1973 Duster 340 Torsion Bars - recommendations

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scottbak

scottbak

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So I need to replace my torsion bars. What are the stock degrees? do I need 20 Degrees, 15 degrees, etc... Right now the front end sits way too low, so I want to get some bars that I only have to adjust the LCA a little bit. Right now it is in all the way and sitting way too low. Any recommendations? Car has POL upper Control arms with stock lowers and all new bushings, end links, etc..

Thanks,

Scott
 
Degrees? No such thing. Bar diameter is increased to raise the spring rate.
If your adjuster is all the way in, your front end height should be sky-high even with wimpy 6 cylinder torsion bars. Chances are you have them installed wrong, not indexed properly.
The bars need to be installed with the control arms completely relaxed- this means loosening the nut on the pivot pin, and removing the bumpstop. Back off on the adjuster bolt as far as you can. With the control arms as far down as they go, grease the sockets and bar hexes and slide in your torsion bars and install the clips. Now turn in your adjusters until the hex is roughly even with the bottom of the control arm, you should feel the tension build as it loads. Now set the car on the ground and finish adjusting your ride height, bouncing the car repeatedly between adjustments. Now tighten your lower pivot pin nut and reinstall your bumpstop. Recheck your height after logging a few miles.
And get a factory service manual- this and everything else you could possibly want to know about your car in in there. It's the best money you can spend on your car.
 
When you say indexed properly what are you referring to? I have the left in Drivers, right on passengers. Also, when I go to buy the bars, it says clocked at 15 degrees or 20, etc.. I removed them, by loosening adjuster all the way flush, remove bottom bolt of shock, push the suspension down and slide bar out using torsion tool. (Couple of taps and it slides out) Lower control arm at about 4 o'clock angle. Should I clock to the next hex? If I do, it seems like almost at 6 o'clock position seems a bit extreme on the angle to start. This is driving me crazy, which should be so simple.
 
i just recently installed firm feels 1.12 on a 68 dart, they are clocked at 2 or 3 degrees which guy at firm feel told me was stock.set lower control at about 4 or 8 oclock adjuters backed off bar's slid right in. when you run the adjuster up abought 3/4 in hangin below LCA is where it comes on to the torsion bar, with the floor jack under the LCA holding it up it is now at 3 oclock. with engine in sitting on the ground that 3/4 turned up almost flush will be perfect.my guess is that 15 or 20 degrees is your problem if you think about it IT HAS TO GO SOMEWHERE.
 
Are your existing bars in properly?

Personally I'd put at a minimum 1" bars in the *****.
 
Are you looking to install new torsion bars, or, just get yours to work better? What are the numbers off the end of your bars?
 
scottbak said:
When you say indexed properly what are you referring to? I have the left in Drivers, right on passengers. Also, when I go to buy the bars, it says clocked at 15 degrees or 20, etc.. I removed them, by loosening adjuster all the way flush, remove bottom bolt of shock, push the suspension down and slide bar out using torsion tool. (Couple of taps and it slides out) Lower control arm at about 4 o'clock angle. Should I clock to the next hex? If I do, it seems like almost at 6 o'clock position seems a bit extreme on the angle to start. This is driving me crazy, which should be so simple.
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Indexing refers to the flat of the hex that the lower arm is installed to. If you can slide the torsion bar out with the lca at four o'clock, then you need to clock it to the next hex. The lca won't be at six o'clock, but close.
 
I’m using PST 1.03” bars and am very happy with them. Good luck. Follow the FSM and follow the professors guidance and you’ll be good.
 
You guys got me thinking...I'm putting the front end back together on our 69 cuda(more appealing to sell) and put original 340 tbars back in. Wondering if I should put new in..:BangHead:
Shipping to us in Canada is or can be just foolish.....
 
I doubt that will raise the price of the car enough to justify the expense.
 
That's a driver side .87 diameter. Stock for heavy duty suspension like what you would see on a 273 4bbl or 340 car.
 
Lowcar said:
i just recently installed firm feels 1.12 on a 68 dart, they are clocked at 2 or 3 degrees which guy at firm feel told me was stock.set lower control at about 4 or 8 oclock adjuters backed off bar's slid right in. when you run the adjuster up abought 3/4 in hangin below LCA is where it comes on to the torsion bar, with the floor jack under the LCA holding it up it is now at 3 oclock. with engine in sitting on the ground that 3/4 turned up almost flush will be perfect.my guess is that 15 or 20 degrees is your problem if you think about it IT HAS TO GO SOMEWHERE.
Click to expand...
So I just pulled the Drivers side one out of the LCA and tried to get to the next HEX and it would end up at 6 o'clock to put bar back in. Firstly, I took out the adjust bar and screw and then turned the head of it down until the bar started to go in and I think it would be next to impossible to get the LCA to go at 90+ degrees straight down without taking everything off, but even then that seems a little extreme. I would think if I did this and put the car down I would be way to high without even the adjuster in it! LOL
 
Sight down the bar. IIRC, the 6 flats on each end should line up and be even with each other with no tension on them. If the bar is fatigued, it will be slightly twisted and the ends will be off from each other.
 
cudamark said:
Sight down the bar. IIRC, the 6 flats on each end should line up and be even with each other with no tension on them. If the bar is fatigued, it will be slightly twisted and the ends will be off from each other.
Click to expand...
Yeah they are not flat side down on both ends, with the back sitting flat on concrete, front is turned. But the PST 1.03's I had also had a turn at 20 degrees, I just ordered the sway away 1.08's and they are spec'd at 15 degrees, so maybe that would allow me to slide in with LCA at about 4-5 o'clock (looking from front of car down drivers side), that I can manage to get in, I hope. :)
 
scottbak said:
Yeah they are not flat side down on both ends, with the back sitting flat on concrete, front is turned. But the PST 1.03's I had also had a turn at 20 degrees, I just ordered the sway away 1.08's and they are spec'd at 15 degrees, so maybe that would allow me to slide in with LCA at about 4-5 o'clock (looking from front of car down drivers side), that I can manage to get in, I hope. :)
Click to expand...

you have to take into consideration that 15 or 20 degrees is at the bar not at the end of the LCA. a arc is always greater at the end then at the beginning
 
scottbak said:
Ordered the 1.08's thanks for you help!!!!
Click to expand...

You're going to want to upgrade your shocks. A parts store shock can't properly dampen the 1.08 bar. It will be a rough ride. I had KYBs with the 1.08 bars and eventually upgraded to the Hotchkiss shocks. It made a huge difference. I'm sure Bilstiens would work as well.
 
racerjoe said:
You're going to want to upgrade your shocks. A parts store shock can't properly dampen the 1.08 bar. It will be a rough ride. I had KYBs with the 1.08 bars and eventually upgraded to the Hotchkiss shocks. It made a huge difference. I'm sure Bilstiens would work as well.
Click to expand...
Do you have any part numbers to reference? I appreciate the guidance!!!
 
scottbak said:
Do you have any part numbers to reference? I appreciate the guidance!!!
Click to expand...
Just go to their webpage or Summit's page and search for your car. They have non-adjustable and adjustable shocks. I have the non-adjustable.
 
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