340 windage tray to oil pan edge fitment

-
C2ndLTpigeon

C2ndLTpigeon

Mopar or no Car!
Joined
May 18, 2019
Messages
1,140
Reaction score
895
Location
Indio California
So I am getting ready to seal up the lower end. The engine is a 1971 340. When I lay the oil pan on top without a gasket it looks like the factory windage tray that has a curled edge is interfering with the pan. My question is how do you go about installing the pan with the tray? Here are some pictures of what I'm talking about.

341553084_162859409867438_2140305188511040585_n.jpg


343567323_1265215540769556_5454669980428070665_n.jpg


342725447_255377236945531_5285594141922854325_n.jpg
 
I'm thinking that is normal but it's too close to the rail. I think a fat washer goes between the tray and the main cap to space it a little farther away from the rail. Could be wrong. Only had 1 and I could see the tray contacted the pan. You may be ok. Have you tried putting the pan on?
 
The above picture with the pan on top shows what I'm questioning. The pan siting like that with no gaskets on looks odd.
When I go to set the side gaskets, one side sits and lines up with the bolt holes and the other side sit far out as the tray is lower.
I am also unsure on how this is supposed to go on as I have never dealt with a windage tray. I'm assuming the gasket goes under it? I am using stock main bolts and 4 stock tray attaching bolts. If its too much of an issue ill just ditch the tray altogether.
Here are pics of the gaskets.
343288942_1315490902370135_4848158141243518918_n.jpg


342721799_806107067766765_5761807252338819062_n.jpg
 
If the bolt holes are egg shaped it is a 340-360 windage tray. If it is a round hole it is either a 340 or a 360 tray.
They made made 3 different trays.
The 360 main bolts are farther apart than a 318 or 340.
There is no washer between the main bolt and the windage tray. The 4 attachment bolts have washers.
 
Last edited:
In the photo with the pan sitting on it looks like that back corner of the tray (oil filter side) is holding the oil pan up. I had to trim that corner when I put a MP windage tray on my 318.
The sides should push inwards a bit as the pan goes on as mentioned earlier.
 
Had the same issue but was more of a concern on my stroked 360. Edges were pushed in and the rods hit that rolled edge. Had to modify the tray to fit and clearance properly. On a 340 with shorter stroke that shouldn’t be a concern.

My original post about this:

Post on using the MP tray on a 360 with 4” stoke and oem rods:
12many said:
Just thought I'd mention that if one intends on using the MP windage tray there will be some shimming and cutting required in order to clear the rods after the pan is installed. The tray kit comes with the studs, bolts and 8 washers, you double up the washers so the tray mounts a little further down to clear the rods bolt/nuts likely for stroker applications. That works fine until you install the pan. The windage tray has rolled edges that curl outward so when you push the pan home the tray is squeezed, reducing clearance. I had a few rods that hit the tray so I ended up cutting the rolled edges off. When the pan is installed the tray still is squeezed and sits tight to the pan sides, but there is ample clearance for the rods. This issue "may" only apply to the Blueprint stroker as they use the cast Scat 4" (iirc) crank with oem magnum rods w/arp bolts. Something to definitely consider if thinking about the MP windage tray.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
Note, when the pan is installed the edges of the windage tray (cut down, as shown in picture) fit close to the sides of the oil pan, so ignore the gap as shown between the tray edge and block.
e89ccf0b-b715-49e8-8658-b6a6ac947b48-png.png



ad143c9c-6c5b-4a8a-aa8b-af4587df7efa-png.png

The picture above shows how the un-modified tray mounts, the curled ends extend outward onto the block oil pan rails. Note how close the rods are to the tray, and if the pan were installed with the tray “as is” the tray will compress inward and the rods will then contact it.
 
Windage tray must be messed up. Try Loosening the attaching bolts and get it to clear.
C2ndLTpigeon said:
Mopar windage tray from classic industries.
Click to expand...
Probably your problem. Never had a problem like you are having. I've had three or four 340's and put windage trays on everything I build. including a /6. Try finding a used original windage tray.
 
Last edited:
66fs said:
Windage tray must be messed up. Try Loosening the attaching
Click to expand...

Exactly.

By the looks of it (slotted mounting holes) he should be able to slide the tray away till clear of the rail, tighten that side of the tray, then push the other side of the tray inwards till clear and tighten.
It’s not that complicated, the tray has flex.
Or simply grab the tray rails and squeeze it together till it sets clear of the block pan rails.
Or just push the pan down over the rails as is.
Easy peasy to make work.

7B9DEA6B-98A7-4335-B1BE-D2A8EF32A1C7.png
 
Here's a couple photos of mine on my 273. No issues here. MP 340 pan. Note the 2 bolts I have installed are on the extremes of the slotted oles. The other bolt holes are half exposed.
It was P4529790.

100_5153.JPG


windage tray2.jpg
 
Last edited:
Apriciate all the replies, I decided to just forgo the tray and sealed the lower without it. Not a big deal in my book. Engine will run fine without it. I figured it may if been an issue being a repo tray rather than an original.
 
Jadaharabi said:
There is no washer between the main bolt and the windage tray. The 4 attachment bolts have washers.
Click to expand...
Yep. The mopar tray came with the washers since 340/360 main caps are taller than 318 caps, and beefier, so you'd use them with the 318.
The tray should push in with the pan shoved down. The gasket interference is a problem though.. could it be the later after market trays are not sized right?
 
C2ndLTpigeon said:
Apriciate all the replies, I decided to just forgo the tray and sealed the lower without it. Not a big deal in my book. Engine will run fine without it. I figured it may if been an issue being a repo tray rather than an original.
Click to expand...
Probably could have simply bent it/folded it in a little and reinstalled it. Next time. Enjoy.
 
Used the milodon one with the ARP tray studs, no clearance issues and went right on. Only had to modify for the 4 bolt mains.

20190302_150845.jpg
 
C2ndLTpigeon said:
Looks nice and obviously better on oil return. Maybe next time. Its not the last time the 340 will be out of the car and I would like to do something like this eventually.
Click to expand...
Yep was advised to do this by Yellow Rose for better return, using the canton universal windage tray kit just for the one way screen. Here are all the cut holes and opened the side one a bit more.

20190224_141831.jpg
 
This is the Mopar Performance tray on my 273, we did have to form it a little to get the edges down and clear of the pan.
For some reason I want to say we didn't need the washers.
2018-03-31_002.jpg



Alan
 
C2ndLTpigeon said:
So I am getting ready to seal up the lower end. The engine is a 1971 340. When I lay the oil pan on top without a gasket it looks like the factory windage tray that has a curled edge is interfering with the pan. My question is how do you go about installing the pan with the tray? Here are some pictures of what I'm talking about.
Click to expand...

C2ndLTpigeon said:
View attachment 1716082226

View attachment 1716082227
Click to expand...

C2ndLTpigeon said:
View attachment 1716082228
Click to expand...
Pull the windage tray and squeeze the sides together a bit. It doesn't look like it would take much.
 
C2ndLTpigeon said:
Looks nice and obviously better on oil return. Maybe next time. Its not the last time the 340 will be out of the car and I would like to do something like this eventually.
Click to expand...
Milodon version is centered and short at the ends to allow easier drain back.
it also does not wrap as far around the crank and has larger louvers. With the 4" crank and 2 nut locked together...you can get the milodon really close to the crank and all you need to do is Notch for the rod bolts on some of the louvers.
 
Last edited:
Thought I had a pic of how close mine was, just had the nut bottomed out for under the tray and tightened the other on top. Plenty of clearance even with a 4" crank.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top