69_340_GTS
Well-Known Member
You cannot get those. Jegs and Summit don't seem to like to remove unavailable items from their catalogs.
You cannot get those. Jegs and Summit don't seem to like to remove unavailable items from their catalogs.
I was just looking for a new stroker crank, 4.15" to get the 426 ci I want. Scat had the kind you want for about $700/$800. Mopar has one too. $?If you gotta have a 340, SCAT can grind you a 360 main crank with a 340 stroke. Then bore your block to 4.04.
How much more work to the block is required to run the 4.15" vs the 4" crank? Obviously rods and/or pistons have to be different and will be more expensive, but I wouldn't mind hanging a 426 badge on the hood and have it be truthful.I was just looking for a new stroker crank, 4.15" to get the 426 ci I want. Scat had the kind you want for about $700/$800. Mopar has one too. $?
If you need to grind away at the cylinders bottom for rod clearance, that’s about it besides the cost of the crank and pistons themselves. Rod choice can keep costs down and between the 4.00 & 4.00+ cranks, the rods can be the same. It’s piston differences that can be more money. The added stroke of .15 or .18 or .25 will need to be addressed at the piston.How much more work to the block is required to run the 4.15" vs the 4" crank? Obviously rods and/or pistons have to be different and will be more expensive, but I wouldn't mind hanging a 426 badge on the hood and have it be truthful.
I got this from a book called How to build BIG inch Mopar small blocks. I know Barnes and Nobles has it.If you need to grind away at the cylinders bottom for rod clearance, that’s about it besides the cost of the crank and pistons themselves. Rod choice can keep costs down and between the 4.00 & 4.00+ cranks, the rods can be the same. It’s piston differences that can be more money. The added stroke of .15 or .18 or .25 will need to be addressed at the piston.
I got this from a book called How to build BIG inch Mopar small blocks. I know Barnes and Nobles has it.
A 4.04in bore with a 4.25 crank will get you 435 ci. if you want as close to 426 as you can get, you need a 4.2 crank and a 4.02 bore, or a 4.15 in crank and a 4.045 in bore. A 4.1 in stroke (Seems to be the norm) and a 4.05 in bore is only 422 ci. A good cam for the street is Mopar 4876348. .501 in lift w/ 230/234 Duration. Good for about 10 sec's. Use the early 360 as it has more meat where you need it. The '75 up to the Magnums are all thin wall castings and not a good choice. Magnum's are a good choice. I'm still looking for the cylinder mod's, rod's and pistons. Bore x bore x stroke x # cyl's x .785 = C I's. for heads, use Mopar # P5007141. has 2.02" valves. W/ a good valve job you can stuff 2.08" nail head valves in them. Does this help?
Look into shorter Chevy aftermarket rods for a 2.100" rod bearing, or even 2.000". You can then grind the crank journals down and even offset grind them to adjust the stroke a bit and/or piston heights. You might have to narrow up the big ends of such rods a bit.How much more work to the block is required to run the 4.15" vs the 4" crank? Obviously rods and/or pistons have to be different and will be more expensive, but I wouldn't mind hanging a 426 badge on the hood and have it be truthful.
Just for those looking for their block, what is the VIN on the 68?Look into shorter Chevy aftermarket rods for a 2.100" rod bearing, or even 2.000". You can then grind the crank journals down and even offset grind them to adjust the stroke a bit and/or piston heights. You might have to narrow up the big ends of such rods a bit.