273 or NOT 273?

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If you are not building a stock or super race car where they actually check the engine, but just a fast street or bracket car I would recommend you build a 318 with a 4” stroker crankshaft or even move up to a 360.

When trying to buy a 340 short or long block your dealing against the restorers.

There is a ad here on For Abodies Only for a 340 standard bore short block asking $1500.

I have a line on a 340 long block standard bore w/X-heads for $600 locally that I’m buying.

The last time I built a 360, I got one short block engine for free and the second long block was for $100.

When I went to build my motor I found one crankshaft was cracked but the second was good so that was what I used.
 
If you are not building a stock or super race car where they actually check the engine, but just a fast street or bracket car I would recommend you build a 318 with a 4” stroker crankshaft or even move up to a 360.

When trying to buy a 340 short or long block your dealing against the restorers.

There is a ad here on For Abodies Only for a 340 standard bore short block asking $1500.

I have a line on a 340 long block standard bore w/X-heads for $600 locally that I’m buying.

The last time I built a 360, I got one short block engine for free and the second long block was for $100.

When I went to build my motor I found one crankshaft was cracked but the second was good so that was what I used.
I don't want a 4.00 inch stroke , I want to rev with a standard stroke 340 or 273. Leaning towards a 340. I already have one in my Dart and grabbed a standard bore 340 block for $250. No caps but I'm not using stock caps anyway.
 
If you are not building a stock or super race car where they actually check the engine, but just a fast street or bracket car I would recommend you build a 318 with a 4” stroker crankshaft or even move up to a 360.

When trying to buy a 340 short or long block your dealing against the restorers.

There is a ad here on For Abodies Only for a 340 standard bore short block asking $1500.

I have a line on a 340 long block standard bore w/X-heads for $600 locally that I’m buying.

The last time I built a 360, I got one short block engine for free and the second long block was for $100.

When I went to build my motor I found one crankshaft was cracked but the second was good so that was what I used.
It must have been a long time ago since you got your 360 long block for a $100. The last time I checked on getting a 5.9 magnum I was told that a rebuildable 5.9 was around $250-$300 and a running 5.9 with a warranty could bring $500 and more. I've seen LS motors with the transmission bring $1500
 
If you are not building a stock or super race car where they actually check the engine, but just a fast street or bracket car I would recommend you build a 318 with a 4” stroker crankshaft or even move up to a 360.

When trying to buy a 340 short or long block your dealing against the restorers.

There is a ad here on For Abodies Only for a 340 standard bore short block asking $1500.

I have a line on a 340 long block standard bore w/X-heads for $600 locally that I’m buying.

The last time I built a 360, I got one short block engine for free and the second long block was for $100.

When I went to build my motor I found one crankshaft was cracked but the second was good so that was what I used.
I remember back in the late 80s noone wanted small block mopar anything. It was all free or cheap except 340 .There was alot of it around and in the yards but again except for 340
 
who told you a 4" stroker won't rev??? :rofl:
That's what this thread is all about. The OP want's a high revving small block. But, just because it's a 273 doesn't mean it can, or needs to rev past 7. :lol:
 
That's what this thread is all about. The OP want's a high revving small block. But, just because it's a 273 doesn't mean it can, or needs to rev past 7. :lol:
That's how I'll build it. My current 340 shifts at 6800 , I like small block revving motors , NOT STROKERS , it's just what I like , not sure why it's such a big deal that I don't want to build a stroker like 95% of the mopars at the cruise nights I go to. I'm old school and that's my thoughts.
 
That's how I'll build it. My current 340 shifts at 6800 , I like small block revving motors , NOT STROKERS , it's just what I like , not sure why it's such a big deal that I don't want to build a stroker like 95% of the mopars at the cruise nights I go to. I'm old school and that's my thoughts.
I get it. My first 273-4 was back in 71 and at 16 I thought it ran like a scalded dog. I didn't have a tach but I bet it revved to at least 9,000. :lol:
Well may be not. My latest one I built close to original specs, advanced the cam a few degrees for more bottom end (where I spend most of my time) and it only revs to about 5500. It sounds like it's ready to take off for the moon though.
 
Never said a 4.00 won't rev , read it again , I WANT TO REV WITH A STANDARD STROKE NOT A 4.00" STROKE. Never said anything about a 4.00" stroke not revving.
ok, you don't want a stroker. but you have said you DO want a high revving small block and even with a 4" crank it's STILL a small block and will STILL rev to 7000rpm. if you don't want a high revving small block that makes lots of hp too that's fine. oh, and at less cost than a stock stroke high revving small block that makes less hp.
your choice of course :thumbsup:
 
ok, you don't want a stroker. but you have said you DO want a high revving small block and even with a 4" crank it's STILL a small block and will STILL rev to 7000rpm. if you don't want a high revving small block that makes lots of hp too that's fine. oh, and at less cost than a stock stroke high revving small block that makes less hp.
your choice of course :thumbsup:


It takes way more cylinder head to take a 4 inch crank to 7k and actually make power doing it.

I don’t consider 7k revving one up.
 
If your the average guy that wants to get the best bang for the buck stick with the KISS Method.

A 360 is the cheapest and easiest to get parts for. Just tell your friends it's a 273 and they will think it runs great.

Tom
 
If your the average guy that wants to get the best bang for the buck stick with the KISS Method.

A 360 is the cheapest and easiest to get parts for. Just tell your friends it's a 273 and they will think it runs great.

Tom
I agree. After the 318 high hp nonsense on YT its like why do people think doing it the hard way is effective? whats to prove? I mean build a 273 but dont expect much over 200 horse and be happy. Not being negative just why put all that stress on yourself...
 
ok, you don't want a stroker. but you have said you DO want a high revving small block and even with a 4" crank it's STILL a small block and will STILL rev to 7000rpm. if you don't want a high revving small block that makes lots of hp too that's fine. oh, and at less cost than a stock stroke high revving small block that makes less hp.
your choice of course :thumbsup:
OK few things , who said my 340 won't have a lot of HP? Gotta love the ignorance of the new stroker mentality. Been going 11's with a mild 340 since before stroker kits were around and I plan on building a lot more Than I have now ( I'll actually ports my heads and intake on this motor ). 2nd , biggest misconception , just because you can rev to 7k , doesn't always mean you are making power to that RPM. yeah , my 340 can rev over 7k , but why would I? I shift it at 6800 because thats where it's best shift point is. 3rd , OK , you have over 400 cu inches , congrats , last time I checked , I build what I want , not what 98% of the small block mopars build because it's "cheaper" or "Makes more power"
 
It takes way more cylinder head to take a 4 inch crank to 7k and actually make power doing it.

I don’t consider 7k revving one up.
Amen , " Oh my 416 inch " small block " revs to 7500 , meanwhile the powerband is 2800 to 6400 ,
 
If your the average guy that wants to get the best bang for the buck stick with the KISS Method.

A 360 is the cheapest and easiest to get parts for. Just tell your friends it's a 273 and they will think it runs great.

Tom
Ha Ha , yeah , I'm too honest for that lol.
 
I agree. After the 318 high hp nonsense on YT its like why do people think doing it the hard way is effective? whats to prove? I mean build a 273 but dont expect much over 200 horse and be happy. Not being negative just why put all that stress on yourself...
If only you knew what your talking about. I can get 265 hp out of a 273 with 2 barrel pistons, 920 heads, and an itty bitty Isky E-4 cam. Everything else is stock rebuilt. Just to let you know that is only 10 hp less than the 340's advertised hp. I can and have built 318's that make the same hp as a similar 340 build. A 340 block is a little stronger than a 318, but that only matters at higher hp numbers than most run.
 
I agree. After the 318 high hp nonsense on YT its like why do people think doing it the hard way is effective? whats to prove? I mean build a 273 but dont expect much over 200 horse and be happy. Not being negative just why put all that stress on yourself...
Um , factory commando 273s had 235 hp with exhaust manifolds and a 500 cfm carb and they can easily make over 300 hp with some good bolt ons. Just think if you built one from the Pan up.
 
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