340 Engine Shake

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Ironracer said:
Ouch! Damn chi-com crap! People sell them are good heavy Steel aluminum and copper and they send us back junk
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We get what we're willing to pay for, and most everyone shops based on price alone. Just look how many people are willing to buy junk alum heads when they know they're getting recycled beer cans in a rough shape of a head, but they're so cheap!

The real difference is that we used to have OEMS buying lifters, and because of that some of their quality systems trickled into commercial parts. Since no OEM is running AMC style flat tappet lifters these days, that's no longer the case and lowest bidder wins every time..
 
Phreakish said:
We get what we're willing to pay for, and most everyone shops based on price alone. Just look how many people are willing to buy junk alum heads when they know they're getting recycled beer cans in a rough shape of a head, but they're so cheap!

The real difference is that we used to have OEMS buying lifters, and because of that some of their quality systems trickled into commercial parts. Since no OEM is running AMC style flat tappet lifters these days, that's no longer the case and lowest bidder wins every time..
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Yessir, Sold Out! Pisses me off till no end! I watch reading follow the tech on a lot of these aluminum heads... I'm just one of them guys that, before I go out and buy the cheapest, latest greatest, set of aluminum heads or anything else, I'm going to do my research, from a known and trusted source, check for good reviews, and ask people that have been there, I'll probably end up paying a few more dollars for something, but what good is a Fistfull of Dollars, if a Few Dollars More is better?
 
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Thanks, everyone. Im gonna bring the car home Tuesday as I have the day off. My plan is to remove the trans and motor as an assembly and put it up on the engine stand and start disassembly myself. I'm hoping the bearings are in good shape.

So hopefully a good cleaning, new cam and lifters and be on my way. I do believe I'm going to go with a roller cam and lifters, though. I just have to go down that road of picking one, again.
 
If you look at the 'break' in instructions for FT cams from 10 cam companies, you will get 11 different answers......
Different in terms of time, rpm, etc.
 
I never keep em at one rpm for as long as they recommend. Never bought a Lunati either. Just was always taught to slightly alternate revs , holding pattern for a few minutes
 
plumkrazee70 said:
UPDATE:

I lost the cam, it appears. There is shiny glitter in the oil and in the oil filter after he cut it open. So the motor has to come out and gone through. Super disappointed.
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Bummer!
Please remind us of your break in proceedure and the engine oil that you used.
When you began disassembly go at it like a Surgeon pay attention to the smallest of details, measure as much as you can, use your camera and record everything. Post what you find
Most important of all is to Keep your Chin up even the pros have camms fail.
 
plumkrazee70 said:
Thanks, everyone. Im gonna bring the car home Tuesday as I have the day off. My plan is to remove the trans and motor as an assembly and put it up on the engine stand and start disassembly myself. I'm hoping the bearings are in good shape.

So hopefully a good cleaning, new cam and lifters and be on my way. I do believe I'm going to go with a roller cam and lifters, though. I just have to go down that road of picking one, again.
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Rollers are great but be careful there are junk roller lifters also.
Do your research before you purchase, the good ones may be hard to get.
I myself like Morel roller lifters.
 
512Stroker said:
Rollers are great but be careful there are junk roller lifters also.
Do your research before you purchase, the good ones may be hard to get.
I myself like Morel roller lifters.
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I was doing some research, nothing definitive yet. It seems that machine work is necessary for rollers in a SB? I have read that Hughes has drop in ones?
 
plumkrazee70 said:
I was doing some research, nothing definitive yet. It seems that machine work is necessary for rollers in a SB? I have read that Hughes has drop in ones?
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If you are racing I'd say you want to bush the lifter bores and do some trick oiling mods. For thr street no work is required as long as your lifter bores are within spec. I have run both hydraulic and solid rollers in stock block LA SBM engines on the street with no issues.
Pay attention to
Placement of the oiling groove and EDM oiling
Length and weight
Roller diameter and roller axle retention
Quality, quality and of course quality matters
OK lifters are $cheap, great lifters are not $cheap.
 
512Stroker said:
If you are racing I'd say you want to bush the lifter bores and do some trick oiling mods. For thr street no work is required as long as your lifter bores are within spec. I have run both hydraulic and solid rollers in stock block LA SBM engines on the street with no issues.
Pay attention to
Placement of the oiling groove and EDM oiling
Length and weight
Roller diameter and roller axle retention
Quality, quality and of course quality matters
OK lifters are $cheap, great lifters are not $cheap.
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10-4. I don't want this to be a race car. I want a fun dependable street car that I can take anywhere.

The current motor is:
68 340 .040 over
Keith Black Hypers .018 out the hole
Edelbrock Aluminum heads 65cc for the hipo 340
Stock rods
Steel crank
Air gap
Doug's headers
Fitech EFI
4 speed with 18 spline OD gearset
4.10 rear gears
 
512Stroker said:
Those are great rollers made by John Callies.
Great for the street, order them if the have them in stock, took me 4 months to get the last set of Morels.
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Yeah used them in my 426 stroker worked well still working . If you can get them , think they are back in stock
 
512Stroker said:
So now the big question
What roller camshaft are you going to use?
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That's where I need help. I wan to this right and once. Lol. My specs are above a few posts back. Keys are EFI, good drivability, but also good low end torque. Street car that can be driven anywhere.
 
plumkrazee70 said:
That's where I need help. I wan to this right and once. Lol. My specs are above a few posts back. Keys are EFI, good drivability, but also good low end torque. Street car that can be driven anywhere.
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Your engine/driveline set up has alot to offer for some real street performance.
Remind me what compression ratio?
Cranking cylinder pressue?
What size rear tire?
 
4 speed manual brakes it's all good , not like you have an auto trans and power brakes
 
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