Very nice, Good luck.
1969 Daily Driver
- Thread starter dart19666
- Start date
-
Very nice, Good luck.
I convinced TTI exhaust to put to market a manifold back exhaust for sale to the general public for a slant six. He had done it a few years back for one of the magazines but here it is ready for purchase and a real part number. It was a super simple install laying on my back in the front yard, took two hours from jack up to jack down. I started it up and it has a great sound to it, I tried to get a video of it but the sound does not come through good at all. Notice the O2 bung???? Well that will be used later on a different upgrade.
Last edited:
cdnEHbody
Well-Known Member
Whats the cost on that?!?
The cost was right at 450.00 but I had to pay sales tax on that so your price will be cheaper. But Canada just screwed just as bad as we do.
cdnEHbody
Well-Known Member
Yeah best bet would be drive into USA install it then drive back ha ha ha ha ha. I have people who buy Crower parts do that. Just a thought.
cdnEHbody
Well-Known Member
In reality by the time i pay someone to mandrel bend a new from scratch with labour and install thats probably not far off.
That is what I was thinking and it was cheaper this way. At least where I live it is way cheaper.
/sixchall
Well-Known Member
That’s a great looking exhaust set up “dart19666” and reasonably priced, especially through TTI. A smooth mandrel bent exhaust system, love the flange. 10 years ago I had a local muffler shop redo my whole exhaust system on my Slant6 ‘70 Challenger with a real dual Aluminized 2.25” exhaust off 3in1 Hooker headers with an H pipe 2 glass Pak mufflers and to 2 bright tips at back. This was about 10 years ago at the same price $450.
I went around to no less that five different shops here in the So Cal area and everyone of them was over 500 one want 1,000 so this was a super easy choice. Plus it only took about two hours on my back in the driveway from jack up too jack down.
Let talk about the importance of degreeing in your camshaft for a second. I talk to people everyday that did not degree in their cam or they think degreeing in a cam is as simple as lining up the dots. We all know, people that is following this thread, that I am in the middle of building a slant six "My first". I bought an engine rebuild kit and it came with a stock style timing gears set with no adjustment at all. Lucky enough for me when I degreed it in it was 1 degree advanced 105 ICL insted of 106 ICL. Then as I have been lurking around the net I see that a double roller is out there so I buy one and get it here. Well I lined up dotes and then pulled up the stool to degree this new set up in not knowing this would be a day ender, and the next week ender. So after the first time I get 116 ICL??? WTF. Has to be a mistake so I completely tear down the set up and try again boom same number 116 ICL. Well this presents a problem because the bottom adjustment only has 8 degrees of advance/retard. So I go to the parts store, and just for fun now, I buy a different timing set and this one will tell me what set up is wrong, stock or double roller. Well that one comes in at 106 ICL. Well the stock chains so far are checking out good or both of the have the exact amount of advance in them. Well this presents a problem, since I do work for crower out comes the camshaft and lets make sure it was made correctly. The check out was perfect so now this leads me to the new high dollar timing set. I then bring in the crank and the lower timing gears to crower to have them checked, and everything is perfect. Hmmm WTF well that leaves only one thing the cam sprocket and guess what, yes that was drilled wrong and retarded the cam my 10 degrees and that is the same amount I kept getting. Now how do we fix this well simple I counted the teeth on the sprocket then divided that by 360 degrees. That gives me 13.88 degrees per a link. So I advanced the cam by one link then used the lower sprocket 4 degree retard that should get me close. First shot and nailed what I was looking for. Just slightly over 106 ICL, that is close enough for me. I believe that I am almost done with mock up and will be building an engine this weekend. Goooooooo me. Also while I was lurking around the net I cam across this to oil the timing chain. Pic is below.
funny, first thing i thought was "ok, slip the sprocket / cam to get where you need". this does bring up the question of whether you want to install the cam "straight up" or pick up a little adv / retard.
have fun
Yeah I just wanted it to be correct and since I have more time than most to build this engine I wanted to see who made their parts wrong. All I can say is be careful when using the high dollar double roller. Make sure and check.
Charrlie_S
Well-Known Member
That chamfer on the main bearing is how the factory did the chain oiling. Aftermarker bearing do not have the chamfer. I always file it on the bearing shell myself. The aftermarket part number callout for the mains lists the same part number for number 1,2, and 4 main. The factory part book, lists the same number for number 2 and 4, but a different number for 1.
The engine I took apart had a chamfer on it also. I just decided to chamfer mine where the bearing tang is. This is my first slant six so I am paying huge attention to what I am doing and what I took apart. But yes that is the idea is to get some oil to the timing chain since this engine will live on the freeway.
I have this mountain of data for what worked and did not work for me on this slant six that I am currently running but here is my problem............How do I translate all this info into something that will not take a month to type. Still unsure of how to do this, but the whole goal of this was drive ability and MPG's since I drive 50 miles a day.
You know what they say,, A picture is worth a thousand words. Many will skip over the long drawn out posts (I know I do)
Doing just what you have here in 117 posts has helped many of us more than you may know. The above photo did just that with the chamfer on the bearing.
Doing just what you have here in 117 posts has helped many of us more than you may know. The above photo did just that with the chamfer on the bearing.
Who has a good 225 Forged crank for 1968 and up. Mine has cracks LAME
So this happened over the weekend. I love the 1969 Dart so much I cant give it to the wife so I went out and got her own Slant 6 Valiant. I got this in Yucca Valley CA and is/was a one owner car.
Nice solid car. You guys are lucky out there in Sunland.
Is the interior baked?
Is the interior baked?
Nige
Member
1969 valiants by far have the coolest grille of all a-bodies.
No it is not. I will post some pics.
Funny enough it is in excellent condition. Lived in a garage most its life. Plus I have a donor 1967 more door dart that will be used for parts if needed. But this thing is super nice already.
Well this weekend went well. Slant six is in and runs just fine.
-
