360 Back from the Machine Shop

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dgc333

dgc333

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Just picked up my block and crank from the machine shop and though you folks would like to see some pictures of the work;

Block Being Decked.jpg


Engine on Boring Machine.jpg


Crank being balanced.jpg


Balance Card.jpg


Painted Block.jpg
 
Basically what I had done was;

1. the crank was turned 0.010" under to remove the scoring on the journals.
2. The rotating assembly was balanced. I am building the engine with Keith Black flat tops and Eagle SIR rods both of which are lighter than stock parts. If you are considering using parts like these and not balancing the rotating assembly don't. They removed 200 grams from one end of the crank and 240 from the other end. That's just shy of a pound of metal. Can't even imagine how much that thing would have vibrated that far out.
3. Had the block cleaned, soda blasted, magnafluxed and sonic checked. The mains were checked and didn't require a line hone with the ARP main bolts.
4. The block was zero decked to the KB pistons. From the factory one side was so far out of square it took all the metal in the decking operating to get it square.
5. The block was bored 0.030 over and honed with a boring plate.
6. Other incidentals were installing new cam bearings, I would normally do this but they didn't charge me so it saved me borrowing the cam bearing tool from my kids shop. They washed the block again after machining so I had them paint it before dipping it in rust preservative. They used etching primer and Hemi Orange.

I have the short block back together and before I button it up I will take some more pictures.
 
Don't have the numbers to the pennies but it borke down like this;

Clean the block, magnaflux, measure to determine work needed: $225
turn and polish the crank : $125
measure and balance rotating assembly: $375
Deck and bore block: $575

There not the cheapest around but have a great reputation in the hot rod circles. They do a lot of high performance work on all brands and have a big following in the Harley circles. Super clean shop and they take a lot of pride in their work (they gave me the CD with all the pictures of the work on my engine).
 
dgc333 said:
Don't have the numbers to the pennies but it borke down like this;

Clean the block, magnaflux, measure to determine work needed: $225
turn and polish the crank : $125
measure and balance rotating assembly: $375
Deck and bore block: $575

There not the cheapest around but have a great reputation in the hot rod circles. They do a lot of high performance work on all brands and have a big following in the Harley circles. Super clean shop and they take a lot of pride in their work (they gave me the CD with all the pictures of the work on my engine).
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Looks like nice work. I'm having the same thing done except for the balancing since I'm not changing to lighter rods. Plus I had the mains honed for the ARP studs. But where I'm having it done looks like a chop-shop! Damn place is cluttered and packed with stuff. But he too has a great reputation.... Supposedly the #88 truck in the Hooters race this weekend has one of his engines in it. He left for Florida this morning.....

Let's see if it grenades !
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looks good!,funny i just had the same thing done with my 360 except for the balancing.infact i pick up the goods today,even took the day off work so i can wrench and stare at it in the garage.l
 
FASTBACK340 said:
I'm having the same thing done except for the balancing since I'm not changing to lighter rods. Plus I had the mains honed for the ARP studs. But where I'm having it done looks like a chop-shop! Damn place is cluttered and packed with stuff. But he too has a great reputation.... Supposedly the #88 truck in the Hooters race this weekend has one of his engines in it. He left for Florida this morning.....
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Click to expand...

Even if you are using stock rods if the pistons are significantly lighter than the stock pistons you should really think about having it balanced.

I am using ARP main bolts which torque to 130 ft-lbs lubed with oil or 85 ft-lbs when lubed with ARP's grease. I fully expected to have to have the mains resized with these bolts but everything stayed true even with the higher clamping force. The machinest told me he wasn't surprised because the mopar bottom end is so strong.

The most important thing is the reputation the guy has for his work but if you don't have that imput I would go with the guy with the clean well laid out shop over one that's a mess.
 
dgc333 said:
This!
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He asked what is going in the motor, not what the motor is going in. :laughing: Come on now and give us your build recipe. Curious minds have to know...
 
BEAUTIOUS CUDA THERE DAVE. That will definately be a total package and something to be "REALLY PROUD OF". My hat is off to you..........Don......
 
Oh! :\

As previously mentioned the bottom is is Keith Black KB107 flat top pistons at zero deck on Eagle SIR rods.

The cam is a Comp Extreme Energy XE268H (268/280, 224/[email protected]", .477/.480, .509/.512 with the 1.6 ratio rockers)

Heads are a set of Magnum heads with 62cc chambers giving me 10.8:1 compression.

Intake is a Professional Products CrossWind dual plane. Still keeping my eyes open for a deal on a vacuum secondary carb in the 750cfm range.

Hedman 1 5/8" headers into a 2.5" exhaust with 50 series Flowmaster Delta Flows.

The engine will be infront of an A833OD overdrive 4spd and an 8.25" 3.55 sure-gripped rear end.
 
Well I had a busy weekend! :)

Here are pictures of the assemblied short block and long block.

Top Short Block.jpg


Bottom Short Block.jpg


Long Block.jpg
 
dgc333 said:
Oh! :\



Hedman 1 5/8" headers into a 2.5" exhaust with 50 series Flowmaster Delta Flows.

QUOTE]
do you know how the 50 series flowmaster compare with the dynomax super turbo's for sound? i am trying to decide on which way to go. I just bought a set of tti ceramic coated headers.
Click to expand...
 
freshayr said:
do you know how the 50 series flowmaster compare with the dynomax super turbo's for sound?
Click to expand...

The Flows will be louder even though they are longer.
 
freshayr said:
dgc333 said:
Oh! :\

Hedman 1 5/8" headers into a 2.5" exhaust with 50 series Flowmaster Delta Flows.

QUOTE]
do you know how the 50 series flowmaster compare with the dynomax super turbo's for sound? i am trying to decide on which way to go. I just bought a set of tti ceramic coated headers.
Click to expand...


Well I would say the 50 series are quieter than the short super turbo's and about the same as the longer hemi super turbo. I have a buddy with a built 360 tti's and a 2.5" system with 50 series Flowmasters in his Barracuda. It sounds great, just enough rumble to know there is something under the hood but not so much to drive you nuts with interior resonance.

FWIW, I have a 3" single 50 series SUV muffler (thicker than the standard 50 series) on my Dakota and you get the flowmaster sound at idle and WOT but going down the road it's barely noticable. This is just what I want for the Cuda, the glass-paks under the car now wear on you after an hour or so on the hiway.

I like Dynomax Super Turbos and have used them on a number of vehicles over the years. I am going with the Flowmasters because my daughter is doing the exhaust over for me at her muffler shop and they stock Flowmaster and Magna Flow products. I had thought about the Magna Flows but since Katie is doing this as a freebee for me and the Flowmasters are less expensive I figured that I would not hit her bottom line any more than necessary.
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How are the 50 series comparable in sound to the 40 series? The 30 series from what I hear are really loud.
 
50 series are 3 chambers, They are alittle quieter. The 40s are 2 chambered. Also the new deltaFlows have a deeper tome and dont drone as bad as the older flows.

I have 3" 40 series deltaflows on my car and it ends before the rear. Its actually pretty quiet while cruising at 2500 rpms.
 
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