1968 Barracuda Notch - Plano, TX

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mosleyme said:
We need to get these two running and put them side by side. Mine is the dark green "evil" twin.
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I know! Mine will pick up progress here soon. I can't get my SS window trim for the side glass to polish out properly. Been fighting it off and on for weeks. It's been discouraging. Once that is done, all the glass , run channels and weatherstripping is ready to go. Block is machined and rotating assembly enroute also.
 
khuebner250 said:
I'm running toyo proxes r888r F&R. front wheel is 18x9 with 35mm offset(6.38" bs) and rear is 18x11, should have done 12", with 0 offest(6" bs).
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0" offset on a 12" wheel would be 6.5" back spacing. 12" is nominal / bead to bead size, actual edge to edge width of a 12" wheel would be close to 13". Backspace is measured from a flat surface, edge of the wheel; offset is measured from centerline. If you need to push your wheel out a little have your friend make you a hub centric spacer that also centers on the axle register. It will be OK as long as your studs have plenty of length. You can run 3" studs on yours with open lugs, they will be under the caps anyway.
 
khuebner250 said:
I know! Mine will pick up progress here soon. I can't get my SS window trim for the side glass to polish out properly. Been fighting it off and on for weeks. It's been discouraging. Once that is done, all the glass , run channels and weatherstripping is ready to go. Block is machined and rotating assembly enroute also.
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I did the passenger side, still have to do the drivers side. Installing the rear side window glass and getting it adjusted was painful and the mechanism still binds. I don't know if that is normal or if mine is somehow damaged. Next big step for me is to get a new steering column and get all the under hood accessories and plumbing done so I can get headers made.

Not too long ago a guy on the 67-69 Barracuda board popped up that had just purchased a blue '68 Notchback. Turns out he works in my building and lives about 4 blocks away.

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khuebner250 said:
I know! Mine will pick up progress here soon. I can't get my SS window trim for the side glass to polish out properly. Been fighting it off and on for weeks. It's been discouraging. Once that is done, all the glass , run channels and weatherstripping is ready to go. Block is machined and rotating assembly enroute also.
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What transmission are you running?
 
mosleyme said:
0" offset on a 12" wheel would be 6.5" back spacing. 12" is nominal / bead to bead size, actual edge to edge width of a 12" wheel would be close to 13". Backspace is measured from a flat surface, edge of the wheel; offset is measured from centerline. If you need to push your wheel out a little have your friend make you a hub centric spacer that also centers on the axle register. It will be OK as long as your studs have plenty of length. You can run 3" studs on yours with open lugs, they will be under the caps anyway.
Click to expand...
This math is correct but I'm only running a 11" wheel. So 12" overall, 6" backspacing, 0 offest.
 
mosleyme said:
Not too long ago a guy on the 67-69 Barracuda board popped up that had just purchased a blue '68 Notchback. Turns out he works in my building and lives about 4 blocks away.

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What are the odds? A kid back in H.S. had a B5 notchback just like that one. His car was way nicer than mine at the time. Pretty cool though. What board?
 
mosleyme said:
I did the passenger side, still have to do the drivers side. Installing the rear side window glass and getting it adjusted was painful and the mechanism still binds. I don't know if that is normal or if mine is somehow damaged. Next big step for me is to get a new steering column and get all the under hood accessories and plumbing done so I can get headers made.

Not too long ago a guy on the 67-69 Barracuda board popped up that had just purchased a blue '68 Notchback. Turns out he works in my building and lives about 4 blocks away.

View attachment 1715257055
Click to expand...

After owning the car for three months he replaced the headers with Schumaker Tri-Ys, put in a new transmission, a new converter, a new exhaust, a throttle body EFI system. Then after driving it around for a few months he traded it off for a '68 Camaro he found! He has a new Camaro with the same color and same stripes...
 
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I stumbled across the 68 differences a few years(different part #) and shape. I wondered what it would look like. Should work for 67 or 69.
Nice to see repops on the white column pieces. Originals are always broke n brittle.
Thanks for posting!
mosleyme said:
Part on left is the original, part on right is what Classic Industries sells for ‘67-‘69 A-body. The ‘68 lower dash pads say otherwise. Got a return authorization and shipped it back for a refund.

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mosleyme said:
These were awesome, fit perfect!

View attachment 1715284515 View attachment 1715284516
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This showed up yesterday, hope to get time tomorrow to test fit and set the shaft length.

Column bolts on using factory mount
92725ABF-D5C6-47C5-964B-1A657CFFFC42.jpeg


Also have the floor piece to go with the column
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And the Tuff wheel adapter
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The U-joint to go from this column to a Borgeson steering box
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And this funny looking turn signal stalk
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Flaming River part numbers for the column:
Part Numbers.jpg
 
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Cut it down 6-3/4” today; on 3/11 I cut another 1" off for a total of 7-3/4" removed because the slip shaft was fully compressed, it works correctly now.

Shaft was too long, overall length I believe was 45”
94164064-2DBD-40A4-8653-CCFAFC0B11D0.jpeg


Had my 16 yr old Alec cut it
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After cutting
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Here it is in the car
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Mounted
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With steering wheel
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Still need to adjust the floor mount
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At flaming river they powder coated the floor mount; the collar that goes around the swivel joint is held on by three countersunk screws from the engine bay side. The screws are spaced 120 degrees apart. They had the swivel clocked 120 out so it wasn't sitting down correctly. Fixed that today.

Engineering tip: if you ever design such a piece make the third hole offset, that way it only bolts on one way... your assembler won't get it wrong!

One of the bolt holes on the aluminum steering wheel adapter stripped out as I was trying to thread in one of the bolts that hold the wheel on. Alec got to learn how to install a Heli-coil thread insert today and we put anti-sieze on the bolts. The slip shaft was fully compressed, so we took another 1" off the shaft for a total of 7-3/4" removed. The slip shaft now works as intended. Drilled the divots on the shaft for the U-joint set screws. Done for now.

A small, less than 1/8" gap exists around the swivel on the floor mount. After final assembly and everything is bolted down I will run a little bit of RTV black into that gap to seal the engine bay from the cabin.

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I'm still chomping at the bit to get reports from the F&B Weiand setup you have.
If it runs as awesome as it looks, it's going to be great!
Other than forking over big money for a Weiand intake, the ModMan single plane is my best option if I want to explore a 6bbl intake other than the Edelbrock/Chrysler factory style aluminum 6bbl intake I have on my 440.
Really only interested in the effect of a different intake once I get a stroker motor built.
 
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