DigitalRelay
Well-Known Member
So about that wiring…
1974 Plymouth Valiant Scamp - Restoration is a strong word
- Thread starter DigitalRelay
- Start date
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LOL......Of course there are exceptions
mygasser
Well-Known Member
that's a fire waiting to happen.
That's what happened to my 75, dead short and then wiring fire. Fortunately I was right there when it started and was able to keep the damage to a minimum.
DigitalRelay
Well-Known Member
The ammeter wiring had evidence of burning up. A previous owner bypassed behind the dash. I did some further cleaning up and added another feed wire going inside the cabin. After I get the new turn signal switch installed, I plan to go through each circuit and each component. I think I've addressed all the visible wiring issues, but I'll definitely keep my eyes open for anything else.
Hidden bare wires like that are scary.
DigitalRelay
Well-Known Member
Yep, already did.
DigitalRelay
Well-Known Member
When I bought the car, the hood was not on. The right side hinge had an obvious problem, but the left was also loose, so I decided to pull the fenders (and bumper) to get a good look at both. The right side spring had become detached from the hinge. I was able to wind it back on with a vice grip. I then noticed a bend in the hinge, so I pulled it off and straightened it out. As I worked the hinge by hand, it looked like the spring was starting to creep off the pin, so I drilled a small hole through that pin and inserted a nail as a cotter pin to keep the spring from coming off. I think the bent hinge was likely forcing that spring off the pin. Hopefully, straightening the hinge solved it, but I figured a cotter pin wouldn't hurt. I don't love the amount of play both hinges have, but I'm not sure how to address that. My plan now is to reinstall the hood with the fenders off and see how everything works before I decide if it's good enough, or if I need to fix or replace the hinges. While removing things, I discovered I needed new rocker molding clips, headlight adjusters, and I'm missing a shift linkage bushing. More parts ordered.
DigitalRelay
Well-Known Member
The hood is back on, and the hinges are lubricated, but I'm going to pick up some nylon washers to try and take up some of the slack before I try to lower the hood.
Last night, I pulled the front bumper reinforcement off the car and chopped 35 lbs of it away. Then, I pulled the front shock bumper mounts off the car, drilled them and let the oil drain. This morning, I cut the shocks open, threw away the springs and pistons so I can tuck the bumper in about 2". Since the fenders are still off pending the hinges, I just slid the bumper in place. I think it's going to work out well.
I got new lamps and holders from the instrument panel, so I got rid of the few remaining old ones, cleaned up all the contact surfaces and put the new ones in. I hooked up a battery and tested all the lights using the pins on the PCB. While I had things apart, I cleaned up and spent a little time polishing the clear lenses. Not perfect, but definitely better.
Then I pulled the front bench seat again and used my $25 worth of universal zig zag spring supplies, an Amazon hog ring pliers, and a bunch of zip ties to cobble some support together for the driver side of the bench seat. Again, not perfect, but way better than it was. Before, I felt like I was sliding into the door.
I got the new turn signal switch installed and got the steering wheel reinstalled after cleaning the horn contacts, which were pretty dark. I tested with a multimeter and should be good to go. Next, I'll put in new lamps at all around and hook up the battery and see if they come on, or if I need to do more digging in the dash before I can put that all back together.
Last night, I pulled the front bumper reinforcement off the car and chopped 35 lbs of it away. Then, I pulled the front shock bumper mounts off the car, drilled them and let the oil drain. This morning, I cut the shocks open, threw away the springs and pistons so I can tuck the bumper in about 2". Since the fenders are still off pending the hinges, I just slid the bumper in place. I think it's going to work out well.
I got new lamps and holders from the instrument panel, so I got rid of the few remaining old ones, cleaned up all the contact surfaces and put the new ones in. I hooked up a battery and tested all the lights using the pins on the PCB. While I had things apart, I cleaned up and spent a little time polishing the clear lenses. Not perfect, but definitely better.
Then I pulled the front bench seat again and used my $25 worth of universal zig zag spring supplies, an Amazon hog ring pliers, and a bunch of zip ties to cobble some support together for the driver side of the bench seat. Again, not perfect, but way better than it was. Before, I felt like I was sliding into the door.
I got the new turn signal switch installed and got the steering wheel reinstalled after cleaning the horn contacts, which were pretty dark. I tested with a multimeter and should be good to go. Next, I'll put in new lamps at all around and hook up the battery and see if they come on, or if I need to do more digging in the dash before I can put that all back together.
DigitalRelay
Well-Known Member
I went out of town for a bit, but when I’ve had any time, I’ve been struggling with turn signal switch wiring issues. Flashing in the rear when it’s not supposed to. I have a separate thread on that. Today, I decided to clean up some of the hacked ignition wiring.
We don’t need ALL these wires. Probably.
We don’t need ALL these wires. Probably.
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DigitalRelay
Well-Known Member
I planned to change brake fluid, but the driver front wasn’t flowing, so tried blowing the lines out, but decided to just pull the wheel cylinder and take a good look. To me, it looks like someone did a brake job 10-15 years ago, then parked the car. The fluid is nasty, but the components, even the rubber seals seem very good after cleaning.
varlo
Joe- Long Island, Oakdale
Nice! Keep after it. Great work
DigitalRelay
Well-Known Member
That "brake fluid change" went really sideways, and I ended up removing 3 of the 4 corners because they had problems, or something looked suspect. Two corners had the shoes reversed, and 3 of the wheel cylinders had evidence of prior leaks and I couldn't tell if they had been rebuilt or not, so I pulled them apart. Then I noticed the master cylinder was dirty as hell, so I pulled that too, disassembled, cleaned, honed and put it back together. There was some pitting inside, but I think it cleared the path of the seals. I'll keep and eye on it just in case. The braking system is all back together, wheel bearings re-packed and all the bleeders are slightly cracked open so they can gravity bleed. Maybe. If that doesn't work, which I'm not super hopeful, I'll enlist some help from my kid tomorrow.
On my only drive around the block a month ago, I heard a scraping sound from under the car. I'm almost certain is was the right rear brakes. The parking brake bracket, spring and retainer were all floating in the drum and showed signs of scraping.
I also removed the dash pad. That was fun. /s I carved my arms up pretty good in the process. I may take my time figuring out if I want to source a new one, a repop, or try some DIY method.
Tomorrow, I'll get the turn signal switch installed, and I'll temp hook up the instrument panel to see what does or doesn't work.
On my only drive around the block a month ago, I heard a scraping sound from under the car. I'm almost certain is was the right rear brakes. The parking brake bracket, spring and retainer were all floating in the drum and showed signs of scraping.
I also removed the dash pad. That was fun. /s I carved my arms up pretty good in the process. I may take my time figuring out if I want to source a new one, a repop, or try some DIY method.
Tomorrow, I'll get the turn signal switch installed, and I'll temp hook up the instrument panel to see what does or doesn't work.
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mygasser
Well-Known Member
with the dash pad out of the car you'd be able to make a really neat job of fitting a dash cap. you'd have good access all round unlike when it's in the car so the fit could be fettled much easier/nicer.
neil.
neil.
Where did you get the zig zag springs, I need some
DigitalRelay
Well-Known Member
It’s a couch repair kit from Amazon.
House2Home 25" Couch Spring... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TKDDJGD?tag=fabo03-20
DigitalRelay
Well-Known Member
I spent hours trouble shooting wiring today. After fixing my cheap Chinese turn signal switch the other day, I got it installed, but I was getting some weird behavior. Flashing, no instrument panel lights. I pulled the headlight switch out, then disassembled it and cleaned everything. I lost a spring and ball bearing pulling it apart, so I had to scavenge my electronic parts bin for a small spring that I cut in half and made work, and then a found an odd wheel bearing from a moped or something that I took apart just to rob one ball bearing. It worked! The map light switch was wonky, so I pulled that apart too and cleaned it up. It feels way better now. Same with the door switches.
After all that, I still had some odd stuff going on with the instrument lighting. Also, I was getting 12v at the red wire on the headlight switch connector, but I couldn't use it to light a lamp. It was so weird. The black light would light the lamp no problem, but even though the red wire was showing the same voltage, it would not light the lamp. I thought I was losing my mind for a bit. I decided to pull and clean every fuse and fuse terminal on the block. I also found a ground wire in the trunk for the taillight harness that was loose. After all that, I could illuminate a lamp off that red wire and felt like enough was working that I could move forward.
Before I put the instrument panel back, the steering column in, the ignition switch wiring and the turn signal switch wiring, I thought it would be a good idea to change the wiper arm bushings since at least one was missing. Bad idea. Even taking the arm out of the car and trying to press it in with a socket and clamp, I couldn't get the damn thing in. So after 45 minutes or so, I resigned to kick that down the road and put the interior back together. While doing so, I discovered the horn works!! It had not before. Once I buttoned everything up, I tested for all lights. Everything but the right side low beam headlight works (I put on the high beams for the photo), and I knew that one had a bad terminal. A replacement is on the way. Turn signals work, side markers work. I did not test emergency flashers because I robbed that flasher for the turn signal circuit, and because I had so many struggles with the hazard switch on the cheap turn signal switch, I didn't want to deal with it anyway.
The brake system is all assembled back on the car, but the bleeding process didn't go great with my helper. I'll probably give that another go tomorrow though.
After all that, I still had some odd stuff going on with the instrument lighting. Also, I was getting 12v at the red wire on the headlight switch connector, but I couldn't use it to light a lamp. It was so weird. The black light would light the lamp no problem, but even though the red wire was showing the same voltage, it would not light the lamp. I thought I was losing my mind for a bit. I decided to pull and clean every fuse and fuse terminal on the block. I also found a ground wire in the trunk for the taillight harness that was loose. After all that, I could illuminate a lamp off that red wire and felt like enough was working that I could move forward.
Before I put the instrument panel back, the steering column in, the ignition switch wiring and the turn signal switch wiring, I thought it would be a good idea to change the wiper arm bushings since at least one was missing. Bad idea. Even taking the arm out of the car and trying to press it in with a socket and clamp, I couldn't get the damn thing in. So after 45 minutes or so, I resigned to kick that down the road and put the interior back together. While doing so, I discovered the horn works!! It had not before. Once I buttoned everything up, I tested for all lights. Everything but the right side low beam headlight works (I put on the high beams for the photo), and I knew that one had a bad terminal. A replacement is on the way. Turn signals work, side markers work. I did not test emergency flashers because I robbed that flasher for the turn signal circuit, and because I had so many struggles with the hazard switch on the cheap turn signal switch, I didn't want to deal with it anyway.
The brake system is all assembled back on the car, but the bleeding process didn't go great with my helper. I'll probably give that another go tomorrow though.
DigitalRelay
Well-Known Member
As I'm getting closer to this thing being able to hit the road again, and after spending so much time in the cabin tracking down electrical issues, I decided it was time to make the environment nicer by wire brushing the rust and hitting it all with a rust converter. I then test fitted my new ACC molded carpet and watched a few videos to better prepare for installation. But watching the videos made me think doing some sound deadening would be a good idea. So I jumped on Amazon and bought a box of Siless 80 mil mats and a roller. That was a pretty easy job, except for the weird angles you need to get your body in under the dash, and the awkward kneeling on the floor. I threw the carpet in to test fit and let the AZ summer heat in my garage help it find its new home. Trimming the carpet is next, followed by cleaning the seats and trim pieces before installation.
I didn't get a good shot of this, but while treating the floor I found an extra hole a few inches away from one of the seat mounting holes on the passenger side. It looked like at some point in the last 50 years someone ran over a pipe or rebar or something and it kicked back up into the car leaving what looked almost like a 3/4" knockout on a metal electrical box. I was able to pry, bend and hammer it back mostly into shape the cover the hole, then applied some JB weld to seal it off. There were also a couple of areas toward the front of the floor where the surface rust graduated into real rust and I could see a pinhole of daylight. Those also got some JB weld. Will I properly address the few areas of rust on the car someday? Maybe. I figure as long as the car stays in the southwest, it'll be a long time before it's a real problem.
For fun, I wanted to hear the car run again, so I just turned the key and it immediately fired up and idled smoothly with no additional input. Then I doublechecked all the lights, since I had also just replaced that bad headlight, and everything works. Even the hazards! The other day, I found the dome light lamp inside the glove box. It looked like it had been submerged in rusty water for 10 years. I cleaned it up with a wire brush, cleaned the terminals, reinstalled the dome light, and popped in the lamp. It also works!
Still on my short list to be able to drive:
- bleed brakes
- install "new" power steering pump (the car came with 2 pumps. One installed with no pulley. The other in the trunk with a damaged pulley - looks like they tried to pry it off with a vice grips)
- wheels and tires. The car came with 5x4 steelies up front, 5x4.5 Cragar GTs on the rear. All tires dry rotted terribly.
I didn't get a good shot of this, but while treating the floor I found an extra hole a few inches away from one of the seat mounting holes on the passenger side. It looked like at some point in the last 50 years someone ran over a pipe or rebar or something and it kicked back up into the car leaving what looked almost like a 3/4" knockout on a metal electrical box. I was able to pry, bend and hammer it back mostly into shape the cover the hole, then applied some JB weld to seal it off. There were also a couple of areas toward the front of the floor where the surface rust graduated into real rust and I could see a pinhole of daylight. Those also got some JB weld. Will I properly address the few areas of rust on the car someday? Maybe. I figure as long as the car stays in the southwest, it'll be a long time before it's a real problem.
For fun, I wanted to hear the car run again, so I just turned the key and it immediately fired up and idled smoothly with no additional input. Then I doublechecked all the lights, since I had also just replaced that bad headlight, and everything works. Even the hazards! The other day, I found the dome light lamp inside the glove box. It looked like it had been submerged in rusty water for 10 years. I cleaned it up with a wire brush, cleaned the terminals, reinstalled the dome light, and popped in the lamp. It also works!
Still on my short list to be able to drive:
- bleed brakes
- install "new" power steering pump (the car came with 2 pumps. One installed with no pulley. The other in the trunk with a damaged pulley - looks like they tried to pry it off with a vice grips)
- wheels and tires. The car came with 5x4 steelies up front, 5x4.5 Cragar GTs on the rear. All tires dry rotted terribly.
Progress! It always feels good to see the results of your efforts.
DigitalRelay
Well-Known Member
The interior is back together and it is fabulous. Not perfect. But fabulous.
Looking good!
Nice progress! I applaud you for just jumping in with both feet. A lot of guys on here would just crawl into the corner and cry trying to figure out some of the stuff you've done but you just did it. Kudos to you sir! It needs some work, but I'm confident you can do it! What are your plans? Do you plan to keep the slant 6? It sounds really good.
DigitalRelay
Well-Known Member
Thank you so much!! I've been working on cars for a long time, but I feel like the internet has made it easier to access resources on how to do things, which gives me confidence that there is very little on a car most of us couldn't figure out given enough time and patience.
My plan is to keep it as a driver/cruiser and keep the Slant 6. It really does sound good, and although more power is appealing, I know I'd almost never use it anyway. I also find the Slant 6 a super interesting engine. I'm kind of anxious to get the car to the point of being a safe and legal driving vehicle, but I think after that, I'll slowly address areas and components. The wiper motor needs new wiring, the radio seems to have an internal short, the dash pad is shot, the front seat needs new foam and a cover, the trunk metal patch work is a mess, I think there was a leak in the rear window, cranking windows is difficult, etc.
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