MiradaMegaCab
Well-Known Member
This bolt on will fill the cylinders at any elevation even with the stock cam, taking advantage of a low CR.
Sadly enough, I'm at 6500 ft of elevation, yikes! Driving down to New Mexico is a noticable difference in power, dropping to around 2000 ft of elevation. For now, a 2800 stall will be the only hope for scavenging hp.Yeah well the '74 is a 8/1 advertised, and with the stock cam in at 108, the Wallace predicts 136psi at 800 ft, with a miserable VP of 113. But we all know that a 74 is not actually an 8/1 engine at all, plus OP's has some miles on it, so it won't be in at 108 anymore, if it ever was..
AND
OP is in Colorado!
Lets say the Ica of the stock cam is 50* and Elevation is 4000, and the Scr is 7.8; The Wallace now predicts
a paltry 113 psi/ with
a VP of an abysmal 93.
That's your baseline with the stock cam.
----------------------------------------------
Now, lets see how the Whiplash fairs
The only thing I'm gonna change is the ICA from 50*, to 55*; and I get
108psi at
86 VP
@4000ft elevation.
But suppose OP is at 1000 ft
The Wallace then predicts:
123 psi@ VP of 98
I don't care if your name is Smoky Yunich, this is a dead dog engine until it gets up on the cam, which is a 213/226/109 @.050, so it ain't happening for a long time, even with 3.55s, cuz the factory stall mightabin 2000, and now with the paltry cylinder pressure, is gonna be even less.
And OP has verified this sad situation in post #45.
There; done!
Op; you can't fix this with gears.
You can get around it with a higher stall. But that cuts into your working rpm, which then requires a cam that extends the rpm higher, which then requires another gearchange, and on and on and on.
If you are at elevation, the situation quickly makes the car
NOT a DD anymore.
In a given engine, the best way to solve this is with a higher starting cylinder pressure. and Second best is slam that intake shut sooner. You need a fast rate of lift, Solid-Lifter cam, in a smaller than normal size, which I haven't seen in a long time.
Something with an Ica close to stock of 48* and then you'll get at least your stock pressure back.
But, just to be clear
In your current set-up, the high-stall is your best bang for the buck.
When I run a 318 auto, I like my 2800; that's what I always run.
but I am at 900 ft, with a stock cam, and I run whatever gear I want, and my 318 measured 140 psi to start with. It goes like snot with 4.30s!/ not bad with 3.91s/ slowing down with 3.55s/ and with 2.76s, I manually upshift ASAP and let the Thermoquad wail to like 80mph still at 2800..................... big grins all around.
BTW,
Without regard to stall speed;
a good VP number to shoot for is like 150, but you'll never get your teener there with any reasonable cam, unless you spend a boatload of cash on machining.
But 140 is doable, and runs fairly decent.
By 130VP, she's getting lazy, and a convertor is my go-to.
By 120VP, I ain't bolting nuttin on that stone.
By 110VP, I'd be embarrassed to be seen driving it
By 98VP, she's feeling like a tired 273.
By 86VP, it's about as snappy as stock slanty, and she's a lawn-ornament.
Them there are my opinions.
Here's the thing; that Whiplash, at 213 @.050, is gonna make peak power at around 4600/4800, and peak torque maybe as early as 3100/3300
Your 1-2 shift rpm, if you outshift at 5000, will drop in at 2950, but your roadspeed might only be 40mph(with the 3.55s). So on the shift into Second/1.45 ratio, you'll be doing ~40mph @2950rpm, and with no reasonable VP forthcoming ........................... you'll be able to measure your acceleration with a sundial........ The cam will start working again at say 3600, which will be 50mph. So that makes the hole to be from 40mph to 50mph, am I right?
I'd be looking at a stall speed of between 3200 and 3600 depending on how punchy you want the 1-2 shift to be. Then I would retard that cam several degrees to pump up the useable rpm, cuz I would no longer be worried about how low the VP is going. And then I would gear the car to run out of revs at 65mph in second gear. And then I would go out and have a blast. This assumes you are at or below 1000 ft elevation.
But if at 4000 ft, or higher, I would hire Myth-Busters to see how far they can trebuchet that slug, and go build me an alloy-headed 367 that pumps out closer to 200 psi. Or better yet, a cool as a cucumber, 383/400lo-deck-stroker.
Lemmee know if you need;
>a K-member,
>a 383 core,
>a SG 8.75 with 4.88s,(that's all I still have,bigger than 3.55),
>a fat driveshaft,
>some bigger T-bars,
> factory disc-brakes
And so on, lol.
sorry no trans .......................
unless you would like a 4-speed, lol.
What would your estimation be of this combos 1/4 mile time?When I run a 318 auto, I like my 2800; that's what I always run.
but I am at 900 ft, with a stock cam, and I run whatever gear I want, and my 318 measured 140 psi to start with. It goes like snot with 4.30s!
Still it's all relative, performance is just gonna be down across the board, no matter what level of build you do.Sadly enough, I'm at 6500 ft of elevation, yikes! Driving down to New Mexico is a noticable difference in power, dropping to around 2000 ft of elevation. For now, a 2800 stall will be the only hope for scavenging hp.
Couldn't the OP just base a cam on stock or even optimal IVC and run the LSA to achieve 210-215 @ 0.050" intake duration and keep stock + V/P?Yeah well the '74 is a 8/1 advertised, and with the stock cam in at 108, the Wallace predicts 136psi at 800 ft, with a miserable VP of 113. But we all know that a 74 is not actually an 8/1 engine at all, plus OP's has some miles on it, so it won't be in at 108 anymore, if it ever was..
AND
OP is in Colorado!
Lets say the Ica of the stock cam is 50* and Elevation is 4000, and the Scr is 7.8; The Wallace now predicts
a paltry 113 psi/ with
a VP of an abysmal 93.
That's your baseline with the stock cam.
----------------------------------------------
Now, lets see how the Whiplash fairs
The only thing I'm gonna change is the ICA from 50*, to 55*; and I get
108psi at
86 VP
@4000ft elevation.
But suppose OP is at 1000 ft
The Wallace then predicts:
123 psi@ VP of 98
I don't care if your name is Smoky Yunich, this is a dead dog engine until it gets up on the cam, which is a 213/226/109 @.050, so it ain't happening for a long time, even with 3.55s, cuz the factory stall mightabin 2000, and now with the paltry cylinder pressure, is gonna be even less.
And OP has verified this sad situation in post #45.
There; done!
Op; you can't fix this with gears.
You can get around it with a higher stall. But that cuts into your working rpm, which then requires a cam that extends the rpm higher, which then requires another gearchange, and on and on and on.
If you are at elevation, the situation quickly makes the car
NOT a DD anymore.
In a given engine, the best way to solve this is with a higher starting cylinder pressure. and Second best is slam that intake shut sooner. You need a fast rate of lift, Solid-Lifter cam, in a smaller than normal size, which I haven't seen in a long time.
Something with an Ica close to stock of 48* and then you'll get at least your stock pressure back.
But, just to be clear
In your current set-up, the high-stall is your best bang for the buck.
When I run a 318 auto, I like my 2800; that's what I always run.
but I am at 900 ft, with a stock cam, and I run whatever gear I want, and my 318 measured 140 psi to start with. It goes like snot with 4.30s!/ not bad with 3.91s/ slowing down with 3.55s/ and with 2.76s, I manually upshift ASAP and let the Thermoquad wail to like 80mph still at 2800..................... big grins all around.
BTW,
Without regard to stall speed;
a good VP number to shoot for is like 150, but you'll never get your teener there with any reasonable cam, unless you spend a boatload of cash on machining.
But 140 is doable, and runs fairly decent.
By 130VP, she's getting lazy, and a convertor is my go-to.
By 120VP, I ain't bolting nuttin on that stone.
By 110VP, I'd be embarrassed to be seen driving it
By 98VP, she's feeling like a tired 273.
By 86VP, it's about as snappy as stock slanty, and she's a lawn-ornament.
Them there are my opinions.
Here's the thing; that Whiplash, at 213 @.050, is gonna make peak power at around 4600/4800, and peak torque maybe as early as 3100/3300
Your 1-2 shift rpm, if you outshift at 5000, will drop in at 2950, but your roadspeed might only be 40mph(with the 3.55s). So on the shift into Second/1.45 ratio, you'll be doing ~40mph @2950rpm, and with no reasonable VP forthcoming ........................... you'll be able to measure your acceleration with a sundial........ The cam will start working again at say 3600, which will be 50mph. So that makes the hole to be from 40mph to 50mph, am I right?
I'd be looking at a stall speed of between 3200 and 3600 depending on how punchy you want the 1-2 shift to be. Then I would retard that cam several degrees to pump up the useable rpm, cuz I would no longer be worried about how low the VP is going. And then I would gear the car to run out of revs at 65mph in second gear. And then I would go out and have a blast. This assumes you are at or below 1000 ft elevation.
But if at 4000 ft, or higher, I would hire Myth-Busters to see how far they can trebuchet that slug, and go build me an alloy-headed 367 that pumps out closer to 200 psi. Or better yet, a cool as a cucumber, 383/400lo-deck-stroker.
Lemmee know if you need;
>a K-member,
>a 383 core,
>a SG 8.75 with 4.88s,(that's all I still have,bigger than 3.55),
>a fat driveshaft,
>some bigger T-bars,
> factory disc-brakes
And so on, lol.
sorry no trans .......................
unless you would like a 4-speed, lol.
the whiplash 318 cam has a IVC of 30!!! not 50 or 55!!!Yeah well the '74 is a 8/1 advertised, and with the stock cam in at 108, the Wallace predicts 136psi at 800 ft, with a miserable VP of 113. But we all know that a 74 is not actually an 8/1 engine at all, plus OP's has some miles on it, so it won't be in at 108 anymore, if it ever was..
AND
OP is in Colorado!
Lets say the Ica of the stock cam is 50* and Elevation is 4000, and the Scr is 7.8; The Wallace now predicts
a paltry 113 psi/ with
a VP of an abysmal 93.
That's your baseline with the stock cam.
----------------------------------------------
Now, lets see how the Whiplash fairs
The only thing I'm gonna change is the ICA from 50*, to 55*; and I get
108psi at
86 VP
@4000ft elevation.
But suppose OP is at 1000 ft
The Wallace then predicts:
123 psi@ VP of 98
I don't care if your name is Smoky Yunich, this is a dead dog engine until it gets up on the cam, which is a 213/226/109 @.050, so it ain't happening for a long time, even with 3.55s, cuz the factory stall mightabin 2000, and now with the paltry cylinder pressure, is gonna be even less.
And OP has verified this sad situation in post #45.
There; done!
Op; you can't fix this with gears.
You can get around it with a higher stall. But that cuts into your working rpm, which then requires a cam that extends the rpm higher, which then requires another gearchange, and on and on and on.
If you are at elevation, the situation quickly makes the car
NOT a DD anymore.
In a given engine, the best way to solve this is with a higher starting cylinder pressure. and Second best is slam that intake shut sooner. You need a fast rate of lift, Solid-Lifter cam, in a smaller than normal size, which I haven't seen in a long time.
Something with an Ica close to stock of 48* and then you'll get at least your stock pressure back.
But, just to be clear
In your current set-up, the high-stall is your best bang for the buck.
When I run a 318 auto, I like my 2800; that's what I always run.
but I am at 900 ft, with a stock cam, and I run whatever gear I want, and my 318 measured 140 psi to start with. It goes like snot with 4.30s!/ not bad with 3.91s/ slowing down with 3.55s/ and with 2.76s, I manually upshift ASAP and let the Thermoquad wail to like 80mph still at 2800..................... big grins all around.
BTW,
Without regard to stall speed;
a good VP number to shoot for is like 150, but you'll never get your teener there with any reasonable cam, unless you spend a boatload of cash on machining.
But 140 is doable, and runs fairly decent.
By 130VP, she's getting lazy, and a convertor is my go-to.
By 120VP, I ain't bolting nuttin on that stone.
By 110VP, I'd be embarrassed to be seen driving it
By 98VP, she's feeling like a tired 273.
By 86VP, it's about as snappy as stock slanty, and she's a lawn-ornament.
Them there are my opinions.
Here's the thing; that Whiplash, at 213 @.050, is gonna make peak power at around 4600/4800, and peak torque maybe as early as 3100/3300
Your 1-2 shift rpm, if you outshift at 5000, will drop in at 2950, but your roadspeed might only be 40mph(with the 3.55s). So on the shift into Second/1.45 ratio, you'll be doing ~40mph @2950rpm, and with no reasonable VP forthcoming ........................... you'll be able to measure your acceleration with a sundial........ The cam will start working again at say 3600, which will be 50mph. So that makes the hole to be from 40mph to 50mph, am I right?
I'd be looking at a stall speed of between 3200 and 3600 depending on how punchy you want the 1-2 shift to be. Then I would retard that cam several degrees to pump up the useable rpm, cuz I would no longer be worried about how low the VP is going. And then I would gear the car to run out of revs at 65mph in second gear. And then I would go out and have a blast. This assumes you are at or below 1000 ft elevation.
But if at 4000 ft, or higher, I would hire Myth-Busters to see how far they can trebuchet that slug, and go build me an alloy-headed 367 that pumps out closer to 200 psi. Or better yet, a cool as a cucumber, 383/400lo-deck-stroker.
Lemmee know if you need;
>a K-member,
>a 383 core,
>a SG 8.75 with 4.88s,(that's all I still have,bigger than 3.55),
>a fat driveshaft,
>some bigger T-bars,
> factory disc-brakes
And so on, lol.
sorry no trans .......................
unless you would like a 4-speed, lol.
Are you saying AJ is wrong?????My Duster with a 318 that was 9.4-1 comp, Edelbrock heads and intake, NO whiplash cam, ran 11.70s 1/4 mile, it had to make around 300hp i figure.
what stall and gear?My Duster with a 318 that was 9.4-1 comp, Edelbrock heads and intake, NO whiplash cam, ran 11.70s 1/4 mile, it had to make around 300hp i figure.
gotta be a 6000 rpm stall and 6:33 gears its a 318 gotta wind it to heaven to make any power!! kid on a damn bicycle out pull a 318 outta the hole!!what stall and gear?
gotta be a 6000 rpm stall and 6:33 gears its a 318 gotta wind it to heaven to make any power!! kid on a damn bicycle out pull a 318 outta the hole!!
I had a 318 in my Duster, KB pistons 9.4-1 comp with stock Edelbrock heads, cam .545 lift cam, air gap intake, 430 gears, great street car! drove it to the track, full interior went 11.70s on good day and 11.80s in bad weather. 318s run great just need to have the combo right.
Convertor was a 3800, gears 4.30. I drove it to the track and drove home, car shows, grocery store, very street friendly car. 318s run good. the car went 1.62 sixty footwhat stall and gear?
Regarding the OPs question, this reply from MOPAROFFICIAL will get it done.Toss some magnum heads on it and a 340 spec cam, done.
It's heads.
I think Mopar wasn't paying attention to the OP post.Regarding the OPs question, this reply from MOPAROFFICIAL will get it done.
a stock (early) 318 makes 230 HP so i don't think there's a lot of "reworking & customizing" in the parts department to find 70 ponies.It takes a lot of reworking and customizing of parts to get 300HP from a 318.
It's no longer a 318 if it's been bored or stroked.
Hard to gain 70 with bolt on parts.a stock (early) 318 makes 230 HP so i don't think there's a lot of "reworking & customizing" in the parts department to find 70 ponies.
stroked, sure. no argument there. but a 30 over 318 is still a 318.
is a cam considered bolt on?Hard to gain 70 with bolt on parts.
Bolt on to me is any part down to the short block.Hard to gain 70 with bolt on parts.
It shouldn't beis a cam considered bolt on?