200R4 update

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Daaaaannnngggggg...... Now ik why I wanna go with a Slant 6 with a mild turbo in front of a 200r4... Lol!
 
mhuppertz said:
That's pretty horrendous mileage. I read the entire thread and didn't find what cam and specs you are running. Must have a crapload of overlap.
Thanks for the great post.
Click to expand...

Here is what I have:
1992 magnum block
scat 4" stroke crank
Scat forged i-beam rods
Diamond flat top pistons (11.8:1 compression)
total seal rings
Engine Pro main, rod, Cam bearings
Fluid damper
cloyes double roller timing set
Cometic head gaskets
Edelbrock performer rpm heads (gasket matched w/ light porting)
Smith bros pushrods
Comp 1.5 ratio shaft mount billet roller rockers
comp hydraulic roller lifters
Comp Cam
242/248 Dur@ .050, .3660/.3630 lift @ .050, 112° lobe sep. 549/544 gross valve lift
Comp valve springs, retainers, keepers, locators
ARP head studs
ARP bolts used throughout
melling hv oil pump
Edelbrock RPM Air Gap intake
MSD Pro Billet distributor
bronze dist gear
Taylor wires and looms
New ngk plugs
Holley 750dp mech secondary manual choke
Mopar MSD 6 Ignition box
Blaster2 Coil
Adjustable rev limiter

It is a beast and it will never get good mileage. Original dyno was 498 peak hp and 528 ft/lb torque. I have done a little to it and figure it is low 500's now.
 
Must be the carburetor. I run Edelbrock/Carter because they are so much more fuel efficient on the street and still run hard.
 
Hate to stray from the original topic, but if I wanted to use a 200R4 behind a stock Magnum 5.9 (externally balanced), how hard would it be to either procure a custom flexplate to mate the two together, OR redrill the Magnum flexplate to match the necessary 200R4 torque convertor? Anyone been down this road, or something similar?

I'm getting a 120K Magnum 5.9 that I don't want to disassemble and internally balance, and trying to figure out the best/easiest way to do this.

Sorry to step on toes -- I can start a new thread if necessary.
 
If you contact wilcap, they sell the adapter with the required/correct flexplate for your motor.
 
No problems asking here. I relates to the thread and may help someone else looking to do the swap. There are threads you can search for about flexplate issues. Otherwise, Summit has them, Art Carr has them, or you can get a weighted converter. I bought my original non weighted stall converter from a local converter source pretty cheaply. I got my 200R4 converter right from Art Carr. The way the flex plate worked on my motor was a cross shaped piece bolted to the motor and the flexplate bolted to that. If I was in your shoes I would call Summit or B&M and tell them what I am doing and ask them what you need.
 
1970Duster said:
If you contact wilcap, they sell the adapter with the required/correct flexplate for your motor.
Click to expand...

Unless I'm mistaken, the flexplate they offer is for an LA 360, not the Magnum 5.9. But you're right, them may offer or be able to build a 5.9 version.

Just trying to gather info here before I start calling vendors. At my job, internet time is easy. Time for phone calls is hard.
 
vynn3 said:
Unless I'm mistaken, the flexplate they offer is for an LA 360, not the Magnum 5.9. But you're right, them may offer or be able to build a 5.9 version.

Just trying to gather info here before I start calling vendors. At my job, internet time is easy. Time for phone calls is hard.
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I'm using the Wilcap kit with my 5.9 magnum / 2004r combo. Very very nice kit. I had to provide a stock flex plate for the balance, but they should have that info on file now.

The kit is 100% bolt-on. The only modifcation needed is to grind/file the tip of the starter to clear the bell housing.
 
UOP said:
I'm using the Wilcap kit with my 5.9 magnum / 2004r combo. Very very nice kit. I had to provide a stock flex plate for the balance, but they should have that info on file now.

The kit is 100% bolt-on. The only modifcation needed is to grind/file the tip of the starter to clear the bell housing.
Click to expand...

Thanks! Exactly the info I was looking for!
 
vynn3 said:
Hate to stray from the original topic, but if I wanted to use a 200R4 behind a stock Magnum 5.9 (externally balanced), how hard would it be to either procure a custom flexplate to mate the two together, OR redrill the Magnum flexplate to match the necessary 200R4 torque convertor? Anyone been down this road, or something similar?

I'm getting a 120K Magnum 5.9 that I don't want to disassemble and internally balance, and trying to figure out the best/easiest way to do this.

Sorry to step on toes -- I can start a new thread if necessary.
Click to expand...

I PM'd UOP, but he is running a non-EFI motor that doesn't need the crank trigger windows on the flexplate. Wilcap doesn't make one either. I'm wondering if both flexplates will fit if the crank extension was cut down to accomadate the thicknes of the OE flexplate?
Has anyone ever found a solution elsewhere?
 
UOP said:
The flexplates won't stack like that.


What about installing an MSD 6AL with their sbm crank trigger kit.

http://www.msdignition.com/Products...-_Chrysler_Small_Block_Crank_Trigger_Kit.aspx
Click to expand...


The MSD crank trigger won't work with the SMPT computer.

Are you sure they won't stack, even with the crank spacer between them (crank/ to /stock flex plate/ to / spacer/ to Wilcap flexplate)?

How thick would the crank spacer have to be so the flex plates wouldn't touch? That's all it would take to make it work..
 
Ok I see what you're saying. I'm planning on changing the oil in the 7 tomorrow so I'll take a look to see if it will work.
 
jbc426 said:
The MSD crank trigger won't work with the SMPT computer.

Are you sure they won't stack, even with the crank spacer between them (crank/ to /stock flex plate/ to / spacer/ to Wilcap flexplate)?

How thick would the crank spacer have to be so the flex plates wouldn't touch? That's all it would take to make it work..
Click to expand...

Well, I went out to Pick & Pull today and did some climbing around and measuring under a few trucks with 5.9's.

The stock 5.9 SMPI (EFI) flex plate WILL fit with the kit spacer and the replacement adapter flex plate with the ring gear on it(if I cut down the spacer to allow for the thickness of the stock flex plate).

The Wilcap adapter plate that allows you to bolt the motor and trans together will NOT fit with the stock SMPI flex plate in place. The reason is they leave too much aluminum in the way.

On the TCI kit, the aluminum is removed at the back of the block, leaving plenty of room for the stock flex plate to remain. The down side is, I will have to cut and trim the large square TCI adapter myself. A small price to pay to have a 4 speed overdrive automatic that take a fraction of the power to drive compared to a 500 or 518.

From what I've found on the internet, the 200r4 will cost me 1/2 a second in the quarter mile versus the 1 & 1/2 seconds in the quarter that the 518 will cost me, plus it requires a lot less surgery to the car.
 
I used the TCI adapter. I would have to measure to be exact, but I would guess 3/8" I mounted everything together and sprayed some paint around the block onto the adapter plate and then cut it to fit. It is billet and was a ***** to cut, but once it's done, you will have the size you want. Look at reply numbers 61 and 76 for pics of the adapter plate and the cut down version. If anyone really needs to know, I can measure the thickness.
 
I was asking about the crank spacer. Sorry, should have been more clear. My issue is that I need to cut it down to allow for the added thickness the factory EFI tone-ring flexplate will add to the installed kit.
 
I called two places that sell the TCI small block mopar spacer/adapter, they all said 1/4" aluminum. It looked thicker than that in the pics that "Mopar to ya" posted. It's really important because the thinner the spacer the less you have to cut out of the upper trans cross member.
It would be nice if Mopar to ya checked his (or anyone else who has used the TCI) for the exact dimension. I'm going with the TCI simply because the others are thicker. When I mocked-up my 200R4 I used a 1/4" spacer to get the trans mount dimensions from the trans face. If it's not 1/4" then I need to know fast!!
As you can see in these pics...I'm mocking it up right now.

Treblig
 

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I am finally in the beginning stages of building a 408 stroker motor to replace my junk yard Magnum with modified factory EFI and 727 in my 68 Barracuda. It looks like a lot of the parts will get here while I'm down at Spring Fling in LA, so the project will begin in mid-April.

After stumbling on the Extreme Automatics web sit (http://www.extremeautomatics.net/), I learned that you can order a modified 200R4 with an adaptor ring that allows you to bolt up a Reid Racings bellhousing. Its the same bellhousing that fits the Powerglides and TH400 GM transmissions. It's just over $600 to mill off the cast bellhousing, fit the adaptor ring and cover the cost of the SFI rated bellhousing, which is smaller than the factory 200R4 cast bellhousing.

This eliminates having to use the Willcap version of the adapter kit, which makes it a lot easier to bolt everything up and then concern yourself with the minor cross member and transmission mount modifications. Once everything arrives, I'll post some pictures of the transmission with the new bellhousing, adaptor ring and torque converter all fitted together.

This development makes the project a lot more friendly for us Mopar engine people. By the way, they also have bellhousings available for Big Blocks and the Gen 3 Hemi's.

Remember, this transmission is a one wire hook-up to get a lock-up torque converter, 2.76 to one 1st gear transmission with a .67 overdrive that can be ordered to handle up to 1000 hp in the stage 3 configuration.

All that's left for an install is some minor trimming and fabrication of a new transmission cross member and modifying a few other connections such as cooler lines, shifter and Throttle valve.

As far as the torque converter goes, you can get a cheaper $200 to $400 custom lock-up torque converters that will bolt up, but I ordered a heavier duty race style 3000 stall, 3 disc lock-up converter from Precision Torque Converters. It has a 3 clutch lock-up, billet engine side plate, anti-ballon plates and fully furnace brazed inards. It's got the Mopar bolt pattern to attach to my Magnum tone ring flexplate, the pilot is Mopar sized and it has the Mopar sized ring gear for the starter. The transmission side is GM. This little gem cost me $800. From what I've learned on the forums, money spent on a good torque converter is money well spent.

I bought the stage 2 200R4 from Lonny at Extreme Automatics. Its rated at 750 hp, but I'm only building my 408 for 500hp/ 500 trq.

I will post pic of the install and any modifications to the rear cross member and the peripheral hook-ups when the job begins.
 
jbc426 said:
I am finally in the beginning stages of building a 408 stroker motor to replace my junk yard Magnum with modified factory EFI and 727 in my 68 Barracuda. It looks like a lot of the parts will get here while I'm down at Spring Fling in LA, so the project will begin in mid-April.

After stumbling on the Extreme Automatics web sit (http://www.extremeautomatics.net/), I learned that you can order a modified 200R4 with an adaptor ring that allows you to bolt up a Reid Racings bellhousing. Its the same bellhousing that fits the Powerglides and TH400 GM transmissions. It's just over $600 to mill off the cast bellhousing, fit the adaptor ring and cover the cost of the SFI rated bellhousing, which is smaller than the factory 200R4 cast bellhousing.

This eliminates having to use the Willcap version of the adapter kit, which makes it a lot easier to bolt everything up and then concern yourself with the minor cross member and transmission mount modifications. Once everything arrives, I'll post some pictures of the transmission with the new bellhousing, adaptor ring and torque converter all fitted together.

This development makes the project a lot more friendly for us Mopar engine people. By the way, they also have bellhousings available for Big Blocks and the Gen 3 Hemi's.

Remember, this transmission is a one wire hook-up to get a lock-up torque converter, 2.76 to one 1st gear transmission with a .67 overdrive that can be ordered to handle up to 1000 hp in the stage 3 configuration.

All that's left for an install is some minor trimming and fabrication of a new transmission cross member and modifying a few other connections such as cooler lines, shifter and Throttle valve.

As far as the torque converter goes, you can get a cheaper $200 to $400 custom lock-up torque converters that will bolt up, but I ordered a heavier duty race style 3000 stall, 3 disc lock-up converter from Precision Torque Converters. It has a 3 clutch lock-up, billet engine side plate, anti-ballon plates and fully furnace brazed inards. It's got the Mopar bolt pattern to attach to my Magnum tone ring flexplate, the pilot is Mopar sized and it has the Mopar sized ring gear for the starter. The transmission side is GM. This little gem cost me $800. From what I've learned on the forums, money spent on a good torque converter is money well spent.

I bought the stage 2 200R4 from Lonny at Extreme Automatics. Its rated at 750 hp, but I'm only building my 408 for 500hp/ 500 trq.

I will post pic of the install and any modifications to the rear cross member and the peripheral hook-ups when the job begins.
Click to expand...
Interesting information
 
1970Duster said:
Interesting information
Click to expand...

Thanks. I see it more as breaking news. and a fresh direction for many A body, b-body and even e-body guys who want to bolt in a transmission that requires a only minor massage to fit, but that also includes the benefits of well-built reliable up to 1000 horsepower .67 overdrive, 2.76 to 1 1st gear ratio, 4-speed automatic coupled to a serious lock up converter that doesn't require a computer to run. Can you say money saving and reliable?

This combo is going to break the comeback of Keisler all on its own. Its shareware. We all benefit!!!

More to follow!
 
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