1972 Dodge Colt

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If you have gas leaking around the throttle shafts you have issues other than gaskets.

Superformance makes the best carb gaskets I’ve ever used.

Carburetor Gaskets
 
Sad thing is I have had that carb for years.
That was the carb on my Barracuda when I ran 13.50's.
It was also on my Barracuda when it ran 11.50's with the 440.
It used to be a good carb, but I guess we all wear down eventually.
 
Used my new compression tester today, all 6 around 165.
So I have compression on all cylinders.
I cranked it over and had good spark using the newly installed Chrysler Elect Dist.
Got the AVS put back together and installed.
New fuel lines for the Carter.
So I have fuel now.
Installed some roll bar padding on the two roll bar side bars.
Tomorrow I will crank it up and see how it runs with all the changes.

Sure wish I was at Mokan today.
AFB and Electronic Ign (1).JPG
AFB and Electronic Ign (2).JPG
 
I think that the rocker was rubbing the valve cover.
Only thing I can come up with right now.
 
No joy, still a dead cylinder.
I have another head I will start getting ready.
 
Weird …. Compression, spark and fuel and it’s a dead hole…..
Is there a rag in that intake manifold..?
Don’t ask how I know what happens when a rag is left in an intake….
 
I think you're missing something, Stan. It has compression. I don't think another head will do it.
 
It had compression, cold.
I checked the intake for a rag, I haven't done that but I know it has happened.
Cam is fine, I checked the lift at the rockers after the first leakdown.
And no kiss on the the pistons with any valves.

I had a 440 that did this years ago.
Hydraulic cam and found out after teardown that a 318 intake was used as a exhaust valve.
Longer valve and when the lifters pumped up, it pushed the valve off the seat.
I found it with a straight edge on the valve stem tops.
No hydraulic cam in this motor, clearance is set for .018.
 
Stan, you have compression now, but you didn't earlier? I can't think of many things that are going to go away and fix themselves. I am still guessing a guide issue is holding a valve open. That could also explain if a pushrod came out. Maybe once it gets warmed up again it will reveal itself. Good luck finding it! Looking forward to racing you soon!
Rick
 
Have you checked for a broken valve spring really closely? Sometimes that'll pass a compression test because the piston coming up blows the valve shut but it'll skip when running. And btw, how exactly are you verifying it has a skip? I know, stupid question, but I just thought I'd ask.
 
Thanks Bob, Jacko, Rick and Rusty.
I am using my IR Temp meter and there is very little heat on #1 header tube.
Plus I hear a weak sound on the number 1 header.
And the plug is cold, you can run the engine, remove the plug and hold in your hand.
Springs are all good, and stiff, like I use to be.....

I "may" have stumbled on the issue last night.
I loosened both the #1 adjusters on the rocker arms a turn or so.
Then I re-ran the compression test and I have good pressure again.
I installed the Cam by Jim's instructions from Racer Brown.
As it's ground and installed it's what I call very advanced.
I used a couple of different methods to set the valve clearance.
Not sure why 2-6 are doing ok, but I suspect my adjustments are not quite right.
So if I am on the right track the #1 cylinder is leaking air during the test.
Leaking because there is not enough clearance at the right time to seal the compression.

I have a procedure I created years ago from the DC sticker for V8's.
I just tweaked it for the slant firing order and instead of 90, you use 120 rotation.
That is what I have used for years, but just like the genius I am, decided to improve the wheel.

Picked up Kota from the Vet today after his nut-cutting so having to spend time with him.
Might not get back on the Colt for a few days.

I do appreciate all the thoughts about the problems I am having.
Good to know I am not alone with this issue.
Nut Cuttin (2).jpeg
 
Valve adjust chart. I made this using the Direct Connection sticker for the V8 engines.
Just corrected it for a slant.
Valve Adjust Chart.JPG
 
I used to try the MP chart but I found it easier to adjust one cylinder at a time. When the exhaust just begins to open, set the intake. When the intake rotates just past maximum lift, set the exhaust. That way you are sure you are on the base circle of the cam.
 
Stan, can you double gasket the valve cover and then try it again? It really sounds like a valve is hanging open. Any way you can hear whether there is air escaping from the intake or exhaust?
 
Great video by the way, but sorry that you are having trouble. How about changing to a set of the old black roller rockers and see if it fixes your problem? If you don't have a set of rockers I can ship you a set to try.

Mark
 
Stan, have you tried a factory valve cover? You’ve used this valve cover before? Do you have a photo of the head with the valve cover off?
 
qkcuda said:
Stan, can you double gasket the valve cover and then try it again? It really sounds like a valve is hanging open. Any way you can hear whether there is air escaping from the intake or exhaust?
Click to expand...
I could, but that to me is just a bandaid.
I need to find the problem and solution.
I could not hear with the header and intake on.
I can now that I am just about to pull the head.
 
justinp61 said:
Stan, have you tried a factory valve cover? You’ve used this valve cover before? Do you have a photo of the head with the valve cover off?
Click to expand...
I installed a steel cover yesterday, same problem. Same pattern.
Same issue.
Here is the #1 cylinder and springs.
No Comp Images (4).JPG
No Comp Images (5).JPG
 
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