4 speed ka-booom !

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If you really wanna stick with the factory box, you might be able to talk me out of a recently gone through a body "pro shifted" box done by liberty gear.....PM for details if you want...
 
jtkaaa07 said:
I build a lot of these transmission's and there damn strong, but depending how your launching, the weak point will eventually go, and it aint going to be the rear end normally! are you using a 2 step or just dumping it to the clutch? One old school trick I have done for years is tapering the ends of the slider shoes, and hardening them as mentioned above, this is probably the weakest part of the gear box, and it will normally be the part that blows apart first. And I applaud you for running a stick car even with the technology out the with the automatic's, nothing better then banging gear's like Ronnie Sox, and Dick Landy used too!!!!
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Thank you for the tips on making the gearbox stronger! I may need a bit more of a visual of the part you're talking about as this will be my first time going through a gearbox of any kind. It looks like I better start learning and I'm not afraid too. And it seems you totally get the whole idea of having the for speed for drag racing, it's really about the fun of it and not so much the winning lol that's fun too!
Still enjoying the honeymoon at the coast, I'll be back home this weekend digging into the tranny. View attachment 20150921_170145.jpg

View attachment 20150923_104431-1.jpg
 
replicaracer43 said:
If you really wanna stick with the factory box, you might be able to talk me out of a recently gone through a body "pro shifted" box done by liberty gear.....PM for details if you want...
Click to expand...
I've been told I'm a pretty good talker in my day, but if I talk to you out of that Pro shift box by Liberty gear I'll need to have some kind of an award I think? Lol
Pm on it's way ! !!
 
jtkaaa07 said:
I build a lot of these transmission's and there damn strong, but depending how your launching, the weak point will eventually go, and it aint going to be the rear end normally! are you using a 2 step or just dumping it to the clutch? One old school trick I have done for years is tapering the ends of the slider shoes, and hardening them as mentioned above, this is probably the weakest part of the gear box, and it will normally be the part that blows apart first. And I applaud you for running a stick car even with the technology out the with the automatic's, nothing better then banging gear's like Ronnie Sox, and Dick Landy used too!!!!
Click to expand...

Ooop's, I didn't answer your questions. Dumping clutch. BUT- here's the thing, I was running a stock heavy duty clutch til this last race witch I believe was actually saving everything behind it. 4th gear was slipping badly and adjustments where needed. So, I thought stronger clutch ? I buy and install an ACT drag racing clutch - well I do burnout , rev up to 4k or so like normal and holly crap! It was violent ! Well next time up I let go at about 2k and floor it and that seemed to work better. I could tell when i shifted it felt grabbier (i know that can't be a word but....) besides the tranny I've got a host of other things that need attention. No weight transfer needs to be addressed. New (to me) hurst v-gate needs install. I would like a 2 step and maybe play with more tire pressure to slip the tires off the line? Or maybe the weight transfer will keep the violence down? Along with a roll bar and that I'm only 2 tenths from needing anyways, I've got a lot to chew on over the winter. First I got to fix the tranny, install it, and test it before I can mock up the v gate then totally disassembled the car and build it back up again. No problem right !??
 
once you add the roll bar, you will be 3 tenths from needing one. lol
get chewing ! you will get it sorted out.
 
^^^^ I'm (hopefull) to loose weight in other places on the car and gain body rigidity with the roll bar. Along with better weight transfer to gain better 60ft times accompanied with quicker shifts from the v gate. Sounds good on paper ? LOL
 
A McCloud sof loc clutch is what you need, the violent grap of the clutch is what breaks things, and will continue to break things. They are adjustable to cushion the "hit", because either the tires or clutch have to have some give, otherwise things break.
 
replicaracer43 said:
A McCloud sof loc clutch is what you need, the violent grap of the clutch is what breaks things, and will continue to break things. They are adjustable to cushion the "hit", because either the tires or clutch have to have some give, otherwise things break.
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I was hoping the combination of a low set 2 step and maybe some more tire pressure ?
Please don't tell me a $450 clutch ! I'm $375 into the one I just put in. Lol
I hear ya, that heavy shock has to go.
 
soft loc is more than $450. your best and cheapest route is a mcloed B&B/long pressure plate with a series 300 disc at 2200 # base. soft loc is about $1600. from summit. its a very good piece, well worth it. we run one in a 340 duster.
 
perfacar said:
soft loc is more than $450. your best and cheapest route is a mcloed B&B/long pressure plate with a series 300 disc at 2200 # base. soft loc is about $1600. from summit. its a very good piece, well worth it. we run one in a 340 duster.
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$1600 is like my total budget for the winter. Roll bar, new shocks, new rear springs, new 2 step, and the contingencies(and I still need to fix the gearbox !!). Last winter I spent much more than I intended on the motor (no regrets of course) but this winter I'd like to keep a closer eye on the budget.
thank you for the experienced advice. I'm under no dilution that drag racing
cost $$, I just got to put a cap on some things.
 
That is EXACTLY why everyone is suggesting you put a auto in there. You WONT keep the drivetrain together using what you have, your just gonna keep breaking parts until you wake up one day and realize you spent more breaking stock parts than it would have cost to buy good stuff ONE time! I understand your enthusiasm though, just look at the big picture and do it right the first time. Love your car and what your doing, just offering one guys opinion....
 
I hear ya, and I appreciate your kind words. I'm just having so much fun with the 4 speed. Fun is much more important than winning or fixing with this car. It's only got to make it two more seasons with only six official races per season. Then it will be my son's problem - lol (he dislikes automatic's more than me)
I'll build a mild 360 - 904 - 8 3/4 in two years for my wife's 66 barracuda and that can be a nice dependable bracket car. As for now I have to send for a manual and crack this transmission open and see what the problem is?
 
Weight transfer (to the rear) and everything that will improve 60 ft times will only make things the same or worse; you can only improve 60' times with more torque through the drivetrain...... cue the "Twilight Zone" theme...

Find out how much the present rebuild will cost so you can see what the other options' real value is. If you spend $500 every other event, then $1600 will be cheap. It is not 'putting a cap on expenses' by repeating the combo that you just broke; with the ACT clutch (which I have used on a turbo rally car..... very good item), and dumping the clutch, it's gonna break again very quickly.

You're simply pushing to the edge of the strength of the trannie parts at this point; no one would expect it to last any better next time unless something is changed. All you can do if you repair it as-is is to stop dumping the clutch, start using some technique to slip it at launch and perhaps launch at lower RPM to keep a bit off the torque curve at first, or reduce tire grip to slip it there, and let the 60' times be what they are.
 
I would definitely go 3 on the tree..... Oh, yeah! nothing like racing a 3 on the tree... :D
 
j par said:
I hear ya, and I appreciate your kind words. I'm just having so much fun with the 4 speed. Fun is much more important than winning or fixing with this car. It's only got to make it two more seasons with only six official races per season. Then it will be my son's problem - lol (he dislikes automatic's more than me)
I'll build a mild 360 - 904 - 8 3/4 in two years for my wife's 66 barracuda and that can be a nice dependable bracket car. As for now I have to send for a manual and crack this transmission open and see what the problem is?
Click to expand...

Nice discussion on clutches on this thread, more than halfway down.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=327023
 
:burnout: thumbs up on the four speed. I am also the only stick car at my local track and nothing is better than beating an auto. I started with a centre force dual friction clutch stock 833 with a v-gate shifter and the 2 step set at 5000rpm. I ran that combo for four years making 250-300passes a year only breaking the driveshaft yoke and one axle. I upgraded to a Dana 60 and chromoly driveshaft with 1350 joints and never looked back. Now I've changed to a McLeod soft loc and a jerico and enjoying every pass. Check out www.umtrnorth.com,it's a stick car only web site with tones of info.........shift on buddy
 
wesgriffiths said:
:burnout: thumbs up on the four speed. I am also the only stick car at my local track and nothing is better than beating an auto. I started with a centre force dual friction clutch stock 833 with a v-gate shifter and the 2 step set at 5000rpm. I ran that combo for four years making 250-300passes a year only breaking the driveshaft yoke and one axle. I upgraded to a Dana 60 and chromoly driveshaft with 1350 joints and never looked back. Now I've changed to a McLeod soft loc and a jerico and enjoying every pass. Check out www.umtrnorth.com,it's a stick car only web site with tones of info.........shift on buddy
Click to expand...

Thank you for the words of encouragement !! :cheers:
I'm going to try and open er up tomorrow morning and see what I can see .....
 
^^^ ? The car wouldn't move a inch in first or second, but reversed off the track. Of course the car is on jack stands and it seems to be working fine. I'm still not doubting your suspicions totally, but also given the history that it was just rebuilt completely with all new internal parts Gears, spool, bearings, 489 case, and setup by the best in town. Either way the tranny has to be looked through and rebuilt over this winter. I bought it over a year and a half ago and have done nothing but abused it and it's the only part of the drive train that I have not replace or rebuilt or upgraded. I'll have the rear end out and off this winter putting new springs and shocks at any rate so if the tranny turns out not to be the problem when I test drive it and if I hear anything or feel anything wrong I'll be able to take care of it at that point. Thank you again for your help.
 
Now I am starting to think it is the rear end as I talked to Brewers performance and they seem to think I would have had some real noticeable problems on the counter gears had I really lost first or second. And I had a buddy come over and listen to the rear end and he seemed to think it was making far too much noise so who knows at this point. Its going to be a couple more weeks before I can get deep into the car. But again I did have to at the very least replace the front input bearing in the transmission.
 
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