300 HP out of a 318, is it possible with bolt ons?

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273 said:
Obviously these articles like a lot of car TV shows are just basically commercials, and companies like Comp cam, Holley, Edelbrock sponsors, give free parts to these shows, just so these brand names are gonna be in the forefront of buyers minds cause there use in every build or show.
Doesn't mean the results are fake.
Click to expand...
Oh no, results aren't fake. Fudged maybe, but not faked. 400HP 318 flowing just 215CFM on the intake port? I just don't buy it. No doubt the thing screams. I don't deny that one bit. But I'll never trust any TV show or magazine article seemingly pushing parts from their sponsors.....and they were doing that, even if just a little. Now, if they would throw it in a 3400 pound Duster and run the number, then I might be on board.
 
Boy ohh boy nothing gets a response like a good 318 question.

For the supposed Rodney Dangerfield of Mopar engines, they seem to garner a ton of respect.

Look, if you wanna make some power you have to address the culprits holding it back. They're the same with every gasoline engine. You need enough flow to get to a certain power number, you need compression and/or displacement to build torque, and other bits matched to your intention, like valvetrain/intakes/exhaust.

There's no magic button (well , nitrous not withstanding) to get the combo where you want it. In my opinion you're gonna have to do some real work.

My 2c, find a relatively low mileage junkyard 5.2/5.9 out of any of a zillion trucks and swap it in. Buy a cheap intake and headers and you'll get to 300 hp or thereabouts. Throw a cam and a converter at it and things start getting serious.
 
Mean416 said:
Boy ohh boy nothing gets a response like a good 318 question.

For the supposed Rodney Dangerfield of Mopar engines, they seem to garner a ton of respect.

Look, if you wanna make some power you have to address the culprits holding it back. They're the same with every gasoline engine. You need enough flow to get to a certain power number, you need compression and/or displacement to build torque, and other bits matched to your intention, like valvetrain/intakes/exhaust.

There's no magic button (well , nitrous not withstanding) to get the combo where you want it. In my opinion you're gonna have to do some real work.

My 2c, find a relatively low mileage junkyard 5.2/5.9 out of any of a zillion trucks and swap it in. Buy a cheap intake and headers and you'll get to 300 hp or thereabouts. Throw a cam and a converter at it and things start getting serious.
Click to expand...
Convert to a slant 6 guy if you think the 318 is the Rodney Dangerfield of engines. lol
 
I think slant sixes are cool. Id like to see someone boost the snot out of one and see what they'd take, with a good safe tune on meth or e85.
 
Mean416 said:
I think slant sixes are cool. Id like to see someone boost the snot out of one and see what they'd take, with a good safe tune on meth or e85.
Click to expand...
The lack of main bearings makes me nervous with much boost on a slant.
 
15 psi of boost is basically twice the NA power, so a 150-300 hp NA /6 = 300-600 hp boosted power. Or 22 psi = 375-750 hp etc.. :)
 
toolmanmike said:
Hot Rod magazine built a 400 horse teen (supposedly) with zero deck pistons, a 230°/.512 Comp Cam The lift was using Magnum heads and their 1.6 ratio rockers. Intake was a MP open plenum with a 750 Demon etc, etc. Here's a link. I think a zero deck Teen with some mildly massaged Speedmaster heads and the right cam could get to 400 horse easily.
https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/mopp-0409-318-engine-build/
Click to expand...

RustyRatRod said:
But the 400HP 318 was measured using magazine horse power. That's different, dontchya know? lol
Click to expand...

in 2007 built exactly this motor, to the T, from the article and can confirm that it puts down 400hp. i did not spray it with laughing gas, though.

in fact, it was so nice i built it twice. i sold the car the motor was in so i built another one to put into my other, other dart. on the chassis dyno something went wrong as i went for power pulls. either a valve guide was too tight and hung an intake and it and the piston had a logistics problem or two of my push rods were too short resulting in an unplanned meeting in the cylinder.

so, off came the heads. miraculously the piston was undamaged. cracked two valve guides and bent two valves. yay. so i upped the ante and went for the RT heads and threw some harland sharp roller rockers at it while everything was apart. the single plane was fun times, but with the light weight aluminum flywheel and race clutch it was damn near undriveable in traffic, so i replaced the M1 with a performer RPM. i lost a bit on the top end, but torque and street manners were way, way better.

i was working at a dyno shop at the time. i bought all my own parts, nobody was sponsoring me and there was no outside influence. old school clayton water brake dyno, chassis dyno was in floor dual roller. there was no finger on the scale, the number was the number.

i don't know if i have any of the paperwork-- a lot of it went with the car, and my personal stuff i've moved about 5 times, so i don't have the granular numbers to the 1/4hp & tq but i can tell you it ran the damn number.

here's the car too: 1965 Dodge Dart F/S
 
Mean416 said:
Boy ohh boy nothing gets a response like a good 318 question.

For the supposed Rodney Dangerfield of Mopar engines, they seem to garner a ton of respect.
Click to expand...
I don't know about a ton respect, I find people over sale there weakness.
Mean416 said:
Look, if you wanna make some power you have to address the culprits holding it back. They're the same with every gasoline engine. You need enough flow to get to a certain power number,
Click to expand...
Top end is the key.
Mean416 said:
you need compression and/or displacement to build torque,
Click to expand...
And RPM for a certain power number, it all somewhat inter linked especially at similar torque per cid. A 360 is about 13% bigger than a 318, A 318 needs about 13% more rpms to make similar power, 13% more rpm makes 13% more hp for a given amount of torque or in this case somewhat cancels out the 13% less torque, making the same hp. If stalled and gear right Eg. for quarter mile the 318 will make similar torque to the ground. Obviously tq/cid varies so would the percentage would with them.
Mean416 said:
There's no magic button (well , nitrous not withstanding) to get the combo where you want it. In my opinion you're gonna have to do some real work.

My 2c, find a relatively low mileage junkyard 5.2/5.9 out of any of a zillion trucks and swap it in. Buy a cheap intake and headers and you'll get to 300 hp or thereabouts. Throw a cam and a converter at it and things start getting serious.
Click to expand...
I'd look for a 5.9l swap the magnum heads on the 318, and build the 5.9l for a later swap.
 
while there's no magic button, there is a fairly easy to follow recipe.

you need compression, you need head flow and you need a not outrageous cam. if you have okay-ish compression and you don't hobble it with a massive duration cam and get some decent heads and 4bbl on there with some headers you're damn near gonna make 300.

if was was undertaking this task with a 318 i'd probably skip used LA heads and go right to magnum/speedmaster/etc or some other aluminum head. factory iron heads are a crap shoot and if you get some that need work-- say seats and valve guides, new springs, etx you're already squarely in aftermarket territory money wise. maybe not brand new aftermarket, but easily some used eddies. the only caveat being if you already had or could score a good deal on some legit ported heads that were already set to run.

everything from there is a compromise. build for torque or look for high RPM power, go single plane and double pumper and shoot for the number or throw a dual plane at it with something a little more conservative on top and cackle wildly as you roast 'em in 2nd.
 
madjak.06 said:
Hey everyone, was wondering if a 300 crank HP 318 build was do-able with bolt ons- and what else might I need to reach that??
318 build list:
- eddy 4 barrel intake & 600 cfm carb with 1 inch spacer
- Mild cam (Hughes whiplash)
- Hedman long tube headers, duals running to flowmaster super 10s
- Jegs distributer and NGK plugs
*Motor is fairly fresh and pulls to 5000+ no problem*

I understand majority of SBM's suffer from flow restriction and deathly low compression, but I do not wish to tear my motor apart soon, and just want a streetable small block for now! If anyone has any idea where I'm at horsepower wise currently or suggestions to hit 300 HP at the crank, please let me know!
Click to expand...
if you run that whiplash in a low-compression 318, the bottom end will be a tad soft. Your A-body will need a higher than stock stall to get moving, and some deeper gears to let her wind up.
-------------------------------------
If yur running 2.76 gears/ stock stall, it won't matter how much NA power yur 318 makes, cuz you won't get to the power until about 40 mph. Then it's a flash in the pan and time to shift, and when it hits second gear she's done, cuz she doesn't have the cylinder pressure to come back up on the cam.
Everybody talks horsepower, but for a streeter, HP is NOT what you need.
HP is required in a drag car cuz the wind-resistance sucks it up almost as fast as the engine produces it. It takes 4 times the power to go two times the speed, and it's almost all going to overcome wind-resistance..
But a streeter rarely sees speeds over 50/60 mph. I mean you stand on the gas for more than 5>6 seconds, and the car is speeding, and you got the attention of every cop in the neighborhood.
So no, for a streeter, hp should be secondary, cuz 300hp for a mostly stock 318 with bolt-ons, always comes way up the rpm band
For a 318 streeter, the primary things, should be, IMO, to have;
> the right gear at the right time,
> a halfway decent launch,
> a car that goes where you point it, and
> a power-curve that doesn't die on the one-two shift. And this is the toughie with a TorqueFlite cuz the 1-2 split is 59%. That is to say, no matter what rpm you shift at, at WOT, the rpm will fall to 59%. So if you shift at 5000, the Rs will drop to ~2950. If your 300hp cam doesn't wake up until 4000, well then, you got a problem. and the only things that will get a NA-streeter with a given engine thru that, is cylinder pressure......... or around it, with a High-stall TC.
Now then, the Lo-Compression 318s barely make 135psi on a good day. But then you put a Whiplash into it, that just scrubs the pressure lower. Without doing the math, I'll guess the CCP might fall to ~125 psi. Which super sucks, but sucks worse with a 2000 stall and 2.76 gears..
What good is having 300 hp at 5000 rpm, when the teener only makes IDK say less than 100 hp at 2000?
So like I said; if the engine is not coming apart for a pressure increase, just install a Hi-stall and gears; and go have fun..
 
AJ/FormS said:
if you run that whiplash in a low-compression 318, the bottom end will be a tad soft.
Click to expand...
The whiplash is spec'd for low compression , it's a perfect choice for a stock teen with stock convertor and gears.
 
AJ/FormS said:
if you run that whiplash in a low-compression 318, the bottom end will be a tad soft. Your A-body will need a higher than stock stall to get moving, and some deeper gears to let her wind up.
-------------------------------------
If yur running 2.76 gears/ stock stall, it won't matter how much NA power yur 318 makes, cuz you won't get to the power until about 40 mph. Then it's a flash in the pan and time to shift, and when it hits second gear she's done, cuz she doesn't have the cylinder pressure to come back up on the cam.
Everybody talks horsepower, but for a streeter, HP is NOT what you need.
HP is required in a drag car cuz the wind-resistance sucks it up almost as fast as the engine produces it. It takes 4 times the power to go two times the speed, and it's almost all going to overcome wind-resistance..
But a streeter rarely sees speeds over 50/60 mph. I mean you stand on the gas for more than 5>6 seconds, and the car is speeding, and you got the attention of every cop in the neighborhood.
So no, for a streeter, hp should be secondary, cuz 300hp for a mostly stock 318 with bolt-ons, always comes way up the rpm band
For a 318 streeter, the primary things, should be, IMO, to have;
> the right gear at the right time,
> a halfway decent launch,
> a car that goes where you point it, and
> a power-curve that doesn't die on the one-two shift. And this is the toughie with a TorqueFlite cuz the 1-2 split is 59%. That is to say, no matter what rpm you shift at, at WOT, the rpm will fall to 59%. So if you shift at 5000, the Rs will drop to ~2950. If your 300hp cam doesn't wake up until 4000, well then, you got a problem. and the only things that will get a NA-streeter with a given engine thru that, is cylinder pressure......... or around it, with a High-stall TC.
Now then, the Lo-Compression 318s barely make 135psi on a good day. But then you put a Whiplash into it, that just scrubs the pressure lower. Without doing the math, I'll guess the CCP might fall to ~125 psi. Which super sucks, but sucks worse with a 2000 stall and 2.76 gears..
What good is having 300 hp at 5000 rpm, when the teener only makes IDK say less than 100 hp at 2000?
So like I said; if the engine is not coming apart for a pressure increase, just install a Hi-stall and gears; and go have fun..
Click to expand...

Did you look at the dyno graph?
Base is low cr 2bbl in dyno trim with headers
Mod 1 is 4bbl and comp xe262h
Mod 2 added a carb spacer

Mod 1 & 2 make more power at 3000 rpm than stock does at peak ain't gonna be too hard to get to 3000+ rpms, as for below 3000 rpms we don't know but doubt there's any real loss and how much time is spent there anyways on a full/part throttle run.

HORSEPOWER SUPERFLOW 901 DYNO-TESTED AT WESTECH
RPMBASEMOD 1MOD 2
2,000112
2,500137
3,000164193192
3,500182224227
4,000189248252
4,500186265274
5,000179271282
5,500262270

Even on a 400 hp engine with comp 280h it's still making the same hp at 3000 rpm and 300 hp by 4500 rpm.

You may not see a lot of peak power but your still getting a lot more average power to the ground even in short throttle blips.

Mopar 318
RPMHPTQ
3,000190332
3,500241376
4,000286376
4,500321375
4,900357382
5,000363381
5,500388371
6,000398348
6,200400339
6,500393318
 
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AJ/FormS said:
if you run that whiplash in a low-compression 318, the bottom end will be a tad soft. Your A-body will need a higher than stock stall to get moving, and some deeper gears to let her wind up.
-------------------------------------
If yur running 2.76 gears/ stock stall, it won't matter how much NA power yur 318 makes, cuz you won't get to the power until about 40 mph. Then it's a flash in the pan and time to shift, and when it hits second gear she's done, cuz she doesn't have the cylinder pressure to come back up on the cam.
Everybody talks horsepower, but for a streeter, HP is NOT what you need.
HP is required in a drag car cuz the wind-resistance sucks it up almost as fast as the engine produces it. It takes 4 times the power to go two times the speed, and it's almost all going to overcome wind-resistance..
But a streeter rarely sees speeds over 50/60 mph. I mean you stand on the gas for more than 5>6 seconds, and the car is speeding, and you got the attention of every cop in the neighborhood.
So no, for a streeter, hp should be secondary, cuz 300hp for a mostly stock 318 with bolt-ons, always comes way up the rpm band
For a 318 streeter, the primary things, should be, IMO, to have;
> the right gear at the right time,
> a halfway decent launch,
> a car that goes where you point it, and
> a power-curve that doesn't die on the one-two shift. And this is the toughie with a TorqueFlite cuz the 1-2 split is 59%. That is to say, no matter what rpm you shift at, at WOT, the rpm will fall to 59%. So if you shift at 5000, the Rs will drop to ~2950. If your 300hp cam doesn't wake up until 4000, well then, you got a problem. and the only things that will get a NA-streeter with a given engine thru that, is cylinder pressure......... or around it, with a High-stall TC.
Now then, the Lo-Compression 318s barely make 135psi on a good day. But then you put a Whiplash into it, that just scrubs the pressure lower. Without doing the math, I'll guess the CCP might fall to ~125 psi. Which super sucks, but sucks worse with a 2000 stall and 2.76 gears..
What good is having 300 hp at 5000 rpm, when the teener only makes IDK say less than 100 hp at 2000?
So like I said; if the engine is not coming apart for a pressure increase, just install a Hi-stall and gears; and go have fun..
Click to expand...
the whiplash cam numbers come out with 9.2 compression at...
Static compression ratio of 9.2:1.
Effective stroke is 3.10 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 8.68:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 177.54 PSI.
Your effective boost compression ratio, reflecting static c.r., cam timing, altitude, and boost of 0 PSI is 8.52 :1.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 159
and thats retarded 4 degrees!!!!!!
8.6 to 1 installed straight up works out at....
Static compression ratio of 8.6:1.
Effective stroke is 3.14 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 8.21:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 164.89 PSI.
Your effective boost compression ratio, reflecting static c.r., cam timing, altitude, and boost of 0 PSI is 8.05 :1.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 149

whiplash is designed to build pressure, not bleed off pressure!! and it dose it well from what ive seen...dwb
 
Everyone I know or have spoken with who's used a Whiplash cam has been happy with it. They are designed exactly as advertised and as has been described here, for low compression engines. I will say this. They will probably be more effective with a converter that will flash accordingly based on their duration @ .050".
 
harrisonm said:
I would think that is a definite possibility. Heads and their associated airflow could be your biggest problem.
I do have one question though. I have always considered a "Bolt On" to be something like headers, intake manifolds, etc. that we bolted to the outside of a motor. Would we consider a cam swap to be a "Bolt On"? PLEASE don't get me wrong. I'm not trying to hijack the thread be negative, I am just seriously curious.
Click to expand...
Definetely not a bolt on, but given the ease of installation and the cam already installed, I had to throw it up there :) (Plus I know 300 crank hp isn't possible without one considering stock internals)
 
AJ/FormS said:
if you run that whiplash in a low-compression 318, the bottom end will be a tad soft. Your A-body will need a higher than stock stall to get moving, and some deeper gears to let her wind up.
-------------------------------------
If yur running 2.76 gears/ stock stall, it won't matter how much NA power yur 318 makes, cuz you won't get to the power until about 40 mph. Then it's a flash in the pan and time to shift, and when it hits second gear she's done, cuz she doesn't have the cylinder pressure to come back up on the cam.
Everybody talks horsepower, but for a streeter, HP is NOT what you need.
HP is required in a drag car cuz the wind-resistance sucks it up almost as fast as the engine produces it. It takes 4 times the power to go two times the speed, and it's almost all going to overcome wind-resistance..
But a streeter rarely sees speeds over 50/60 mph. I mean you stand on the gas for more than 5>6 seconds, and the car is speeding, and you got the attention of every cop in the neighborhood.
So no, for a streeter, hp should be secondary, cuz 300hp for a mostly stock 318 with bolt-ons, always comes way up the rpm band
For a 318 streeter, the primary things, should be, IMO, to have;
> the right gear at the right time,
> a halfway decent launch,
> a car that goes where you point it, and
> a power-curve that doesn't die on the one-two shift. And this is the toughie with a TorqueFlite cuz the 1-2 split is 59%. That is to say, no matter what rpm you shift at, at WOT, the rpm will fall to 59%. So if you shift at 5000, the Rs will drop to ~2950. If your 300hp cam doesn't wake up until 4000, well then, you got a problem. and the only things that will get a NA-streeter with a given engine thru that, is cylinder pressure......... or around it, with a High-stall TC.
Now then, the Lo-Compression 318s barely make 135psi on a good day. But then you put a Whiplash into it, that just scrubs the pressure lower. Without doing the math, I'll guess the CCP might fall to ~125 psi. Which super sucks, but sucks worse with a 2000 stall and 2.76 gears..
What good is having 300 hp at 5000 rpm, when the teener only makes IDK say less than 100 hp at 2000?
So like I said; if the engine is not coming apart for a pressure increase, just install a Hi-stall and gears; and go have fun..
Click to expand...
This makes an alarming amount of sense!!! I tried compensating with the lack of low end tq by throwing some 3.55 gears in with a shift kit in a 904. Unfortunately, I can't find anyone who sells a sure grip for a 7.25 rear, and don't really want to find a 8.75 before this one blows! I know this thing needs a higher stall converter DESPERATELY, just figured an open rear end plus a sub 300 hp motor can't justify all these heavy duty (& expensive) parts. Plan is to hold onto the 318 till she blows and rebuild the car from rear end to radiator :lol:
 
madjak.06 said:
This makes an alarming amount of sense!!! I tried compensating with the lack of low end tq
Click to expand...
The 318 will have plenty of torque with the whiplash. That's what the cam is patterned for, maintaining/building cylinder pressure and low end torque.
AJ would be better served looking at the spec's.
 
madjak.06 said:
74, from what I know all stock internals
Click to expand...
Without changing internals, it will be a bit harder to get to 300 than if you started with a '67-70 engine, but, it's still doable as the other responses laid out. I'd really be more worried about you using that 7 1/4.....even without the HP boost! Blowing a rear end can have all sorts of bad results, from over-revving the engine, to transmission problems, to out of control issues, depending on what breaks.
 
Obviously compression ratio, stall and gears helps out, of the 3, stall probably gives the most gain, but this idea a reasonable cam can't improve performance on a less than ideal setup is ridiculous. Most dyno'd results I've ever seen on reasonable cam upgrade over stock non performance cam is power practically everywhere. 318willrun's 318 car documented it can be done, it will be interesting to see what converter and gears will add next year.

The goal is more average power to the ground from stall and shifted rpm drops to shift points.
Say 2000-5500 rpm what rpms you gonna spend most average time, even with stock stall and gears ? Probably 3000-4500 rpm followed by 4500-5500 rpm than 2000-3000 rpm, the loss under 3000 rpm would have to be significant to kill the above 3000 gains, plus 2000-3000 rpm hp is 38-57% of torque so you'd need a fairly large torque loss to make a significant hp loss at those rpms.
 
Yeah well the '74 is a 8/1 advertised, and with the stock cam in at 108, the Wallace predicts 136psi at 800 ft, with a miserable VP of 113. But we all know that a 74 is not actually an 8/1 engine at all, plus OP's has some miles on it, so it won't be in at 108 anymore, if it ever was..
AND
OP is in Colorado!
Lets say the Ica of the stock cam is 50* and Elevation is 4000, and the Scr is 7.8; The Wallace now predicts
a paltry 113 psi/ with
a VP of an abysmal 93.
That's your baseline with the stock cam.
----------------------------------------------
Now, lets see how the Whiplash fairs
The only thing I'm gonna change is the ICA from 50*, to 55*; and I get
108psi at
86 VP
@4000ft elevation.

But suppose OP is at 1000 ft
The Wallace then predicts:
123 psi@ VP of 98

I don't care if your name is Smoky Yunich, this is a dead dog engine until it gets up on the cam, which is a 213/226/109 @.050, so it ain't happening for a long time, even with 3.55s, cuz the factory stall mightabin 2000, and now with the paltry cylinder pressure, is gonna be even less.

And OP has verified this sad situation in post #45.
fishmens67 said:
AJ would be better served looking at the spec's.
Click to expand...
There; done!

Op; you can't fix this with gears.
You can get around it with a higher stall. But that cuts into your working rpm, which then requires a cam that extends the rpm higher, which then requires another gearchange, and on and on and on.
If you are at elevation, the situation quickly makes the car
NOT a DD anymore.

In a given engine, the best way to solve this is with a higher starting cylinder pressure. and Second best is slam that intake shut sooner. You need a fast rate of lift, Solid-Lifter cam, in a smaller than normal size, which I haven't seen in a long time.
Something with an Ica close to stock of 48* and then you'll get at least your stock pressure back.

But, just to be clear
In your current set-up, the high-stall is your best bang for the buck.
When I run a 318 auto, I like my 2800; that's what I always run.
but I am at 900 ft, with a stock cam, and I run whatever gear I want, and my 318 measured 140 psi to start with. It goes like snot with 4.30s!/ not bad with 3.91s/ slowing down with 3.55s/ and with 2.76s, I manually upshift ASAP and let the Thermoquad wail to like 80mph still at 2800..................... big grins all around.

BTW,
Without regard to stall speed;
a good VP number to shoot for is like 150, but you'll never get your teener there with any reasonable cam, unless you spend a boatload of cash on machining.
But 140 is doable, and runs fairly decent.
By 130VP, she's getting lazy, and a convertor is my go-to.
By 120VP, I ain't bolting nuttin on that stone.
By 110VP, I'd be embarrassed to be seen driving it
By 98VP, she's feeling like a tired 273.
By 86VP, it's about as snappy as stock slanty, and she's a lawn-ornament.
Them there are my opinions.

Here's the thing; that Whiplash, at 213 @.050, is gonna make peak power at around 4600/4800, and peak torque maybe as early as 3100/3300
Your 1-2 shift rpm, if you outshift at 5000, will drop in at 2950, but your roadspeed might only be 40mph(with the 3.55s). So on the shift into Second/1.45 ratio, you'll be doing ~40mph @2950rpm, and with no reasonable VP forthcoming ........................... you'll be able to measure your acceleration with a sundial........ The cam will start working again at say 3600, which will be 50mph. So that makes the hole to be from 40mph to 50mph, am I right?
I'd be looking at a stall speed of between 3200 and 3600 depending on how punchy you want the 1-2 shift to be. Then I would retard that cam several degrees to pump up the useable rpm, cuz I would no longer be worried about how low the VP is going. And then I would gear the car to run out of revs at 65mph in second gear. And then I would go out and have a blast. This assumes you are at or below 1000 ft elevation.
But if at 4000 ft, or higher, I would hire Myth-Busters to see how far they can trebuchet that slug, and go build me an alloy-headed 367 that pumps out closer to 200 psi. Or better yet, a cool as a cucumber, 383/400lo-deck-stroker.
Lemmee know if you need;
>a K-member,
>a 383 core,
>a SG 8.75 with 4.88s,(that's all I still have,bigger than 3.55),
>a fat driveshaft,
>some bigger T-bars,
> factory disc-brakes
And so on, lol.
sorry no trans .......................
unless you would like a 4-speed, lol.
 
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AJ/FormS said:
In a given engine, the best way to solve this is with a higher starting cylinder pressure. and Second best is slam that intake shut sooner. You need a fast rate of lift, Solid-Lifter cam, in a smaller than normal size, which I haven't seen in a long time.
Click to expand...
i'd bet something from the isky catalog would be a nice choice (barring a custom grind). they have several that are conservative lift but decent rate without going overboard on duration.

something like that with the OE adjustable rockers could be a reasonably priced way to put a little pep in the step if you're trying to be low key and not break the bank.
 
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