1968 Dart GTS 340

-
Status
Not open for further replies.
gtsdude

gtsdude

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2010
Messages
838
Reaction score
218
Location
SE MN
Rating - 100%
5   0   0
Contact seller
1968 Dart GTS 340 auto on colum.B3 blue,B3 blue interior, legendary seat covers, headliner, has dash cap glued on top dash and have a lower one in mint shape to go on, rear dash new painted to match. Carpet was replaced but has small rip by throttle. Engine was freshened about 5 years ago, has TRW forged replacement pistons, .30 over. MP 508/280 solid cam, 273 rocker arms, X heads with hardened seats, Air gap intake, 750 Dp with proform body, Electric fuel pump and regulator. Aluminum radiator and electric fan, MP distributor with FBO ignition. 727 trans with 3800 stall converter, was in the car when I bought it. Rear is 4.10 with moser axles and big bolt pattern, front is small bolt with factory disk brakes. Was painted about 5 years ago the original color with original white stripe, have no fender tag or build sheet. Paint has chips and dings but very nice driver. Bumpers rechromed. Car came from Arizona, have copy of original tittle. Nice driver and very solid, no rust in floors, trunk or innner front fenders. Have clear title, asking $11,500 PM for more info. Located in Southern Minnesota.

DSC01625 (Small).JPG


DSC01629 (Small).JPG
 
Very nice looking car.

Is the car #matching, as far as the radiator support, drivetrain, fender tag and VIN plate on driver's upper corner/driver's door info.tag?

UPDATE: I see that you state that the fender tag and the build sheet are missing. I can understand the missing build sheet, but missing fender tag? Have you validated the car via established sources, and have you checked all the places on the car that I mentioned earlier, to validate that the car is a real factory GTS? Any documented history of ownership?

Does the car need anything, other than a new owner?
 
Still shocked at all the lost fender tags. Someone must have about a thousand in their sock drawer.

Nice car at a reasonable price from what we have seen so far.
 
I have seen this car on the street several times .. very nice looking car !!=P~ Do not know the owner , though .
 
Thanks for the info. that you PM'ed me, concerning your usage of the car, as well the very minor items you listed. The car looks very good, and should sell.

My remaining questions are: If the fender tag and buildsheet have gone missing, and the buildsheet absence is understandable, but fender tag is ?, how did you validate that the car is a 1968 factory GTS?

What documentation proves that the car is a 1968 factory GTS?

What did you find on the car that validated this vehicle as a 1968 factory GTS?
 
Doesnt the VIN number establish that it is a GTS?

BTW, nice car. If I had the money I'd be all over it.
 
...........I thought all GTSs r buckets+consol and the GT were either or.........I cant say that ive seen a GTS with out b+c......kim.........
 
jeryst said:
Doesnt the VIN number establish that it is a GTS?

BTW, nice car. If I had the money I'd be all over it.
Click to expand...

No, the VIN alone does not establish whether the car is indeed a factory GTS.

It is a well known step that some people take, to re-body a car, by transferring the dash with the VIN plate, the doors with the manufacturer tag, and the radiator support, from a real factory high performance Mopar car to a lesser car that may have a decent body/structure. This happens often with the rare higher end Mopars like 'Cudas, A12s and Hemi cars, and if you were to compare the number of these cars that the factory actually built, versus the number of cars out there for sale, claiming to be the "real" deal, you might find that the number of cars claimed to be "real" versus the total number produced by the factory could be way out of wack.

The car should be stamped in numerous places, both on the drivetrain and on the body / radiator support, that can validate the car.

The best source would be a combination of the VIN stamps on the vehicle, and ownership documentation of the car's history, from the initial purchase date.
 
Torque boxes? "H" code in vin ? Does vin on rad support , dash , rear trunk lip match ? Hopefully this can help determine if it was a 6/8 cyl car and also if 318/340/383 car ... BUT determining if it is a GT, GTS, Swinger :(
 
Longgone ... i thought the "H" designation was either 340/383 ? AND i agree with your reply not a GTS or "Swinger 340."
 
Through 1969 model year, the "P" code in the Dart VIN denoted "340" factory car. I had a 1969 factory 340 Dart Swinger with the "P" in the VIN...I had every piece of full ownership history from the day it was bought ...

I also had the 1969 factory shop manual which had some decoding info. included, that verified the the fifth digit in the VIN should be a "P" for a factory 340 car...


Does anyone remember what an "M" stood for in the fifth VIN digit? 440 car?
 
Vs29H1B - I can't quite follow your logic here.... you state :

"It is a well known step that some people take, to re-body a car, by transferring the dash with the VIN plate, the doors with the manufacturer tag, and the radiator support, from a real factory high performance Mopar car.

This happens often with the rare higher end Mopars like 'Cudas, A12s and Hemi cars, and if you were to compare the number of these cars that the factory actually built, versus the number of cars out there for sale, claiming to be the "real" deal, you might find that the number of cars claimed to be "real" versus the total number produced by the factory could be way out of wack."

How does transfering the VIN from a real car to a fake, increase the number of real cars out there? If there was a real car out there, and you destroy it and transfer the VIN to another car, how does this change the total number of real cars out there?

I may be in a crowd of one, but I don't see anything different from a real car and one that has been built exactly like the real car and is not different in any way.

Is this really any different that a so called original car that has been constructed around a VIN tag by having most of the body panels replaced and is comprised of a boatload of reproduction parts and a restamped engine and transmission?

Why is this car more original than a survivor car with a correctly replaced engine and trans, and a replaced VIN and fender tag?
 
Well…… A re-body and a clone are 2 different things. A clone will still have a vin that says /6, 318 or whatever.

A re-body of a performance model will have a vin (and/or other documentation) that says, 340, 440, Hemi or whatever……

I know it's crazy. Like your example………

"but I don't see anything different from a real car and one that has been built exactly like the real car and is not different in any way."


The difference may only be 1 letter on the vin tag but people will pay extra for that 1 letter even on a re-body that may only have 2% of the original car left.


You are correct in your point that no cars are gained in a re-body, It is a simple transfer of numbers.

Pure documentation fraud is another story.
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
Well…… A re-body and a clone are 2 different things. A clone will still have a vin that says /6, 318 or whatever.

A re-body of a performance model will have a vin (and/or other documentation) that says, 340, 440, Hemi or whatever……

I know it's crazy. Like your example………

"but I don't see anything different from a real car and one that has been built exactly like the real car and is not different in any way."


The difference may only be 1 letter on the vin tag but people will pay extra for that 1 letter even on a re-body that may only have 2% of the original car left.


You are correct in your point that no cars are gained in a re-body, It is a simple transfer of numbers.

Pure documentation fraud is another story.
Click to expand...

Thank You for making my points - in a much more effective manner.

Plain and simple, a re-body and transfer of the VIN to another car IS FRAUD.

Check with your DMV...
 
Well…… The problem is, it is not always fraud.

We have had several long threads on this. It really comes down to what % of the original car must you maintain for it not to be a re-body?

If I have a car that is 90% destroyed (lets say rusted out) and I cut up a solid parts car moving the roof, fenders, hood, 1/4s, doors, trunk lid, frame rails and so on over……. Is that a re-body?


An argument can be made that the only difference between a re-body and a non re-body is that……..

Re-body = Moving #s to a body.

Non Re-Body = moving a body to the numbers.
 
Anyway…… We are way off topic and this discussion would need it's own thread.

Even without a fender tag or other documentation that car in that condition is probably worth the asking price.
 
OK I agree that there has been waaay too much verbal diarhea spilt over this topic in the past, but it still burns my *** to watch some "number police wanna be" play detective at a car show and put down someone elses car because he doesn't think it is a REAL car.


If this pertains to YOU as you read this, please realize that if the owner or anyone else within ear shot wanted your valuable opinion, (which you are so eager to give away) ...they would have asked you for it.

...nuff said from me.
 
Not sure where you are going with that but car shows and cars for sale are 2 different things.

If a person is advertising a car as a Formula S, GTS or whatever, this implies added value……. You are paying a premium for a performance model.

It is reasonable to ask for and expect some kind of documentation that will show you are getting what you are paying for.


Car shows don't even matter.
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
If a person is advertising a car as a Formula S, GTS or whatever, this implies added value……. You are paying a premium for a performance model.

It is reasonable to ask for and expect some kind of documentation that will show you are getting what you are paying for.
Click to expand...

Quite right.

And to answer someone else's question, the "M" engine designation meant "special order V8", which usually means a 440 in an A body. For a 69 1/2 B body (which was never referred to as a 69 1/2 by the factory) meant a 440+6.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
-

Back
Top