new edelbrock 1406. My fault really. I snapped off one of the screws when I was taking the throttle rod out. Forgot you need to grind the stakes out before you try to remove them. i got the screw replaced with one from the 2 barrel but didn't want to risk dropping one in the engine with the stakes ground off. I used blue locktite but still didn't want to risk it. It is car show season and I want her on the road. Trying to figure out the right combo of metering rods and jets to get her running efficiently. She's guzzling gas at the moment. Think I need to fiddle with my float adjustment too. I took it from 7/16" to 1/2" and will probably drop it another 16th tomorrow. I can watch the bowls fill up on the AFR gauge. about 14:1 till they fill, then it goes rich at about 11.5:1. I think the fuel level is flooding the idle circuit. No dribbles from the primaries but still pretty rich at idle. cruise is around 17:1 but kicks in too late, and part throttle acceleration is around 12.5:1. WOT is 10:1 so gonna put smaller jets in the secondaries as well. hope to get to that tomorrow before my 3rd car show of the year. I was a bit apprehensive about the first one on July 3rd. All the show cars there, then my beater. Lol. I had nothing to worry about though. She drew tons of attention and was the center of many conversations. The only 67 Dart there. There was a 63 Dart convertible and a 66 valiant there as well but that's it for A bodies.
 
Thank you for the education Dana. I was not aware of the reasoning behind the aftermarket sending units being crap. I may see if I can fix my original. it leaks where the fuel line passes through the plate. Maybe I could braise it closed again? I replaced the float and the sock and the resistance range is good.
 
Hello All! It's been a while but I have been working on the Dart as I can. Most of the work was working the bugs out of the engine and transmission over the summer while enjoying driving the car. Went to a couple of car shows and cruise-ins. Overall I love it! Now that winter is here in full force, I am getting back into working to make her better. This past weekend I updated the rear suspension. New springs, bushings, and hardware. the back end was drooping pretty good before and now it has a proper stance. before and after pics below. Front suspension is next with a front end rebuild kit from Anderson Restoration. Tie rods, ball joints, idler arm, and all the bushings. Also picked up a front sway bar. She didn't come with one factory so I went with the Hellwig as it is bolt in. I am also preparing to start body work. Front floors, torsion bar crossmember, patching the quarters, and filling dents. I hope to have it ready for paint in late spring or early summer.

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67 is by far the best A Body.

The GT trim package was clean and doesn't detract from the body lines like the 68 or 69 GT trim does.

It was the start of the entire 67 to 76 dart / duster line.

Far more attractive then Barracudas or Valients
i almost agree lol
they are cleaner except the 68 gts with longitude stripe with gts nose cone and 68 lower dash pad 67s had the best top dash pad ever in a dart
my 1968 gts sunfire yellow black longitude stripe with the nose cone was clean
the 68 gt trim was afull ruined the car
also like 68 tail lights grill side markers looked killer with a nice lopey cam
i hate 69 darts all the way around
 
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