340 cam in a 318

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Rat Bastid said:
And then you install the valve train and all the bullshit math you did is just that. You don’t have a clue what the P/V is.
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How would you know the maths is "Bullshit" if you've never done it to begin with?
Maybe your the bullshitter, not the maths?..
Actually I do install the valve gear and manually check the piston to valve once the cam is installed.
Every good engine builder does.
Saying I don't know what piston to valve is may be the dumbest thing you've said yet.
Why would I bother doing the "bullshit maths" if it's just going to be wrong and I have to do a bunch of machining to get it in there or have order another cam? Especially when I'm being payed per hour to build performance engines?
Doing the "maths" allows me to choose from a range of lobes I know will fit in the space I have after deducting the clearances I use.
Maybe you just have maths issues and prefer to use crayons.

You know, you sound a lot like Yellow Rose..
 
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The last time Rosy and myself crossed swords, he ended up disappearing..
It's a mystery!!
 
Bakerlite said:
How would you know the maths is "Bullshit" if you've never done it to begin with?
Maybe your the bullshitter, not the maths?..
Actually I do install the valve gear and manually check the piston to valve once the cam is installed.
Every good engine builder does.
Saying I don't know what piston to valve is may be the dumbest thing you've said yet.
Why would I bother doing the "bullshit maths" if it's just going to be wrong and I have to do a bunch of machining to get it in there or have order another cam? Especially when I'm being payed per hour to build performance engines?
Doing the "maths" allows me to choose from a range of lobes I know will fit in the space I have after deducting the clearances I use.
Maybe you just have maths issues and prefer to use crayons.

You know, you sound a lot like Yellow Rose..
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I know what valve drop is you tool. Using it to measure V/P is bullshit. Once again, your alligator mouth is overloading your canary ***.
 
Rat Bastid said:
I know what valve drop is you tool. Using it to measure V/P is bullshit. Once again, your alligator mouth is overloading your canary ***.
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Would you guys use your own post to argue about P/V clearance issues. For some reason my post here got totally off the original question. As a reminder, all I wanted to know if it was worth the effort and money and what else could be done to get the full benefit of going with a 340 cam in a 318.
 
Dan the man said:
Would you guys use your own post to argue about P/V clearance issues. For some reason my post here got totally off the original question. As a reminder, all I wanted to know if it was worth the effort and money and what else could be done to get the full benefit of going with a 340 cam in a 318.
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Why not read what I posted about checking piston to valve clearance and learn something? If you are going to assemble an engine, or engines that’s as basic as it gets. That, degreeing a cam and checking bearing clearance with a micrometer.

If you can’t do those things proficiently you have no business doing engine assembly.

I didn’t start the discussion on poor ways to check P/V, I just corrected it.
 
Rat Bastid said:
Why not read what I posted about checking piston to valve clearance and learn something? If you are going to assemble an engine, or engines that’s as basic as it gets. That, degreeing a cam and checking bearing clearance with a micrometer.

If you can’t do those things proficiently you have no business doing engine assembly.

I didn’t start the discussion on poor ways to check P/V, I just corrected it.
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I'm thankful that you explained it, I was getting tired of the other guys arguing about it, it's not a difficult process and it doesn't take long to do.
 
Dan the man said:
Would you guys use your own post to argue about P/V clearance issues. For some reason my post here got totally off the original question. As a reminder, all I wanted to know if it was worth the effort and money and what else could be done to get the full benefit of going with a 340 cam in a 318.
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I understand.
This has got nothing to do with P/V.
Rat.. or Yellow Rose as he was once known around here, has a beef with me because he blames me for getting himself in a little trouble in the N/P section and kicked from it.
If I said you used a feeler gauge to check your tappet clearance, he'd be bitching about that too. It's just sour grapes..I guess he's still a little butt hurt over it.
If I had realized it was him earlier , I'd have just told him to take a hike because he's a 24 carat time waster ..
As you can see I said that I manually check the P/V , but he just ignored that and kept going, I said Bullett Cams use the same technique, and he ignored that too, because as I said, it's not about the P/V .
And when you asked him to use another post to talk about P/V, he ignored you, and told you that you should "learn something" because he's talking and you should be listening.
That's how he also got kicked from N/P section, ignoring the warnings, what he was being told and just running his mouth.

Sorry it's ruined or at least, derailed your tread, I won't post here again and give him any oxygen. Good luck with your 318 build..
 
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Bakerlite said:
I understand.
This has got nothing to do with P/V.
Rat.. or Yellow Rose as he was once known around here, has a beef with me because he blames me for getting himself in a little trouble in the N/P section and kicked from it.
If I said you used a feeler gauge to check your tappet clearance, he'd be bitching about that too. It's just sour grapes..I guess he's still a little butt hurt over it.
If I had realized it was him earlier , I'd have just told him to take a hike because he's a 24 carat time waster ..
As you can see I said that I manually check the P/V , but he just ignored that and kept going, I said Bullett Cams use the same technique, and he ignored that too, because as I said, it's not about the P/V .
And when you asked him to use another post to talk about P/V, he ignored you, and told you that you should "learn something" because he's talking and you should be listening.
That's how he also got kicked from N/P section, ignoring the warnings, what he was being told and just running his mouth.

Sorry it's ruined or at least, derailed your tread, I won't post here again and give him any oxygen. Good luck with your 318 build..
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You speak from ignorance and haven’t a clue. You are a petty fool with bad advice. Don’t give yourself any more credit than that.
 
Bakerlite said:
I understand.
This has got nothing to do with P/V.
Rat.. or Yellow Rose as he was once known around here, has a beef with me because he blames me for getting himself in a little trouble in the N/P section and kicked from it.
If I said you used a feeler gauge to check your tappet clearance, he'd be bitching about that too. It's just sour grapes..I guess he's still a little butt hurt over it.
If I had realized it was him earlier , I'd have just told him to take a hike because he's a 24 carat time waster ..
As you can see I said that I manually check the P/V , but he just ignored that and kept going, I said Bullett Cams use the same technique, and he ignored that too, because as I said, it's not about the P/V .
And when you asked him to use another post to talk about P/V, he ignored you, and told you that you should "learn something" because he's talking and you should be listening.
That's how he also got kicked from N/P section, ignoring the warnings, what he was being told and just running his mouth.

Sorry it's ruined or at least, derailed your tread, I won't post here again and give him any oxygen. Good luck with your 318 build..
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Rat Bastid said:
You speak from ignorance and haven’t a clue. You are a petty fool with bad advice. Don’t give yourself any more credit than that.
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OK you two. It's pretty damn bad when the guys on FBBO are talking about bull **** happening between members like is happening here. You two are banned from commenting on this thread.
 
Dan the man said:
Would you guys use your own post to argue about P/V clearance issues. For some reason my post here got totally off the original question..
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krazykuda said:
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I would be impressed if people would stay with the original question and not vary from it and post silly comments. It's not difficult at all, is it worth putting a 340 cam in a 318, what experiences have you guys had by doing so. I don't know why p/v issues got brought up in the first place as that's not a issue. 340 pistons are above the deck
 
Dan the man said:
I don't know why p/v issues got brought up in the first place as that's not a issue. 340 pistons are above the deck
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Exactly, below .500 lift p/v clearance is not a concern.... Especially with stock low compression 318 pistons....

Dan the man said:
It's not difficult at all, is it worth putting a 340 cam in a 318, what experiences have you guys had by doing so. I don't know why p/v issues got brought up in the first place as that's not a issue. 340 pistons are above the deck
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Yes, it's worth putting a 340 cam in a 318.... Just make sure to have dual exhaust with it for best results....

2 1/4" dual exhaust is fine... Get some nice street turbo mufflers so it's quiet at idle and rumbles when revved with minimal restriction.... Crossover or x-pipe is your option, but not absolutely necessary....
 
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krazykuda said:
Exactly, below .500 lift p/v clearance is not a concern.... Especially with stock low compression 318 pistons....




Yes, it's worth putting a 340 cam in a 318.... Just make sure to have dual exhaust with it for best results....

2 1/4" dual exhaust is fine... Get some nice street turbo mufflers so it's quiet at idle and rumbles when revved with minimal restriction.... Crossover or x-pipe is your option, but not absolutely necessary....
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Awesome. I'm going to run the pistons at zero deck height, that still shouldn't be a problem. And 2 1/4" exhaust system
 
Dan the man said:
It's not difficult at all, is it worth putting a 340 cam in a 318, what experiences have you guys had by doing so.
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Also when changing the cam, make sure to install a good double roller timing chain... Equivalent to a stock 340 or better....

The stock 318 single row nylon tooth timing chain is junk and should not be used or re-used... They are known to chip the nylon off the teeth to make the chain very loose and sometimes could jump a tooth...


I like this one (same chain, different sellers):

Edelbrock

Timing Chain and Gear Seats at Summit Racing


It's one step over the stock 340 cam and will last well over 150,000 miles in a daily driver/street cruiser....



So the answer to your question is install a 340 cam, change the timing chain to double roller timing chain, and dual exhaust... That is the minimum needed to wake up a stock 318 with minimal budget... :steering:
 
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The times I've done this, it has always been with headers and dual exhaust, four barrel carb and intake. Chrysler factory electronic ignition. Stock to stockish convertor. Minimum of a 3.23 gear. They have run very well. Now, if you're asking about a 340 cam in a stock two barrel single exhaust, I have no idea.
 
408 swinger said:
The times I've done this, it has always been with headers and dual exhaust, four barrel carb and intake. Chrysler factory electronic ignition. Stock to stockish convertor. Minimum of a 3.23 gear. They have run very well. Now, if you're asking about a 340 cam in a stock two barrel single exhaust, I have no idea.
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I'm going to do it the same way you did.
 
krazykuda said:
Also when changing the cam, make sure to install a good double roller timing chain... Equivalent to a stock 340 or better....

The stock 318 single row nylon tooth timing chain is junk and should not be used or re-used... They are known to chip the nylon off the teeth to make the chain very loose and sometimes could jump a tooth...


I like this one (same chain, different sellers):

Edelbrock

Timing Chain and Gear Seats at Summit Racing


It's one step over the stock 340 cam and will last well over 150,000 miles in a daily driver/street cruiser....



So the answer to your question is install a 340 cam, change the timing chain to double roller timing chain, and dual exhaust... That is the minimum needed to wake up a stock 318 with minimal budget... :steering:
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Awesome, this is the information that I was looking for. Since I'm not going for a lot of horsepower, can I use a a 500-600 cfm carburetor and a performer intake?
 
While we are on the subject, let's talk about camshafts. Now we all know the 340 cam is no longer available but most every grinder has a copy. Not all are close but close enough for a street cruiser. Is the automatic cam a better choice than the 4 speed cam? @krazykuda has done a lot of legwork to make a close copy.
 
toolmanmike said:
While we are on the subject, let's talk about camshafts. Now we all know the 340 cam is no longer available but most every grinder has a copy. Not all are close but close enough for a street cruiser. Is the automatic cam a better choice than the 4 speed cam? @krazykuda has done a lot of legwork to make a close copy.
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I'll probably use the Howard's cam 255* / 261*.
 
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