Dartswinger70
Well-Known Member
yeah I ran into that I ended up comparing cam specs for what I could get close. I ended up with a Summit .444/.444 lift SUM K6901. Not saying its the same, just what I chose.
360 Street/Strip Cam?
- Thread starter CluelessMopar
- Start date
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Start watching this member here and follow along to see how he tunes his 318 to run very well. He is currently starting on a 5.9. He makes the most and best of his engines to go fast cheaply. This should be a good start for you.
https://m.youtube.com/c/318willrun
If you can stand the fact that it won't pull a greasy string outta a cat's ***, you can go ahead and cam it for the eventual out come now.
You are missing a whole lot, but that’s OK. Crawl before walk, walk before run, etc….
Pick up a few books. The MoPar engines manual (for small blocks) How to rebuild & How to hot rod my small block Chrysler. These will give you a good base to start with.
Scody21
Just send it
It’s good to have goals. Takes time. You just got a boat load of advise from some really smart guys....
Building a hot rod takes a plan, time and money. Your best bet is to ask for help with the plan before you get too ahead of yourself. To get to that goal, you have to realize that your not just building a motor, or suspension, or whatever else piecemealed togeather. You have to look at each system of the car and how they work tegeather. Yes an ET can be calculated by HP and weight. So you need to know how much your car weighs. This will dictate how much HP you need for said ET. Now, what rear gearing, transmission gearing, and tire size are necessary for cam selection. Clearly you want a street car, so that leaves you with 91 octane and lower you can get at the pump, this limits you on compression and don’t want to be much more that 10/1 or so depending on heads. BTW, Cams are somewhat cheep, 150-200 bucks. And a few on here are known to change Cams more than they change their underwear.
As they say, the 6 P’s are your friend. “Proper Planing Prevents Piss Poor Proformace”
Carry on...
Building a hot rod takes a plan, time and money. Your best bet is to ask for help with the plan before you get too ahead of yourself. To get to that goal, you have to realize that your not just building a motor, or suspension, or whatever else piecemealed togeather. You have to look at each system of the car and how they work tegeather. Yes an ET can be calculated by HP and weight. So you need to know how much your car weighs. This will dictate how much HP you need for said ET. Now, what rear gearing, transmission gearing, and tire size are necessary for cam selection. Clearly you want a street car, so that leaves you with 91 octane and lower you can get at the pump, this limits you on compression and don’t want to be much more that 10/1 or so depending on heads. BTW, Cams are somewhat cheep, 150-200 bucks. And a few on here are known to change Cams more than they change their underwear.
As they say, the 6 P’s are your friend. “Proper Planing Prevents Piss Poor Proformace”
Carry on...
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Its more than doable. That's essentially my goal too but for me I'm after a near stock idle or at least an idle that doesn't hint at its performance. I chose a Crower 282HDP cam part no# that's 222/234 on a 112 LSA, barring that I have the 292HDP 227/237 112 on the shelf ill try if I need more rpm. What you really need to get it done is at least 11-1 comp and this requires a good tune. Build the best short block you can first then go from there.
Good Luck.
Cheapest horsepower, 150 shot of nitrous $500
Start with the 6 P’s!
Follow the 5-C program.
Carb
Cam
Compression
Converter
Cogs (gears)
They all work together.
Follow the 5-C program.
Carb
Cam
Compression
Converter
Cogs (gears)
They all work together.
Is this a running engine? Stock I take it? Leave it stock and a driver as you buy your parts and do it all at once.
Use magnum manifolds pointing forward. Cobble together a cheap ebay turbo kit. You could get the power number required for a couple grand without messing with anything else. I was half joking before but I'm also somewhat serious. Except for nitrous it's probably the cheapest route. Your biggest enemy in the stock bottom end will be insufficient ring gap but if you gap the rings and have a decent tune then the 600 hp or so is entirely achievable with a stock bottom end and a mild cam.
j par
Well-hung Member
I've been trying to tell @318willrun that for 8 years now... Bless his heart he keeps trying...
If that is a stock LA 360 4 bbl engine, like out of a truck, it will already have the "340 Cam" in it from the factory.
Lift: 429/444
Duration 269°/276°
Lift: 429/444
Duration 269°/276°
This is what I want to do also but SO TIRED of hearing ‘what are your goals’ my goal is to put a turbo on my engine!!!
Haha me too! If I can still get away with the dished pistons in my build a big rear mount turbo is totally a consideration.
512Stroker
We are all here because we are not all there.
You want to run 11's you best start thinking about adding cubic inch displacement, like a very well built 408.
Why does everyone suggest starting so small.
I'd start with a cylinder head that flowed at least 300cfm @.500.
It be kind of nice idling to a mid 11 with a 451 or so cubes.
I won’t argue that bigger is better and easier to run any number ET, but at 360 cubes, it is plenty enough.
512Stroker
We are all here because we are not all there.
I dont buy it. I am from Missouri, you are going to have to show me.
Prove it.
Keep in mind that the OP is retaining the factory pistons and heads.
All he doing is a cam swap.
justinp61
Well-Known Member
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My advice for the OP is to buy another 360 core or at least a short bock and start saving $$ for parts and machine work. Drive the car while you're building the new engine. When you have the new engine finished sell the one currently in the car.
11's with a 360 shouldn't be hard, My 340 did it with light flat top pistons, a hydraulic cam and a good set of ported Edelbrock heads. As others have mentioned there's more to it than just the engine, it'll also take the right converter and rear gear too.
11's with a 360 shouldn't be hard, My 340 did it with light flat top pistons, a hydraulic cam and a good set of ported Edelbrock heads. As others have mentioned there's more to it than just the engine, it'll also take the right converter and rear gear too.
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512Stroker
We are all here because we are not all there.
Dont get me wrong, I do believe you can make an A Body run in the 11's with a 360 cid engine. But not just by swapping the cam in the OP's offerings.
PRH
Well-Known Member
Truth
It cost more to since most passenger car engines of our favorite era are low compression. Then the heads need to be ether seriously ported or purchased aftermarket. This will out you at a $4500 mark even before you choose a cam or have block work done for the stroker kit to be installed.
CluelessMopar
Well-Known Member
Appreciate all the responses here guys! I think the biggest take-away is for me to do a little more long term planning and rebuild or acquire a 408 short block. I'm new to a lot of the engine building and I've been going pretty gung-ho with my upgrades on my Dart since I bought it but I'll slow down and form a plan of attack on what my engine needs should be.
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