And yall are just lettin that thing sit? Are yall mentally ill?????
400/450 stroker....Cheap parts, lotta work.
- Thread starter IQ52
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And yall are just lettin that thing sit? Are yall mentally ill?????
Rob that engine stand has two 5" diameter ball bearings that the engine rotates on. I took the pictures after rotating the block so's I could stand up an' shoot them.
All is fine with that stand unless a customer's 11 year old son comes in and hits the rotation release with a Power Smoke diesel on the stand. If I had not seen him go for the release we'da had a 7.5 on the Richter Scale right there in the engine room. He actually released it and I caught it before it rolled over.
The wagon will be the daughter-in-law's winter rig here in Idaho after it gets the electric front seat, the 383 and the fuel injection.
Oh yeah, there is also the 4x4 Chrysler New Yorker sitting around here somewhere.
Sounds like ur a pretty. Yay man. Kim
Good lord. That wouldda been a real problem. DO you have pictures of that stand? I'd like to see that.
That looks really heavy duty.
Ya think?
Did some rummaging around in some old piles of parts and came up with an oil pan, pick up and windage tray. Cleaned them all up and bagged them in plastic trash bags for when we assemble the engine.
Then in a drawer in a darkened corner I found two of these. I consider them to be the best intermediate shafts for flat tappet cams in big block Chryslers
Then in a drawer in a darkened corner I found two of these. I consider them to be the best intermediate shafts for flat tappet cams in big block Chryslers
Here is the tool to remove the intermediate shaft bushing.
Bushing removed and still attached to the tool.
Bushing installation tool............
Tool is position to install bushing. Lightly tap the top of the tool with a hammer until you feel the bushing seat against the block. Don't hammer too hard after the bushing seats against the block or you will mushroom the bushing. As you drive the bushing in, there always seems to be some brass scrape off under the bushing flange. I stop about 1/16" before the bushing seats and use some air to blow away the loose brass before finishing seating the bushing. After seating, tightening the large nut on the tool draws the tool out of the bushing and burnishes the bushing to size. Then briefly I install a pump and drop the intermediate shaft into the block and make sure intermediate shaft turns freely.
Bushing removed and still attached to the tool.
Bushing installation tool............
Tool is position to install bushing. Lightly tap the top of the tool with a hammer until you feel the bushing seat against the block. Don't hammer too hard after the bushing seats against the block or you will mushroom the bushing. As you drive the bushing in, there always seems to be some brass scrape off under the bushing flange. I stop about 1/16" before the bushing seats and use some air to blow away the loose brass before finishing seating the bushing. After seating, tightening the large nut on the tool draws the tool out of the bushing and burnishes the bushing to size. Then briefly I install a pump and drop the intermediate shaft into the block and make sure intermediate shaft turns freely.
Going through my oil pumps I found three new Melling HV pumps and this used one. This one was used on a 500 stroker we had on the dyno that was running really low on oil pressure. We replaced this pump with a new one and still had low pressure. It turned out that the line boring job on the block was so poorly done that the main caps were spreading and giving us large main bearing clearances. Fortunately just using a larger bevel on the edges of the main caps where they seated against the block register corners cured the problem. Well, that and line boring it a third time.
So now we have this used pump that we had already ported (yes ported) that we'll use in this build. We also use a ball burr to remove the edge of that sharp turn in the block that comes from the oil pick up.
Cleaned, lubed, re-assembled, and sealed in a bag to await it's installation.
So now we have this used pump that we had already ported (yes ported) that we'll use in this build. We also use a ball burr to remove the edge of that sharp turn in the block that comes from the oil pick up.
Cleaned, lubed, re-assembled, and sealed in a bag to await it's installation.
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Tagged and bagged.
It’s great that u guys have so many good parts just laying around. Kim
This engine is for us personally not a customer. We have this one and three others on tap that will be just for us.
PRH
Well-Known Member
I’ve never seen the bushing tools before.
That is for the tutorial
That is for the tutorial
replicaracer43
Grumpy Old Man
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Very cool thread, thanks for posting!
As we plan to use a solid flat tappet cam I must choose something inexpensive off the shelf around here to use for rocker arms. Decisions decisions..........Crane Gold Race, 440 Source, or these big block rockers from the late 50's or early 60's.
Looks like the Crane Golds will be ur best bet. Kim
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Who converted those OEM rocker arms? Too cool!
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Yep. The Crane Golds are pretty much fool proof. I do like the concept of the OE rockers with adjusters in them. But that is still a stock rocker.
Boy I sure don't know. It is rumored several sets were made for some factory sponsored teams around 1960. Norm Thatcher was sponsored by the factory for land speed record attempts at Bonneville and my Dad was on the crew. I suspicion he picked them up around that time. Years back I saw a picture in an old magazine of a dragster that had a set in it.
pishta
I know I'm right....
Sounds like my friends 451 build. Stock 400 with its rods and a turned down 440 crank throw with KB215's. Cnc ported iron heads with big valves, crane golds, 383 strip dominator intake and a big 850 DP with a crane .650 lift cam. Ran Fn great and was power galore.
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