mygasser
Well-Known Member
no it's not, but it worksYeah, well... that's probably not the best way to go about it..
no it's not, but it worksYeah, well... that's probably not the best way to go about it..
You sound like a flat rate mechanic. That’s why I’m hourly.no it's not, but it works
Hahah, What a burn!!!You sound like a flat rate mechanic. That’s why I’m hourly.
nope, always been hourly. if it was a customer job i'd give them the option and leave the choice to them. always had plenty of work where i don't need to eke every hour from a job.You sound like a flat rate mechanic. That’s why I’m hourly.
All in good funHahah, What a burn!!!
This will work..... as he has said, you can use a torch as steel does have a lower melting temp as cast iron does. You do need to keep the torch turned down on the temperature
so as to keep most of the heat on the exhaust stud. As it melts down, take a regular screwdriver, or pick and work the loose stuff out. I have never checked to see how
deep the stud hole is, just make sure you don't go to far.
I have also used my mig welder, and used a 3/8" fender washer, just be sure to
grind the inside of the washer hole, then place the washer flat to the head, and
turn your heat setting up to high, then go into the hole with the mig wire, and
fill the drilled out area of the stud, up with wire including the washer, then place
a larger nut to the washer, and fill with weld. This will put quite a bit of heat to
the stud, which should loosen up the rust, crud, etc, and you should be able
to remove it. Once it starts to turn....work it back and forth, and it should
come on out. If it breaks off, go back to the drawing board, and start over.
I have gotten everyone out, that the broken stud needed to be removed.
Don't know if this was encouraging or negative. I'm going to take it as the first route thoughDo something you've never done before with tools you probably don't have..
I've gotten all studs outside of driver side alreadyI would go farther than that. I'd pull them both. What if you need to do work on the other side in six months and break one of those? Studs are cheap.
Well good. I hope you put some kind of anti seize compound on all of them so they don't break again.I've gotten all studs outside of driver side already
Difficult location, poor visibility, amateur skill level, only fairly crude strategies available while in car. How good are you blindfolded with a shotgun?
Yessir! Won't get caught with my pants down twice. At least, not in the garageWell good. I hope you put some kind of anti seize compound on all of them so they don't break again.
Ouch! Sounds like the best way for you you to do this is to pull the head and go from there. Use one of the recommendations in this thread depending on your skill level. You can do it!Does anyone have any recommended mobile welders or machine shops in Orange County, California? The only shop I've found local quoted me $400 and I would have to tow it to them
Does anyone have any recommended mobile welders or machine shops in Orange County, California? The only shop I've found local quoted me $400 and I would have to tow it to them
Maybe my post is now a little clearer.Do something you've never done before with tools you probably don't have..
Does anyone have any recommended mobile welders or machine shops in Orange County, California? The only shop I've found local quoted me $400 and I would have to tow it to them
Now you’re talking. LolTry talking it to a muffler shop. They mig weld all day long.
A good way to remove the stud with head removed but would like to add. Would it also help to let the stud cool after welding and heat the head around the stud to expand the metal around the stud for a easier removal? Smacking the stud with a pointed chisel before welding may also help in loosing the stud. If not too deep, I have had luck with a small sharp chisel and set a notch at the edge of the stud and spun it out by tapping gently. In any case, removal of the head is first.This will work..... as he has said, you can use a torch as steel does have a lower melting temp as cast iron does. You do need to keep the torch turned down on the temperature
so as to keep most of the heat on the exhaust stud. As it melts down, take a regular screwdriver, or pick and work the loose stuff out. I have never checked to see how
deep the stud hole is, just make sure you don't go to far.
I have also used my mig welder, and used a 3/8" fender washer, just be sure to
grind the inside of the washer hole, then place the washer flat to the head, and
turn your heat setting up to high, then go into the hole with the mig wire, and
fill the drilled out area of the stud, up with wire including the washer, then place
a larger nut to the washer, and fill with weld. This will put quite a bit of heat to
the stud, which should loosen up the rust, crud, etc, and you should be able
to remove it. Once it starts to turn....work it back and forth, and it should
come on out. If it breaks off, go back to the drawing board, and start over.
I have gotten everyone out, that the broken stud needed to be removed.
Maybe even go further, install new studs.Well good. I hope you put some kind of anti seize compound on all of them so they don't break again.
Well I was takin that for granted. lolMaybe even go further, install new studs.