jbc426
Well-Known Member
This is an old thread. I've since installed the 200R4 with lock-up converter hooked to a 480 hp, 408" stroked 5.9 Magnum.
I'm getting mid to high teens around town and low 20's on the freeway with 3.91 gears at 70 mph.
200R4 update
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This is an old thread. I've since installed the 200R4 with lock-up converter hooked to a 480 hp, 408" stroked 5.9 Magnum.
I'm getting mid to high teens around town and low 20's on the freeway with 3.91 gears at 70 mph.
This is a Great writeup, very informative. If it's still active, I've a question. If the transmission were moved forward, would it fit better and perhaps not have to cut the upper crossmember. Maybe move the engine forward some? Just getting ideas for my build. Thanks.
Treblig
Well-Known Member
If you move the transmission forward you have to move the engine forward. All in all, using the TCI adapter (which is the thinnest one) you'd still have to move the engine and trans forward about 2 inches so that you wouldn't need to cut anything. I'm not sure if you would run into interference issues with the oil pan/cross member or in other areas.
Treblig
Treblig
Could the tranny be mounted lower. Say if you had frame ties on the car,could you make a new crossmember/mount that went to the frame ties instead of the torsion bar crossmember and move the tranny mount back and lower to create the required clearance without cutting the upper crossmember?
Treblig
Well-Known Member
You must always keep in mind that you have to keep the engine drive line at a certain angle 2/3 degrees (need to double check) running down hill towards the rear. It you lower the back end of the tranny you also increase the angle of the drive line unless you also lower the engine. Now if you put a level on top of your intake (without the carb) and keep that same angle you'll be OK. I have seen some people just drop the rear of tranny and not worry about the drive line angle but this will also effect your pinion angle relationship.
If I remember correctly the engine leans back so that oil will flow back into the rear of the oil pan. But the intake top surface is level (zero degrees) so the carb fuel levels are correct.
PS - you would have to lower the rear of the transmission at least 3 1/2" (approx) to clear the cross member, that's a lot.
I'm sure other folks will make better suggestions...
If you look here you can clearly see how much has to be removed from the cross member to clear the transmission (2004R)
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=252436&highlight=treblig
Treblig
joeboy
Well-Known Member
Treblig is right, gotta stick to those numbers for success. my pinion is up 3*, and I'm gonna set the transmission 3* down. They should match within 0.5*. I am using the commercial 200r4 mount from US car tools, and really it's not bad... I've done a fair amount of measuring, mock up, and did trim the new crossmember just a tiny bit to get it to fit my floor. All before I cut the old one out. The fit is really good, and the quality of the mount/crossmember are great. Don't be afraid of the mods for sure... Mines just tacked in, but after a test-fit I will weld the rest, and I have no doubt of its strength as a replacement for the torsion bar crossmember. Once it's welded then it's final assembly and go time!!
View attachment image.jpg
View attachment image.jpg
joeboy
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Red383
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It looks like the 2004R is 28.25" long from the bellhousing mounting surface to the tail of the transmission.
I think it might be helpful to get the lengths including the:
TCI adapter
Wilcap adapter
Reid Racing bellhousing
Can anyone provide these dimensions?
I think it might be helpful to get the lengths including the:
TCI adapter
Wilcap adapter
Reid Racing bellhousing
Can anyone provide these dimensions?
Treblig
Well-Known Member
I documented the thickness of the TCI and Wilcap adapters in my thread. I also documented the lengths of the 904 VS 2004R:
Will GM 200r4 work with factory floor shift location?
Treblig
I'll measure my 200-R4 with the Reid Racing bellhousing after work tonight. Mine is with the Reid Racing bellhousing as received from Extreme Automatics.
My 200-R4 with the Reid Racing bellhousing is 27.25" from the bellhousing mounting surface to the tail of the transmission.
Individual setups may differ because the stock bellhousing is cut off the the stock transmission and the cut area machined so the Reid bellhousing can be bolted to the transmission body.
I suggest you contact Extreme Automatics and talk to them directly.
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I'm curious as to why since you didn't go with a gm engine, you didn't just use a gearvendors overdrive? Wouldn't it have been cheaper and easier ? Just curious cause I have an A body that I want to use daily. Thanks.
Treblig
Well-Known Member
I went with 2004R because it cost me a lot less. Spent about $1800-$1900 total.
Treblig
jbc426
Well-Known Member
One of those LS4 motors with the blower would be a nice power plant, but I draw the line at using GM motors over Mopar. Transmissions and rear ends are one thing, but using a GM motor is going too far. If you are buying take-out motors, are they really that much more inexpensive anyway?
Red383
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In your thread (which I had already read through) you state:
post #271 - "the TCI adapter in 1/4" thick and I believe the wilcap is 1/2" or 5/8" thick."
post #391 - "I believe the Wilcap adapter is 3/8" thick"
I was just trying to get the actual measurements, since this will make a difference on how mush cross member will need removed.
Since you have the TCI, that would make the measurement 28.5"
Treblig
Well-Known Member
If you're talking about the trans mount location, yes it will vary depending on which adapter you use. On mine I simply got a close estimate when I mocked it up in the garage then put some slots in the trans mount surface which gave me a little leeway in both directions. The amount that you have to trim on the cross member will vary because depending on which adapter you use it will shift the transmission further and further back (TCI being the thinnest). The 2004R trans has many small protrusions on either side that you'll have to make clearance for, so depending on where the trans ends up (front to back) you'll need to trim for each individual protrusion. That's what I did so that I would not cut any more than necessary. I also (if you read my thread) reinforced the upper cross member with 1/8" steel plates by sliding them between the upper cross member and the body (then welded). This reinforcement compensated (to some degree) for the metal that I removed.
Treblig
Extreme Automatics and others are now up to 3k for 2004r's without converters.GVO is 2600.00
Wasn't meaning LS swap,just wondering about the tranny. I have s 600 hpLs3 on the stand but can't bring myself to swap it in.
Mopar to ya
Well-Known Member
Just because I haven't updated this in forever, I did have to rebuild the 200 4R after 7 years of abuse. the front pump was going and I was about two hard shifts from breaking a bunch of internals according to my friend who rebuilt it. I went with a PTC 3800 stall at that time and gained about .2 off my quarter mile times.
about a year ago I had a knocking in the motor. I pulled it and had it rebuilt. There was a vibration he believed was from the Fluid damper and my oil pick up broke in three places. There was a bunch of other stuff going on so I had it line bored and the cylinders cleaned up. All new bearings and rings, but reused the Diamond flat top pistons. Found 4 cracks in the Scat crank and replaced that. Went with a sloid lifter cam this time. I also went with nitrous this time. It got expensive, but it dyno'd at 530 hp naturally. The nitrous will add 125 more. It's going back in in a few weeks and I can't wait to drive it again and get it to the track.
about a year ago I had a knocking in the motor. I pulled it and had it rebuilt. There was a vibration he believed was from the Fluid damper and my oil pick up broke in three places. There was a bunch of other stuff going on so I had it line bored and the cylinders cleaned up. All new bearings and rings, but reused the Diamond flat top pistons. Found 4 cracks in the Scat crank and replaced that. Went with a sloid lifter cam this time. I also went with nitrous this time. It got expensive, but it dyno'd at 530 hp naturally. The nitrous will add 125 more. It's going back in in a few weeks and I can't wait to drive it again and get it to the track.
Thanks for the update. Did u keep the same converter? Kim
Mopar to ya
Well-Known Member
No, I went to a 9" 3800 stall that quickened my tunes up quite a bit.
Sweet. Kim
Mopar to ya
Well-Known Member
Yes.
Mopar to ya
Well-Known Member
Got the motor ready to go as soon as the weather warms a bit. The only video i have of the dyno is on Facebook on the builders page. Check out Wheeler Racing Engines and his videos. He mistakenly posted mine as a 409.
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