318 tear down... it’s about time.

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nice convo on 273 rods an 318 cranks but ant this a 318 stroker build thread???
well that's still another debate also whether this is a stroker threat or not because the original poster is talking about a 273 crank, but is also talking about stroking before that so until the original poster comes back and let us know what the hell's going on we're just out here in the dark arguing back and forth about??????
 
well that's still another debate also whether this is a stroker threat or not because the original poster is talking about a 273 crank, but is also talking about stroking before that so until the original poster comes back and let us know what the hell's going on we're just out here in the dark arguing back and forth about??????
^^^^^TRUE!!!!!!^^^^^
 
Got over 10,000 miles on my 340 with 3.91 gears. Motor runs great, no smoke at all. Compression was all even across when I checked it 2 years ago, haven't really drove it much since then. I rev that baby passed 6,000 rpms like every time I drove it and it goes 75 mph on the freeways. I have driven it for a hour each way at speeds of 75. Motor runs cool, tach hoovers around 4,000.

U do need a quiet exhaust system, it makes all the difference. With loud mufflers, it be a nightmare on the freeways. Instead, it feels like 2,500 on the freeways.

If i had to do it again, 4.10 or even 4.30 gears might worked better yet. And a solid cam, that is grounded on 114 lbc for a decent idle. But then the motor wants 11 to 1 compression or more.

So most people just stroke the motor and enjoy it around town and don't "fly" down the expressways for long distances. They "sit" in the far right lanes and do 60, maybe 65 or get OD but for automatics Mopar screwed us. There isn't much out there that simply bolts in and works great. U gotta program the trans and what you save in fuel costs goes out the window in trans costs unless you drive it 10,000 miles each year. Then maybe after 4-5 years you start saving money--if the OD trans doesn't break by then.
 
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Forged cranks flex less at high rpm's and are easier on the main bearings, less wear, last longer.

The 273 engines were designed for going 3,000-4,000 rpms on the freeways and lasting 100,000 miles. They had solid lifters too, very mild cams but the was always upgrade cams available.

Then came the oil shock of 1973 and slower speed limits, so then cast cranks work just fine. Today, few people run 4.10 gears and no OD and drive 75 mph min on the expressways and if they do its not everyday for long distances


Hey! That's me!
 
Got over 10,000 miles on my 340 with 3.91 gears. Motor runs great, no smoke at all. Compression was all even across when I checked it 2 years ago, haven't really drove it much since then. I rev that baby passed 6,000 rpms like every time I drove it and it goes 75 mph on the freeways. I have driven it for a hour each way at speeds of 75. Motor runs cool, tach hoovers around 4,000.

U do need a quiet exhaust system, it makes all the difference. With loud mufflers, it be a nightmare on the freeways. Instead, it feels like 2,500 on the freeways.

If i had to do it again, 4.10 or even 4.30 gears might worked better yet. And a solid cam, that is grounded on 114 lbc for a decent idle. But then the motor wants 11 to 1 compression or more.

So most people just stroke the motor and enjoy it around town and don't "fly" down the expressways for long distances. They "sit" in the far right lanes and do 60, maybe 65 or get OD but for automatics Mopar screwed us. There isn't much out there that simply bolts in and works great. U gotta program the trans and what you save in fuel costs goes out the window in trans costs unless you drive it 10,000 miles each year. Then maybe after 4-5 years you start saving money--if the OD trans doesn't break by then.
Yea, It sucks that we don't have an OD trans that fits in our cars without cutting it apart or is cost prohibitive.
 
Yea, It sucks that we don't have an OD trans that fits in our cars without cutting it apart or is cost prohibitive.
Let's recap now? folks the original poster came out on Saturday night talking about some stroker build and then wakes up Sunday morning and says the "bore" is making it bigger LOL!
And what subject are you on to now?
we might as well be talking about my aunt quinellas corns on her feet? Without the original poster letting us know what the hell he's talking about....
 
Let's recap now? folks the original poster came out on Saturday night talking about some stroker build and then wakes up Sunday morning and says the "bore" is making it bigger LOL!
And what subject are you on to now?
we might as well be talking about my aunt quinellas corns on her feet? Without the original poster letting us know what the hell he's talking about....
I say we just roll with it!! Hows your aunts feet? Lol:poke:
 
Guys
cast cranks are stiffer, the do not flex
if they flex they break cast cranks like detonation less than forged cranks
forged cranks are a lot more giving which is why you run more clearance with a forged crank
We ran the 199 AMC 6 cast crank (3" stroke) with 60 POUNDS of boost making 1200 hp short burst and 1000 for hours
(Champion Spark Plug dyno with Dick Jones at the controls)
no engine problems at Indy
we had both cast nodular iron and "ARMASTEEL" both worked
nothing special on the bearing clearance but oil flow opened up to the max to cool the bearings (but do not know if it was really needed)
 
yo kid

The magazine articles are based on whatever parts and money are donated by the suppliers-(most of them)
That 280 H appears to have a larger profit margin as it is a mass produced cam
you can do much better with a modern cam
unfortunately comp does not stoop to make a more modern profile in your size/ rpm range- evidently no profit in at as long as the public will buy whatever the tech hot line is pushing as the flavor of the month
Their idea of an upgrade is the "dual energy" gimmick
 
Guys
cast cranks are stiffer, the do not flex
if they flex they break cast cranks like detonation less than forged cranks
forged cranks are a lot more giving which is why you run more clearance with a forged crank
We ran the 199 AMC 6 cast crank (3" stroke) with 60 POUNDS of boost making 1200 hp short burst and 1000 for hours
(Champion Spark Plug dyno with Dick Jones at the controls)
no engine problems at Indy
we had both cast nodular iron and "ARMASTEEL" both worked
nothing special on the bearing clearance but oil flow opened up to the max to cool the bearings (but do not know if it was really needed)


Dick was certainly a dyno master. One of the best in the country. Who knows how much knowledge just that one guy is responsible for disseminating. It's a damn lot, that's for sure.
 
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