Oh I have a degree wheel, I just didn’t use it. It sits over on that shelf with all the other tools I’ve never used. 
318 LA rebuild after losing a valve seat
- Thread starter Righty Tighty
- Start date
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Well, today’s the big day! Dropping in the motor. Pops is coming over to help, and hopefully with his oversight, he’ll make sure I don’t forget anything.
Better check your inbox quick Righty Tighty.
Thanks George! As luck would have it, the rear main seal was leaking, so that slowed me down enough to give me time to check it.
Thanks George! As luck would have it, the rear main seal was leaking, so that slowed me down enough to give me time to check it.
Well, I’m not sure why the rear main was leaking, but I replaced it. It wasn’t a huge leak, just the tiniest bit of oil that would form maybe two drops a day. I don’t understand, because shouldn’t the oil level be below the seal?
If I added too much oil and the level rose above the seal, would that cause a leak in an otherwise good seal? I think I goofed and added 6 quarts, because when I did a google search of “318 LA oil capacity”, the first result is 6 quarts. But I think that’s for the trucks that have the 318 LA.
If I added too much oil and the level rose above the seal, would that cause a leak in an otherwise good seal? I think I goofed and added 6 quarts, because when I did a google search of “318 LA oil capacity”, the first result is 6 quarts. But I think that’s for the trucks that have the 318 LA.
No it won’t leak fro being a quart over full. When we raced with a stock pan we always filmed to the full line then added an extra quart. These motors routinely seen 6500-7000 rpm. Kim
Thanks. I didn’t see anything obvious that would’ve caused the leak, and couldn’t figure out why it would leak just sitting on the stand. Hopefully the new seal fixes it!
Do u have the seal in the right way? Lop to the front of the motor. Little rubbers in place also? Kim
Okay, time for a confession. I didn’t replace the actual main seal, I replaced the oil pan seal as that’s where I thought the leak was. I will now accept the deserved flogging!
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
And here I thought my son was the only one I had to regularly lecture about the price of shortcuts LOL
Well, you did prime the engine so got some oil back in that seal area. But it ought to drain out of some holes in the rear main cap and not build up around the main seal itself.....
Well, you did prime the engine so got some oil back in that seal area. But it ought to drain out of some holes in the rear main cap and not build up around the main seal itself.....
Haha! Well, I've heard the lecture all my life....you'd think I would've learned by now! I'll be honest, I didn't replace the main seal because I didn't want to pull the crank. But after I had everything put together, I realized I could've replaced the seal without pulling the crank. The learning continues...
I did notice when I removed the main cap that the main seal was sitting just a hair proud on one side, and recessed on the other. The oil pan seal was pretty darn close to being flush on both sides. That was the only obvious possible cause of a leak. I used just a tiny amount of RTV on the oil pan gasket, so now that it's had some time to cure, I'll fill her back up with oil and prime again, keeping an eye on that rear seal area and crossing my fingers.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Ah, well, we have all paid the shortcut price at one time or another!
Actually some use the RTV dab on the main seal end to help the ends of the halves seal up, and some will offset the ends from the block/cap parting line to help.
So you ARE replacing the main seal? Sorry but I gotta ask....
Actually some use the RTV dab on the main seal end to help the ends of the halves seal up, and some will offset the ends from the block/cap parting line to help.
So you ARE replacing the main seal? Sorry but I gotta ask....
I kinda had a feeling you were gonna ask. The truth is, no. I didn't replace the main seal, just the oil pan seals and gaskets. It's funny you mention the RTV on the end, because that's exactly what I did. Just a small dab at the seam, since that's where I suspected the leak to be. I primed today just as I primed before and not one single hint of a leak, so I felt confident.
Here is my pops helping out.
Cheers! Not the tastiest beer out there, but it sure is refreshing on a hot day!
Unfortunately, I screwed up and installed the torque converter dust cover BEFORE the engine, so I need to pull it out. My dad didn't catch this, so we decided that since the engine has to come out a little anyway, that we would pull the tranny also to make it easier to mate the engine and tranny. Boy, next time I pull an engine I'll be taking the transmission with it. It's next to impossible to get those bellhousing bolts in while the engine is in the car. (And my pops gave a firm "I told you so.")
Here is my pops helping out.
Cheers! Not the tastiest beer out there, but it sure is refreshing on a hot day!
Unfortunately, I screwed up and installed the torque converter dust cover BEFORE the engine, so I need to pull it out. My dad didn't catch this, so we decided that since the engine has to come out a little anyway, that we would pull the tranny also to make it easier to mate the engine and tranny. Boy, next time I pull an engine I'll be taking the transmission with it. It's next to impossible to get those bellhousing bolts in while the engine is in the car. (And my pops gave a firm "I told you so.")
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
I want you pop's phone number. He and I need to talk LOL
Hope it goes in OK.
Hope it goes in OK.
Haha!! The majority of this build I've done on my own, because I wanted to. But now that he's helping drop it in, I realize I did a lot of it the hard way. BUT....I think that'll just make it easier for next time. And there WILL be a next time. This really is a lot of fun.
Engine's in! boy, I will NEVER pull an engine without the transmission again. It's so much easier pulling them/installing as a unit, but I'm sure most of you could've told me that. Now it's time to get everything connected and figure out where to install the ignition module.
I made some spacers out of 5/16" plate to keep the headers off the tie rod ends. They seem to work, at least while the car isn't moving.
I made some spacers out of 5/16" plate to keep the headers off the tie rod ends. They seem to work, at least while the car isn't moving.
Nice. If u check out the mounts for a 72 up truck they are quite a bit thicker. U will want to raise ur trans up at the back so u don’t have a vibration. Kim
Thanks for the tip! Would you just make a spacer of the same thickness and put it between the crossmember and tail shaft?
gzig5
Well-Known Member
Looks good. I just pulled my engine and trans. Did trans first then engine. May try putting them back in together, but I don't have a lot of help around here.
You are going to want to wrap the trans cooler lines or you will be adding a lot of heat to the fluid, I think.
You are going to want to wrap the trans cooler lines or you will be adding a lot of heat to the fluid, I think.
I did think about that. I have some header wrap coming that I was going to place in strategic areas, and I'm going to reroute the speedo cable. Could I wrap the trans cooler lines with the same header wrap?
gzig5
Well-Known Member
Sure. Or look up heat wrap on Summit or Amazon. There are a lot of options that might better fit the smaller tubes. If you are wrapping the headers, I'd still wrap the tubes. That pipe is really close to the oil pan which doesn't help either.
Thanks gzig. I was kinda wondering if the header wrap would be cumbersome going around those tiny lines. I installed these headers last summer when the car was still running and had no idea what I was doing, so I didn't think about the heat they'd be putting off. I didn't wrap anything, didn't move anything farther away, just installed and drove like a madman! Ten months and an engine rebuild later, let's see if I learned anything.....
So then u didn’t have the spacers in the mounts last summer? U will have to check and see how much room u have to raise the tranny. Kim
I didn’t have the spacers before. When I pulled the engine out, I noticed a spot where the headers had been rubbing on the tie rod end, and it was suggested I put in some spacers. So maybe worst case scenario I could just raise the tranny a little? I’ll have a look and see how much room is available.
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