383 power upgrade help

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Jadaharabi said:
Contact @MOPAROFFICIAL for head work or help, he's in your area.
You already have close chambered heads use them. About the only thing they need is mild port job and a bigger exhaust valve. In the picture it looks like they have the 1.5 or is it 1.60 exhaust valve but I could be wrong.

It looks like you could clean up that bore with a hone job, put a fresh set of rings and bearings in it and that short block would be good to go.
Throw in about a 480 lift purple shaft for a cam. You already have the intake. Stick a 750 or 780 Holley vacuum secondary carburetor on it. Or a 4779 holley 750 but your mileage will drop.

Stick it down in that a body with a set of b-body headers for a 383 and drive or cruise across America with it after you make sure you have a good transmission.
FYI you can use B-body headers in an A body with a 383 but you cannot use them with a 440. The reason being the 440 is an RB block which puts the heads farther out toward the fenders. Which makes the tubes hit things.
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I have a A833 OD that ill have to take to a shop i believe its from 77 Has a plat on it that i believe was put in an A body at some point maybe someone here could tell me. Ill try and find a pic of it and post it below within the next hour currently in Class!
 
Joey N said:
I am certainly no rich kid I bought the engine for $700 since then been working every few days after school in a grocery store for this build it’s honestly one of the only things I look forwards to every day is thinking about getting it in the car lol. I’ll get better pictures of the cylinders and the piston tops I’ll clean off so we can see the stamping clearly
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Does your school have an Automotive class?
 
Can anyone tell me if 15x8 4.25 backspacing rears will fit on my 73 duster aswell at 15x6 3.25 backspacing on the front? Also it has disk brakes on the front drums on rear
 
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Joey N said:
Can anyone tell me if 15x8 4.25 backspacing rears will fit on my 73 duster aswell at 15x6 3.25 backspacing on the front? Also it has disk brakes on the front drums on rear
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Take a couple tires off and see.
 
Didn't say your were dumb. anyway those wheels should fit
 
his straight edge across the back should be sat 'on' the lip not 'in' it. so the rears are more like 4.5" bs and fronts 3.5" bs. on the plus side more back space is better than too little as you can fine tune fitment with spacer shims.
neil.
 
Those wheels should fit fine. I have 15x8 on the rear and 15x6 on the front of my 72 Duster.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
The heads need guides, exh seats were going away they were so bad.
Springs were in at 1.883 130-135 seat and 250ish @.500
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How much less to recondition them compared to a set of $1400(plus shipping and a tax) Stealths?

At my shop the price would likely be pretty close…….depending on exactly how bad the oe heads are.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Man, yall are just makin this SO dang hard when it does't have to be. Just build up a stone stock blueprinted 383HP engine and call it a day. Blueprinted = what the factory did NOT do. That includes decking the block to the factory spec and making it squared with the crank centerline. Have the crank ground and indexed. That means every crank throw is exactly the same. Get the heads milled so the chambers are all the same size. Use a set of the Speed Pro HP pistons so they come up in the bore good and tall at TDC. Use the STOCK spec Road Runner cam. Get a distributor with a good, loose advance curve. Bolt on an Edelbrock RPM intake, Quick Fuel 750 mechanical secondary (double pumper) and a set of headers. The stock factory torque rating on the 383HP is 425 LB FT. That's FOUR HUNDRED TWENTY FIVE POUND FEET. With the above machining techniques and added bolt ons with the good ignition curve, you will be all over 500 LB FT from a basically stock 383, with GREAT street manners and vacuum out the BUTT to run power brakes. WHY do it any other way?
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RRR's Guide to Hot rod bliss for big blocks.
 
In the mid/late 80’s I re-ringed several BBM’s that turned out pretty well.
Same formula for all of them.
Get the block & crank hot tanked
Dingleberry hone bores
Polish crank
New cam bearings and expansion plugs
Heads reconned(only what they needed, generally a valve job, new ex guides, resurfaced)
New hp springs
Some sort of typical hot street cam
Aftermarket intake
New carb
Headers

All of the ones I did like that I considered successful and the owners ran the heck outta them for years.

Of course……the cores are all close to 40 years older now.
 
PRH said:
How much less to recondition them compared to a set of $1400(plus shipping and a tax) Stealths?

At my shop the price would likely be pretty close…….depending on exactly how bad the oe heads are.
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What I meant by seats going away was they were leaking some due to guide play.
Guides replaced and 168 dollar a set 2.08/1.74 valves with a lil blend in. Considerable amount less. I haven't cc'd his chambers yet, I will and see where it's at. Obviously I'm considering the compression in this, he really needs some and or to keep it, being this low. Money is the other factor, he's in college.
 
fishmens67 said:
Is there a plan?
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Nothing fancy, a set of $168 Falcon valves with locks, have guides done.. maybe option for a hard seat and do a better valve job, working exhaust ports a little bit for that bigger valve. If anyone don't know already... he has eight to one sealed power/FM Pistons and all of the aftermarket heads are a lot larger in chamber size. I think when he builds something with a good 10 to 1 piston he should buy a set of aluminum heads.
While it's fine...
.. not everything has to be a..
"while we're there"... type of situation.
He's in college.

He could buy a Speedmaster valve spring retainer lock kit at 214 181 for like 250 bucks or something and since he's having the guides done just have them done for 11/32 ... but now he'll be paying for some hand blending of the bowls and its for what... 516 heads and 8.1 .
If it were me, doing the work for me.. lol I might.. or might mill some Chinese heads down even... but I know how to do it and have most of the tools/ing.
 
Sounds like a good plan to me. All in all he should/ will have a decent running 383.
One thing for sure a 383 in a 4spd A-body will be a respectable combo.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
What I meant by seats going away was they were leaking some due to guide play.
Guides replaced and 168 dollar a set 2.08/1.74 valves with a lil blend in. Considerable amount less. I haven't cc'd his chambers yet, I will and see where it's at. Obviously I'm considering the compression in this, he really needs some and or to keep it, being this low. Money is the other factor, he's in college.
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Thanks for helping him out.
 
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