340 headers?

-
alright i have a set of hooker competition headers... they were kinda rough going in but didn't take a day only took a few hours and they do hang really low but are a+ in my book but i am looking at saving up for the TTI just because of what i have seen and researched for them i just am looking for the best bargain that i can get.....
 
Abodyjoe, I see that in your first photo, you have hedmans with power steering, then the second is with TTI and manual steering. Did you have to change the power steering box to manual so the headers would fit? Also, how 'blue" have the chrome TTI's gotten since installation.
 
have 1 7/8 hooker s/c on 71 demon pain to get in took about 4 to 5 hrs hang to low good spark access but the oil filter even with the 90 degree apd is a real pain in the ***
 
MrMopar said:
Abodyjoe, I see that in your first photo, you have hedmans with power steering, then the second is with TTI and manual steering. Did you have to change the power steering box to manual so the headers would fit? Also, how 'blue" have the chrome TTI's gotten since installation.
Click to expand...


no i didn't have to change over it was by choice.. i hate chrysler power steering... i blued them early on because i was running lean... they did rust though.. but my car sits outside all year and i never oiled them down like the directions said....
 
Thanks for the info, abodyjoe, you helped me make up my mind on whether or not I would instal the factory cast HP manifolds or TTI's. I for sure, cannot, even though a lot of people like them, pay around $800.00 for the TTI's (that includes currency exchange and shipping to my door), for something that still will discolor, and rust. I thought they were so good that they would last forever. Sure, they may perform better and fit in better than any other header, but to have to oil them down while in active or ceramic coat them and then watch them rust is just not my idea of a good deal. I will take the 15 less HP in trade for durability, quiet and ground clearance with the HP exhausts. Thanks for the input!!
 
you do know any of the chrome or coated headders WILL rust right? i don't care what headder or what coating you have it will rust if the car sits outside and they are not oiled down... basically your paying for the fit with tti's.. like i said mine were about $499.. sucks your in canada.. can you drive to NY ansd maybe buy them?? if your not worried about the power loss then thats cool....
 
Drive to New York, now thats funny, check your geography, thats most of the way across Canada from where I live and its O.K. about the power loss, all I have to do is hit the NOS button and that will more than make up for the difference. Thanks for the info.
 
MrMopar said:
Thanks for the info, abodyjoe, you helped me make up my mind on whether or not I would instal the factory cast HP manifolds or TTI's. I for sure, cannot, even though a lot of people like them, pay around $800.00 for the TTI's (that includes currency exchange and shipping to my door), for something that still will discolor, and rust. I thought they were so good that they would last forever. Sure, they may perform better and fit in better than any other header, but to have to oil them down while in active or ceramic coat them and then watch them rust is just not my idea of a good deal. I will take the 15 less HP in trade for durability, quiet and ground clearance with the HP exhausts. Thanks for the input!!
Click to expand...

You know I can see your point if you have to pay $800 for them but just so you know TTI's don't really have much of a ground clearance problem. Not like all the other makes that hang below the steering linkage. Also if your engine is built like your signature says headers will give you a whole lot more than 15 hp gain. Probably more like a 50+ hp gain. The 15 hp gain published by Mopar Muscle was done on a 300 hp crate engine. The lower hp engine dosen't gain nearly as much from headers than a higher output engine because the lower output engine moves less air to begin with. Just food for thought.
 
I disagree, I think 50+ HP is a bit of a stretch. My car is a 14.2 sec car with street tires. Thats barely 300 horses maybe a little more. The elevation is somewhat higher here plus the air is not that great for big HP. I noticed a bit of a difference a long time ago when I put the headers on but not 50 HP worth. I have the manifolds and bolts and all in my garage, I don't have anything but flattened out headers on the Dart right now, so the manifolds are going on, I will G-tech it before and after and we will see. Like I said before, the NOS will more than make up the difference. Have you ever run NOS on your car? If you have, then you know what I mean.
 
Actually that was a typo on my part. Should have read 40+ hp. The old FF (fat fingers)syndrome. I haven't every dyno'ed any but have read dyno reports online and in magazines that back this up. This is based on a 400+hp engine. My Desktop Dyno program shows the same thing. That's through the mufflers. Open headers show approx. 10-15 hp more.

BTW: Did you do any re-tuning after you installed your headers? If not you probably didn't realize the total benefits of them. Never owned a car with NOS but have riden in one. Since it is intantaneous it sure feels like a 500 hp rush even when it's only 125 hp whereas the headers spread out the power over a wider rpm range. Even then a 40 hp gain of headers can't compare to a 125+ hp gain of NOS.
 
Desk top dyno is a joke, you can't go by that, I have one of those programs and its fun to play with but thats all. None of the numbers came up at the track like they do on the drag strip dyno. I should be in the 12's according to them. I re-tuned of course, I have an air/fuel ratio guage inside the car and re-jetted the carb, re-curved the distributor, yada yada yada. Its all good, and I am no rookie to this performance thing. I WILL NOT pay $800.00 for TTI headers after reading how they rust, some have clearance trouble if you read some other posts, and maybe capture the starter. Oh, ya if they do then thats another $130.00 for a mini starter. Desk top dyno is exactly what it is, not real world, out in the wind, heat, humidity, track condition etc. I'm done with this.
 
I'll replace my Hookers w/TTIs when the time comes. The Hookers are great, and I don't go offroading much, so ground clearance is not an issue. I just like the idea of having the best-looking, best performing, coolest stuff I can afford on my car. If I can't afford it, I make it myself. If I can't afford it or make it, I won't have it. If I was not a rookie and had all the experience with actual racing and A-F mixing gauges, re-jetting and cared all that much about 20-50 HP and two tenths of a second I suppose I'd rant about a couple hundred bucks over the best quality parts too.

:headbang:
 
MrMopar said:
Desk top dyno is a joke, you can't go by that, I have one of those programs and its fun to play with but thats all. None of the numbers came up at the track like they do on the drag strip dyno. I should be in the 12's according to them. I re-tuned of course, I have an air/fuel ratio guage inside the car and re-jetted the carb, re-curved the distributor, yada yada yada. Its all good, and I am no rookie to this performance thing. I WILL NOT pay $800.00 for TTI headers after reading how they rust, some have clearance trouble if you read some other posts, and maybe capture the starter. Oh, ya if they do then thats another $130.00 for a mini starter. Desk top dyno is exactly what it is, not real world, out in the wind, heat, humidity, track condition etc. I'm done with this.
Click to expand...

I think the reason you are not hitting the 12's is because of the high geared rearend you say you are running in your sig. 3.21s are high and are not really a performance gearing such as 3.91's or 4.10's, granted with those you probably wouldn't be happy driving on a freeway or highway. That is just my opinion anyway.
 
bought a set of headers from mopar...had talked with a guy that had a set and he said they werent bad and made by hedman...When i got mine they were made by "JR"s....thats capital 'J' for junk...didnt fit that great and leaked on the header flange right out of the box....
DONT BUY EM!
 
I think we have convinced him that TTI's fit the best and are the most expensive and the best route to go for his money is manifolds! lol . This thread really took off it seems. headers on a-body's seem to be a hot topic
 
how about the spitfire headders ??? i hear harold is selling them again... they are kinda shorty headder and go for about $200.. we put them on djvcuda's cuda and it was a huge difference over the 340 manifolds on his car...
 
Now thats a thought, where would you get the spitfires? I did have the 3.9's in the car at one time but took them out because of the high rpm's on the highway. Used them in the desktop dyno and dragstrip calculations at the time. The car did run in the 12's when I had slicks, and the nitrous on full at the starting line but the dyno numbers were way off. There are better simulator programs out there now.
 
MrMopar said:
Desk top dyno is a joke, you can't go by that, I have one of those programs and its fun to play with but thats all. None of the numbers came up at the track like they do on the drag strip dyno. I should be in the 12's according to them. I re-tuned of course, I have an air/fuel ratio guage inside the car and re-jetted the carb, re-curved the distributor, yada yada yada. Its all good, and I am no rookie to this performance thing. I WILL NOT pay $800.00 for TTI headers after reading how they rust, some have clearance trouble if you read some other posts, and maybe capture the starter. Oh, ya if they do then thats another $130.00 for a mini starter. Desk top dyno is exactly what it is, not real world, out in the wind, heat, humidity, track condition etc. I'm done with this.
Click to expand...

Funny if Desktop Dyno is such a joke why have I read at least 2 articles in reputable magazines (Mopar Muscle, and Hot Rod) that tested it against true engine builds in the 400 hp range come within 5 hp of what the dyno showed. Are you inputing in all the variables such as head flow numbers, cam timing events, etc...? That makes a tremendous difference. Thogthecaveman has a real good point there. 3.21's aren't exactly 1/4 mile gears. Great for the hwy though. If you look at my very first post where you started your rant you'll notice I didn't try to say you have to have TTI's. Just stated fact that the gain is far more than you say is 15 hp.

Also as far as capturing the starter goes. are they really worse than Hookers? I have Hookers on my Cuda and they capture my mini starter. Theirs no way to get it out without unbolting the header.
 
as capturing the starter goes. are they really worse than Hookers?
Click to expand...

i have run headman,hookers and now tti's and the ttis are the easiest in my experience so far to get the starter out..
 
fishy68, do you have TTI's on your car? Do you have the Desktop Dyno installed on your computer and input everything as it is with all the required info then taken your car to the track and ran it? If the answer is no to these questions, then you really have no idea. I have the dyno program, ran all the numbers through and it does not do it in the real world, believe me.
 
Mr. Mopar. No I do not have TTI's, I have Hookers like I said in my last post but a friend of mine has TTI's on his 69 Dart so I'm familiar with their fit from it. Also familiar with how they perform from reading dyno tests posted by magazines. Yes I do have Desktop dyno on my computer with all the correct numbers input. I have ran my car and it came out very close.

Now if you have any more personal smart remarks to me just save them. I don't care to reply. Apparently your trying to prove you know more than me. Well I give. You know more.

Also I didn't try to say you were better off going with TTI's. In fact if you take time to look back you'll see I said I don't blame you for not spending $800 for them.
 
Mr Mopar these guys on this forum arent out for bar fight they are trying to help you give them some respect
 
mikedevore said:
Hooker makes a set of 1 3/4 tubes that fit nice, plenty of sparkplug wire clearence on number 5 & #7. They will only fit with manual steering though.
I know the TTI's are expensive, but they are the only hedder that are designed for Mopars by Mopar people! To me, if i don't have to put up with burnt up plugwires, leaking gaskets, & bent drivers lower tubes, then they might be worth it. My next set will be TTI's. Has anybody tried a set of the Dougs headers that go above the steering center link?
Click to expand...


Hi Mike.. I have a 74 duster and am putting a 340 in it , I will look into a set of TTI's
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top