(2)450 DP's vs (2)750 DP's

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I wouldn’t worry too much about the tilt. While you’re driving the fuel in the bowls is far from static in level and always moving around. When you’re on the gas hard (when all of this tuning really matters) all of the fuel will be crammed one way in the primary and one way in the secondary. Make sure the jets are always in liquid and forget about it. Don’t overthink it.
 
I wouldn’t worry too much about the tilt. While you’re driving the fuel in the bowls is far from static in level and always moving around. When you’re on the gas hard (when all of this tuning really matters) all of the fuel will be crammed one way in the primary and one way in the secondary. Make sure the jets are always in liquid and forget about it. Don’t overthink it.
Thanks for the input, you could probably smell the gear oil burning in my head from thinking and rethinking this notion! LOL
 
I’ll say it again. A .033 MAB is bigger than any Holley built before they crapped the bed.

As that gets bigger you will be richer sooner and leaner later.

And it doesn’t take much to make a move. You can see this easily on the dyno.

What happens is once the MAB is that big, it causes you to do other things to get the fuel curve back in shape.

As Mattax said above .028 emulsion holes is as big as I ever go. Tunnel ram stuff with small carbs OR a quality annular booster may only want one emulsion hole of .024 size.

Tuning this stuff in the car verses a dyno is two different worlds. I would never try to do another TR without it going on the dyno.

It’s so much quicker and easier to sort it out. The relationship between the booster, MAB, the T slot restricters and throttle opening and load is near impossible to control in the car.

I know a dyno is out of the question (talking engine dyno) but even a chassis dyno would make things easier.

I can’t emphasize how critical it is to get the MAB correct and then sort out the fuel curve than to just drop a MAB in there and tune around it.

I believe that most of the horrendous tune ups I see coming in some of these carbs is directly related to MAB sizing.

The other thing is guys get hung up on numbers. Like saying a .026 MAB seems too small to me.

Or, one of my favorites from my early teens trying to explain to full grown men that your dirt bike doesn’t need to and shouldn’t be pumping black goo out of the pipe and why mine didn’t.

I ran smaller jets than they’d ever heard of so they were sure I was going to stick a piston. Their fear of a number made them do bad tuning.

To that end, main jet sizing is the same. If you get the MAB sized correctly you probably will need to reduce main jet sizing by 4-6 numbers.

It looks like my carbs are going to be in the mid to low 60’s for a primary main jet. That’s on a 1.410 X 1.750 carb that SHOULD be in the low to mid 70’s.

That’s because the MAB is .026 and that’s probably a bit big. For now that’s where I’m starting.

Add to that Mark Whitener’s boosters and I can run jets that small and not be lean.

Fuel distribution is generally better with smaller jets IF YOU DONT NEED THE FUEL.

And don’t forget to get the PV open sooner when reducing MAB sizing if you need to cover a home in the fuel curve.
 
Ok @Newbomb Turk ,I’m thinking out loud here. Suppose a guy was to take the swing and put .026 MAB’s in his carbs. And he jetted down say 4 numbers. And suppose he decided to decrease his emulsion down to say one .024 bleed. Where would you suggest he start? Above, at, or below float level. I was thinking he may want to start in the middle, right about float level. As I understand it that would likely help start the flow earlier than above float level. What are your thoughts?

Edit: when I say middle I’m referring to the top emulsion hole, as the kill bleed would be higher.

And I don’t want to exclude any other folks from their input. All thoughts and ideas are welcomed..
 
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Have you tried more main jet as a test to see if the area that you suspect is too lean really wants more fuel? I'm not saying this will be your permanent fix but it might help determine what the motor wants first, then you can come up with a strategy to fix it.
 
Have you tried more main jet as a test to see if the area that you suspect is too lean really wants more fuel? I'm not saying this will be your permanent fix but it might help determine what the motor wants first, then you can come up with a strategy to fix it.
Haven’t tried anything yet, just asking questions.
 
10-4. I love a good mystery. Waiting for the next clue to see how you solve this.
 
Update: Went ahead and swapped the primary mains from 55 to 60 and here are the results. About the same until 40mph where she started trending the polar opposite direction from before. Also shows fat 12afr under light acceleration above 11” of vacuum, before the PV opens. When the PV opens she gets pig fat at less than 10 on the AFR. Did a short WOT and she went really rich 10 AFR and trended leaner as the rpm increased. Got as high as 13 but didn’t notice the RPM just let off because of traffic.

So one would say she wanted more fuel fore sure. Now to figure out the best way to get all of it to work. The .026 MAB might be a legitimate way to approach the solution, maybe try a smaller jet. I believe I have some 57’s. Although that won’t help the trending leaner at WOT. One thing at a time Mark! :BangHead: LOL Here is a pic of my notes.

image.jpg
 
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Ok last update of the day, too hot in garage to enjoy going any further.
I went ahead and put the 57 jets in. I also put the .070 IAB’s back in. Idle just seemed a little “muddy” if that makes sense. Grabbed my notebook and went back out. Only one problem, I left my pen on the bench. Anyway seems to be better. Tried to take a video while driving but have yet to look at it for any possible data from it. Not real thrilled with the idle and steady low speed, idle to say 25-30mph but it’s not terrible. I may have a sync problem with the carbs. I’ll look into that in the morning. Bottom line, the jury is still out. It’s 100% drivable, reliable, strong in acceleration, just doesn’t seem right for some reason.
 
After reviewing video.
Idle still in the 12’s
40 mph 14.5 afr
45 mph 14.2-14.5 afr
65 mph 14.5-15 afr
78 mph 13-14 afr not consistent
Moderate acceleration w/PV open 11-12 afr
WOT 13

Again it feels strong under acceleration but everything else……meh
 
Ok last update of the day, too hot in garage to enjoy going any further.
I went ahead and put the 57 jets in. I also put the .070 IAB’s back in. Idle just seemed a little “muddy” if that makes sense. Grabbed my notebook and went back out. Only one problem, I left my pen on the bench. Anyway seems to be better. Tried to take a video while driving but have yet to look at it for any possible data from it. Not real thrilled with the idle and steady low speed, idle to say 25-30mph but it’s not terrible. I may have a sync problem with the carbs. I’ll look into that in the morning. Bottom line, the jury is still out. It’s 100% drivable, reliable, strong in acceleration, just doesn’t seem right for some reason.


I think you might be surprised how little the carbs can be out of time and have it affect the tune up.

I thin before I spent more time chasing this relatively low speed drivability issue I would get the unisync and carb hat and get the carbs timed up.

Once you do that it may change the way it drives.

I wish I knew the science behind what happens when the carbs are out of time but I haven't a clue. At my age I'm probably not going to bother learning it.

I'm just know how important it is.
 
I think you might be surprised how little the carbs can be out of time and have it affect the tune up.

I thin before I spent more time chasing this relatively low speed drivability issue I would get the unisync and carb hat and get the carbs timed up.

Once you do that it may change the way it drives.

I wish I knew the science behind what happens when the carbs are out of time but I haven't a clue. At my age I'm probably not going to bother learning it.

I'm just know how important it is.
I’ll take care of that in the morning. Thanks for the input.
 
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