383 cam advice?

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RustyRatRod said:
The cylinder heads will need machining for the correct valve springs for those. Mo money. Those are pretty fast rates of lift, which make power but they are a little hard on valve trains. It's your choice.
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Yup, I will need to mill them but I have the tools to do it :)
There is always decisions to made along the way. I decide now that I can live with that, the car will not get tremendous amounts of mileage!
 
MOPARMAGA said:
Yes, 110 or 112 lsa, 220 @.050 is too small for a 383, your dynamic compression will be higher than your static, with iron heads yikes. I mentioned the 474 because that size lift & duration requires nothing more than a spring upgrade. You'll still have massive torque. I ran that cam with 2.76 gears with no issues, I did upgrade to 3.91 because I wanted to get going quicker. The purple shafts maybe old design but the last time I rode in a car with a purple shaft it made me smile. Over .500 Lift isn't necessary with a cast iron head. Duration is all you need to focus on. Howards has a 484 or 488 with several different durations, I think 3 different cam grinds.
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I will mill the valve stems to fit teflon seals anyway, so there will be room for heavy springs.
 
496 polara said:
Of the Hughes and Howards cams you posted I would go with the Hughes for a heavy car with 3.23 gears and hp manifolds.

The hotrod article is a good example of your cam choices.That engine would have faired better with 1 3/4 headers IMO as well.
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I have actually started considering headers instead of the HP manifolds. I just remembered I have a nice used pair. Think they are 1 3/4"
 
aaronk785 said:
I like the howards with the bigger split for stock manifolds. With 93.5 octane I'd run as much compression as I could get by with. Let the numbers guru's on here figure that for you. Comp cams 911 springs will easily handle that cam. I ran them on a comp cams 306 .555 lift solid for years and it never missed a lick even at 6500.
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Just changed my mind, it will get headers.
 
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RustyRatRod said:
The 683901 is fantastic. He did mention budget which is why I made mention of the Elgin.....obviously since I've still gotten zero response, I'm just not here so......I'll really not be here. LOL
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Since I'm in Sweden there's a time difference, and I was busy last night.
Been looking at the cam(s) you recommended but they look rather small in both duration and lift?
The LS on both Elgin and Crane are 112-114 which I think is a little high?
 
HP2 said:
Interesting reading indeed! Makes me start thinking of stretching my budget to a hydraulic roller :rolleyes:
Just wonder why they choose a RMP instead of the lower Performer.
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Both items will produce extra torque and horsepower.
In addition, the RPM is a better intake even on mild engines with a higher RPM ceiling to grow into. A Performer is a basic aluminum version or OE replacement intake manifold.

HP2 said:
I have actually started considering headers instead of the HP manifolds. I just remembered I have a nice used pair. Think they are 1 3/4"
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Perfect size.
HP2 said:
Just changed my mind, it will get headers.
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Power wise, wise choice.
HP2 said:
Since I'm in Sweden there's a time difference, and I was busy last night.
Been looking at the cam(s) you recommended but they look rather small in both duration and lift?
The LS on both Elgin and Crane are 112-114 which I think is a little high?
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The wider center lines do a few things over a narrow one. Sometimes good, sometimes not so good. A lot depends on the characteristics and usage of the cam and the vehicle. A wider centerline will;

Have a smoother idle.
Extend the top end HP curve. (Hang on to the power longer.)
Normally require more static compression to equal a more narrow centerline. It will produce less power down low which isn’t what most people want, but, if your combo is a slight miss match and/or not a hot street ride or race car, this becomes desirable with low numerical gears, large tires, low compression engine and a mismatched stall converter.

I did this with a 318 @ 7.8-1 compression ratio & 3.21 gears. It still burned rubber off the line very well. Once the engine comes into its power band, it worked very well even though it still had stock small valve heads. The volumetric efficiency rpm area of it all starts to work, you regain ground.

An old member here once used a Crane Cam @ 216/228-.454/.480-112, listed above, in a 360 in his bracket Duster. He ran the car down to mid 12’s.
The car also had a good diet plan, not an extreme one, and lot of gear.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Both items will produce extra torque and horsepower.
In addition, the RPM is a better intake even on mild engines with a higher RPM ceiling to grow into. A Performer is a basic aluminum version or OE replacement intake manifold.


Perfect size.

Power wise, wise choice.

The wider center lines do a few things over a narrow one. Sometimes good, sometimes not so good. A lot depends on the characteristics and usage of the cam and the vehicle. A wider centerline will;

Have a smoother idle.
Extend the top end HP curve. (Hang on to the power longer.)
Normally require more static compression to equal a more narrow centerline. It will produce less power down low which isn’t what most people want, but, if your combo is a slight miss match and/or not a hot street ride or race car, this becomes desirable with low numerical gears, large tires, low compression engine and a mismatched stall converter.

I did this with a 318 @ 7.8-1 compression ratio & 3.21 gears. It still burned rubber off the line very well. Once the engine comes into its power band, it worked very well even though it still had stock small valve heads. The volumetric efficiency rpm area of it all starts to work, you regain ground.

An old member here once used a Crane Cam @ 216/228-.454/.480-112, listed above, in a 360 in his bracket Duster. He ran the car down to mid 12’s.
The car also had a good diet plan, not an extreme one, and lot of gear.
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Good and useful information, thanks!

Don't you sacrifice some of the low end power and response and with a RPM intake?
 
HP2 said:
Good and useful information, thanks!

Don't you sacrifice some of the low end power and response and with a RPM intake?
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Not IMO! I have it on a ‘00-5.9 that is otherwise stock except the following. A 600 Edelbrock and 1-3/4 headers into a 2-1/2 true dual exhaust. Chrome box ignition.

3.55’s on 26-1/2 tires stock 727 trans and stock low stall converter in a ‘79 B body. Works excellent.
 
That comp muscle magnum cam looks like my choice for a 383 with 3.23 ,that high lift one will idle and drive around awful and have stink exhaust, that was my experience any way .Way easy to over cam a 383.
 
pro451bee said:
That comp muscle magnum cam looks like my choice for a 383 with 3.23 ,that high lift one will idle and drive around awful and have stink exhaust, that was my experience any way .Way easy to over cam a 383.
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It's very easy to over cam any engine. And for this engine I really want to find the cam that really makes it shine.
not too big and not too small and that's why I ask for advice from you experienced people.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Not IMO! I have it on a ‘00-5.9 that is otherwise stock except the following. A 600 Edelbrock and 1-3/4 headers into a 2-1/2 true dual exhaust. Chrome box ignition.

3.55’s on 26-1/2 tires stock 727 trans and stock low stall converter in a ‘79 B body. Works excellent.
Click to expand...

I went from RPM to the lower Performer, shaved off the J heads and put on a smaller 600 carb on a 360 that came in a Cuda I bought and it really woke her up. It had an unknown cam but it was kinda hot for a street car. I shaved off a little too much so it got 180-195 psi cyl pressure. I had a hard time tuning carb and timing to make it run good without pinging on pump gas.
Afterwards it always impossible to know what made what but that engine got a very broad powerband.
 
HP2 said:
Since I'm in Sweden there's a time difference, and I was busy last night.
Been looking at the cam(s) you recommended but they look rather small in both duration and lift?
The LS on both Elgin and Crane are 112-114 which I think is a little high?
Click to expand...

Depends on what you're doing. I haven't seen where you've made that abundantly clear yet.
 
I'd go with something like the Lunati voodoo 702.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Link? Specs?
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Voodoo Hydraulic Flat Tappet & Lifter Kit - Chrysler 361-440 Three Bolt 262/268

Hydraulic Flat Tappet Cam. Mid-level performance street cam with excellent drivability. Works well with stock type exhaust manifolds and dual plane intake with mild 4 bbl carb. This is an Awesome 4x4 and performance marine cam where dry exhaust is used. Improved valve springs and roller rockers recommended.; Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 262/268; Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 220/226; Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .475/.494; LSA/ICL: 112/108; Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd; RPM Range: 1400-5800; Includes: Cam & Lifters
 
66fs said:
I have an original 68 383 Automatic Formula S fastback car. I put a 268 comp cams in it when it was a daily driver. Not sure why 400 ft lb of torque would not be enough for you. Ran factory 72 400 intake and TQ for years on a build similar to what you want to do. 383 donor from a Newport, honed with torque plate, just to clean up the cylinders, Speed Pro file to fit rings, 906 heads, great valve job, cleaned up the bowls, windage tray, 402 pan, hp,hv oil pump, MP distributor kit with a chrome box. No lack of low end, definately would scream if called on. It would pull 16 to 18 mpg cruising highway. I always felt the original HP cam was better. Getting ready to redo the original 383, this time I went with a Racer Brown mechanical cam. ST-1 226 degrees @.050 and .450 lift intake and exhaust, 107 degrees intake centerline.
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It would be sooo interesting to hear your opinions after your test run!
With that narrow LSA it should make a lot of power from the bottom. I'm sure you will get tears in your eyes if you're behind LOL
 
273 said:
Voodoo Hydraulic Flat Tappet & Lifter Kit - Chrysler 361-440 Three Bolt 262/268

Hydraulic Flat Tappet Cam. Mid-level performance street cam with excellent drivability. Works well with stock type exhaust manifolds and dual plane intake with mild 4 bbl carb. This is an Awesome 4x4 and performance marine cam where dry exhaust is used. Improved valve springs and roller rockers recommended.; Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 262/268; Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 220/226; Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .475/.494; LSA/ICL: 112/108; Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd; RPM Range: 1400-5800; Includes: Cam & Lifters
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Yup, that's another cam in that range.
Question is if it's grind with .904 lifters in mind or just another Chevy profile?
 
HP2 said:
It would be sooo interesting to hear your opinions after your test run!
With that narrow LSA it should make a lot of power from the bottom. I'm sure you will get tears in your eyes if you're behind LOL
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That will be a while since the car is 1,500 miles from me for paint and body. I'll just have to wait. Call a good cam grinder and get their recommendations. Better have all your cars specs and what you want the car to do, handy though.
 
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66fs said:
That will be a while since the car is 1,500 miles from me for paint and body. I'll just have to wait. Call a good cam grinder and get their recommendations. Better have all your cars specs and what you want the car to do, handy though.
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Seems like you still are a little closer than me! LOL
I will do as you say, ask some good cam grinder and follow the recommendations.
I know pretty every detail except for the exact weight, but that we can estimate
 
Normally, like Richard was saying and eluding to, the tighter 108 would peak higher and earlier. I also was surprised. Also as Richard was saying, there are generalizations due to what is normally seen and exceptions which we have just seen. In this case the top end of the 108. But basically this is what happens.

@273, good video post. I did t know Rich did that test.
(Or forgot....)
 
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