Dave_J
Well-Known Member
My definition of snug is, not torqued with a torque wrench, but tight enough that it will NOT back off. That's for "whatever" size fastener.
German spec's "Gutentight"
My definition of snug is, not torqued with a torque wrench, but tight enough that it will NOT back off. That's for "whatever" size fastener.
I think the OP has tightened the rocker down and the lifter piston has moved down past zero lash..... Then when the oil pressurizes the lifter it floats the valves.
With the intake manifold off I always look at the hydrolic lifter's top as I am turning the adjuster down, lifting the pushrod up and down as do this. If the top starts to compress you are at zero lash dry. Go 1/4 turn and LOCK that sucker down, do the next 15.
Fire it up and run the cam in at 2000 RPM for the 20 minutes. Then while still hot and lifters are pumped up, run the lash.
I think the OP has tightened the rocker down and the lifter piston has moved down past zero lash..... Then when the oil pressurizes the lifter it floats the valves.
With the intake manifold off I always look at the hydrolic lifter's top as I am turning the adjuster down, lifting the pushrod up and down as do this. If the top starts to compress you are at zero lash dry. Go 1/4 turn and LOCK that sucker down, do the next 15.
Fire it up and run the cam in at 2000 RPM for the 20 minutes. Then while still hot and lifters are pumped up, run the lash.
I think the OP has tightened the rocker down and the lifter piston has moved down past zero lash..... Then when the oil pressurizes the lifter it floats the valves.
With the intake manifold off I always look at the hydrolic lifter's top as I am turning the adjuster down, lifting the pushrod up and down as do this. If the top starts to compress you are at zero lash dry. Go 1/4 turn and LOCK that sucker down, do the next 15.
Fire it up and run the cam in at 2000 RPM for the 20 minutes. Then while still hot and lifters are pumped up, run the lash.
do it that way and the valve will be open when the lifter is pressurized.Normal position for a hydraulic lifter is past zero lash, so I'm missing your point.
do it that way and the valve will be open when the lifter is pressurized.
unless it's a Rhoads or comparable lifter.
zero lash is when plunger is just barely compressed below the lifter retainer.
No it won't. That's the proper way to set a hydraulic lifter. Think about it. You get the lifter on the base circle, adjust to zero lash and then what? You go PAST ZERO LASH. Right? RIGHT? I usually go 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Some go more. RIGHT?
I always set preload barely off the retainerNo zero lash is ZERO. When all of the slack is remove and there's NO lifter preload. THAT'S zero lash.
I always set preload barely off the retainer
I think the OP has tightened the rocker down and the lifter piston has moved down past zero lash..... Then when the oil pressurizes the lifter it floats the valves.
With the intake manifold off I always look at the hydrolic lifter's top as I am turning the adjuster down, lifting the pushrod up and down as do this. If the top starts to compress you are at zero lash dry. Go 1/4 turn and LOCK that sucker down, do the next 15.
Fire it up and run the cam in at 2000 RPM for the 20 minutes. Then while still hot and lifters are pumped up, run the lash.
Normal position for a hydraulic lifter is past zero lash, so I'm missing your point.
I never use a cheap lifter. I take it you never over adjusted a hydraulic lifter on a Chevy, yes you can over adjust and the lifter will keep the valves open when running.You can do that, but it's not advisable with the little crappy wire plunger retainer. The heavy duty snap ring is much more desirable in that instance.
I never use a cheap lifter. I take it you never over adjusted a hydraulic lifter on a Chevy, yes you can over adjust and the lifter will keep the valves open when running.
Learned that lesson when I was 14 on a 327 in an Impala
Of course if you bottom the plunger out. lol
Oil pressure can not on its own lift the valve off its seat. If the oil pressure could do that, hydraulic lifters would prevent every engine they are installed in from running. Lifter pump up is caused by high RPM valve float which allows the oil into the lifter and takes a bit of time to bleed down.I think the OP has tightened the rocker down and the lifter piston has moved down past zero lash..... Then when the oil pressurizes the lifter it floats the valves.
With the intake manifold off I always look at the hydrolic lifter's top as I am turning the adjuster down, lifting the pushrod up and down as do this. If the top starts to compress you are at zero lash dry. Go 1/4 turn and LOCK that sucker down, do the next 15.
Fire it up and run the cam in at 2000 RPM for the 20 minutes. Then while still hot and lifters are pumped up, run the lash.
When tightening the lash adjuster nut, one finger on the push rod while there is still clearance can rotate the push rod. Do not use a finger and thumb as you can still rotate the push rod while starting to compress the little spring in the lifter. With on finger, as soon as zero lash is obtained the pushrod will stop rotating. Then turn down for the prescribed preload to center the plunger travel.I always set preload barely off the retainer
with the pump on itThis is what I think the OP did since there was no oil inside the lifter. The lifters have a very light spring under the retainer and its easy to push past that tension and still rotate the pushrod.
On my 410 5.9 build, I took all 16 Hyd Roller lifters apart and emptied the light weight viz oil out and refilled them with 5W30. Made feeling that retainer move much easier.
Use a pump oil can to push oil in the lifter feed hole. Now they are primed. KISS.This is what I think the OP did since there was no oil inside the lifter. The lifters have a very light spring under the retainer and its easy to push past that tension and still rotate the pushrod.
On my 410 5.9 build, I took all 16 Hyd Roller lifters apart and emptied the light weight viz oil out and refilled them with 5W30. Made feeling that retainer move much easier.
Hydraulic rockers??Very unlikely the cam is bad. It’s not degreed so anything that happens after that is still wrong. It’s not hard to set valves. If the OP is struggling with it, he may want to consider hydraulic rockers and be done with it.
View attachment 1715769446
Magnum Rockers for hydraulic cams. Bolt them down. There is no adjusting them, other than perhaps shimming the pedestals up. And I guess you could run adjustable pushrods and run whatever cam if the pr hex adjusters cleared the pushrod guide plates but then you’d be back to the issue at hand
CertainlyLash Caps?