Bob at GlenRay has made our Christmas! '73 correct part number radiator and fan shroud he picked up at Carlisle this summer for us
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1972 Duster Build with my Daughter
- Thread starter Jim Kueneman
- Start date
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Soon
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Bob is the best at Glenray Radiators. Everything you need to installed his show piece restorations. This is the correct part number for the '73 donor Dart that was missing. The shroud is the correct OEM part that he found at Carlise and bought for me.... The only hard part is calling him and asking what the damage is... Yes he ships you without payment because he is not happy unless you are 100% in his work...
After playing with the radiator Kaelyn got up and we got after it. We are both on Christmas break so there should be some serious progress made in the next 2 weeks..
A little PlastiDip on the wire holders add a small detail that really stands out on this B1 car...
Then we got busy with under hood electrical. New M&H harnesses along with Mopar OEM voltage regulator. The ECU is aftermarket so we will see how long it lasts....
The most important thing for these boxes is getting them grounded to the body HARD. I don't trust the simple sheet metal screws so on the ECU and regulator I used star washers and put a nut on the back so they can be torqued down for excellent electrical contact.
After playing with the radiator Kaelyn got up and we got after it. We are both on Christmas break so there should be some serious progress made in the next 2 weeks..
A little PlastiDip on the wire holders add a small detail that really stands out on this B1 car...
Then we got busy with under hood electrical. New M&H harnesses along with Mopar OEM voltage regulator. The ECU is aftermarket so we will see how long it lasts....
The most important thing for these boxes is getting them grounded to the body HARD. I don't trust the simple sheet metal screws so on the ECU and regulator I used star washers and put a nut on the back so they can be torqued down for excellent electrical contact.
And the voltage regulator I cut a hole in the insulation so it is accessible in the future.
We decided to try the radiator before calling Bob. He used a heavy duty core so it is a bit thicker than the original. He warned me I would have to cut about 1/4" from the upper radiator rail. Also the '73 Dart side supports I got just a smidge to narrow so I had to do a little work to get the radiator to slip in without damaging the fins on the edge... We are going to leave it in for now where it is safe. When we take it out to install the power train we will touch up the paint with some white epoxy primer and no one will be the wiser...
PERFECT fit....
We restored the starter relay (will see if it works some day), ran the wiring and wiring clips, installed the new windshield washer parts and called it a night.
We decided to try the radiator before calling Bob. He used a heavy duty core so it is a bit thicker than the original. He warned me I would have to cut about 1/4" from the upper radiator rail. Also the '73 Dart side supports I got just a smidge to narrow so I had to do a little work to get the radiator to slip in without damaging the fins on the edge... We are going to leave it in for now where it is safe. When we take it out to install the power train we will touch up the paint with some white epoxy primer and no one will be the wiser...
PERFECT fit....
We restored the starter relay (will see if it works some day), ran the wiring and wiring clips, installed the new windshield washer parts and called it a night.
Classic Industries. We will see....
John_Lemon
Well-Known Member
Maybe you figured this out already but the two small connectors in pic 4 are for the horn(s) and the large one is P side headlight (I think).Mocking up of the wiring. A few mystery connectors that I don't know what plugs into them.... Also they don't put the ECU connector in the right spot for '72 Dusters...View attachment 1715263195View attachment 1715263196View attachment 1715263197View attachment 1715263198
****, wiring is easy on these old things. If it doesn't fit, it doesn't go there.
Maybe you figured this out already but the two small connectors in pic 4 are for the horn(s) and the large one is P side headlight (I think).
****, wiring is easy on these old things. If it doesn't fit, it doesn't go there.
Yup.... where does the headlight harness ground screw to? Can you take a photo?
John_Lemon
Well-Known Member
Will do, stay tuned.
JDMopar
Well-Known Member
If the 2 black ground wires for the headlight harness come out of the tape just in front of the battery tray, they should bolt to that bolt hole in the rad support, upper drivers side left. There should be an additional ground that comes of off your negative battery cable that bolts to the same place. Trace the biggest connector onto the rad support with a pencil, and then go to bare metal underneath it with silicone grease under the connector to keep it from crudding up. Those are important grounds.
John_Lemon
Well-Known Member
I was incorrect above, the larger connector is to the turn signal pig tail, not the headlight.
JD is spot on with the ground location for that part of the harness.
JD is spot on with the ground location for that part of the harness.
Kaelyn and I fought with the starter today. First time I tried to replace bushings, because I have never done it.... Don't do it unless necessary (have rebuilt a LOT of GM starters in my early mechanic days and never found it necessary). You really need the correct reamer to get the clearance back. We spent a lot of time getting the shafts to turn freely afterwards. We got the transmission restored then realized I ordered the kit for the earless brush holder.... aaaarrrrrrgggggg.... Oh well now I have a replacement in stock for the Coronet. Will order the right one Monday. Kaelyn left early to go to a Christmas party so I pulled the RV2 compressor apart and cleaned it out to remove as much mineral oil as possible. I will document how to put it back together tomorrow. I was too lazy to get the SD card this afternoon.
I need to get the RV2 back together so I can shoot the last bit of black epoxy on a number of parts. The engine will be done by the end of the year and we will need all the parts ready to start reassembly. Problem is a few things need painting and after tomorrow the weather is going to be too cold to paint for at least 2-3 weeks so it is tomorrow or we will be stalled on the power train reassembly...
I need to get the RV2 back together so I can shoot the last bit of black epoxy on a number of parts. The engine will be done by the end of the year and we will need all the parts ready to start reassembly. Problem is a few things need painting and after tomorrow the weather is going to be too cold to paint for at least 2-3 weeks so it is tomorrow or we will be stalled on the power train reassembly...
Did some of these come with just 1 horn? With the addition of the 26" radiator the horn went under the battery. With the Dart 26" radiator the horn BARELY fit next to the radiator.
OMG this is the same number I have on my starter! I should sell it after I rebuild it!
John_Lemon
Well-Known Member
Yes they did come with one horn, our virgin base model sure did. We are still running the original harness on ours with one horn. The second lead is just hanging loose.
I believe we have the low note horn on it now. The holes for the high note horn are right next to it on the radiator support. Easy upgrade. Low on the list for us at this point.
JDMopar
Well-Known Member
Sell the big starter, and get one for a 92 Dodge B250 van with a 318. Mini starter that's a lot easier to deal with, and has a warranty! Bolts right up with no problems.
John_Lemon
Well-Known Member
We're running this one NEW STARTER for MINI MOPAR DODGE PLYMOUTH SUPER TORQUE DODGE RAM TRUCK SND0088
Works great, no issues so far. Slips in and out of the headers very easily plus the fast ratio spins it over super quick.
Works great, no issues so far. Slips in and out of the headers very easily plus the fast ratio spins it over super quick.
SLOPAR72
Well-Known Member
I was looking for something last night in my stash and ran across one of these..... I think you need one of these on the car Jim.....
I’d like to have one of those on my demon
RV2 AC compressor, simple, reliable, easy to rebuild, power hogs and bloody heavy. Lets rebuild one...
Here are the parts I used....
1960-1976 Dodge Parts | MD646747 | 1961-76 Mopar Rv2 AC Compressor Shaft Seals | Classic Industries
1960-1976 Dodge Parts | MD646748 | 1961-76 Mopar Rv2 AC Compressor Gasket Set | Classic Industries
I already pulled it apart but assembly is the opposite of disassembly... I clean it out with Acetone and blow it out. Then flush and blow it out with Southern Polyurethanes 700 Wax and Grease remover. Water based and leaves no residue. When your are blowing it out do NOT hit the reed valves hard and damage them and do NOT spin the ball bearing with it, especially if you have used the cleaner to remove the old oil....
This one has no damage to the walls and you can still the the hone hatch marks. The reeds were not rusted and in good shape. Perfect rebuild candidate.
Cylinder head and valve plate. This is exactly what your air compressor looks like
Oil pump is super simple. Make sure you retain the orientation of all the parts. They have worn in that way so make sure they remain that way.
Here is the 134a compatible seal I bought from Classic Industries. The one for the Coronet was of a different design and way more confusing. This one is the same design as the original.
Here is the old one to compare.
First polish up the shaft where the seal rides with 1500 grit paper. Try to get any evidence of the old seal line off the shaft.
About as good I could do.
Lots of debate between Ester and PAG. I used Ester in the Coronet an a SAE paper I read showed there is a slight cooling advantage with Ester. I get the type with the dye in it to look for leaks later.
This is the micro polished surface the seal rides on. An o-ring is around the outside and it slips into the housing. You can put it in backwards so look for the highly polished surface to go toward the seal.
Here are the parts I used....
1960-1976 Dodge Parts | MD646747 | 1961-76 Mopar Rv2 AC Compressor Shaft Seals | Classic Industries
1960-1976 Dodge Parts | MD646748 | 1961-76 Mopar Rv2 AC Compressor Gasket Set | Classic Industries
I already pulled it apart but assembly is the opposite of disassembly... I clean it out with Acetone and blow it out. Then flush and blow it out with Southern Polyurethanes 700 Wax and Grease remover. Water based and leaves no residue. When your are blowing it out do NOT hit the reed valves hard and damage them and do NOT spin the ball bearing with it, especially if you have used the cleaner to remove the old oil....
This one has no damage to the walls and you can still the the hone hatch marks. The reeds were not rusted and in good shape. Perfect rebuild candidate.
Cylinder head and valve plate. This is exactly what your air compressor looks like
Oil pump is super simple. Make sure you retain the orientation of all the parts. They have worn in that way so make sure they remain that way.
Here is the 134a compatible seal I bought from Classic Industries. The one for the Coronet was of a different design and way more confusing. This one is the same design as the original.
Here is the old one to compare.
First polish up the shaft where the seal rides with 1500 grit paper. Try to get any evidence of the old seal line off the shaft.
About as good I could do.
Lots of debate between Ester and PAG. I used Ester in the Coronet an a SAE paper I read showed there is a slight cooling advantage with Ester. I get the type with the dye in it to look for leaks later.
This is the micro polished surface the seal rides on. An o-ring is around the outside and it slips into the housing. You can put it in backwards so look for the highly polished surface to go toward the seal.
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The flash flare can be deceiving in the photos so don't use these as the reference. Looking at the part in person it is obvious... This is the side that goes in the housing first, not micro polished.
With a lot of oil on the seal the bushing slips right in. You can see the thin raised surface on the seal that rides on the micro surface.
The seal comes apart so make sure you see how it fits together. I pull it apart so I can get a good coat of oil on all surfaces.
Put a lot of oil on the shaft and it will slip right on. Be carful not to cut the shaft seal with the keyway.
I then flipped it over and installed the oil pump o-ring, lubed with oil.
Install the outer cog.
Drop in the shaft, making sure it is in the keyway at the bottom of the hole.
The drop in the inner cog.
Fill up the pockets with oil to pre prime the pump and bolt on the cover.
Now flip it over and fill up the crankcase making sure to slowly turn the crankshaft while pouring the oil on the difference bearing to get them will coated. The compressor holds about 8oz so it will take this entire bottle. When the system goes together another 8oz is spilt between the condenser and evaporator for a total of 16oz.
With a lot of oil on the seal the bushing slips right in. You can see the thin raised surface on the seal that rides on the micro surface.
The seal comes apart so make sure you see how it fits together. I pull it apart so I can get a good coat of oil on all surfaces.
Put a lot of oil on the shaft and it will slip right on. Be carful not to cut the shaft seal with the keyway.
I then flipped it over and installed the oil pump o-ring, lubed with oil.
Install the outer cog.
Drop in the shaft, making sure it is in the keyway at the bottom of the hole.
The drop in the inner cog.
Fill up the pockets with oil to pre prime the pump and bolt on the cover.
Now flip it over and fill up the crankcase making sure to slowly turn the crankshaft while pouring the oil on the difference bearing to get them will coated. The compressor holds about 8oz so it will take this entire bottle. When the system goes together another 8oz is spilt between the condenser and evaporator for a total of 16oz.
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Drop the pump check valve in the hole with a little oil
The oil pan preloads the spring when installed.
Put on the new gasket. Here you see the entire oil pump intake and return. Oil is pumped from the bottom of the oil pan through the center hole to the channel that enters the cast iron on the right. Up to the oil pump then back down through the check into the oil pan.
Bolt on the oil pan and and torqe down the bolts.
Pour the rest of the oil into the crankcase covering the new seal and bearing.
Make sure all parts of the seal are installed and install the end cap. This will go on hard so oil the o-ring a lot. Don't be tempted to use the bolts to draw it down. Take them down so there is a slight torque on the cover then tap around it with a plastic/rubber hammer. Keep alternating this combination till it sits flat. If you can't get it to sit flush without tightening the bolts I would take it back off and make sure everything is alright.
Torque down the bolts and that is done.
Tap in the woodruff key.
A little oil on the cylinder walls.
Head gasket, I like the ribs up but some of them you can't flip over and don't have a choice.
The oil pan preloads the spring when installed.
Put on the new gasket. Here you see the entire oil pump intake and return. Oil is pumped from the bottom of the oil pan through the center hole to the channel that enters the cast iron on the right. Up to the oil pump then back down through the check into the oil pan.
Bolt on the oil pan and and torqe down the bolts.
Pour the rest of the oil into the crankcase covering the new seal and bearing.
Make sure all parts of the seal are installed and install the end cap. This will go on hard so oil the o-ring a lot. Don't be tempted to use the bolts to draw it down. Take them down so there is a slight torque on the cover then tap around it with a plastic/rubber hammer. Keep alternating this combination till it sits flat. If you can't get it to sit flush without tightening the bolts I would take it back off and make sure everything is alright.
Torque down the bolts and that is done.
Tap in the woodruff key.
A little oil on the cylinder walls.
Head gasket, I like the ribs up but some of them you can't flip over and don't have a choice.
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Put on the reed valve plate next.
Then the gasket between it and the head.
Install the heads and torque them down.
And there you have it a rebuilt RV2 that will last another 50 years.
All taped up ready for SPI Epoxy Primer. Also the inlet on the other side I had already installed the fitting. This EPR valve is behind that fitting. This compressor someone had already pulled it out. With 134a this valve needs to be removed for the AC to work well. That was proven on the Coronet. It will freeze me out. It does require a cycling switch to be installed but I have not done that on the Coronet since I know what to look for when it freezes up and I shut it off manually. In the desert it is not that much of an issue with the dry air.
Converting to 134a - Mopar | Original Air Group
Hanging the the sun taking advantage of the near record heat waiting for the epoxy to be ready.
Finish up some other parts we restored a few months ago while we are at it.
Then the gasket between it and the head.
Install the heads and torque them down.
And there you have it a rebuilt RV2 that will last another 50 years.
All taped up ready for SPI Epoxy Primer. Also the inlet on the other side I had already installed the fitting. This EPR valve is behind that fitting. This compressor someone had already pulled it out. With 134a this valve needs to be removed for the AC to work well. That was proven on the Coronet. It will freeze me out. It does require a cycling switch to be installed but I have not done that on the Coronet since I know what to look for when it freezes up and I shut it off manually. In the desert it is not that much of an issue with the dry air.
Converting to 134a - Mopar | Original Air Group
Hanging the the sun taking advantage of the near record heat waiting for the epoxy to be ready.
Finish up some other parts we restored a few months ago while we are at it.
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Just like new..... Once dry we will unmask it and put it in a safe place till the engine makes it way home.
Before I order the right brush plate for the starter decided to check if the alternator parts were correct since they were ordered from the same place. I found a NOS stator AND a NOS rotor for the correct part number '72 60A alternator for $30 each. I will have less than $90 in this and have brand new windings. The one in the car was a '76 casting and the windings had been "restored" with green paint on the magnet wires that was flaking off.
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