400 low buck dont give a

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I'm not saying you're on your own, but I can't really say I've seen anything in the previous posts regarding the actual chamber volume in ccs, or the volume of what head gasket you want. If you post some solid numbers, CR is much easier to estimate. If I missed them somewhere in the text, I apologize...That being said, if you figure these numbers:

4.342" bore (stock)
3.375" stroke
.020" gasket
4.38" gasket bore diameter
.042" deck clearance
.25" to first ring
.004" bore clearance
85cc combustion chambers...

you get 9.1:1 CR...with 9:1, you can run more duration and not wreck your cylinder pressure and still have a good solid powerband. Now, granted I'm used to building small blocks < 3.5" stroke, and I'll probably need a flame suit here, but I was always under the impression when you start going above 225* @ 050" or 270-275* total duration with less than about 9.5:1, you lose a lot of cylinder pressure which translates to an engine that really doesn't wake up until nearly 3,000...a stall will help mitigate this issue, but it really won't be running up to potential if you bleed off all your cylinder pressure on the low end. So, cam choice is-as always-of paramount importance to find one that meets your expectation (within reason). I think there was someone on here that mentioned one of the Lunati Voodoo grinds-I'm on board with that suggestion...or the COMP XE cams...they make the most of the duration and lift profiles without tearing up lifters or lobes and they're not terribly expensive. I'd venture something around the 272-278 total duration would run great, sound good, and wouldn't need a huge stall or tons of rear gear to be a super fun daily driver.

Then again, my opinion is just like many others...it plus $1.59 will get you a cup of coffee at 7-11
 
Actually TX,makes sense.Had a 9.6 to 1 396 Chebby.Had a 238/248@ 050 hydraulic flat rapper.Even tuned,was doodoo to rune and drive.Decided on a quick action solid,widened the l/c from 107 to 112.advertised was 274/288 ,compared to 296/306 on the prior grind.Didn't lose anything up top,gained everywhere else.
 
well got it all back apart ..its clean and ready to start the rebuild... i will pick up some mains this week, and may get the cam bearings all dep. on how much they all cost local.. not in a big rush but if i can get it all cheap from 1 place thats the way i will get it... i found some mains on ebay but no rods or cam...gonna price things and see if i may just be cheaper to ship..lol low buck build....i know the gaskets run about 60.00 bucks,50.00 for mains,60.00 rods, and 25.00 cam bearing... need new freeze plugs, cam shaft i am thinking really hard on and my just end up with something a little smaller then the 504/528 hyd. but havent made my mind up as of now... got to many things that i am doing right now.. working on my other duster and this motor , but we will see.. thanks all for the help and info on this build....oh gotta pick up some more paint for the block as well...:D
 
Cam Style
Hydraulic flat tappetBasic Operating RPM Range
1,800-5,500Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift
216Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift
226Duration at 050 inch Lift
216 int./226 exh.Advertised Intake Duration
278Advertised Exhaust Duration
288Advertised Duration
278 int./288 exh.Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio
0.455 in.Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio
0.470 in.Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio
0.455 int./0.470 exh.Lobe Separation (degrees)
112Camshaft Gear Attachment



what do you guys think of this cam???? or would you just stick to the bigger 504/528 cam????either 1 is pretty cheap..older grinds i think
 
As long as you're not expecting it to be a 6k screamer, it'll probably run fine...that almost looks like an RV type cam. With the 112 lsa, it should have a good idle and good low speed manners. Whatever cam you choose, make sure you degree it in...

Is there any other grind available to you with a little shorter total duration and some more at 050?
 
I had an identical motor to what your proposing in my 68 Road Runner with a 727 and a 3.55 rear. The short block was an NOS crate motor from Mopar and I put refreshed unported 906s on it with a TM6 and a 750 DP. It had a 2200 stall and the car was fully restored on BFG radial T/As. It ran a best of 12.56 at 107. It had 7.9 to 1 compression and a 509 cam. Everyone told me it would be a pig and oddly enough it would barely spin the tires but it hooked and booked. So if a mid 12 second car is a pig then I guess it was a pig. lol.
 
I ran that same Crane .528 cam in a '76 440 with no piston to valve issues. Those are low static too. You should have an airport in there for room. And you'll have to rev it, but you already knew that...lol.
 
thanks guys .. the wide lobe sep. i am looking at are to help with the compr. some are am i thinking about it the wrong way.. lobe sep. on 112 but installed at about 106:smile: i would think it would work better then a 106 installed at 106 but i could be wrong..the 528 crane cam i really like and may just go ahead and get it.. the motor will have the stock rockers for now as i just cant see spending 200.00 or more for rockers on a basic build like this,also would like to add a windage tray just because, the heads are ported 906 with 2.08/1.74 in think the ex. size is right, tm6 intake and 750 dlb pumper carb:D:D i have 4.56 gears but plan to get some 4.30 as i have always like them as a all around gear..cam will be degree in.. headers 727 with a small verta 2000/3500 with 27.5/10.5 qtp tires in my 70 duster about 3200lbs.. should run in the high 7's in the 1/8th mile then a touch of nos about 100 shot... what rings should i pick up moly or just a reg. set?????:read: thanks mike
 
You're confusing lobe separation with intake centerline. Intake centerline can be moved when you degree the cam...lobe separation is ground into the cam, therefore cannot be changed. That being said, if you advance it 4* (many if not most aftermarket flat tappet cams are ground on a 110 centerline), it will assist with the low end, but will take away a little on the top end.
 
Moly rings will seat faster if the bores are prepped properly for them. That means professionally honed. If you're just breaking the glaze or using a hand-hone then plain rings will work fine, just allow for seating time.
 
txstang84 said:
You're confusing lobe separation with intake centerline. Intake centerline can be moved when you degree the cam...lobe separation is ground into the cam, therefore cannot be changed. That being said, if you advance it 4* (many if not most aftermarket flat tappet cams are ground on a 110 centerline), it will assist with the low end, but will take away a little on the top end.
Click to expand...


you my friend are right.:prayer::prayer:. i was typing and thinking at the same damn time.:banghead::banghead:.i know better then that:Dlol but the cam is cut on a 112 centerline.:glasses7:. and will move it (install) to about 106 somewhere in that area...:smile:
 
moper said:
Moly rings will seat faster if the bores are prepped properly for them. That means professionally honed. If you're just breaking the glaze or using a hand-hone then plain rings will work fine, just allow for seating time.
Click to expand...


thanks moper thats what i was thinking as well but didnt know for sure about it..it will be honed here at home no machine shop on this baby...just a basic junk parts motor...lol :D:D:D
 
new mains on the way....:D:D:D:Danybody know where to get some cheap 20 under rod bearings....:D:D:Dshopping on a budget:prayer::prayer::prayer::prayer:also i got to pick up some cam, and freeze plugs ,and gaskets...:cheers::cheers::cheers:
 
who?? i looked maybe i just missed the post are something..
 
thanks oldkimmer they are marked sold...damn
 
well parts are on the way..
new mains
crane cam 504/528
intake tm6
and windage tray

got to pick up the rod and rings
gaskets as well and then the build will start...


so now lets play the how much power and what will it run game..
400 stock stroke and bore:eek:ops:
factory flat top pistons no valve rel. 42th. in the hole:prayer:
906 heads with some port work:supz:
tm6 intake with 750 bg carb:glasses7:
187 oil pan and pick up
stock water pump housing and new pump
new timing chain
factory dist. may lock it out
headers in to 3" flowmaster mufflers
727 trans with about 2500/3000 stall
8 3/4 with 4.56 for now until i get some 4.30:burnout:
27.5/10.5 qtp street tire and 28/10.5 slick for tnt lol:violent1:
70 duster all steel:axe:

can i get this thing in the 7's in the 1/8 mile??????????:D:D:D:D:D:D:D

also got my digital calipers back and will take notes on this motor as i go...and bob is going to help me with some oil mods.. thanks bob
 
Well,the compression is the issue. I'd buy some hyper pistons to get it up to 9.5 or 10:1. You really need to address that issue or the motor wont run worth beans. You could still do a shade tree build on it despite investing in pistons by reusing all the stock rods/crank and heads etc. Really what seems to add big $$ to a motor is machine work and new aftermarket parts.

Rebuild the heads yourself by using some seat grinding stones,and sleeving the valve guides. Then hand lap the valves in.
 
i really dont think i will have a big problem with the comp. .. when i measured the piston in the hole it is only about 42th in the hole.. i posted a pic of it above... should be around 9.1 at lease i think...tomm. if i get the time i will go out to the shop and measure the deck,rods,piston height and see what i can come up with...:D

now it it runs 7.55 i will be so pleased lol... thats about all i want out:prayer::prayer::prayer: of the motor for now lol
 
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