1969 Race Dart w/ 426 Hemi- garaged for 45+ years

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SSing said:
4:88 Dana 60... Yes, but there are at least three different width housing, to chose from.
Also I found it interesting to hear what leaf spring pakage was chosen?
Looks to have offset spring hangers.
Torque box rear?
Adjustable pinion snubber? Any reinforcement snubber, or above in floor pan?
Spring perches reinforcement?
Sign of wheelie bars?
Work inside wheel wells?
Well Im sure, in time you will look in to all this and let us know...
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Dont remember the width, @Maxcustody has that in his notes. It's a car dana, not a truck. The front hanger had the inside flange cut off, moved over about a 1/2" and a hole drilled through the frame rail for the bolt. Then welded solid. The factory torque boxes were cut out and not replaced. Rear leaf spring hangers were just crudely bent over to somewhat match the front 1/2" offset. It has super stock leaf springs, a factory pinion snubber with some pipe welded to it to extend. It has home made ladder bars welded solid to the housing, and located with a solid heim joint up front. No sliders. Shocks relocated to a straight up and down configuration with a peice of 1" angle iron welded to the frame rail. Factory fuel tank and dual electric pumps. Wheel wells cut out and fiberglassed, no wheel tub modifications at all.
 
SSing said:
4:88 Dana 60... Yes, but there are at least three different width housing, to chose from.
Also I found it interesting to hear what leaf spring pakage was chosen?
Looks to have offset spring hangers.
Torque box rear?
Adjustable pinion snubber? Any reinforcement snubber, or above in floor pan?
Spring perches reinforcement?
Sign of wheelie bars?
Work inside wheel wells?
Well Im sure, in time you will look in to all this and let us know...
Click to expand...

replicaracer43 said:
Dont remember the width, @Maxcustody has that in his notes. It's a car dana, not a truck. The front hanger had the inside flange cut off, moved over about a 1/2" and a hole drilled through the frame rail for the bolt. Then welded solid. The factory torque boxes were cut out and not replaced. Rear leaf spring hangers were just crudely bent over to somewhat match the front 1/2" offset. It has super stock leaf springs, a factory pinion snubber with some pipe welded to it to extend. It has home made ladder bars welded solid to the housing, and located with a solid heim joint up front. No sliders. Shocks relocated to a straight up and down configuration with a peice of 1" angle iron welded to the frame rail. Factory fuel tank and dual electric pumps. Wheel wells cut out and fiberglassed, no wheel tub modifications at all.
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My small addition to all this awesome information..................Width is 59.5" :thumbsup:
 
Hemisurfer said:
Found out the car I bought a 68 Dart Hemi was a car that was most likely drag raced in the 70’s from work that was done. Car was a converted 6 cylinder car which I knew when i bought it. Had a fabricated deep sump oil pan with the hole for the suspension to run through it, swing arm pickup actually very well done and functional. Had correct Hemi mounts not elephant ears. The rear is a 4:56 Dana. but not a passenger car Dana it was swapped from a truck. No mounting points for the snubber on the rear so a steel block with a rubber pad had been fabricated and attached to the floor pan. Super Stock Springs, mini tubs, wheel wheels were cut but done very well with a roll underneath. Evidence of fuel pumps being mounted in the trunk. Gas tank was reduced in size to save weight and had a fuel tap for fuel inspection. All the signs of a fairly sophisticated build for the period. Floor had been cut at one time for transmission access. Magnesium crossram, correct carbs. Unfortunately haven’t been able to track down the history, maybe if I stripped the paint but I would rather not. Retained everything as I found it when the drivetrain and engine were redone including a heavily hammered set of Hedman Headers I had Jet Hot coated. Jet Hot saved those headers, highly recommend using them if needed. You never know what you will find when you dig into these cars.
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Yes, that´s one cool car you got there.
Thanks.
 
Cleaned up the hood and scoop yesterday and installed it back on the car.

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I ran that same hood scoop on my Demon for a while, and an aluminum tunnel ram scoop, and no hood for a spell, then now the Pro Stock scoop which is my favorite. It is convenient and cool with no hood at all though
 
OP, what's your plan for the wiring? Are you keeping it stock or are you replacing the harness?

Have you had a chance to inspect the condition?
 
71GSSDemon said:
I ran that same hood scoop on my Demon for a while, and an aluminum tunnel ram scoop, and no hood for a spell, then now the Pro Stock scoop which is my favorite. It is convenient and cool with no hood at all though
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As you know, I have been going back and forth on the hood and scoop……there are many different options :thumbsup:
 
Just Send It said:
OP, what's your plan for the wiring? Are you keeping it stock or are you replacing the harness?

Have you had a chance to inspect the condition?
Click to expand...
No plans to replace the harness unless we encounter something unexpected. We have not thoroughly investigated it yet, but there does not appear to be any obvious problems.
 
I plan on putting new shocks on and replacing front end bushings. As far as front end parts, everything seems solid and probably only has a few hundred miles on them. No sense replacing original mopar parts.
 
Maxcustody said:
As you know, I have been going back and forth on the hood and scoop……there are many different options :thumbsup:
Click to expand...
I am a bit fickle when it comes to this car. I like having options. I love them all and they all have their place. It makes it fun. Right now, with the slots on the car, the lace paint and the pro stock scoop, I am happiest. Your car is amazing all all configurations and I can't wait to see the final (for now) version for you. I like all the options and ideas so far
 
Maxcustody said:
No plans to replace the harness unless we encounter something unexpected. We have not thoroughly investigated it yet, but there does not appear to be any obvious problems.
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May I make a suggestion?

Before the motor goes back in, gently cut the stock loom off and run your thumb up each wire in the engine bay to check for slits, corrosion, or rodent chewing. If everything looks good, you can get new loom tape and rewrap it.

Also, you may to consider the MAD bypass method. It's cheap insurance if you're going to keep the stock harness. I would highly recommend at least looking into it.

I almost lost my old 70' Nova to a 12v constant wire that was shorting against the metal dashboard. It caught the insulation on fire when we were driving it. Thank God I brought an extinguisher with us that day. Ever since then, I've been somewhat neurotic about wiring and promote risk management with electrical.
 
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Just Send It said:
May I make a suggestion?

Before the motor goes back in, gently cut the stock loom off and run your thumb up each wire in the engine bay to check for slits, corrosion, or rodent chewing. If everything looks good, you can get new loom tape and rewrap it. Also, there's another member here named @crackedback that sells a bypass kit for the ammeter.

It's cheap insurance if you're going to keep the stock harness. I would highly recommend at least looking into it.

I almost lost my old 70' Nova to a 12v constant wire that was shorting against the metal dashboard. It caught the insulation on fire when we were driving it. Thank God I brought an extinguisher with us that day. Ever since then, I've been somewhat neurotic about wiring and promote risk management with electrical.
Click to expand...
Thanks for this, great advice and information!
 
With SS springs in the rear, I am assuming OE rear shocks will be too short. I don’t want to put air shocks back on. I am told maybe a B body shock may have the extension. Any recommendations on rear shocks? I called PST but theirs are for OE replacement. Thanks
 
I believe the ones I just put on my Demon are Monroe 37189. 15.25 compressed and 26.625 extended and already the correct 11/16 bushings on both ends for 1971 A body Perfect for my set up.
 
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